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Pacific coast 620
Joined: 25 Feb 2007
Posts: 97
Location: San diegoCa.
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 Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:50 pm Post subject: HEI wiring pics w/ writeup |
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Ok recently with help from a few Datsun friends I now have my electronic dist. & HEI module hooked up & the 620 is running great now. My truck is a 74 & has a Z 18 motor which originally came with points. I thought it would be good to post pics of the wiring & the writeup a friend sent me. Without my friends help it wouldnt have gotten done so soon so a big thanks to those guys. The dist. came out of a 76 610 w/ L 20 motor....
the letters on the HEI L to R are...W G B C
this is the HEI i went with...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=194&ptset=A
I plan on moving the HEI & using a small piece of alluminum under it to act as a "heat sink". The HEI's tend to get hot & that's not good for them.Also make sure the HEI is grounded or it will malfunction.
> Wiring for the HEI unit.
>
> W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
> G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
> C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
> B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.
>
>
> Okay...I'll add this to it........
>
> You will need a new wire from the RED wire on the dist to the W on the HEI
> unit.
> You will need a new wire from the GREEN wire on the dist to the G on the
> HEI unit
> These two wires are what "senses" the tiny voltage spike that will be sent
> from the pickup in the dist.
>
> You will need a new wire from the (+) of the coil to the B on the HEI
> unit. This provides the power to the HEI unit. It's electronics needs to
> get power from somewhere. You will "add" this wire to the existing wires
> on that terminal of the coil. You will have wires on there from the
> ballast resistor, the "start/crank"(full 12v) wire from the ign switch. Do
> not remove the ballast resistor unless you have a coil that is rated for a
> constant 12v. If you remove the ballast, you can simply connect the two
> wires from the resistor together. You may have only one wire at each end
> of the resistor and then you have a 2nd wire on the (+) term of the coil.
> The second wire is the "start/crank" wire from the ign switch. You should
> be able to see which wire runs from the resistor to the coil. If not, the
> black/white is from the resistor and the red is from the ign sw. If you
> simply take the resistor out without connecting to the two wires together,
> your engine will only fire when the key is in the crank position and will
> die when you quit cranking. If you remove the "start/crank" wire, you
> will still get volts to the coil through the resistor in the crank
> position(I double checked that on the '74 620 w/man trans wiring), but the
> starter pulls a lot of amps and you may not get enough power to the coil
> to get a good enough spark to start the eng.
>
> The wire from the (-) term of the coil can be the old one running to the
> dist, but I'd just run new and disconnect the old one. You may have two
> wires on that term...one will be the tach if you have one. This wire runs
> to the C on the HEI unit and turns the coil on and off like the points
> did.
>
> The HEI unit grounds itself through the metal plate on it's backside and
> the collets in the mounting screw holes. You want to make sure you mount
> the unit to a piece of aluminum with a small amount of heat sink compound
> for heat transfer. Then mount the alum bracket to a good chassis ground.
> I would try to tuck it up, more out of the way so that water and debris
> flying up don't hit it. It was designed to be inside the GM distributor.
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64 L 320 - 72 510 wagon - 74 PL 620 - 94 D 21 [Hardbody]
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810-again
Joined: 09 Feb 2007
Posts: 308
Location: San Bernardino, Ca.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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I had that distributor in my 510 before I changed to the 79 620 'one wire' type. I mounted the HEI unit on the radiator support behind the grille. It stayed cool there and I never had any problems with it.
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1979 Datsun 2dr.-Sold 6/24/2009
1964 Datsun L320-Sold 6/3/2009
1978 Datsun 280Z-Sold 5/28/2009 |
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ben
Moderator
Joined: 18 Jan 2007
Posts: 5686
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Pacific coast 620,
Thanks for the great writeup! I'm sure this will come in handy for people. 
To everyone out there, more awesome tech tips like this one, please! |
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Pacific coast 620
Joined: 25 Feb 2007
Posts: 97
Location: San diegoCa.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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Takin this mod to the top.
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64 L 320 - 72 510 wagon - 74 PL 620 - 94 D 21 [Hardbody]
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datsunfreak
Rogue Moderator
Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 6426
Location: Fort Worth, TX, USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:35 am Post subject: |
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| ben wrote: | Hey Pacific coast 620,
Thanks for the great writeup! I'm sure this will come in handy for people. |
Heck, I'm doing it this weekend! 
Needed an EI dizzy for my new 510 and the only one I have is missing the block box, so I'll fire it up with one of these. 
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| kev wrote: | | 9 out of 10 punched nuns agree |
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edz280zx
Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 385
Location: S.W. Missouri
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Pacific coast 620
Joined: 25 Feb 2007
Posts: 97
Location: San diegoCa.
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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| edz280zx wrote: | | Sticky this?? |
I agree can this be a sticky ?? 
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64 L 320 - 72 510 wagon - 74 PL 620 - 94 D 21 [Hardbody]
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bonvo
Joined: 31 Jan 2009
Posts: 236
Location: vacaville ca
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:47 am Post subject: |
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what year make and model is that ignition module from?
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| TacoDelRio wrote: | | Sometimes it starts after I've lost my mind battling with it. It seems to feed on sadness... |
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arsonist63086
Joined: 01 Aug 2009
Posts: 232
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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has anybody tryed to do it with msd's 4 wier hei. it should be the same wire up but the msd has better duel and a built in rev limitter...
link to the MSD 4pin module:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-83645/ |
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datsunfreak
Rogue Moderator
Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 6426
Location: Fort Worth, TX, USA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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| bonvo wrote: | | what year make and model is that ignition module from? |
I don't recall the exact application, but the part number is in here:
| Quote: | INTRODUCTION
The installation of a ‘79-80 “Black Box” distributor is by far one of the most common methods of upgrading to a breakerless ignition on your 510. The nickname “Black Box” refers to the small, black ignition module that is mounted directly on the distributor. Unfortunately, because of their popularity, age, and limited years of production, these distributors can be difficult to find in some parts of the country. If you do find one, it is possible that someone has already removed the ignition module. It seems that enthusiasts who use these distributors like to grab extra modules when they find them. The reason? The retail price for the module is $308 at the Nissan dealer and $244 at my local NAPA. Neither store carries the module in stock. It is not a failure-prone part, but keep in mind that used modules are nearly twenty years old and are mounted in a location that exposes them to a fair amount of heat. A better alternative to the factory module is the GM HEI ignition module. You’ll always find them in stock and the price ranges from $15 for a “house brand” to $30 for a premium label such as Standard. The real beauty of the HEI module is that it allows you to use any Datsun electronic distributor from a four cylinder L-series engines.
THE PARTS LIST
The Distributor. You can use the “Black Box” distributor, but you will have to fabricate a plate to block off the hole where the factory module is mounted. The distributors that used a remote module (‘76-78) are preferable for this reason and much more common. Check the shaft of the distributor for excessive play. Be sure to grab the distributor pedestal that mounts between the distributor and timing cover.
The Coil. Be sure to get he get the coil from the donor car.. The stock 510 coil will not work. High performance aftermarket coils such as the MSD Blaster 2 can also be used. Bypass the resistor if it is still in place.
The Module. If it fits your budget, opt for the premium module. They are made with better materials and should last longer than the cheap variety. The part number for the Standard Ignition part is LX-301.
A heat sink. A small rectangle of aluminum (approx. 2”x3”x1/8th) is all you’ll need. These modules generate a lot of heat, so consider this part necessary.
INSTALLATION
Drill two holes in your heat sink to match the mounting holes on the HEI module. Mount the module / heat sink combo near the coil. The module should come with a package of silicone compound. Be sure to use it and be generous in it’s application. This stuff helps transfer heat and protects the module from corrosion. Before removing your old distributor, set the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 terminal of the distributor cap. Install the new distributor and base.
Note: If you find that the rotor is 180 degrees off, you will have to re-orient the upper shaft. Remove the pickup coil, reluctor and the plate they mount on. This will expose the advance weights. This is a two-piece shaft, so just remove the screw in the center of the top of the shaft and move the upper shaft 180 degrees. The other option is to drop the oil pump, spin the distributor/oil-pump drive spindle 180 degrees and reinstall it.
Install the coil from the donor car. Now connect the HEI module to the coil and distributor. The HEI module has four connecting points.
W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.
The red wire coming from the distributor is positive. If you find that your distributor has two green wires, you'll have to try running the car with the wires connected both ways to determine which combination is correct. If your first guess is wrong, the car will start, but it won’t run properly.
Install your cap, rotor and wires and you’re done. Enjoy the reliability and confidence in knowing that this module can be replaced at ANY auto parts store in the country.
Copyright (c)1999 The Dime, Quarterly |
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| kev wrote: | | 9 out of 10 punched nuns agree |
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