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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:19 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hey Gypsy,

Not sure if your aware of this, but theres 3 x RX3/808's @ andys autos in cambelfield. The coupe is fair-fucked and their all pretty stripped, but theres a few bits and pieces on the sedans like the rear quarters.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:18 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
Thanks for tip... will check them out but pretty much have everything I need at last !


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:23 pm
Posts: 26
Location: Okinawa Japan
Truely inspiring work!!!

I enjoyed every page of this thread!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 4:58 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 783
Location: Melbourne, Australia
F3ared wrote:
Hey Gypsy,

Not sure if your aware of this, but theres 3 x RX3/808's @ andys autos in cambelfield. The coupe is fair-fucked and their all pretty stripped, but theres a few bits and pieces on the sedans like the rear quarters.


yeah but the cocklords that run Andy's now want fricken gold for everything.

ps. awesome write up Gypsy. :tu:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:06 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
Another Update....

A little bit of everything...

Lining things up for weld bead and repairing rust on the outer skin
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Marking the patch and clamping in place.
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Almost finished the inner panel and test fitting skin with inner panel.
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Finishing off the lower section of the inner panel and pic 2 finally done... yay 8) Needs to be trimmed along red line.
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Pic 1, nice fit, Pic 2 bottom edge trimmed... still needs to be primed.
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Pic 1, while panel was fitted traced around the cut line so I know how much I have to work with. Pic 2, marked out the size of the patch, there is over lap between the patrch and car skin that will be trimmed.
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Patch trimmed and ends are being straightened over a dolly. The patch will be trimmed down further and cut when fitted to car.
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Patch skin adjusted and then screwed to car to keep everything 100% still while cutting. I will cut through both the car quarter skin and patch skin where they overlap so that I have a perfect matching constant edge between both panels for welding. This will make welding a joy and will give a really good finish. This will leave me with a perfect welding gap of around 0.6mm right across the cut.
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Last of the quarter sking for now, I've started cutting through both panels. You can see the section inside the boot that will eventually be discarded. Once cutting is complete I will blast the lower edge outer skin where there was surface rust, strip it and then give it a good coat of water prrof primer before I start welding.
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I fabricated the following that holds the quarter window sealing rubber. This will all sit under the stainless brightwork. Rx3 coupes suffer from water collecting in this area. I could leave it because no one will see it, but it will bug me until fixed right. You can see in Pic 2 the section that I chopped out.
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Test fitting the OEM seal, will be primed then fitted. Pic 2, stuffing around with the nosecone !
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Cleaning up the remainder of the boot tar that someone carelessly brushed everywhere. Back breaking work but got it done.
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More boot shots, cleaned up with stripper, blasting and thinners... UHH !
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All done and treated with deoxidine... will tidy up bits and pieces with the sander but done.
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Moving to the right rear quarter skin next... looked OK and more than pass-able but my better judgement and destructive mood told me to start a chopping ! Couldn't help myself but to remove a good looking patch.
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What a perfect way to remove the blast grit... chop up your car !
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Whats the point of a good patch if you dont address the underside ? Better than the opposite side, wont take much to clean this up, will also let me recreate the lines on the right side between rear quarter skin and beaver panel. More to follow on this one as well....
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Got sick of the shell so thought would finish off right door + tryiing to keep noise down. Left door was finished some time ago and is ready for primer so got started on right door. All the bolt on panels going on this car are rust free with no patches. Pic 1, looks like a door... Pic 2 started sanding, filing and tapping the lower part of the door.
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Took some care and a couple of hours and metal finished the lower section. Will need nothing more that high fill on this part. I had to file it regardless due to some twit stripping the door with 1 grit paper and excessively marking the panel. Its pretty good now, lower section at least. Pic 2, along way to go with the upper part of the skin, it seems I can find straight rusty panels or damaged rust free panels but not straight and rust free :( None the less, the doors that came with the car are good rust free and repairable with some love.
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As you can see I've been a busy boy, Ive placed another order of Rx3 bits with Mazda that are coming Ex Japan, started reco'ing front struts/ brakes and preping some stuff to fit engine and box. The shells repairs are starting to come to an end 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:40 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Senasational work as always 8) Progressing nicely Gypsy!!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Awesome work.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:36 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
Getting a little jealous seeing the quality of some newer restos... anyway More updates 8)

More work to the rear left quarter panel, always alot more work and time required than initially thought ! Pic 1, finished cutting through both skins. Pic 2, skin is trimmed and is now being prepared for fitment. Here I've used stripper to remove the original paint.
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Next photos... panel cleaned up with thinner then treated with deoxidine to kill off any remaining rust. Pic 2, the panel was then blasted clean. I thought it was all finished but blasting revealed 3 more tiny pin holes where there was pitting in the metal. These were welded up easily enough, Ive now got all the rust 8)
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Next I prep the underside, strip, deoxidine, thinner with scotchbrite and finally coated in white primer as this will may be seen through the boot.
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Pic 1, another photo of the same thing. As an extra precaution the welds were coated in rubber seam sealer to ensure moisture is kept out. Pic 2, the inside of the skin is primed.
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You can see the seam sealler in these 2 photos, call it overkill but I think its better than having rust return. In pic 2 Ive applied a thick coat of seam sealer around the arch to stop the quarter skin rubbing against the inner structure and causing more rust... well this is how the factory did it in these areas. I've also cleaned up where the plug welds will go.
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Panel aligned and clamped into place for the welding job at hand.
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Started welding, a big, time consuming job. To put it into perspective I'll spend roughly 8 hours welding and panel beating the weld seam, cleaning the welds and straightening the surrounding area from both inside the boot and the exterior part of the panel. The time doesnt include, fixing the inner panels, blasting, stripping, treating and priming stages. Thats an additional 2 -> 3 days work !! Pic 2, you can see where the plug welds will go around the wheel arch. Sedans appear to have lots more welds in this area that coupes. In pic 2 you can see some of my custom fabrication work... very happy with the result (surrounding wing area where you see 2 holes)
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Weld shots from inside the boot, I hope to dress these so you cant see them from inside the boot. Time will tell but the welds are pretty nice and clean. There is one area that needs a little pulling but as luck has it the area is right behind the lower part of the boot upright so couldnt get the timber block in there :evil: May need to use a stud gun instead... (welding is 70% done)... The inside of the quarter panel is looking super clean as well 8)
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Last quarter panel shot, the reason behind this repair was several aside from the obvious rust issue. For starters I wanted the factory rear reflector recess (see above pics) which are normally beated out because of accident damage. The other reason is that I wanted clean beaver to rear quarter lines. In the Pic below this will be achieved by welding in some fresh sheet metal and cutting the desired line. There are alot of 808's and Rx3's getting around without lines here because of cheap repairs where the 2 panels are either welded together or brushed with rust converter and then bogged over. Interestingly enough the quarter skin I used off a sedan never had side badges so I will need to mark out and drill the appropriate holes. Welding the skin isnt difficult just time consuming. The difficult part was fixing the inner panels. I tried unsuccessfully to obtain either good used or preferably new replacements. Its all too late to change anything now as its mostly done. The result should be good and will need to be partially repeated on the opposite side (RHS is alot cleaner).
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Some miscellaneous shots... Contrary to what some of you may believe the quarter skin repair is not the biggest remaining repair. It is the rear end of the sill panel. Havent settled on how Im going to do it but Im hoping it'll come to me in my sleep before the time comes for me to carry out the repair. The quarter skin repairs are pretty straight forward in comparison. I feel lucky that I only have to do this on one side :roll: as the other side is 100% clean. The bottom of the pictured sill 100% clean believe it or not, only the side has rusted out due to filling up with rubbish and rusting out the sill and surrounding quarter skin due to poor design. (Very last of the rust that needs to be fixed)
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I also started to pull down one of the 10a's due to the container filling up with water ! Thankfully all is OK, the engine was seized but I managed to free it up and now freely turns over. There is compression in front chamber but rear rotor is carboned up with stuck seals. The inside condition is pretty good and will need very little to rebuild. it also looks like its been mildly ported.
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Thats it for the update !


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:47 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
More updates...

I finished off welding the LHS quarter panel repair as well as repairing the quarter window weather seal area which is something I started long ago. Over all the quarter repair is progressing really well. I've also worked out my plan of attack on repairing the rear LHS sill and quarter panel area. Shouldnt be too hard. The solution came to me in a dream :shock:

On to the pics..

Pic 1, after I finished welding there was only minor area that needed pushing out. This was done using a porta power, it took no more than 10 minutes to rectify. The weld line has been cleaned up from both inside and outside the boot ready for filling. Pic 2 I fabricated the top part which is part of the quarter panel (rear LHS quarter window area). The lower of the 2 parts was deemed usable, cleaned up and primed. I fabricated both parts for the opposite side. The shallow S bend is achieved by hitting the appropriate area over a solid piece of metal. The hammer blows stretch the metal and forms a curve. Pretty simple really... no more than 15 minutes is required.
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You've seen the following procedure several times in my thread. Plug welding... I have lots of practice and can do it with my eyes shut !
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Plug welding complete, turned out nice. Parts were then primed again and then dummy fitted for welding to the car. If your looking for an Rx3 coupe ensure you check out this area as they are known to rust here. Most people wont pickup on it because the panel is hidden by bright work and a rubber seal. If your looking at an old clapped out car its not uncommon for the parts to separate leaving nothing to hold the weather seal in place. When you see silicon glue used to hold bits on an old Mazda you can almost guarantee that its rust related.
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Welds are primed and the part is then clamped into place after cleaning the surrounding area. The area has been previously repaired with brazing rod and filler which looked messy and bugged me more than anything.
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Welding the parts together....
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Welding is done, turned out good. Will clean up the area in pic 2, brush some primer then coat with seam sealer.
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All that work and it wont be seen, the area is covered by a piece of stainless brightwork. Pic 2, measured and marked out holes for the my new Rx3 badge. It felt good mounting that badge even if it's only temporary.
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Some general shots, Im one happy camper ! Will need to strip the blue paint and eventually prep for primer. I was playing around with panel gaps over the weekend so mounted the repaired door to the car. There is dust everywhere, will need to vacuum and hose out the garage and clean out the car. I had a bit of a cleanup as well, threw out lots of metal off cuts that are no longer needed.
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It now looks like Im going to use my fabricated number plate holder to replace the wobbly one on the car. Removing the old one will also make repairing the lower beaver panel section that much easier. Try finding a new one of these at your local Mazda dealer !
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Well, before you know it the left quarter panel will be done leaving the beaver panel and the right quarter panel to finish off the shell. I'll be travelling to my secret parts stash shortly to get the wheel arch patch for the left quarter and ship a few other things so I can send them off to the mechanic.

Checklist to complete left quarter panel
1. repair inner sill using my fabricated sill panel
2. fabricate the lower section of the LHS 1/4 panel.. worked out and under control
3. Weld on the wheel arch patch
4. plug weld LHS quarter sking to wheel arch and rear inner quarter panel

More updates soon


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:50 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Holy smokes! :shock:

Love ya work as always. Was it unavoidable to cut the rear quarter right across the middle? Is it unusual for that area under the rear quarter window to be double skinned like that in other cars? (I would have thought the panel would just have a return there and the chrome strip and rubber strip would just clip on).

Also...what are these nifty things called that are holding the panels butted together?
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:02 pm 

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:50 am
Posts: 104
Location: Williston SC
Sheet metal butt welding clamps:

Harbor Freight, Eastwood and various other stores sell them

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PanelCla ... 0433261677

http://www.eastwood.com/metal-fabricati ... -of-4.html


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:30 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
Quote:
Love ya work as always. Was it unavoidable to cut the rear quarter right across the middle? Is it unusual for that area under the rear quarter window to be double skinned like that in other cars? (I would have thought the panel would just have a return there and the chrome strip and rubber strip would just clip on).

Thanks Kev, I couldnt have cut it much higher otherwise I'd run into other problems. For starters I'd have to cut out the fuel filler (may result is alignment issues with the fuel tank) and if I cut any higher at the rear of the car then I'd have problems with the tail light recess. From the outside of the car I've cut probably 75% up the top of the quarter panel. It would have been nice to cut higher to make it easier to hide the weld but I couldnt go much higher given that I've used a sedan quarter instead of a coupe quarter. Both sedan and coupe skins are identical where I cut. If you cut higher at the back near the tail lights then the skin wouldnt have matched as the sedans are completely different. This hole excercise to cut that high was so that I could have my factory reflector recesses back, I dont think anyone else would have bothered. Before you ask I used sedan quarters as they are easy to find, coupe quarter panels are challenging to find at the best of times let alone finding good ones. I have 2 good ones but I dont want to chop them up, they will be going on a 12a coupe that I have in mind. New coupe quarters come up occasionally but will set you back $1500 - 2000 each, thats $3000 - 4000 in 2 panels, then you need the matching inner quarters which are even harder to find. I've spent $400 to fix both sides which is a big difference ! Too many people over spend on old cars, I like to keep it real and affordable + Im having lots of fun. I should be able to hide the welds as they are pretty clean and flat, time will tell.

Also the panel is as you say it is, it is not double skinned. The quarter folds over and then there is a metal strip spot welded on the inside to hold the weather seal and chrome work in place. See the previous page for more photos. If you need more to clear things up let me know !




:shock: $119 for panel clamps :lol: , I paid roughly $2 each off ebay ! I ground down the plate that is wedged between the 2 panels to have a smaller welding gap as I think they're a little to thick standard for Japanese tin.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:02 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
:tu: Mega mega thumbs up. I think this build up should be on the main page.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:48 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
gypsy wrote:
Also the panel is as you say it is, it is not double skinned. The quarter folds over and then there is a metal strip spot welded on the inside to hold the weather seal and chrome work in place. See the previous page for more photos. If you need more to clear things up let me know !

Ah, gotcha.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:53 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
OK, I've stopped procrastinating and almost onto the home stretch with the shell work. There is one remaining semi major repair + handful of smaller easy jobs before I declare the shell rust free ! I recall some time ago stating that the shell was relatively free from corrosion but how wrong was I. Grey water proof putty goes along way in disguising problem areas. Anyway, Im pretty sure I've identified and addressing the remaining areas. Most of the panel work is complete as well, the only panels that need a bit of time to get them right is the nosecone and drivers door, all other panels need minor work to get them ready for primer.

Pic 1, where I left off last update. Before I do my filler work the panel still needs plug welding around the wheel arch as well as completing the sill repair. I have a bit of blasting to do on the opposite side so wont be welding around the wheel arch until that is done. Not welding the edges of the quarter at this stage makes it easier ridding the back end of blast grit. Pic 2, cut out the front of the sill.
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Pic 1, fibre glass around the flange. Pic 2, Ive removed the sill end cap by drilling the spot welds out.
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Pic 1, the inner sill/rocker panel is badly pitted to the point where Im not going to bother blasting it clean. Pic 2, the sill end cap isnt much better !
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Pic 1, you can see where the spot welds were removed to remove the end cap. Pic 2, Another Rx3 rust prone area. Mazda's solution was to place a drain hole on the rear with rubber flap and wasnt concerned with water collecting in between the skins which is inevitable and has no where to go. Someone has had a go repairing this with fibreglass, at least is wasnt going to rust again :lol:
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A couple of shots of the sill end cap. I tried getting a replacement from Mazda hoping a dealer would have one sitting on the for 30+ years, no luck. None available ex Japan either so its either the fabrication route or sourcing a used item. I cut up one of my coupe quarters that I have up in Sydney to repair the front of the quarter as well as the sill. Time will tell if the used parts are usable or rubbish.
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Marked out what was to be cut off. Above the line is 100% clean, below is junk ! Pic 2, saved me alot of trouble removing the fibre glass as well. Disgraceful, is a word that comes to mind :lol:
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Replacing inner section made up and welded onto clean metal. The repair addressed 2 problems... 1. rust 2. a damaged lower sill edge from not jacking the car correctly.
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The last of the inner sill/rocker repair for now. No more rust pits, holes or wavy bottom edge. This is a rear shot of the repair, still more to do. The sill end cap will be welded on to this area. I will remove a little more of the sill near the passenger door then blast back the remaining surface rust to white metal then prime the inside before fitting the outer sill/ rocker panel area. Repairs like this are always slow going especially when new parts arent available. You can spend alot of time stripping back old parts and sometimes its for nothing. I have it all planned out, nothing too hard.
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Next section is where blasting needs to occur to get a clean repair. Im always critical of people that repair cars with no rear quarter to beaver panel lines. The followings show why. BTW this side is pretty good overall. The previous repairer failed to address the minor rust on the inner quarter panel, I suppose out of site out of mind for most people. Filler and cardboard directly over rusted metal, a textbook Mazda Rx3 repair :lol:
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Its not even worth putting in the recycling bin :lol:
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Pic 1, area will be blasted, patched and primed. Looks alot worse than what it really is. Most of it is dirt. Pic 2, preparing the RHS skin repair.
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The replacement area is very clean with only a tiny bit of surface rust. Will be trimmed down and welded into place once the sill on the LHS is repaired. The inner quarter panel needs some minor adjustment for it to all go together nicely.
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There will be a few more updates completing the bodywork before the fun part of owning a project is over :(


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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 11:56 pm 
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Been a while since I chimed in but your work never ceases to amaze me. You'll have built a brand new car when this is done!

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 12:12 am 
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Your doing a real nice job overthere, but would'nt you made it yourself a lot easyer, when you had cut out the whole quarterpanels?
The inner quarterpanels and the inner sills would be much better accessible for repairs.

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PostPosted: Sat May 08, 2010 4:34 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 594
Location: Australia
Thanks Ben, should look good when all done.

Mazda 818, you ask some good questions. Here is a basic run down of the why bit !

The RHS is very good and no one would pull off that quarter panel. There is not much damage there, only rust at the bottom. The LHS could have been replaced in hindsight but raises additional problems around alignment of the panel. If this is wrong your door and front guard wont fit right. The way it has been cut gives no better access to the inner quarter than removing the entire panel (I only need access to small bottom part, upper part is perfect). To access the inner sill requires removing the entire outer sill which a very big job, bigger than anything else I have done ! People I have spoken too would only replace sections of the sill given that most of it is in good condition. But yes your right removing the LHS is a valid option, I had already invested alot of time straightening it and repairing a couple of spots which made me reluctant to undo my work.

By doing what your suggesting would mean first off, Mazda need to sell new panels. Every used quarter panel I have seen has the exact same problems so its a pointless exercise unless you can find new ones. Since Mazda havent sold them for 10+ years then you are at the mercy of private sellers. The panels you talk of are very rare for Rx3 coupes Last I checked people wanted $1500 - 2000 per panel. Thats around $4000 for 2 panels IF you manage to find them ! There is a person here that can hand craft them from flat steel but you are looking at approx $6000 per side. I have made a set of sill panels but would rather replace sections than the entire panel for reasons already mentioned. If you read my posts you'll realise that I had to use sedan parts and make modifications for them to fit, that will give you an idea how hard and expensive some coupe parts are to find. Generally speaking 90% of parts are easily obtainable. Building the car for me is about having fun, and keeping it affordable with a nice car as an end result. Im not chasing the best Rx3 title in the universe like others. Its too easy to over capitalise on things that you love doing !

Once this car is finished I would like to have a go at handcrafting some smaller panels then eventually larger ones. You can rest assured that there'll be another basket case after this one is completed :lol:

edit: Im after a new genuine LHS outer sill panel, let me know if you have one.


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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 2:52 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Location: Australia
Its been slow going at the moment, Ive been working on various parts but haven't completed anything significant as I've been busy with other things. Here is the latest to keep the momentum going. The last remaining big challenge for this project is to sort out the LHS sill and rear quarter panel... the rest of the car is straight forward.

I've spent the day working on the left side and in my opinion coupes are rust traps compared with their sedan counter parts. I see lots of problem areas in coupes which are not problem areas in sedans. For people restoring sedans you really have no excuse not to get things right. My own experience with my project raises several points in regards to people building rx3/808 coupes.

1. Some coupe parts are scarce... its near impossible to find new or good genuine sill panels and rear quarter inner skirt to make changing a rear quarter panel a breeze. Quarter panels are around but I cant justify spending 1500 - 2000 per side when I cant get the other parts I want.
2. I believe by now that a significant number of coupes suffer from rust in these areas which raises the question... if parts aren't available what the hell is everyone else doing.... from the 4 or so quarter panels I have I can answer that question... fibreglass and bog and arc welding :roll:
3. Because of all the work I've been doing Im of the opinion that the best cars around are the lucky ones that have survived unscathed for 35+ years without having had any of the integrated panels replaced.... very few cars fit this category...

Enough of my worthless opinions and on to the build.....

LHS sill repair which will be covered over several updates. Pic 1, a spare quarter panel I have that I'll be using to repair the sill. I havent exactly worked out how Im going to go about it yet.... I have several thoughts. Pic 2, I managed to find a good sill end cap on this quarter which will replace the rusty one from the car.... pretty amazing really if your saw the rest of the spare sill. Needs to be blasted clean but its rust free.
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Lots of bog and glass which I imagine is a standard level of repair given that it would be an expensive repair to have carried out properly. Pic 2, I want the rear part of the sill due to its unique shape which would be complex to fabricate.
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Lots of bog folks.... The sill section will be blasted clean.
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The critical sections I want are blasted clean. The part I really want is where the sill changes shape and sits under the quarter panel, the rest will be discarded. The part will be blasted to white metal when everything is finalised.
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Unpicking the outer quarter skins. There are 3 skins in parts which entrap water... rust is inevitable if your car sees lots of water.
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Cutting a little more of the sill from the car as I can feel scaly metal. The inner sill is clean. It baffles me why the opposite side is clean including surface rust. Lots of dirt and broken glass as you can see.
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Last of this for now.... Im thinking rather than use the fabricated sill section that I'll use a complete sedan sill and modify the rear of it with part of the blasted section. Alot of work to sort this out but should ensure that I wont have any problems during my lifetime at least.
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Here I decided to do something easier and less involved... repairing the drivers door from dents and creases. The passenger side was done some time ago.
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Pic 1, most of the damage is fixed now to weld up the non factory mirror holes. Pic 2.... Im happy with the result. The doors had no holes which made things easier.
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Pic 1, Stripping the shell. Pic 2, all done and treated with deoxidine until Im ready to prime both doors.
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Right quarter repair... this side is pretty rust free especially around the sill area. I have unpicked the remnants of the quarter to dummy fit the replacement skin.
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Pic 1, fit is really good. Pic 2, just like the opposite side the profile is a little different on sedans and the inner skirt will need adjusting. The skirts are no longer available BTW. I may have 2 good ones in storage but they will require lots of hours unpicking from the quarters. This method is alot easier and faster.
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Repairing some minor rust and modifying the profile to fit the new skin.
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Fabricating the new section so it all looks factory.
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Marking and cutting the new part to shape.
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Cleaning the inner quarter skirt (will be blasted)and bolting together a 5 speed gearbox shell to relocate the gearbox mounts for use with the 10a. Its common practice to bolt a modified gearbox cross member directly to the floor..... not for me though.
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More to follow on this when its finished...


The following will interest some of you. I roughly aligned the passenger door and sat a genuine Mazda guard to the car. The guard is not bolted but sits nicely in position. It wouldnt take to much to align the guard and door. I have others guards that have a similar fit.
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Pic 1, a bit had to tell due to the white epoxy primer but follow the top door line to the equivalent guard line... perfect match. Pic 2, a repro guard as you can see the line is all wrong. I had to bolt the guard down and wrestle with it to get a decent :roll: door gap. The top of the repro guard will need cutting and welding.
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But wait... that's not all ! For your money you also get an incorrect guard to door profile :roll: There's not much more Im going to say other that my curiosity was satisfied. Im not curious enough to buy a right repro guard though :lol: There are other problems but I wont go into them. Save your money and pay a good panel beater to repair your rusty guards. I think the the QA guys at the repro factory must have been high on maybe pot, cocaine, speed or probably all of the above that day :roll: FYI I gave a detailed report to the Vic supplier and got no reply. The guards are over priced for the quality of fit. The guard will make an expensive rust patch for one of my rusted genuine guards.
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As Mazda say

A part from Mazda, trust nothing else ..... what a fitting parts slogaan :)


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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Adelaide
As usual, truly inspiring work :D

Aren't some repro panels a joke!! I used some repro's to repair a CC lancer that I hit a kangaroo in....trying to get them to look right was a joke, the gaps were terrible and the body crease line was miles out!!

As you said, better to repair damaged originals. I have a rough pair of RX2 guards that I was originally going to chuck, but have stored them for safe keeping....

Keep up the great work!!


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