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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 6:42 pm 
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Location: Auckland
Spent a few hours tidying up the inside of the car, removing the 'not that old' sound deadening and foam stuff, so that the sandblaster can do its thing soon.
Gives us a chan ce to fill the multitudes of holes throught the firewall, tunnell, floors that have been made, and many not required.


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the next step for me is to get the engine and box out for a final fling at the engine bay, which requried some work, harness tabs, holes, weld splatter, its all there and needs to be sorted.


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The stock seat mounts fouled the proposed seating rails, mounts and seat itself, so have been drilled out, leaving a smooth floor on the drivers side.
Im still sitting too high, so along the outside chassis section, there is a 45 degree angled floor section that joins the floor to the inner sill. The outside mount fouls this, so by dropping the 45, we can gain 3cm maybe. Ill try that, and if its not enough, the whole floor drops under the seat, to gain the head room for me - 191cm, + helmet, which is hitting the cage & hoop.


The handbrake also requires re-positioning, since the seats are wider than usual. On top of the tunnell, mounted further rearward will do fine. Could go for a floor mounted by the pedals, but a quick acting, accessible handbrake is important.



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Bonnet catches are in, with mounts securely welded to the front cage bar. Catches are lockable, sit above bonnet just a touch, after a paint should blend in enough.


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Now here is something that could kill the project....
I know there is talk of recession, even more recently talk of 0.1% growth in the economy.
Im betting for great growth in my business, so In this majikal plan of growth and earnings, Ill need somewhere to throw a portion of this wedge.


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Dont stress, the car will continue as is, but with a small backroom project to gather necesary parts to make it happen later IF majikal plans come together.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 6:49 pm 
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Help out the slow ones among us, are you saying you might convert it to AWD at some point?!? :shock:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 7:05 pm 
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Location: Auckland
Argh sorry, typical me.

Yeah AWD, with all sensors attached as per ATESSA system, run through the Pi/Cosworth ECU. Rather a bit of tuning then!
Bit of work to do, reposition front diff, attach sump, make new crossmember and rear mounted PS rack, new front inner gaurds holding modified GTR/GTS4 front double wishbone suspension and uprights.
Gearbox/centre diff into tunnel will require some heavy beating to make fit. FAR from impossible. Idea would be to make it as I want it, rather than make the S30 fit the GTR drivetrain = front heavy bag of crap.

MAybe if things pan out. Ill keep collecting cheap R33/34 gtr parts and keep playing.

The only AWD S30 had followed the slap the GTR into a cut up S30, ok for drag, but shit for circuit/street, since weight is way too far forward.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:17 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
rb power awd would be nice like this v8 awd 260z for hill climbing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jCHGsfQlTQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQjXsvEhLyQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAW4oPQUzYs


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Location: Auckland
The next and last panelbeating stage is the small stuff.

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Engine & box out to tidy up the engine bay


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Help accepted from all arigato Miu

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Work completed to lower the seat & rails, have suitable clearance for head height/helmet.
The cage has a lot to answer for here.
Where the inner sill and floor pan meet there is a 45 degree section to meet each other.
This is made perpendicular, dropping the seat maybe an inch, all vital gains for my swede


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Issues still apparent,
- left elbow/funnybone rests on side intrusion bar of cage, this will become very annoying after a few metres drivin,
- suggest remove each side and notch, make a bend in the bar to clear elbows and reweld both sides of the car.
- Steering wheel too close to body, get a more narrow profile boss kit for steering wheel, easily done.

- handbrake needs to be relocated
- battery mounted low and rearward somewhere.


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While we complete the final tin work, Ill take the time to drag a GTR box/transfer case down and see if the transfercase will clear the seat mounts/rails.

Looks tight.

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Front glass work included making the nose section more rigid, keep some vague shape while at speed.




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Playing with front diff position at home, now suitable for current engine position in the zed.


BEFORE

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AFTER

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If I spread this lot around the bedroom, Id get the misses on board to complete the car....

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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Location: Auckland
So its another trip down to see the man John, and to run through what needs to be done.

Since Id rather have everything fitting as it should, he grabs the light covers back to fit them, make the holes etc.
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Same goes with the mirrors, they need a backing plate under the gaurd to ensure they dont disappear at speed. Ill email him some side profiles of some zg's so he can put them where they should, all looks while little chance of them being of much use...

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A battery should live some place at the rear end on the passenger side, mounted low. Ill bring the gas tank back down next weekend. Ill leave the XXXL battery box alone and place a smaller gel battery in there.

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The seat still doesnt fit as well as it could. I cant move to a smaller seat due to me body shape, so its further choppin required. The sill area gets a full length step down from last time, and completed on both sides of the chassis. Ill also remove the seat runner on the drivers side to gain an inch, and make the seat position somewhat unadjustable. The seat brakets so allow different positions, but not easily done while in traffic..

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Ill also make a right angle against the trans tunnel to gain a little more room, to also get the seat shoulder off the roll cage on the door side. There is a small indent to the tunnel at the rear of the seat mount, so cut it out!

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Bloody seats! Who choose such a small chassis>?

Handbrake issues, bought a GTR handbrake for a few bucks, seems like a suitable option. Will sit on top of the tunnel, but dropped into the tunnel a touch so it doesnt sit too proud.

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What is a half decent idea, is to see if a GTR box (R32) would fit into the chassis (if at any stage in the future I need my head read to progress with 4WD).

May as well do it now since its here.

Ya really feel this thing in the boot rolling around...

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It may not fit due to the .....seats?
Lets do a rough check,

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Itll be the inner seat bracket to transfer case being the issue? Maybe...er..

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Hmmmm, looks kind of ok actually, the gods are smiling..
The white outline is roughly where an obtrusion would eminate from the tunnell, sitting under my knees, so there is plenty of room actually,

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What about this driveshaft going to the repositioned front diff>?
Extend a small section of floorpan to accomodate,

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So then, to mock fit this box in, Ill bring the RB26 dummy block down next weekend, and move forward with this trial fit.
There is not much destruction required, apart from cutting of the existing gbox mounts, but they can be rewelded on later when the RWD box goes in.
I may as well make the GTR one fit, itll be easier now than later.

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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 9:30 am 
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So jealous... :P

Keep up the excellent work! And excellent documentation. :tu:


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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 1:54 am 
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Location: Auckland
If your interested, this is the ATTESSA E-TS ECU and its wiring diagram.

Without understanding this, the chance of using the famous GTRs 4WD capacity and the data tables that are stored in this ECU (seperate from the engines ECU) will not happen.

Whats marked up in green is ok and managed by including these parts from the GTR (eg. G Force sensor) or from the 240z (eg. brake light signal).

Others to work out would be, range of throttle position in volts, and the engine speed signal.

Pluggin a meter into a R32 ECU (either E-TS or Engine) would have these values known.
Unsure if the engine speed signal would be sine or square wave at this stage.
Perhaps someone would let me gently poke a sensor probe into the input/output of either ECU from a R32?



Glenn Martin ?>
:-)

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The ABS portion of the E-TS ECU would be ignored, as these are outputs only (assumption).
I could utilise this portion later If I wanted to add more weight and complexity to the car.

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:43 am 
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Location: SF Bay Area, CA
cant wait to see some pics when you bring the RB26 block to mock up the installation!! serious project...definitely need drool cup looking over this. the thought had crossed my mind to do this to my Z..but the amount of time/funds needed is beyond me haha :D good luck!!

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
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Location: Auckland
If your interested, this is the ATTESSA E-TS ECU and its wiring diagram.

Without understanding this, the chance of using the famous GTRs 4WD capacity and the data tables that are stored in this ECU (seperate from the engines ECU) will not happen.

Whats marked up in green is ok and managed by including these parts from the GTR (eg. G Force sensor) or from the 240z (eg. brake light signal).

Others to work out would be, range of throttle position in volts, and the engine speed signal.

Pluggin a meter into a R32 ECU (either E-TS or Engine) would have these values known.
Unsure if the engine speed signal would be sine or square wave at this stage.
Perhaps someone would let me gently poke a sensor probe into the input/output of either ECU from a R32?



Glenn Martin ?>
:-)

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The ABS portion of the E-TS ECU would be ignored, as these are outputs only (assumption).
I could utilise this portion later If I wanted to add more weight and complexity to the car.



So what would alll this complexity add?

Sure beats any fixed % TORQUE SPLIT.



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 5:02 pm 

Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:34 pm
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Location: New Zealand
Nice work! I may have missed it but what colour will it be in the end?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:58 am 
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Location: Long Beach, CA
I've been following this and its awesome! Love the work.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:51 pm 
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Location: Auckland
Still havent decided the paint colour, but that will happen very soon, as Ive given the panel man 2 weeks to complete the car as I have booked in the sandblaster for the inside cabin cleanup and the painter. Itll be 2 tone something grey or light colour.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:30 pm 
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Not interested in Grand Prix Maroon, White or Red?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:05 am 
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Ive attempted to give the panel beater 2 weeks to complete the car from his end, to get some paint applied.



floor squaring off around trans tunnel,

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What about a handbrake?

Holy

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new frame, r33 gtr h.brake from parts bin,

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in its home, looks snug, not too proud. Will chop up standard console to make this fit.

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Make this exhaust clearance work better, and much bigger, to allow lots of heat sheilding, maybe a 4" exhaust in the future.

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Rear bumper aint that straight, maybe look to support this wafer thin item

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Engine bay getting there,

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Mirrors looking the part

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The ugly,

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Remedy for this 'probably' the remainder of the fugly, will be the last bigger job of panel work, some much thicker steel box section from the front castor arms to the rear exisiting subframe.

This will allow;

- The floors to get way more support from this,
- Some flat floor to be attached aka undertray-ing,

- Give support to the driveshaft tail hoop (in case too much traction/power makes something snap) and also the seat mounts support. Phew.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:59 am 
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Wow, things are looking good.
Scott is the young chap working on the car currently, and he is doing a great job.

Its more fabrication now, not exactly smash repair.

The list of work still needed to be done has been agressively dealt to over several days.

Keep it up Scott.


Aluminium Mirror backing plates so they dont disappear first squeeze of the pedal.
You can wind up the spring tension to keep them holding on tighter.

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Exhaust cut out looks spot on. Plenty of room for heat sheilding, perhaps a bigger exhaust later if needed.
Some intrusion into the passenger cabin space, thats fine.

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Handbrake mount welded in.
Underside connection needs attention, was setup for the existing setup. Shorten the cable and modify the mount will sort this.

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Little bits n peices sorted out, fill holes, cover old mistakes etc. Filled the bolt holes to the old bolt in cage that I bought of Mike, I still have this chromed half cage at home if anyone wants it. Dont want much for it. Its certed and looked great in the car.

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Ruddy beutiful floor supports kind of more like frame rails from firewall to the existing rear diff mount. 1.6mm steel folded from sheet.
The frame protrudes into the cabin by maybe 5mm, and lower under the car by 30mm more then the old bits, which were more sad than that that vampire Robert Patinson.

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Nothing better than this in the boot, RB26 block and a bottle of NOS.

Block $50 on auction site, a dummy block for fitting purposes, since it has some rather viscious damage to bores on several cylinders.

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Chuck the GTR box onto the dummy block and we have our fitting kit ready to go in.
At this stage I will fit this kit in, but continue to complete the car in RWD format first. Probably.

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BUT firstly,

Im dubious of the front frame rails being any good, actually, they are rubbish. One area under around the front crossmember is crushed somewhat. Better sort this now. To be made from 1.6mm sheet steel. We can make sure they will be level each side, making the cross member, suspension pickup[ point nice and level.

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old rubbish coming out of the car; the magazine is for the vampire mad misses. I still dont get it, really.

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Im feeling the love here, this is almost ready for colour.

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Im hoping to get the car out from here in about 10 days or less, with current progress, this looks likely.
Its only been here for coming up a couple of YEARS............. :shock:

Most likely watchers will die of old age before these wheels ever turn

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 4:09 am 

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looks great dude :D cant wait to see it painted


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 12:45 am 
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Location: Auckland
Right,

we may be looking good here to keep to almost a two week wrap up with the panelwork

It hits the sandblaster Monday, Painter Tuesday.
No paint colour chosen still. Ill drag the misses down, she is good with colour combos.


440CCA , 5.5kg battery. Grunty n light. But no good for playing the stereo outside the milkbar while doing some bird watching.
It is mounted behind the passenger seat, Motorsport NZ requires 4x8mm bolts. Will be strapped with some foam and a cover of some sort.

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Roll cage to firewall holes filled using these hoops, cut with a slot, fitted and welded.

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Make the bonnet catch shorter to fit the rough bonnet mount to keep the thing upright.
On this note, Mike I better get your gas strut unit back, this will work fine, while even my kids could lift it in place.

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Main chassis rails were not really rusty inside, but were slightly crumpled, thinwalled steel, and detract from a moderate quailty package.
These may be 1.2mm steel thickness, rather weak.

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Cut n removed, new sections in place, levelled to be straight each side, mounts for cross member the same, sway bar mount swapped from the existing rails, since they were modified and were strong and suitable for use.

These have been replaced each side, from the radiator support back to the replaced rails around the castor arm pickups.

For the people in the know, these rails will suit a RWD setup, not a 4WD one. Let it be heard, this car will be completed as version 1, RWD. To start.

Steel is 1.6mm, with additional gusset plates welded on thereafter, way stronger stuff.

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Some good comparisons old/n/new chassis rails.

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Under front gaurds should be heated and scrapped of old tar stuff and ready for sandblast smooth ready for paint.

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Ready for lift off

Showed Dr Greg Taylor the recent updates, he seems impressed. He manages/funds the Kiwi Team Nurburgring every year, knows a thing or two about race cars. He has also helped me with car storage (for many years filling his barn full of precious Datsun cr*p), advice etc. He does reconstruction surgery, breat augmentation and general tidying up of body parts if your interested, or needing a bit of this help. Not one to need this help, give him a bell if you do.

Dr Taylor - The Dad inlaw


Pity that his son Alistair needs some driving advice after righting off the Audi RS4 then setting fire to the thing at the 'ring

da ring burner


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Tired and ready for the pub now, checking out the Hawkes Bay this weekend, a great place.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:53 pm 
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Finally rolled up to the painters.

He reckons 3 weeks to complete the job.

I dropped all the materials off, of which we have;

- bar coat - to join old paints with new in just a few areas,
- etch primer - to cover bare metal in just a few palces, front inner gaurds etc.
- high build primer - to cover all the outside, in prep for the colour after blocking some amount of times
- colour
- clear
- thinners
- hardeners
- masking tape
- etc

the sandblaster did a good job, and took him 36hrs from car entering shop to car being towed out.

he etch primed all the sanblasted areas 30 mins after completing the blast, letting it dry off overnight.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:09 pm 
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Very sexy. 8)

Can't wait to see some color on it. :tu: :mrgreen:

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