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 Post subject: 1990 Toyota Celica GT4A aka The White Elephant - 56k no way
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_elephant
Quote:
A white elephant is a valuable possession of which its owner cannot dispose and whose cost (particularly cost of upkeep) is out of proportion to its usefulness.


I think that this description is particularly suitable for my car, hence the name of this project. Note - this is a repost.. so I have dated things as such :) - car came off the road in Aug 2007... over 2 years off the road lol.. and still not much done.

As you read through, you'll find I've changed my mind several times. I have it left untouched because sometimes its useful to understand the thought processes.

Thanks to stagefumer for egging me on - go motivate him to finish his project :lol: viewtopic.php?t=1861

Enjoy the white elephant

Cheers, Dave

Jan 21, 2008

Hi,

I'm Dave/DeeCee and I am a GT4-A owner from New Zealand.

I thought I'd chuck this in as well as I had already written it for st18x.com when the admin asked "why did you choose a 5th Generation Celica?"
Note: a lot of references to New Zealand local places and content, but i think you'll get the drift ;)

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Interestingly enough, I fell into Celicas by accident.

Around 6 years ago, I was looking for a hatch, mainly Civics and the like as I always enjoyed whizzing around in the smaller hatches.
Unfortunately at the time, I couldn't find any within my price range and was desperately needing a car so when I was around in Miramar looking at cars on the side of the road, I happened to notice a ST182 Black Celica GTR for a half decent price.

The GTR was selling for 3300, and had to be sold that weekend as the owner was leaving for Aus. So I had a test drive and negotiated down to 3000, but also bought some of the sounds installed as well so that increased the price a little.

Considering that I had only driven 1600s up till that time, driving around a 2.0L was a bit of difference!
In the end, the curvy bio design got me hooked and for the couple of years I had it, it was low maintenance and a good runner. And as all things go, I ended up doing some little mods here and there, mostly stereo stuff.

In the end, I found that the GTR was just a big wallowing pillow compared to the GT4 I was about to own!

A friend of mine was selling his GT4A (3 years ago now). Now this GT4 he claimed was a RC model, but in fact was a standard GT4 but just A spec. I took for a test drive and man... it was fast, it handled well (at least compared to the GTR) and it was straight as.
Little things such as the factory widebody got me hooked and knowing that my mate was actually a nanna driving it just made the decision better and better knowing that it had had a pretty good life.
Also: he didn't like driving it in town, his wife drove in town; he didn't fang it cos he isn't a driver and he'd get scared when he'd put the foot down; the car was garaged all its life; he has all 90% of receipts; car had turbo rebuild in the last year at the time.

So after doing some research (which is now a sticky on toyspeed) and finding out that it wasn't an RC, I still bought the GT4A, but just negotiated down and ended up buying the GT4 for $6200. Yep, it may have seemed overpriced, but considering the history of it, I was very happy paying that.

Old GTR
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New GT4A
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Subsequently over the last couple of years, I haven't had a chance to do many major modifications, but more recently over the last year, I have made numerous purchases to increase the potential of my GT4A incl wheels and braces and suspension and RC intercooler and engine components.

As of August last year this was the car:
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At this stage, I had removed the AC and cleared out the underside of the dash for my big audio install. I had also got some brand new 18" wheels in the pattern that I wanted and had installed some king springs and some new KYB shock absorbers. The celica was looking tight!!!

Then someone dinged me on the front guard on my first night out :cry: god that fucking pissed me off! you can notice it in the front guard on the above picture

Anyway I had gone to VTNZ for the warrant near the end of August and expected the car to fly through (esp since the mods were very cosmetic and nothing much more..) and was knocked back by the inspector saying that an oil leak in the car had oil all over the underside of the engine and was just impossible to tell if the car was mechanically sound!
I knew that the engine had a slight oil leak but never thought it was that bad!

I talked to my mates mechanic and he was talking about replacing all the hoses etc and potentially pulling the engine to get everything fixed up which was going to cost 1k - 1.2k and that really got me agonising over decisions. Don't get me wrong, he's a good mechanic, but some of the figures he was talking about at the time were a lot of money. He suggested that he clean up one hose that was the obvious leak, he'd slap a warrant on it and we'd sell it on and look to a diff car.

So here I was with a car that I'd just chucked 2.5k worth of wheels, tyres and suspension onto only two weeks earlier and was now talking about selling it!!

Around 1 week after talking to the mechanic, I killed the syncro gear hub on number 3 and with that, I agonised over what I should do with the GT4. Um.. i can't exactly sell the car with a dead gearbox now! I was planning to off load the car and everything with it and go buy a turbo altezza, or even supercharge the 3sge, as another friend and his dad were using a supercharged beams 3sge in their race car.

After talking with my work colleague who had recently done some engine work on a couple of his cars, he made something along the lines of this statement (note: he's an accountant, so the whole cost/benefit ratio comes into play):

If you buy that Altezza:
a) you'll have a debt to pay. The interest on that debt is money you are giving away.
b) you don't know what has been done to that "new" car. Have the belts been done, has it been thrashed or had an accident etc.
c) if you fix your car, then it you know what has been done and know what should be next in terms of maintenance instead of something of the unknown that could happen.
d) its cheaper to fix your car instead of going out and know what has been done to it instead of buying that other thing which you will want to modify and giving away money while you pay back the loan + interest on a car you don't know the history of.

In the end, the accountants words (sage old man..) hit home and I called Miles Udy gearbox specialists and quizzed him over things to be done and a quote on the work. In the end, it cost just under $3k to remove the box, and replace the cracked syncro hub and all the syncros in the box. I also got him to remove the engine so that I could fix up the leak as well.

Now, you may say that what I get done is expensive, but then again, I know that its been done once and its been done right!

So that is where the project currently sits. I have the engine on a stand / gearbox on the floor of garage. I continually buy parts here and there (most recent was the Tein adjustables I purchased) and I'm still focussed on re-engineering the celica to what my dream car would be.

Most people who know me, constantly ask when the Celica will be back on the road as a joke, but they also know that I'm a very busy person who is starting up a couple of businesses as well as working full time. Understandably, projects like this take time as I want to do as much as possible as I can to ensure that the costs are lower and to ensure that certain areas of work are done to my level of expectations.

So, i'll stick with my GT4 until I'm finished as it will have all my dream car bits and pieces and it will be as original as I want it to be.

The Bio design has actually endured a long time in terms of looking modern on todays roads. It never ceases to amaze me that it can still look reasonably fresh compared to more modern cars and this is after 18 years.

My mate said (after I mentioned that a rally light pod for the hood was for sale..) that he wished I'd gone for the rally look, and after watching a Celica dvd I downloaded, I can see where he would get that idea. I still have some mudflap material in the garage lol..

Thats my Celica story in a nutshell :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Jan 21, 2008

Why I was having a little trouble with the gearbox:
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Anyway - I've commited to building this car now. Its been 6 months thus far and my progress has been low simply because of other work commitments and the daunting task of, essentially, rebuilding the whole car.

Currently the engine is on a stand in the garage with the rebuilt gearbox next to it. As it stands, i'm in the process of cleaning the engine bay, engine and box and making them 'show presentable'

this is my gearbox stripped:
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Thus far, the gearbox has been rebuilt with all new syncros :)

I am getting Boosted's Cusco strut braces as well (when he gets back to me re: account details *poke) and an underbody brace from Canada.

The ct20b will be rebuilt and I the engine will be sent off to an engine builder over the next month.

Mar 27, 2008

Parts and Mods to add to the GT4A:

Cusco Braces - Front / Rear
Tein HA Coilvers
CS Bumper
ST205 Engine
WRX seats
ARP head bolts etc (coming soon)
JUN adjustable cam gears (coming soon)

my list used to be longer with c one camber plates, ct20b, st185 W/A intercooler, 540cc injectors, manifold and dump pipe, but I bought a turnkey ST205 engine with full intercooler setup, turbo, harness etc for $2750NZ a couple of days ago.

I think I might be selling some stuff hahaha
rc intecooler setup anyone?

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Plans for the car:

Initially I wanted to turn my GT4A into a streetable show car.
1. Big custom kit (I f/glass ;) ) with 7th gen lights and custom lights blah blah; redesign the front bar so that you get a Audi R8 look with lights that go straight into the bumper air vents

2. Big audio install (my main hobby is car audio and i'm starting up an online shop soon..) and rebuild the interior to suit a SQ (sound quality) install + add some SPL gear in the back for giggles. I am looking at replacing the rear seats with 2 x RE MT18 woofers.

3. Only 300 - 350hp at the wheels. I don't want to play power games as I don't have a big money tree like some people. I was debating 5sgte under square, but too much hassle for me. I'm not that mechanically inclined.

Overall I wanted to do the majority of work myself, but I've found over the last 6 months with the car off the road, the engine on a stand, gearbox on floor of garage and parts in boxes, that my IT contract work + other external projects have not allowed for the time to spend on the celica. (i was coordinating SQ competitions around NZ as well as being a SPL/doof doof competitor.

With the prospect of opening an online car audio shop as well as my other projects and the realisation that i definitely should not move with trends in show vehicles, I have decided to cut the above plans by.. hmm.. maybe 25% off?

This got me worked up the other day:
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awesome hill climb car with pumped guards - thats all i want really :D
Something a little more staunch and aggressive without being rice and is reduced work to do with the potential to hold its look for ages :up:

So i'll pump the guards on mine and keep it smooth all over, do the CS bumper and add a custom lip and do custom skirts and a rear bumper with diffuser and i think that should be the body side.

I may do some lighting things, but only for the car shows and removable for daily/standard (hey, i gotta market my shiz at shows and stuff.. gotta have the lighting effects unfortunately, but i got tasteful designs in mind ;) )

Audio/interior will stay with the same plan - i love my audio and the car will be a promo vehicle for my store.

Engine - with the new turnkey, its going to be a lot easier to reach my power goals, as the mark is not that high and i'm starting off with a better foundation (oil system, h beam rods, bigger intercooler, larger throttle body, bigger injectors etc).

I might still rebuild the engine and chuck in a couple of lumpier cams, td05/6 hybrid and run it all off a link/linkplus ecu. Upgrade to a walpro and i think we're nearly there haha

Anyway, that's me and my GT4A in a nutshell.

If you need any help audio wise, let me know.
I do both sound quality and spl and have worked with a wide variety of equipment of the years.

I'll chuck up my battery relocation tutorial soon which should help some people :)

Cheers and catch ya around :)

Dave

Edit: i've just been offered some 880cc injectors for $550NZ - 1 day offer.. so tempted but so many other things need my attention money wise :doh:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:47 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Jun 03, 2008

Okay - time for a big update.
Over the next three weeks, I'll be intensely involved in the Celica as I'm working on my business from home.

I unwrapped my baby after 6 months of not looking at it. Thats right, I've been too busy for over half a year to look at the car. It was still polished and waxed and looked the hotness 8)
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Its like its got a lift kit without the engine in it!! Go teh monster truck!
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3SGTE in one corner of garage - st185.
Gearbox rebuilt by Miles Udy Automotive - top chap and knows his shit! (and I bought that extra st205 gearbox cos it was too cheap to pass up haha)
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3SGTE in other corner of garage - st205
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The mess to still clean and sort tonight
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RC Bumper from Gonad / Alex - I forgot it had foggies and the water sprayer!
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Things to do:
1. clean up the garage and sort out all my tools, equipment and space I have to work with.
2. identify all hoses and wires off the st205 engine. Remove and measure to replace with silicon and braided hoses and fitments
3. remove current loom and engine parts/sensors in the engine bay and formulate plan on where I want to mount new radiators, reservoirs and where I will route lines and loom extensions.
4. remove suspension parts and start to strip back paint, grease and grime from under body and in engine bay.
5. Assess current brake and fuel lines and formulate plan on rerouting various lines to present a cleaner engine bay.
6. clean engine and gearbox and paint
7. remove suspension and rear subframe and replace items that are worn. Powder coat or paint as required.
8. clean underside of car, weld in nuts for custom undertry/diffuser and coat in hippo liner.
9. Remove dash and remove excess wiring and make way for Link G3 Ecu and custom gauge setup
10. Weld bolts to firewall internally, block and fill excess holes in firewall and engine bay.

That should keep me busy for a week lol

Parts ordered:
HKS Silent Hi Power Exhaust
ASI Aluminium Radiator
Oil Pump, water pump, inlet and exhaust manifolds
Speed source engine mounts, stainless clutch lines, clutch pushrod, crossmember mounts, cable bushings
TWM Performance short shift kit

Parts to assess and potentially order:
Braided hoses and fittings
Silicon hoses and joiners
Catch cans / reservior tanks
Oil, gearbox, power steering cooling kits incl radiators / adpators
Clutch

Cheers

Dave

Jun 13, 2008
Problem 01: The people who rebuilt my box conveniently forgot my clutch fork and the old thrust bearing...

Oh the joy of chasing something up from 9 months ago :(


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Jun 09, 2008

Okay - so I've been doing a bit of work recently and taking a couple of photos here and there as well.

The gearbox is fully painted in red engine enamel. I took my time in cleaning up the transfer case and box to ensure that I had the best surface to stick to. I can't be half assed as my expectations are high and my friends would constantly give me shit if I didn't do the job properly from the start.

Understandably, there is a sense of high expectation as the boys have some very nice cars to compare with.
That and judging show cars for 3 years, you tend to notice where shortcuts have taken place and/or things could have been done better, so my mind is always thinking what is the "right" way of doing things.

I started on the box and case on Friday night. My friend Nish came around and we talked a bit on engine bays, Link LEM G3 options and wiring and he did a little bit of work on the box cos he felt like it (hey, I'm not going to complain if someone helps me out).

I used scotchbrite pads and a lot of degreaser and sometimes even paint stripper. Nish suggested the paint stripper as the paint stripper brings up grease and grime really easily and doesn't affect the aluminium (he works for bostik international - chemical product people so I could trust his knowledge) but I just made sure that I spread the paint stripper on large areas.

Of note, after removing the grease and grime build up, I found stress fractures and cracks here and there in the gearbox and transfer case. Can't expect too much after 18 years, but I'm confident that there will be no troubles for daily driving.

I ended up finishing cleaning up the box and case on saturday night at 4am after 3 days work cleaning up, removing 17 years worth of grime and built up grease on the transfer case. The box wasn't too bad as the team at Miles Udy Automotive put the box through their parts washer, but there were still areas that needed to be cleaned up.

I thought that I may as well spray at the time as I really really needed to get things underway with the build. I went over every part of the box and case with the wax and greaser remover and then I balanced the gearbox and transfer case on my work table, covered all the necessary areas in tape and proceeded to shoot up the first coat at 4.30am lol. (BTW, if you balance the box and case like I did, just make sure you don't bump the table. Its a pretty precarious position to balance up, though it sits quite nicely)

The next day I got woken up by my mate Jonno and felt like shite as I'd been pulling some late late nights (or early early mornings) and subsequently got back to work after talking some options with placement of catch cans and reservoirs to clean out the engine bay. I also got him to shoot a layer on the box as he is a better sprayer than me.

In the end, I believe around 5 coats have been laid down haha. This was between the normal household chores, and mowing the lawns on Sunday.
In the evening, I rested the gearbox right side up and shot the areas that were missed while on its angle. I did a couple or 3 coats on the areas missed while dismantling the engine.

As to the engine dismantling, a methodically removed all nuts, bolts, hoses, brackets, parts etc etc while documenting using a log book/photos and labelling everything that came off and storing the bolts etc in plastic ziplock bags. I finished up at 2am last night with still a bit more to go.

I rounded off one bolt on the turbo flange, so I had to stop.

Today I've been recovering and getting back the feeling in all my muscles and finger tips - sanding and scrubbing a bitch and I really went to town on the box and case as it was the start of the project. Something small to sink my teeth into lol.

There are a couple of runs, but nothing that can't be taken out with a bit of a wetsand.

It actually seems like everyone is willing to help at the moment. They all know that I'm dedicated to this build and my standard is high so they know that I want to do things right the first time. I have access to cabinet sandblasters, a wide range of tools and the advice of racecar builders, so I'm very very lucky as most things are a 5 - 15 minute drive from my place.

I was just around at Kat's place and borrowing tools and asking questions of Kat and his Dad.
I walked away with rattle gun, snap-on impact wrench bits, rounded nut removal tools, brake/fuel line flaring kit, pulley balancing/puller kit etc and asked a bunch of questions and was answered and advice provided (in the normal straight and very blunt approach of Tom with a bit of shit thrown in lol).

If you want to know the shit.. basically it was "why didn't you just send up the engine to Kevin, spend 7k and get a race engine in a crate in 3 weeks cos its a lot less hassle instead of pissing about with what you say is a better engine" hahaha. Gotta love the constructive criticism.

Basically i had the option with the old engine to send to a race car/engine builder 600km away and get a full rebuilt engine with all forged internals, overbore etc etc and not mess around with stuff.

But then again, the st205 engine has the upgraded oil pump, better cams, turbo, better oil system (i did seriously debate a dry sump, but since I'm not racing, it was like whats the use of that..) etc etc so I'm still happy with my purchase, though I will get unremmitant grief from Tom of not getting the engine rebuilt.

So now, its just a matter of a quick clean up of the garage, getting the flywheel off, getting off pully wheels, removing old engine off stand, putting new engine on stand, removing other stuff and figuring out what can and can't be removed.

Then its simple green in the engine bay with degreaser, removing lines and ancillaries and then removing the dash and old wiring and prepping for the new wiring and possible some other little things as well.

Apparently I'm going to be spraying my own engine bay :eek:

Jonno and I were talking options for the car over lunch and apart from rerouting all the lines and hidding reservoirs etc, I talked about the seam sealer in the bay and cleaning up, or going reasonably hardcore. I am now going hardcore..... oh shit! haha

Cleaning up the bay, deleting holes and filling them in etc etc. Use etch primer, then lay down new seam sealer and look at shooting my own engine bay.... Looks like I'm going to be rather busy!

That and I'm on a Link group buy, so that will be in a couple of weeks and I'll be hardwiring up the link as I'l be running seperate gauges and minimising a wide range of electrical connectors and stuff in the bay.

Speedsource bits arrived in mail the other day. Exhaust I need to rearrange delivery for as I missed the other delivery. I believe the shortshift kit from TWM is at the post office to be picked up. ASI radiator arrived last friday.

Still need to order a bunch of things - new oil and transmission radiators, hoses and braided pipes and fittings.
Pictures up later, I have to remove a flywheel, clean the garage and move engines around the place :)

As you can see, a whole bunch of grease, grime and work to be done. Some of the build up was 3mm thick
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Nish cleaning up an easy part lol
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As you can see, he didn't do much.. like a 50mm x 100mm patch haha
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Progress getting made!
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I had to orientate the gearbox on all sorts of angles to be able to clean it.
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Some of the micro fractures in the metal and some casting crap
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Cleaned up with a dremel nicely though :)
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More cleanliness
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Doesn't photograph well with a flash haha
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Balanced amazingly
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More micro fractures and a crack in the diff case. It "should" be okay *fingers crossed
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Ready to spray
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All important bits covered up
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Jonno the next day shotting a layer in the morning before lunch
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Looks good in the light :)
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Covering up in preperation to spray over the missed areas.
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This is my mate Jonno's car PhatRS just before Autosalon Christchurch 07

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Jun 16, 2009
So haven't had any motiviation for ages on doing stuff to the celica, but I have been doing some stuff here and there like tutorials and changing the boot struts (hey, it all counts to time on the celica lol).

Recently I have been helping out my freind Jonno on his subaru legacy to cap off his widebody build and track prep. (that blue thing above went widebody)
Basically removing lots of sound deadening and sanding is boring and numbing. But overall, it has motivated me to get back onto the celica with gusto.
That and moving a bunch of stuff I can't use with the new engine as well.

Yay for light weight cars
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Got Widebody? Wetsanding 400 and 800 wasn't as bad as I thought and it saved Jonno a heap of time on some stuff.
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When I previously took out the dash and all firewall components some months back, I did find this:

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Basically the clutch pedal box had broken and was repaired in car. I'll take it apart soon and get my friend to weld it up properly.

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Currently whole engine bay and front end has been cleaned out and I will be removing all the paint and then applying etch primer.
Otherwise I assemble the engine components again, put engine and box into the car and then prepare the loom for hiding (or at least reducing).

I have also arranged to do some work at my friends fathers garage where they pretty much have every tool imaginable, which saves a lot of time and money in doing things. The bargining was cheap (several trays of chinese pork buns), and they haven't done any work on their redline classic in ages, so I get to play while they are doing other stuff.

I also get access to industrial cleaners as per their arrangement with a tools repairer. As the conversation goes:
- So can I buy this cleaner stuff to pay my way?
- No
- Umm, so how much does it cost?
- Its free (40 litre container of stuff that eats rust and all sorts away)
- Umm, how is it free?
- Oh, we get it from XXX and he just gives it to us
- Umm, so what can I give to pay my way then?
- Well, we do get XXX to get us pork buns, but we haven't got any off him for a while. All I ate when I was in China was pork buns.. yummy!
- Done! Pork Buns it is! (i have access to the pork buns no troubles)

This is the car that they are building, the Redline Roadsport. The company was sold to an international buyer so no more are available in NZ for kitcar construction.
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Anyway, some photos of the garage.

Chassis covered in stuff :lol:
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Sanding cabinet (oh, they have a nice big air system in the garage and air jack points in several locations)
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The front of the chassis. The car will ride on Koni adjustables useing Wilwood dynalites running a dry sump system (that red reservoir at the front is like an accusump - continuous oiling system on dry sump setup up). Suspension is proprietry design and the brakes are on custom mounts etc
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Close up. As you can see, they haven't done much work for a while due to their work commitments. Pulsar hubs I believe.
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Rear rotors on custom aluminium hats (yes, it is a full size rotor, around 300+ mm :lol: )
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Presses and angle grinders all around the place. Kind of handy really.
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The work bench covered in stuff. Custom solid diff mount.
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A couple of diffs floating around the place. LSD out of Skyline and other out of a pulsar. LSD will go into pulsar housing. There was also another diff housing floating around the place, and Kat wasn't sure what it was for :lol:
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Wheel bearing press with 10 tonne hand crank. Story goes as such:
Kat's flatmate needed to change a bearing on his honda civic with b18c. Other press equipment was too small, so they ended up going down to the local shop and chucking this beasty on the account no issues. Lots of tools and equipment in this garage, and a lot bought for unique jobs with the idea that it will be used later
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Looms, manifolds, and boxes of shit all over the place. Manifold is off the Altezza 3SGE.
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Toyota W55 gearbox just sitting around the place. Diff housings, brakes down the back.
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Custom A arms
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They have Mig and Tig welders around the place. Kat held up the exhast on the Altezza 3SGE engine. Better shot later.
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The more I look at this photos, I think, WTF is around this place!. Dynalites on hubs
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Custom built aluminium radiator. Fabrication company PWR spray painted their logo on it, even when Kat and father said they didn't want the logo on. Redline Classics former owner (still supports company and builders with custom stuff) tried to scrub off the paint, but it came up in the photo)
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Random brake bracket floating in a box of stuff. I think this was a test bracket that didn't work out.
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Wheels under the bench. That thing on top of the box is the seat for the car. Its just a piece of folded steel and they'll chuck a small thin pad in for comfort. Your bum would be 50mm off the ground if you sat in the finished car.
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Pit bike that is rarely used.
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Custom muffler with custom manifold
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Here is the engine, manifold and exhaust. Rather short isn't it :lol:
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Redline dry sump system. Oil pump will sit where the standard power steering pump is on the other side of the engine.
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That mystery diff housing over there. Oil pickup is rather rusty hahaha
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Now here is a unique one. The Altezza 3SGE engine needed a custom modified bellhousing to mate up to the W55 gearbox. Kevin @ Redline mentioned trying a Toyota Liteace bellhousing. And guess what, it fits perfectly. Weird toyota stuff.
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Anyway, I'll start sorting out the garage more, get rid of some work on the go at the mo and start washing parts over at the garage. Then start to prep and paint and sorting out the loom, assemble the engine and get it fitted up and see where I need to weld the firewall up.

I have painted the engine block recently lol. It was cleaned throughly before hand. Don't worry about the paint on the sump and oil pump. New pump is in a box behind me and the sump is getting removed. More on that later.

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I also decided to break out my Jun vernier cam gears and have a look see on the engine.
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Enough for now.. time for work.

Cheers
Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
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Location: New Zealand
Aug 02, 2009

I have been having fun with some of the wiring for the elephant.

Recently, I've been helping friends with their cars, namely Jonno's Subaru and Richies Rover Tomcat and as such, have had some more motivation to get the Celica back on the road.
Here are photos of Jonno's Subaru 8)

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I've found that we generally get jobs done faster when the boys and I work together. This helps motivate us and its a good time had by all. Nothing wrong with a little helping hand and it makes work easier when we are all focussed on one big thing and know how each other works as well.

But with the elephant, there are certain things that I have to do myself. The rewiring of the car is one big job to do that I can do without help, especially since I'm quite pedantic with what I need to do.

There are 3 piles of wiring to tackle:
1. Old engine harness wiring I salvaged, includes some lighting wiring and plugs that went into the main fuse box.
2. New engine harness loom which came with the st205 engine.
3. Interior wire harness under the dash (which was previous cut back due to AC deletion)

Each harness needs plugs and exact wires identified and deletion of extra wiring. I may leave some extra wires in for water sprayer unit or fog lights. I'll have to figure out what I want to keep and what I want to get rid of.

The aim is to have a fully (well mostly) hidden wiring loom / harness with fuses and relays relocated under the custom dash later on.
Identification of the wiring also helps with the planned gauges as well as the possibility of an aftermarket ECU. I'll add plugs into the main engine harness and gauges so that I can make up a quick harness for addition of the aftermarket ECU.

After some discussions with my aircraft engineer friend / business partner about crimping and plug options available, I'll be crimping wire joins as required and cover with double walled heatshrink insulation with possibly a meltable barrier for added moisture resistance.
It's what they do on the planes, so that is the method to use over soldering a joint.

There will be 3 distinct harnesses / looms in the elephant:
1. Engine, engine related ancillaries
2. Lights, gauges, power windows, cool stuff / extra ancillaries
3. Audio related.

So on to the work.

I set up a temp work bench in the garage, moved a pile of crap blocking the drivers side door and stuff inside the cabin and grabbed the new and old engine loom from the boot and the dash loom.

Here is a photo of the pile of fun I have to figure out - this old and new engine looms.
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Seperated out some. I had started taking apart the old loom a little previously, but I had the fun of trying to sorting out the tangle of wire.
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I did bother to label a lot of plugs and sensors previously, thank goodness!
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First plug to tackle. Not sure what it was.. I think it was for the AC or ABS. I've removed the AC and my car didn't come with ABS. No use for that wire!

As you can see, the plug has a plastic lift point that locks the terminal in the plug. On this one, I lifted it out, but for others, I just lifted them up some to allow the pin to come out.

To unpin the terminal for the plug, pull the plug lock up and then using a jewellers screw driver push the lock tab down and jiggle the pin out. I'll make a diagram later to show how it works.
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I had to get the grommet off so I could seperate and identify the plugs and wiring properly. Yep - I unpinned each plug to get them past the grommet so I can seperate and identify each wire.

Its a matter of being methodical. Unpin one wire, get past the grommet, repin. I did this for 5 plugs with too many wires :lol:
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Slowly working my way through.
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And the old harness grouped and temporarily sorted. Some wiring was joined, like common grounds, so I cut and chucked a knot or two or used some coloured electrical tape to identify each cut connection.
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Since I did that little tutorial for removing the plint, I had everything just hanging out the back of the car. Since the old plint had a crack in it, I decided to change it over with a replacement plint.

I then decided to take apart the plints and clean them up.
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Pretty easy to take apart. Just some tabs to pop out and screws to release and it all comes apart pretty easily.
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A pit of simple green and a toothbrush for cleaning.
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clean plugs vs dirty plugs. The rest of teh car will get the same treatement.
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Interior harness to tackle. Previously cut back with the deletion of the AC, so I had to undo the old work.. as it goes.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:50 am 
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Aug 02, 2009

So while I was looking at the interior dash harness, I went and got some of the control boxes and cluster that handled the ancillaries through the car.

For some reason, I decided to take apart my cluster so that I could show br0z how to install his 260km/hr faces.
Then something that irked me for many years reared its head.. the odometer number that was not aligned properly.

Gauge cluster apart... odo number out of alignment.. grrr... I can fix that! Don't start jobs that at 1am and when tired!

Please note - I do not advocate the following mayhem. It is illegal to tamper with the odometer (at least in NZ) so don't try and get too smart mmkay!

I reset the odometer reading to my original reading. I just wanted the number aligned!

Enjoy the mayhem... took me around 3 hours to figure out the best way to do it and get it back to its original reading.

In hindsight, I'll probably end up running two sets of odometers. You wonder why I am thinking this?

Well, the shell has done 163361kms. The engine has done 104446kms. I could just take off that amount off the odo reading, but I think I'll try and be a little bit more trick and run two odometers. Just wire in parallel with a relay if required.

On to it. I'll just make quick notes. I've got other stuff to work on.

With the cluster disassembled, I thought I'd fix up the misaligned number.
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Back of the circuit board, the gauge mechanism is held in with 4 tabs and a pin block to the side. Pry up and straighten out.
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Gently pry up
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again, gently pry up. Be very gentle.. don't want bent pins!
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4 connecting pins for mechanism.
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underside of mechanism
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misaligned number for reference. note dials are held in with melted plastic to sides of shaft.
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i carefully cut away melted plastic.
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reference of position of side plastic for correct seating when reassembled.
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seperated
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plastic side cog moves number dial up and down. Cogs work, logically, by end cog going full rotation and then clicking over next cog one point.
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hold at either end, pull plastic piece from metal shaft. (note i cleaned my hands as i didn't want evidence that i had tampered with the odo)
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as you can see, there is a mini sprocket inside that rotates with the main sprocket.
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internal sprocket gearing, small sprocket with 9 sides which has 3 higher gears
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gearing point for rotation on 3 point of mini sprocket. This was out of alignment on the 2nd left dial causing the misalignment.
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tiny little thing isn't it!
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seperated out.
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note spring on shaft
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shaft on number dial spacer. note hole to side of spacer. hole is on all dials and spacers and holders. Its the alignment tool.
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I used the main shaft to align the dials to 0. Its a tight fit, but it does fit. Each spacer/dial fits very carefully together. Hole in spacer is aligned with the dial mini sprocket holder. It should fit flush together, no gaps. I used a needle to lift the mini sprocket and align to across from the alignment hole.
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hole and mini sprocket aligned.
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back to 0.
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note alignement of spacer shaft as main shaft is through alignment hole
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hold the cluster tightly and pull the alignment pin. dont' want to let dials and spacers get out of alignment.
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So now the story gets interesting.

I aligned to 0 and decided to use the drill as so many others have talked about to get the odo reading back to 163361. It doesn't work the best.

After mucking about with the drill for a bit, I realised that in order for the odo to read back up to 163361 kms, I had to sit with the drilling turning for about an hour or more at full RPM.
1) the cogs may strip or plastic melt.
2) the drill may run out of battery
3) i can't be bothered sitting there holding my finger on the trigger.

I could have chucked it on the drill press, but the plastic holding pin was coming loose in my fingertips.. so having to constantly check it was not an option.

Odo reads 194 after a couple of minutes and lowish RPM on the drill.
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So after taking apart the dials and spacers around 10 - 15 times as it would sometimes come apart or get loose, I decided to manually set the odo.
Each time it came slightly apart, I had to disassemble and reassemble carefully. Painful I tell you. (around 3 am at the time..)

This is what I did. If you number across from left to right 1-6 (just imagine it...) I threaded 1 and 2 dials on and set to 0. Then i turned #2 cog to click over #1 cog to 1 with #2 cog set to 0. Then added #3 cog at 0 and clicked over #3 cog so that #2 cog was at 6.

eg
00 - click over = 10, add spacer, mini and dial usine needle to push around the mini cog to alignment.
100 - click over = 160, add spacer mini and dial
160 - click over = 1630, add spacer mini and dial and so on.

Took me around 5 attempts to get it.. or something more.. I dunno.. i was just tired and wanted the job done.

Finished dial back to 163361 with numbers in alignment. A dab of hotglue to hold inplace and back together again.
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Enjoy my pain

Dave

Here is the little video I took of the speedo drill fun I had.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:50 am 
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Location: New Zealand
You know the funny thing.. I've kind of documented what Jonno has done while I have fixed up my car..

He went widebody, full repaint, stripped out interior, added this, that and all the rest and my modifications are still slowly plodding away hahahaha

Aug 19, 2009

Someone went GQ.... coming to an ad campaign soon ;)

Excuse the same angle.. I seemed to like it (and it hid the bin in the background :lol: )

My friend Jonno got asked for a photoshoot for an insurance company that insures modified cars. Apparently his mods list was around 5-7 pages long :lol: and the car being so heavily modified, there was some interest at the insurance office.

Issues:
1. The company set no specific time frame
2. Jonno wanted to remove the engine for a rebuild.

As you can imagine, there was some concern from the person who was organising the shoot when Jonno told them this information. Then again, Jonno didn't want to waste time in breaking down his EJ20 for his new build.

So - some improvisation was in order. Who can guess what we did to lower the front of the car?

Enjoy the pics from my crappy camera BTW..

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:51 am 
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Aug 20, 2009

Jonno wanted to chuck a couple of the boys under the hood, but they would have had to stay under the hood for an hour and a hlaf while the photographer took photos :lol:

I ended up making a quick wooden shelf for the block to sit on, then we put some pavers on and around the block plus a battery to one side.

Roll it back and forth to reduce the amount of camber at the front and roll the car into position for the shoot :D

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If you notice, the radiator is on an angle behind and intercooler isn't even hooked up ;) :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:51 am 
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Location: New Zealand
Feb 21, 2010

So I haven't bothered to update for ages. Lots of changes in life, more work on the celica as I'm not as busy and I need to fill my days while unemployed and looking for work.

Bunged my back/shoulder blade today, so couldn't do any work as I couldn't raise my arm properly and didn't want to aggrevate it any more. Must be the way I sleep I reckon..

Anyhoo, decided that its time for an ULTRA update! I really mean ultra. I've sorted all my photos and have started putting them in my photobucket.

On OC i mentioned the following on Jan 21, 2010.

Quote:
whats new really?
st182 gen2 shifter (to test short shifting) + mounting plate - $15
clutch pedal and pedal cage - $11
shifter mounting plate (cos somehow I dethread one of the bolts on the other shifter mount) - $6
st182 gen 2 side engine mounts, cam side took 3 hours to remove with block and tackle holding up engine. gb side took 15 minutes - $8 each (yay for more urethane!)
st215 side feed manifold + throttle body - $160 8)
Hilux Surf / 4runner 4 pot brakes - $52
st18x gen 2 lights ex centre plint - $40
st185 drivers and passenger seats - $11 (score hahaha)


Lets get into it 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:53 am 
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So back in Oct 08, this is how it looked.
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As you can see, it is an absolute mess. At the time the engine came out, there was an oil leak so it go pretty messy in the bay.
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Just after New Years 08 -> 09 the car actually came out of the garage. I needed to lay a large plastic drop cloth down to ensure I didn't wreck teh garage floor.
The elephant hasn't been out of the garage since.
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Sheet down ready to get into it.
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Yay for cleaning products. I procrastinated about this for ages until I finally got stuck in and cleaned the bastard.
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Boo for screws. There is a small pile of screws sitting on my bench on the far side of the garage, still unsorted. Guess we'll see where they go when I put it all back together.
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For some reason, there was black paint in the bay. No crash damage evident, so I assume a Friday build.
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This is the main reason I wanted to clean up the bay. Badly applied seam sealer - SO UGLY!
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Look at this mess! I reckon that a rookie was in the bay along on the passengers side and he did a crap job.
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My battery bracket looking the worse for wear. Thats getting removed!
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Removed everything out of and around the bay and suspension arms and bits. Got into cleaning, took me a couple of nights to do.

Couldn't take a high shot as I have wheels, engine and gearbox next to the front of the car. Hope you like the compilation.
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This side of the bay is much tidier for some reason. As said before, I reckon its because of two people in the bay, one experienced on drivers side, one rookie on passengers side.
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Direct comparison from one strut tower to the other
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removing seam sealer in this section was a bitch!
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Power steering mount area is free of cracking. I have subsequently taken it back to bare metal in this area and there is no evidence of cracking due to stress. I'll leave it as it is.
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Underbody sealer all over the place :(
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Crack on one of the welded nuts. Will have to fix that up.
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As you can see, the seam sealer is all dry and cracked up.
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I used a heatgun to loosen it up and then used a scrapper/screwdriver/blade to remove the sealer.
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Deplorable I tell ya - sigh. This area of seam sealer covered 3 pieces of metal welded together. Time consuming to say the least.
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As you can see, this side is a lot smoother.
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I removed nearly all the seam sealer in the bay - this is the behind the front frame of the bay.
Of note, I didn't remove sealer in between panels as I'd then have to ensure that there was no rust between.

Majority of seam sealer was removed manually. I tried the EZ strip disc on the angle grinder in a couple of places and it just clogged the disc.
Otherwise I just got messy and used a wire brush attachment on the hammer drill. Basically I was trying not to go all the way down to the original primer on the metal. That way, there was less risk of rusting in hard to reach places.
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Paint over spray from factory and drips... shocking!
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Jonno came over and decided to remove the battery bracket. He works fast, while I am more pedantic in how I go about doing my work. Guess thats why he's modified his car so much and I am still going :lol:
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Clean chassis rail
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While he was here, he also welded up the engine mount brackets a bit more solidly. We did discuss stitch welding all the panels, but decided against it since it would make the car too stiff and it will be a daily driven car.
He did blow a hole in one area of panel on the drivers side but that is getting fixed soon along with welding up holes in the bay.
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My aim is a very smooth engine bay. Jonno bogged up a lot of areas and spot welded depressions. I had the job of cleaning up stuff.
This is how the bay looked before Christmas 09.
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So that is the engine bay so far.
Metal is starting to rust. Its been humid over here, but nothing a quick go over with the EZ strip disc won't fix.
More bogging and sanding and have to fix the weld blow hole. Get that cracked nut/panel welded and cut up some metal to fill holes I won't use in the bay.

Of note, I am looking at a Mitsi Pajero rear under seat heater for demister duties.
Basically I was looking at computer fans or electric hairdryers but after research, they just weren't good enough.
The pajero unit uses the water pipes for the heater like standard. I'll just need to figure out how to control it, but it is a smaller unit compared to a standard fan unit.

Maybe a good alternative for race cars :)

So ends the engine bay update.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:53 am 
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So I started work on the front suspension components as well as doing measurements for the brake upgrade.
Typically everything was dirty, not surprising for a 20 year old car :lol:
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Cleaned up vs dirty. I'll most likely give the A arms a light sand and then paint. No use going back to bare metal as normally new paint will just chip off and I'm too cheap to powder coat :lol:
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Amazingly some components are actually silver!
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After dunking various bits and bobs in malt vinegar over night, they come out mighty fine and clean. Of note, the vinegar / acetic acid, attacked the zinc aggressively, so components that were dunked have to be re-zinced or etch primed before painting.
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Ah - my Tein HA's - Driving Master! The Teins were corroded and it was time to clean them up (only started the other night :lol: )
Also, I don't want green on my car. I'll paint them red to match the overall theme of teh elephant.
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Cos I like to keep a record of all my stuff, you get the pictures :P
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Rust bad mmkay...
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As you can see, rust down below.
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Taped up and ready for stripping.
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Tools of choice - EZ Strip disc on angle grinder and wire wheel on drill.
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Getting there. Care was taken not to go all the way to the edge. I hand sanded at the edges.
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Bottom of the strut with nice rust..
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Of note, Tein actually stamped what side the strut should go on. Very handy as I removed teh labels :lol:
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Manual brush work to get into hard to reach places.
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Stripped and nearly ready for painting. Couldn't get all paint, so ended up sanding stuff as flat as possible. Where there was evidence of rust below the paint, that is where I concentrated on.
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I set up a little spray booth out of my old amp rack from the Forester. I was going to make fabricate something up, but knocked out the inner wall piece and added some cardboard and bob's your uncle, spray booth!
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of note, I also removed old tape and put on new clean tape as I had cut into the edges of the old tape..
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Start of etch priming :) Paint is coming soon!
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:54 am 
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I feel its important to chuck in a mix of stuff while I do my thing.

Gives you an indication of other friends progress and project evolution while I do my thing and highlights where I get my ideas / critique / motivation from :)
You've already seen Jonno's stuff in the past so time for a new project to have a look see

Every once and a while, I go over to my friend Nick's place to either help on his project or use his sand blasting cabinet.

This is a R30 Skyline coupe that he is building up :) Runs an L28 with Holset HX40. I have the fun job of wiring in the Link and fixing up the alarm later *sigh.

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One working bee day, I spent the whole time just cleaning his garage and sorting out his mess! Yes - I'm a nice guy :lol:

Check his build on jap nostalgic car :D
viewtopic.php?t=1861&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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Sometimes I go over to Leigh's place to borrow tools or get him to whizz something up for me.
This time around, I found that my vice was marking up the engine mounts I was cleaning up. I remember him talking about "soft jaws" so I rung him up and he said he used aluminium pieces to make "soft jaws" for his vice.

So popped over and he was rebuilding his car trailer. Various changes and welding all done up - looked pretty good :). Apparently the next trailer will be a modular job that will have a tip mechanism as well be able to turn the trailer into a horse float as his fiancee's rides.

So after discussin the soft jaws, he quickly cut up his bits of aluminium (while in socks) and gave me he offcuts to use. Apparently there are more suitable pieces around, its more a matter of finding them.

I left him to finish up the trailer while he was wearing his safety jandels, while cutting up steel and welding..

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Back to the elephant :)

After going to Nick's place to use his sand blasting cabinet, i had some slightly better mounts.
The issue with snad blasting is that it reaches hard to get to places, but takes a lot of time. It is hobbyist stuff after all. That and there was no moisture filter on the hose as Nick was running my compressor and his in parallel for his work on the skyline. Gar!

So I decided to attach my metal bits and bobs with the wire brush attachment. Trick - go clockwise and anticlockwise to make the attachments last longer. Also, I found that going anticlockwise was the best way to remove paint and rust build up while slowly and lightly going over pieces. No need for hard pressure, just a steady hand over the object.
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initially the gearbox mounting plate was left in malt vinegar to remove rust, with sand blasting afterwards. As you can see, once the rust was removed, pitting is evident. I'm not caring about the pitting so much as the rust removal.
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Rough casting left little bits of metal around. A quick file cleaned that up easily.
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Shiny! Bling :lol:
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A arm mount getting the big clean :)
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The ST185 mounts are, well not exactly the most desirable things in the world.
As countless people have upgraded their mounts using polyurethane or inserts, I purchased my poly mount set for the front and rear mounts from speed-source -> http://www.speed-source.net/ . really great guys who answered my questions and i bought a bunch of kit from them. Of note, because it's east west layout, the side mounts are just for holding the engine in position and the front/rear mounts are the stablisers for when the engine moves in position when the torque is applied (i'm sure you know it, but I learnt it by asking q's and its part of the story :P )

While I was on one of my journeys to Pick A Part, I noiticed something shiny in the engine bay of a st182. It was the drivers side engine mount. My rubber bushings were the worse for wear so I decided to get this shiny one (as I was going to polish mine anyway) and found that the st182 unit had more urethane in them. So why not get it?! It was shinier after all :) So after 3 hours work to detach the engine and raise it up, I had myself a $8 ngine mount :lol: So much work for such a small part. Subsequently, I got the passengers side mount as well, which took all of 15 minutes to get out. The gearbox mount fits onto the gearbox mounting plate :)
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Of note, the offset of the shim is slightly different between the st182 and st185. The speed source poly mounts are also offset. Not to mention that the aluminium cross member bushings also lower the cross member frame lower as well. Hopefully it all lines up nicely at the end of the day.
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Wire wheel cleaning up things nicely. Remember, slow and steady is the key :)
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Underside of the gearbox mounting plate.
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Ah the amp rack paint booth :) taped up and ready to go 8)
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And a test of spacing for the hangers. The hangers are bent in such a away to allow me to pull them off while still keep the the to be painted piece further in the booth. Worked out great :D
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Wax and grease remover and ensuring cleaning in all areas
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Taped up
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Etch primed up. I went etch and then sprayed with Bright Zinc-It. Only after did I realise that etch already has zinc in it :lol: Oh well, all part of the learning process. I used some chrome look paint I found on the other side of the garage to make it a little shinier than the bright zinc.
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The front and rear mounts. Internals are to be replaced with the Speed Source poly mounts.
Now I do have access to presses, both friends and the neighbours workshop. But in my "f it, i'll just get into it, I followed Speed Source's guide of sectioning the metal and then removing the mount.
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Taking the blade of the hacksaw and inserting the blade into mount gap, I carefully saw out the inner metal. Patience was taken to ensure I didn't damage the outer mount metal too much.
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Moving forward from Speed Source's guide, I actually sectioned two areas out and folded the metal in between to create a larger gap. Of note, I had to actually cut at 3-4 places to make the inner shim mount loose enough to hammer out.
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Folded back using a screw driver and hammer - slowly but surely :D
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Tap out inner mount piece by applying tapping force around the circumference of the inner mount shim.
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Easy does it - don't need to damage the external mount piece.
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Ta Da!. As you can see, it takes a bit of metal removal to get it out.
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The first one came out easily. The second one, not so easy and required a lot of mangling and removing the centre section first. Easiest way to remove urethane was to use the hacksaw plade to cut through the polyurethane.
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While on mounting, the crossmember was covered in grease and grime. Some degreaser and a hose cleaned up a bit of it. I'll come back to it later. Work in progress.
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Painted passengers side mount. Not bad looking aye? A little paint overspray past the tape, but can easily be sanded off.
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My pretty Speed Source mounts. Because I (and friends) played with them initially, they became mismatched. So when I was test fitting them, one unit sat freely in the engine mount bracket and the other one didn't. That was until I noticed the numbers and figured out that there was. maybe a 1 - 1.5mm difference between two of the mounts. Poly 4 + poly 4 = one mount. Poly 2 + poly 3 = the other mount :)
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Nice 8)
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Engine brackets not painted, just cleaned for now. Will sort those out later.
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St182 mount on left, st185 mount on right. Milled mount on st182 + more urethane.
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I borrowed jonno's bench grinder and bought a sisal polishing wheel. I started on polishing, but am finding that it would be easier to sand back the casting and then polish later.
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Mounts etch primed. Oversprayed one, so will sand back and clean up before painting.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:56 am 
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Yay - just got awarded a Blue Peter Badge for my effort in turning an amp rack into a paint booth by Muddy Water on GT4DC :D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:56 am 
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When I got my gearbox rebuilt, I got a couple of boxes of nuts and bolts and linkages etc.
The box sat around for, well, 2 years :lol: So in early december, i decided to sort it out one night.

Still don't know exactly what all the nuts and bolts are. I'm sure I'll figure it out :lol:

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In one of the boxes, was the gear shifting linkage. Since I wanted to test out the malt vinegar trick, I thought I may as well try it on this.
So I took it apart and left it over night in the malt vinegar with some washers and other bits.
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Hrmm.. rather weathered and dirty :(
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Malt vinegar - acetic acid
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And we'll come back to that later :)

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So onto the clutch pedal...
When I took apart the dash and ancillaries on the firewall, I found that the clutch pedal cage had been welded back together.
Obviously, it had broken to some vigourous leg action :lol: and had been welded up in situ as the repair. Subsquently the weld had rusted and they'd burnt through some of the foam/rubber sound deadening.
And there was a "bridge of weld" where they didn't contact metal.

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Inititally I was just going to take it apart, remove rust and the repair welds and get one of the boys to weld up the cage better, but in the end, I ended up finding a rev2 manual st182 at Pick A Part and pulled the pedal out.
To do this, requires taking apart the dash, dropping the steering rack down and undoing the internal dash cross member to access and remove the pedal/cage.

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There are differences between the rev1 and rev2. Overall they are the same, except rev2 has a diff spring and extra reinforcing / gussets.
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Extra mounting tab to the side as well as a stop for pedal arm travel.
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extra gusset at one mounting point
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see - no gusset on the old one
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So i'll clean up the new cage/pedal arm etc and that will be that - later of course.

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Sometimes shit happens. In this case, I some how munted the thread on the shifter mounting plate. When I checked today, there was one bad screw, so that was probably the reason.
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But a replacement out of a rev1 st182 solved the problem :D Will clean up and protect later.
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When I was looking at the rev2 st182, I remembered that the shifter was different and apparently with shorter throw (well at least in the RC and rev2 gt4). So I bagged myself the shifter and will look at differences later in the mix. Of note, the base is higher and uses 3 points for mounting instead of the original 4 as well as plastic.
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Gotta have the good stuff aye ;) TWM short shifter for rev1 st185. Should be interesting to see the difference in throw once this is in.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Organised a welder and Jonno to come in on Saturday and do the welding on the firewall.

because i am looking at mounting a heater unit into the bay, I have consider mounting on the other side of the firewall. Brackets/nuts/bolts will have to be welded in place for the heater and the sub box. Once the engine bay is primed and ready to paint, I don't want to redo work due to weld heat marks or blow throughs if Jonno goes too hard.

Sometimes you just have to get stuck in no matter what and when.....

2.25am - cleaning the underside of the car and inside wells to prep for rhino liner and priming later on.
If i push through, i reckon i can get the high build primer down by sunday. Jonno's car got certed finally and now he's kicking my ass to get the bay done espec. since he will have little time to help me out when his baby comes in around 4 weeks time.

Vodka and a lemon lime bitter to make the experience pass a little faster.
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The mess that is the garage at the mo. I only cleaned the damn thing 2 weeks ago.
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Gotta clean the damn thing as it was black under here and i want the rhino liner to have the best surface possible to adhere to.
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My fun view for.. checks.. next couple of hours - i'll go till 4am or so i reckon.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:41 pm
Posts: 5591
Location: LA
Epic build thread, mate. I have a soft spot for all these Celicas. :tu:

_________________
Tyler wrote:
How I long for a shit brown wagon.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:17 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
I haven't updated in ages but since I'm playing around in the garage on my birthday to let off some steam:

Original turbo...
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New turbo:
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:04 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:48 am
Posts: 29
Location: Natchitoches, Louisiana
You put alot of work into this thing! Can't wait to see the final outcome.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 2:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:23 am
Posts: 50
Location: New Zealand
Remember these rusty pictures?

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Winter is finally over and I've actually finished the painting of the Tein's hahaha. Beautiful day for painting and doing work on the car :)

Etch primed
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Starting with the red engine enamel (oh and this was in august haha)
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Nearly there
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Looking pretty good now!
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Actually been doing quite a bit of work on the car lately. Slowly trying to remember how all the components of the engine go back on, cleaning ( a lot ), a little bit here a little bit there.

Work is pretty crazy at the mo, but I am more motivated recently, so that's always good.

Front suspension done for the most part, just need to do all the 100 other different things as well :)

More pics up later


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