Kev, you make me laugh


what ... by punching a hole through the block to escape?

_________________
www.ndsoc.com.au

A 320 ute, 2 roadsters, 2 1200's ...... & a Prince.

I'm SO sorreeeee....

_________________

Any race instructor would drag you thought the coals for that steering technique though....

*sob*

_________________

To let Kev off the hook a bit, it's a case of wrong time wrong place.

On another note, that's me in front in Kevs luxo mobile.
Kev had it all set up with the traction control off and everything, I hopped in, didn't realize it was actually RUNNING, and tried to start it, thereby switching back on the trc and all the other electronic nannies.
Cars too damn quiet Kev!
Needs an open exhaust

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

You guys are too funny!

Get a cheap silvertop long motor, swap plenum, flywheel, hot side, sensors, accessories on, bang it in.
I'm confident I could do it in a day. Value ++++++. Much as I love redtops, they have a bad habit of crapping themselves. Brilliant rebuild platform though.

_________________

I actually drove the car home reeaaallly slowly, then parked it for 2 weeks while I had a think about what the noises could be.
After a few discussions I figured it would have to be that the belt had jumped teeth on the cam wheels.

So I pulled the cam belt covers off and lo and behold, found this on the inlet cam.

I'm a better diagnostician than I thought I was. Just call me House.
What you're seeing here is that the faint white stripe should be lined up with the dot on the cam wheel.
As you can see, it's 4 teeth out.

And this on the exhaust side.

3 teeth out.

Also found this

Do you remember back near the beginning of this thread I opined that you shouldn't run an engine without cam covers?
That looks to me a lot like stone damage.

So about this time I'm thinking pistons into valves, valve damage etc.
Funny thing was that on the way home and on all subsequent startups there was no noise, albeit at low revs.

The plot thickens.

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

Is your crank pulley lined up to zero on the indicator? I bet that you only have the one cam out one tooth. The belt probably doesn't line up every revolution. It's called a hunting belt. It might not see marks line up until a certain number of revolutions. I would remove covers and line up the belt and run it to see if you have any valve damage. If not replace belt and install your covers. Good luck.

Kev, I hope you made him sign the JNC waiver of non-liability

_________________

It's ok, it's all sorted, I said he could have 50% stake in JNC magazine. Phew.

_________________

I'LL BE RICH! Muhahahaha

Whats that?
Not rich?
How much?
That much!
Oooookay, so it's not such a good deal after all.

George H, I played that game, it is all of those teeth out.

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

Wait, what? YOU MEAN IT'S NOT MY FAULT?

And I mowed your lawn and repainted your fence for nothing??!!

_________________

Perhaps a stake in some of Kev's Giga Pudding will sweeten the deal.

_________________

Let's not get unreasonable now...

_________________

I borrowed a really small mirror on a stick and with a mini maglite, checked each piston crown and then the valves in each cylinder.
No dings, no shiny metal on metal bits, so the metallic rattle is a bit if a mystery.
A friend of mine has a theory that the timing was so far out that the inlet valve was still slightly open when it fired and the sound was the valve being slapped closed.

Me? No idea. I did find out why the belt slipped though.
I found it when I was changing all this stuff.


It was actually this that was the problem.

Well not this one, this is the new one. The old one on the car was the culprit.
It is the belt tensioner stud.
What the problem was, was not that the tensioner was loose on the stud, it wasn't, but the stud was loose in the block.
This allowed the tensioner to loosen when a big persistant rev was applied and the loose belt skipped. It didn't happen before, on the road, because the car has a DR30 3.9:1 ratio diff. 7000rpm in 2nd gear=100+kph so any long bursts= loss of licence.
Only on the track did it get a rev of sufficient length to cause a problem.
By the way, Kev was the 2nd person out in the car, I was first, he just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.
(There you go lad, you've sweated enough )

So the washup is the engine is back to it's old laggy self with no discernable loss of power, actually it's going harder than ever.
I have to admit though that I'm beginning to really like the transition from no power to everything in the space of 200rpm

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

Thanks for the run today Mr Hooks. I too wish to have a laggy beast such as yours. Guess I'll need a nice big turbo. But for now I must be content with double sided tape. Tried my best on the trip back east to rev out to 7500 but there was no point as I got to 6000 she ran out of breath... I'll be making my own thread now. Can you think of a title for me?

Yeah, she won't rev because she's all choked up.
First step would have to be exhaust I'd say.
2 1/2" from the cat back with a nice straight through muffler.
The standard one is really restricted.
Step 2 is prolly the dump pipe I told you about.
A name?
How about Virgin Miss because she's largely unmolested.

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

Had a little problem last Saturday, a failure to proceed.
Was just cruising down the freeway when the car suddenly went flat then dropped a couple of cylinders.
She ended up getting a lift home on a tilt tray.

So....what is the problem?
I figure it has to be electrics.
Or possibly fuel (damn I'm smart)

I thought the place to start was here

Crank angle sensor.
Turns out I have 4 of these all up. I just picked out the cleanest one.



If that makes no difference, then phase 2 will start here

Igniter. found another 2 of these after a short search.
Looks like all the boxes of junk that came with the car are coming in handy.

I had a thought to look at the ECU too


Good thing I did too. It was just floating around behind the kick panel.
No mounting screws. I'm not impressed.
Still, the HR31 ECU has a set of fault codes which you get through these lights



If I don't get any improvement after this I'll go to fuel filter and pump.

*note the red tinge in that last pic?
I was in a bit of a hurry so instead of switching off the flash I just put my finger over it.
What you are looking at is my blood Muhuhahaha
(just screwing with all you vampires out there)

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.

Ooooookay.
After a fair bit of mucking about, it's not the crank angle sesnsor, or the igniter, or the leads, the coil packs, spark plugs, or injectors.

When I took off the kick panel, the ECU just fell out on the floor.
What it should look like is this


What it actually looks like is this


It's missing the holder bracket, so it's been rattling around bhind there for a few years.
I had a bit of a fish around in the boxes of stuff that came with the car and lo and behold!


The question is...why is it in a box and not in the car?
When the engine was fitted here in Aus, and by a reputable company, how long would it have taken to do the job right and fit the ECU in it's bracket?
Some of the things done on this car just don't make sense.
So now I fit the bracket, a massive 2 minutes hard labour, and try to find the problem that this laziness has caused.

Another worry is it looks like the wiring has been mucked around with too



I will borrow another ECU and narrow down the problem to harness or ECU. I'm pretty sure it's the wiring but it won't hurt to check.

Hooks

_________________
This space intentionally left blank.