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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 9:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:22 am
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Location: Netherlands
Unbelievable!!

Really, the amount of work you put into this car is really amazing!
But if you want to do it right this is the only way.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:51 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
Happy new year to you too jdmrx2, hopefully 2010 is the year you fix up that shell of yours...

Im 1000kms away from my Mazda and all I can think about is finishing off the front end.... Im a bored man with nothing constructive to do :(

Dave I think you're right... There have been a couple of good r100 projects for sale recently around my area but have so far resisted temptation ! Most people will find my taste weird but I much prefer 13B Rx4 coupes over r100's. They are a nice car both size and interior wise and if built right will have that irresistible Japanese muscle car look that will keep those pesky 240K GTRs wishing they had the power to overtake me .... Im also a big fan of the Rx4 cockpit dash and overhead console 8)

I know just the car ! It's been sitting in storage for the past 15 years in a friends garage in a million pieces. Its impossible to transport in its current state so this may become my Sydney car. He just wants it gone, Im planning to take the complete car and parts off his hands once my Rx3 is finished. The Chinese have a one child policy, I have a one project policy. This ensures I finish what I start and dont get side tracked when I get to the hard bits of a project.

I also wouldnt mind a Phoenix Blue 12a Rx3 just like the one Dom used to own that ended up smashed in Adelaide. Where does it end !


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:11 pm 
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gypsy wrote:
Where does it end !


It never does. And if it does, that's when you should worry... :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 11:11 pm 
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I'm with you on the RX-4. I love the '74s but abhor the '75+ ones. By the way, I just noticed the "final update" in the title. I sure hope it ain't... there's still so much to see!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:28 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
Hey Ben... dont worry what I meant was final update for '09. That last update killed me 55 photos, after I cut it down !

The first '10 update hopefully will start with an update of a completed front end repair ready for paint.

Other future updates will include pics of new genuine parts that have been sourced lately ex Japan... ouch ! A TQX semi auto 5 speed gearbox has been sourced and will be sent away for repair early in the new year (will be a normal 5 speed when fitted to car). I've also been trying to nail down my mechanic for long enough to finish some engine modifications before shipping the engine components to Melbourne for assembly. Cleaning up engine parts for re zincing (the goldy colour factory finish). Dummy fitting engine with 5 speed to car to fabricate and mount new gearbox mounts....

I could go on, who needs Top Gear when you have the Mazda section of the JNC website 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:02 pm 
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Good to hear. Can't wait to see what's in store next year!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:19 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
Well hope everyone had a happy new year, it would be nice to see some completed projects in 2010.....

I would have hoped to have been spraying primer and rubbing back the engine bay for some paint but as usual things take longer than anticipated. Who would have thought that replacing part of a sill panel would take so long, it probably would have been faster to replace the entire lot now that I've done most of the hard work. I allowed 3 days to finish off the left and right side, it now looks at though Im going to need 3 days to finish off the right side repairs and another 2 - 3 for the left.

First 2 pics... $1000 worth of new parts, there is another bag not pictured. 2 10a water seal kits, exhaust gaskets, reflectors for rear bar, wheel trims, misc gaskets, corner seals for rotors... and more...
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Trial fitting for welding using panel clamps
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Welding....
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All done, may need a little more cleanup but pretty much complete. Pic 2 is the inside of the repaired sill. Yes, very clean inside, and yes the picture origination is wrong for you Mazda experts ! Cavity will sprayed with wax.
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Refitted door to recheck lines prior to welding pillar to sill.
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More welding....
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Replacement sill corners that will be blasted and primed prior to fitting.
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Welds all dressed, will look nicer when blasted and re-primed.
Image

My last words of advise if your following this thread is dont skimp on safety gear.... off to the eye specialist to have metal fragment removed from the side of my eye which doesnt affect vision. Second trip there in a week.... and yes I do wear goggles, my good goggles needed new lenses so bought a cheap pair to get me by until I replaced the lense.... big mistake, never again ! Im now looking at getting a full face mask to hook up to my fresh air pump for when ever Im grinding. Im still confused as to how and when it got in there, maybe when I was sweeping up and brushed my eyes or possibly through the side of the cheap googles..... I don't know, but 2 trips is enough.. :(

..... need to work out what Ive done wrong before continuing.

Would also like to add that once I finish off the sills that work to the shell will be 70% complete. Once thats done all that remains is the rear quarters and then I have a repaired shell, then we'll start on finishing off the remaining bolt on panels which is also well under way with some of it already complete ready for primer.


Last edited by gypsy on Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:15 am 
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Ouch!!! Wishing you a quick recovery. I've grinded w/o goggles, but maybe I should rethink that. We were under the car?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:11 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
ben wrote:
Ouch!!! Wishing you a quick recovery. I've grinded w/o goggles, but maybe I should rethink that. We were under the car?


Ah Ben what can I say other than you'll regret it if it ever happens to you ! If the metal hits the pupil area of your cornea it will affect your vision because it may scar. It's really not worth the risk.... doesnt matter how awkward it is, all rotary tools require proper protection, you should be picking up the googles before the grinder. Sorry for the lecture :oops:

RestoreMaz wrote:
Ive been there john...when i was an aprentice, i did some grinding ..

I had goggles on but a small fragment made its way into my eye..

It didnt bother me at first, but then it started rusting in my eye, it got all messy and i couldnt see properly..

Had to get the eye numbed, and watch the doctor scrape the metal out of my eye...i could see the whole thing...it was terrible...watching him press down on my eye with a metal scraper thing...


I've worked on cars for years and never had this happen to me before. I had the a piece removed last week while in Sydney. The piece must have been in there for a good 3 weeks. I just had my eye checked out of chance to find a rusty bit of metal in there ! Just like you he anesthetized it and then scraped it out. No big deal, I was lucky that it didnt even go red or become sore after the procedure.

Woke up this morning with the other eye feeling very very mildly grainy... thought nothing of it so pulled all the front suspension from the car so I could hang the front off the garage beam to clean the front underside for priming... the other optomistrist scared me a little so went straight in this morning to have it checked. I thought bloody bannanas not again after they took a look. What are the chances !!

Just like before they anesthetized then removed the piece, excpet this time when the anesthetic wore off I have a very sore cherry red eye, not pretty... I think I look like the devils child :shock: The metal hadnt had time to rust like the previous time so was a quick procedure.

My other half insisted that we drive past the welding shop and pickup a few lenses for the qood googles so did that then chopped up the other ones and put them in the bin. Just so you know if your unlucky and the rust doesnt come out within a week or so they drill the bits out, managed to avoid that otherwise I think I would have probably passed out and died ! Unfortunately they dont knock you out for these proceedures....

So really dont know if its over kill but am looking at getting a full face mask for grinding...what do you do....

Aside from that the car build has slowed for obvious reasons but I'll pickup the pace again soon enough. The new goal is to finish the front and have some colour in the engine bay before summer ends.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:14 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
STOP NOWWWWWWWWWWWWW!

Gypsy your in Melb?!!?!?!

Wanna teach me how to weld? :D :lol:

I really really want to build a HQ or HZ GTS replica for a daily....*sigh*

In the meantime i think ill watch you plug away at the RX3. Cmon, not long to go now....once its in paint, its all downhill

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:55 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
Sorry F3ARED, you'll need to enrol at a local TAFE if your interested in learning to weld. Several TAFEs local colleges run after hours hobby courses. A friend from work just enrolled in one to get on with restoring his early 60's falcon.

They'll teach you how to TIG, MIG, and gas weld. Best of all you get to use quality equipment which gives you a good idea on what to lookout for when your ready to buy your own welder. You'll learn the differences between all the above which is important as well. For whatever reason people talk about TIG like its the bee's knee's of welding. I've seen people achieve extactly the same thing making aluminium bodies using a run of the mill $300 Comet gas welder. All welded to perfection without needing the mega setup. I compare it to the rotary scene where people think they need stud kits and supposed exotic apex seal kits when you build a rotary engine. Unfortunately the internet is the perfect place to spread this propaganda with little truth to most of it..... sorry gone off track. But seriously enrol yourself and learn how to do it properly, its a skill you'll use throughout your life if your a handyman.

If your going to build an old Holden (Barge :) ), I'd go for a HT or HG 2 door... they look so much better if you ask me ! Those old Holdens put Japanese cars to shame when it comes to rust so be prepared for lots of it. I had a look at an old XA Ford Falcon coupe (Mad Max car for you American's) that someone was building at the TAFE. Those things rust practically everywhere. The HT Monaro that was there sometime before wasnt much better... same problems.

Quote:
Cmon, not long to go now....once its in paint, its all downhill


Yes and no to that statement, at that point is where you start to sink serious cash into a build. There's no point in having a perfectly painted shell with crappy parts all over it. In my case bumpers need panel beating and rechroming, stainless trims need to be sent away repaired and polished, complete drivetrain rebuild using replated nuts and bolts, brakes honed and resealed, interior retrimmed, all the correct nuts and bolts need to be sorted, cleaned and zinc coated, suspension rebuild, struts sandblasted and repainted..... the list gets longer and longer.

You are right that a major part of the build will be over.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:42 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Personally i think [from my limited experience and what ive seen] the good old MIG is the most versatile. Id most likely be putting my money down on one of them when i can justify spending the money and actually have a need for it. Need a new job first...

Yeah i know their abit of a barge but i want a V8 next. Ive done 4 cylinders to death [BMW 318i 5spd, S15 200SX, 7 Geminis with varying engine combos from carb fed 2L's to EFI DOHC's to Turbo-EFI conversions on the standard motor]. I cant drive new cars daily [im being serious, they shit me :shock: ] hence Id like a HQ-Z 4door to build as a daily. Nice LS1 should give it poke/decent economy with the oldschool look. That and i like taking something crap and giving it a new lease of life.

Unfortunately, HG/K/T 2doors and likewise HQ-Z 2doors are w-a-y out of my budget. For the cost of getting a rolling shell i can buy a 4door equivilent, do the panel prep, paint it and have some coin left over to do the suspension.

*sigh* slowly slowly....

Quote:
Yes and no to that statement, at that point is where you start to sink serious cash into a build. There's no point in having a perfectly painted shell with crappy parts all over it. In my case bumpers need panel beating and rechroming, stainless trims need to be sent away repaired and polished, complete drivetrain rebuild using replated nuts and bolts, brakes honed and resealed, interior retrimmed, all the correct nuts and bolts need to be sorted, cleaned and zinc coated, suspension rebuild, struts sandblasted and repainted..... the list gets longer and longer.

You are right that a major part of the build will be over.


Trust me i know what that feels like too. My Gemini Coupe has been sitting covered in dust for 6yrs because once i painted it i couldnt bring myself to put anything back on without re-doing it. On the bright side though, once its in colour youll feel alot better as the progress is obvious - no longer will you hear it from your wife [or in my case, ex girlfriends mates and family], and putting the little things on that you CAN put on just feel so much more satisfying.

Back on topic, got any more progress pics? :D

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:58 am 
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gypsy wrote:
I compare it to the rotary scene where people think they need stud kits and supposed exotic apex seal kits when you build a rotary engine.


What apex seals do you recommend?

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How I long for a shit brown wagon.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 2:42 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
F3ARED, if you dont want to touch a 4 cylinder I'd be looking at doing a Datsun 240k into a GTR replica, they are 6 cylinder. There was one for sale not so long ago for around the 5K mark. Much better than a Kingswood ! Your right I look forward to the days its painted. There are more photos and updates but waiting on a panel to arrive to finish the right side off before posting further updates. Hopefully it'll arrive before the end of next week.

Quote:
What apex seals do you recommend?


Hey Ben, for twin dizzy 10a's I'd go for factory mazda 2 piece carbon seals over Mazda single piece carbon seals. It makes for easier starting. For all other Mazda rotary engines (12a, 13b + turbo variants) the factory apex seals I feel are more than adequate for street applications.

If your running high boost or continuous high RPM then Im told ceramic seals from both of the reputable workshops that I've used in the past. I dont know what brands of ceramic apex seals they use as Ive never had a need to buy them. There have been several local companies make seals for Mazda's recently but I have great doubts as to them being better than Mazda seals when you look at the millions of dollars Mazda have spent in development. Basically I believe the factory stuff is fine unless your running you car in top level motorsport. Like any high performance engine it needs to be an entire package to survive the abuse.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 3:05 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
No can do gypsy - a mate of mine has one, helped him build it. As much as i love the car [its f*cking fast for an atmo 6 as an Evo 8 recently found out] its just not for me...

Plus their pretty thin on ground which doesnt help.

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:33 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 570
Location: Australia
Finishing off the right sill........

Dummy fitting and cutting down the new replacement corner.
Image Image

Sandblasted clean prior to fitting
Image Image

Finished off some overhead welding. will be ground back. To get decent welds overhead I turn the power up otherwise there is not enough penetration.... and yes gravity does apply to welds as your welding. The area is blasted clean and sealed as well. Pic 2 finishing off the top triangle piece. Note the little creases in front have been worked out with hammer and dolly, a quick 2minute job, unfortunately I forgot to take after photos.
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Both parts welded and finished off.
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Blasted the kick panel seams and pillar flange and given it a quick prime before packing up.
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Underside shot.... right side pretty much done.
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Will clean up a little better next time as was running out of time, apply the Sikaflex around seams then spray with a 2 part primer. The area will need a smear of filler over the weld to make all look factory. When I say smear I really mean smear for finishing purposes. At the same time I'll also finish off the filler work to the right hand windscreen pillar that was repaired previously. Now that welding to the area is pretty much done will spray the internal sill cavity with wax. The lower edge of the sill is a little wobbly (not crushed) so will rectify this when I have the car mounted on the rotisserie. I have no idea how it got like that, but I can definitely make it look alot better. The repair turned out pretty good considering that someone else has had a go when trying to fix the front end with seam welds. The only way to improve on the repair would be to replace the entire door pillar which Im not prepared to do considering that 1. the area is sound and 2. None of it will be noticable once primed/ sealed etc.

I have decided not to carry out the rust repairs to the right outer box section as I managed to source a brand new panel. What can I say other than these old cars are full of nasty surprises, being an Rx3 coupe has meant it has especially had a hard life. I'll try and get it as best I can. It makes me wonder how the other 3 or so cars I looked at that were just as bad in areas and worse in others ended up. One car that comes to mind is a 10a Rx3 coupe that was for sale at Mascot with rust and crash damage everywhere.... I would have saved that car as well had the seller had been reasonable with the price. it's not my fault that people overpay for badly damaged cars. What are are these people thinking ! I dont have any more to say at this stage other than still a lot of work to do which means more future updates....


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:55 pm 
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:tu:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:46 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Another small update, better than nothing ! Im getting close to spraying the engine bay but still alot more to do. Spraying is the easy bit, everything else leading up to that point is time consuming...

My brand new box panel that fits under the right guard should be arriving this week so will concentrate on doing everything so that there isnt much delay in fitting the panel. Here Im preparing for bushing on the rubber seam sealer to ensure moisture stays out of the joints. There is a photo of the product in a previous update. Its pretty messy stuff but got the hang of it. The only way to do it neatly was to mask.
Image Image

Finished with the seam sealer + a little bog work before spraying the water proof 2 part primer sealer. I smeared a little filler over the bottom of the sill corner that will be visible when the door is opened.
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Mixing the bog should be done gently to avoid pin holes. The area that is filled is shot blasted clean prior to applying. Sorry forgot to take photo of the process !
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Blasting the skirt welds clean, these were coated in a rust proof agent until I was ready to prime... well that time has come... Pic 2 the pillar and front door jamb has been stripped and prep'd ready for priming. Unfortunately I ran out of time so didnt prime that day. Rather than leave the areas in bare metal I sprayed a light coat of etch primer. I'll have to blow out the sills from blasting grit again despite my attempt of sealing them prior to blasting. The stuff goes everywhere, no biggy just needs time to vaccum and blow it all out before spraying cavity wax.
Image Image

A light coat of etch primer where I finished for the day. Pic 2 cleaned out the garage and the car for a little priming. I spent more time cleaning than priming... cleaning up afterwards also took a bit of time. I now know that I need roughly 200 - 250mls of product to prime the area shown (2 coats) using a 1.8mm needle. That means I'll need roughly 700mls of paint for the engine bay (2 coats) using a 1.4mm needle. Better to mix extra than run out half way through !
Image Image

Im happy with the result, the primer went on like glass with lots of gloss. I had to go back inside to check that I picked up the right tin and not the paint as the primer is sort of a similar colour to the paint :) I was surprised by the gloss as I was expecting a matt finish. The product used was Lesonal EP 440 mixed 4:1 with hardener.
Image

Well this almost concludes the right side repairs. I can now fit the panel when it arrives and then spray the right wheel well with paintable white deadener, by the way not the horrible bitumen based sealer that you get from your local auto shop. If the engine bay turns out as good as the primer I'll be very happy. Next I'll be finishing of the left sill repairs, then move on to prep'ing the engine bay...

As Big Kev used to say........I'm excited....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:34 am 
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Don't you have to weld these boxes back in place??
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 6:18 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Yes the box sections will be fitted, they were only primed/ sealed for fitting yesterday. Its impossible to properly prime the inside cavity once they are fitted. Im not sure if you realise but the white colour on the car is sealer not paint ! The panel without holes is a brand new panel that someone sold me, the one I had needed too much work although still repairable.

Image

Will start fitting these panels over the weekend.


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