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 Post subject: 2jzgte KP61 starlet build
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:42 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm
Posts: 13
Location: WV
Ok so I have decided on a motor for this beast and it is now set in stone as 2jzgte being as I just ordered it...

Need a few recommendations:

1. brake upgrade options
2. rear axle recommendations
3. front bumper options that will facilitate an FMIC core

Any info would be appreciated. And before the "it will never happen" posts get started...This swap will be a breeze compared to the other swaps I have done in the past. I own a shop and we do all of our own welding, fab, powdercoating, ect. in house. I have put a lot of motors in a lot of cars that didnt belong there. LOL Stay tuned for what will be a pretty cool build.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:07 am 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
How much power?

If under 500 RWHP, Toyota Pickup/Hilux 8"

If over, 9" Ford.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:23 am 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
Are you going to put the N2 widebody kit on it to facilitate the installation of big tires? The car is going to need a full cage installed in it along with something to tie the front and rear together...I would just consider a QA1/HAL/Strange/Aldan etc. drag strut for up front along with a 5x114 bolt pattern hub and rotor combination so it matches the rear.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:06 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm
Posts: 13
Location: WV
I would like to shoot for 500. I am planning on caging the car and the cage will essentially be the subframe connectors. Thats a great idea with the hilux rear. Can you send me some more info on these struts?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:21 pm 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
Even with the cage, you are still going to need something underneath the unibody to tie the suspension components together.

The type of strut I am talking about is like as below, though, if you are planning on driving it a bunch on the street, go to a heavier rotor.

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This is an early Chevy II/Nova Chris Alston front clip, but similar in idea.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:33 pm 

Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 5:39 pm
Posts: 442
Location: Hayward,Ca
even if you cut the crap out of the firewall is it going to fit in there? like a starlets engine bay is puny! even getting a F22C into seemed like alot of work

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 5:53 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm
Posts: 13
Location: WV
Should be able to fit the motor and trans in the car. The problem lies in the radiator and intercooler. I am going to have a custom radiator no doubt but FMIC I can use one of the cores our shop uses on Subies.

I am going to clearance the firewall a bit to set the engine further back in the car to both help the weight dist and radiator clearance.

Engine will be here the 25th so we shall see. Either way it will be in the car. Im not about to admit to my wife that I blew 2500 on an engine and rear end that I dont need LOL


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:24 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm
Posts: 13
Location: WV
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 Post subject: Hilux 8"
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:48 pm 

Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:04 am
Posts: 10
Location: United States
The old Hilux rearends from around 1973 to 1975 are almost bullitproof... They're easy to re-drill and they will easily handle the 500 Hp range with few if any problems... and, you can find them cheap...


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 Post subject: Re: Hilux 8"
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:42 am 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
CrossRoads wrote:
The old Hilux rearends from around 1973 to 1975 are almost bullitproof... They're easy to re-drill and they will easily handle the 500 Hp range with few if any problems... and, you can find them cheap...


Are you kidding me?

The RN20/25/27 trucks are scarce as hen's teeth here now, most of them went to the wrecker years ago.

They do have a 2-pinion G-type 8.0" diff though. :wink: :tu:


Last edited by BigSteve on Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:56 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Tacoma, WA
Well the 2wd 7.5" rear end out of the mid 80's to mid 90's trucks is an option if you want to try to budget build. I am curious what rear end was in the early 90's v6 2wd trucks though since they still have the 5x114.3 lug pattern.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:40 pm 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
Toyotamike wrote:
Well the 2wd 7.5" rear end out of the mid 80's to mid 90's trucks is an option if you want to try to budget build. I am curious what rear end was in the early 90's v6 2wd trucks though since they still have the 5x114.3 lug pattern.


7.5" (F-type) will break, especially with a sticky tire and over about 300-350 HP.

As far as Toyota diffs go, the one to use would be an 8.0" (G-type). The 4wd NA 4cyl & 2wd 3/4 & 1 ton NA 4cyl trucks have a 2-pinion 8". The 22R-TE & V6 trucks have the 4-pinion 8".


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 Post subject: Nah, you just have to know where to look...
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:07 pm 

Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:04 am
Posts: 10
Location: United States
LOL, I have a 1973 and 2- 1975 rearends layin next to my shop... allong with a complete 1973 Hilux chassis that has a 5M sitting between the frame rails... Not hard to find, you just have to look... :lol:


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 Post subject: 2jzgte KP61 starlet build
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:54 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:19 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Florida
What i did on mine was getting a Mail man Jepp diferenttial is a Dana 44 they come possi from manufacture get some disc brackes , the meassures are like 1/2 inches shorter than stock in each side. NO way you going to break this pupy. remenber you will have to redrill to make new bolt pattern. who ever make differentials can do that for you or a machine shop.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:56 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Tacoma, WA
You can break D44's just go ask the jeep guys lol.

I said the 2wd truck rear ends were a cheap, decent option not an awesome one :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:06 am 

Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:10 am
Posts: 232
Location: Northridge, CA
Toyotamike wrote:
You can break D44's just go ask the jeep guys lol.

I said the 2wd truck rear ends were a cheap, decent option not an awesome one :)


:tu:

8" in 2wd V6 and Turbo trucks too. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:16 am 

Joined: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:33 am
Posts: 5
Location: tacoma
nice


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 1:03 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:02 pm
Posts: 13
Location: WV
Here are some updated pics of the build including the rear widened quarters and the 4 piston brake upgrade in the front. or a full write up check out the build thread here http://www.supramania.com/forums/showth ... p?t=113576


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Ok so it took me a bit longer than I thought to get some progress done on the car. Been doing a ton of body work and stopped for a few days to tackle the front brakes. I was able to fit 11.5 inch rotors off of something...who knows just went though the parts store till I found what I needed and 4 pot calipers from an FD Rx7. The 4 pots fit great with a simple caliper bracket made from 5/16ths steel which keep in mind is thicker than the stock bracket. Cant wait to see how this thing stops now!! Oh yeah I will be grinding the Mazda off of the calipers. Here are some pics!

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Ground off the MAZDA on the calipers and painted them. Finished product looks like this.

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If anybody is searching for Brake upgrades for a KP61 Starlet and comes across this thread I have actual size caliper bracket templates and part numbers for the rotors.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 8:23 am
Posts: 173
Location: Staten Island, NY or Miami, FL
So, you're going 2jz... can keeping it 4-lug?

wow

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1989 Toyota Supra MA70
2JZGE + Turbonetics 60-1


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:46 pm
Posts: 270
Location: Mill Creek, Washington
I think you should move the gas tank filler neck, so you don't have to notch out the rear wheel well


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