Thanks Dave, I now even backup the photos I post so that missing pics can be easily reposted Tried moving everything to photobucket, gave up in the end... was too hard for a tech head like me

It'll be good to see this car finished back in pristine condition after major reconstructive surgery... its been unregistered for close to 18 years, it was recovered out of a paddock in rural Victoria by the previous owners who were attempting to turn it into a drag car. I look forward to the day I can start installing all my new/ restored parts into the shell. I think South Australia and Victoria are a haven for finding these old Jap cars.

You could start a Car Domain site up - good place to store your pic's!!!

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Savanna 10a-PP racer...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2209107

Thanks for the suggestion RE10, I'll look into it..

I was hoping to prime the roof this week but doesnt look like its going to happen. Ive spent some time knocking out a few more dents from the roof but whats now holding me back is the front windscreen channel and lower A pillars. The roof has 2 minor ripples left that Ive got as good as I can get. One coat of polysurfacer should sort it out. Its one of those panels where you spend hours on end chasing your repairs. I'll spend a little more time and that should be it.

To sort out the front windscreen channel I had to sort out through a pile of trims that came with the car, Its a bit of a mixture of parts but I managed to make a complete front set. Unfortunately Im missing one piece for the rear. Pic 2, I think this bit is off a sedan because its slightly longer, the top bit needs to be manoeuvred a little to fit right. I'll do this before sending off for repair/ polishing. Cheaper and easier than tracking a coupe piece !



I'll need to cut it a little at the bottom, aside from that it looks identical to the right side. Pic 2 a bad previous A pilar repair. If you own a Mazda 808 or Rx3 that doesnt have rust in these areas you are extremely lucky. This is a poorly constructed area from Mazda, the innards left the factory in bare steel... get your car wet over 10years and I guarantee it will rust in these spots. Yes, Ive knocked the filler out. Im also checking the profile with the trim... fits OK ! Its too late to check the profile after the body work is completed


This is how the left side corner should fit, shouldnt be hard to sort out. Pic 2, see what I mean... the trim was never going to fit. Its common to see 808's and Rx3's with poor fitting trims which is why people tent to glue them on. Well what do you expect when you load these areas with filler !


Missing the top piece, hoping I can use a sedan piece. Pic 2 marking out to start the repair. You can see the factory brazing and someone else poor repair... brazing and filler....


Scoping out the area. After a bit of looking and poking I realised that the inner A pilar is the same as the outer A pilar with a recess to fit the scuttle panel. The brazing is simply used to join these two parts together. The hole is from me tearing off the old repair. Amazingly the inside of the A Pillar is clean suggesting that it rusted from the outside in... probably due to the stainless trim wearing through the paint work. Pic 2, the repair is 1cm in spots... its suppose to be sheetmetal thin. Using brazing as a repair technique in poor practice in my opinion, brazing requires corrosive paste to etch the metal so that the brazing rod will stick. Chances are that if you use this technique 1. You'll have more rust... 2. The chloride in the brazing paste will affect the paint causing it to bubble with time. To fix this, I'll need to enlarge the hole and repair the lower A Pillar then repair the scuttle panel. The entire area will be blasted and sealed with primer. I think it'll be more time consuming than difficult.


The A pillars need to be repaired right for my trims to fit... not sure how long repairing these areas is going to take but once done the body work will have been completed from the roof down to the bottoms of the pillars. Its going slowly however at least its progressing in the right direction.

Pic 2, I decided that although the surrounding metal was clean, to get the best repair possible I had to remove clean metal as well. Im unpicking part of the scuttle panel to give me more access with the MIG nozzle as well as allowing me to clean up the area and seal it.

This pilar was off a 8/10 808 that had a big rear ender. The pilar has been previously repaired, you can see how the structure is put together. Irrespective of what the outside looks like there is bound to be rust on the inside. I'll be coating with wax or fish oil once my repairs are done. Most of it is surface rust. Pic 2 unpicking the rain channel so that I can use part of the pilar to repair mine.


Carefully dissecting the pillar so that repairs can begin. Its not as bad as it looks, there is only one small section of pitted metal that I'll need to repair. The rest of the metal is clean including inside the pillar (very mild surface rust). Ive removed filler, brazing, and rusty metal from the area. These photos show that the internal A pillar is a continuation of the external pillar (its the same piece of metal with a recess where the scuttle panel is brazed)


I decided that although the surrounding metal was clean, to get the best repair possible I had to remove clean metal as well. Im unpicking part of the scuttle panel to give me more access with the MIG nozzle as well as allowing me to clean up the area and seal it better. Pic 2 Ive finished cutting now to give it a quick blast.


Plugging the hole so I dont fill the pillars with blast grit. Pic 2 doesnt look so bad now. If you look closely blasting revealed an additional 3 holes (you can only see 2) all located around the windscreen channel seat.


All 3 holes welded up with an oxy. After blasting the area has been treated and will be coated with primer prior to welding up. The insides will be treated with wax or fish oil as well. Pic 2 making a template for the replacement metal.


You can clearly see how a little rust can become a big job to fix right. More to follow..........

Phenomenal job, as always

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If I dont keep posting, I'll loose track of photos !

Inside pillar treated and primed. The tempate is traced onto the replacement section. It would have been just as easy to make the section from flat steel if you dont have a pillar around... all you need to do is bend the flat metal sheet over a round pipe to get the profile, then bend the edges. Pic 2 making a template for the right angle section. I couldnt get a good template in one go so did it in 2 parts.


Cut the section out, trial fitting. It took a bit of adjustment to get it right. Pic 2, patch is blasted, treated and sealed... coated with epoxy primer and the flange is coated in zinc for when I plug weld.


Trail fitting again after a few adjustments, and finally tacked into place.


A shot of the repaired pillar, requires a little more with the flap disk but is pretty much done. Once I grind down the rset of the weld bead the join will be pretty much seamless. Yes also a little more welding to be done in the windscreen flange. The MIG nozzle kept hitting the side bits here so was a little hard to weld in this spot. Will tap obstructing area flat and try again. Will get better photos when sun goes down, too much light getting to camera over exposing the shot.


The latest update took the best part of a day.... The entire area will be treated and epoxy primed before I start on scuttle panel to finish the area off. Still got the other side to do as well which isnt as bad but will result in the same amount of work.

I've been learning a lot about bodywork recently . Was there any shrinkage or warping from the heat?

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Haha... good on you Ben, now time to tear apart your project and start a build thread for whatever your working on !

Shrinkage from welding wasnt an issue with this repair. The pilar is made from 2 parts spot welded together. The lower section I havent touched and is made from thick gauge steel, the top section that I repaired I think is also thicker gauge steel than panel steel. The repair is small and has some structural integrity due to its shape and size. The patch was tacked in place to avoid the affects of shrinking prior to running small welds. If I welded it up with an oxy torch or tried to weld it up in one continuous run with the MIG then yes shrinkage would have occurred.

Shrinkage will be more of an issue when I weld the large rear quarter skin repair. My preference is to use an oxy for panel work but in this case due to wanting to retain certain features in the panel I'll be using a MIG. In either case as the panel is welded I need to stop and tap the welded seam out to prevent the panel from warping. The oxy will shrink the reflector lines out of the panel which is partly why the repair is so large. Oxy will shrink and distort metal alot more than a MIG welder. When Oxy welding a panel you always need rear access to the panel. Generally speaking all you really need is an Argon gas MIG for car repair.

That's good to know. I'm a bit surprised to hear the metal was so thick, but whatever works!

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Hey Ben.. just for you I took a closer look. The pillar patch was taken from a spare pillar I had so the gauge is the same as what was on the car. As for the thickness, the top part of the pillar looks to be roughly the same thickness as panel steel, however the lower pillar section which I didnt touch is definitely alot thicker steel. As for the lower pillar steel being very thick, well in Japanese 70's car context yes its a lot thicker, in the context of a 50's American car NO !! Hope that clears things up.

Minor update, nothing too exciting.

Got a little side tracked, decided to see if I could make the number plate holder. The one on my car looks like its been used as a snow plow. I'll have a go at straightening it at the appropriate time but now have the option of replacing it. I dont even want to know what a New Old Stock plate holder would sell for. Knowing Rx3 prices, people would probably want $400+ for one.. Its pretty wavy which you cant see. I quickly made a template and folded it up. You'll notice that there are 4 holes above the holder, 2 bolts are snapped in... not sure yet how Im going to remove them. Also not sure if the second set of holes are factory.


Drilling pilot holes for the hole saw. Whatever you do make sure you clamp it, I think I almost broke my wrist drilling the first hole when the saw grabbed by not clamping it.... I'll never do that again !


Not a bad effort, needs a little more trimming then ready to go should I decide to use it.... best of all its not wavy, rusty or crushed anywhere


Back to the pillar.....

Sort of hoped to have finished off the cowl and have it installed... surprise... the hour or so that was left to finish off the pillar blew out to several hours. Welding the lower windscreen section proved difficult due to access. Got it in the end ! The section has been cleaned up, blasted, treated and sealed.... Ive done as much as I can from the inside but will wax to finish it off once welding is finished.


Last pic is of the sections that I'll use to repair the cowl. The cutoff is full off brazing and bog (you can see some of it). Im thinking of using the fresh corner section that Ive made and welding it up to the cut off. I'll decide once I clean it up and strip out all the filler. If that fails I'll use the curved section that Ive made up.


Hopefully next update the right side will be completed...

Gypsy,

Man, awesome good, so refreshing to see such a thorough job. Have to start sending down my Mazda's for you mate!!!!

Quick question, can you tell me more about the cavity wax. I've heard of it but never used it, sounds like the go though.

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!

Thanks for the deets about the sheetmetal. Definitely a good bit of trivia to know.

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I have enough trouble fixing 1, let alone the 55+ cars you have !

As for cavity wax Im yet to actually use it although here are a couple of pics of what Ive bought for the job. The wax comes in a canister, you can buy it from any good paint shop/ crash repair outlet. I noticed both paint mobile and another large outlet down here sell various brands. I bought this stuff from a City Ford Paint shop in Melbourne, expect to pay around $12 for the wax and $40 for the gun. The nozzle on the gun is used to spray body deadner, stone guard etc. You remove the pipe off the gun and attach the long flexible tube for spraying wax or fish oil. In pic 2 you can see the metal tip has a worm style cutout to get the coverage in all directions. The long tube helps you get to all those hard to get sealed off places. Wax is like fish oil I suppose, I have no idea which of the 2 is better. Your also going to need a compressor for the gun. Hope that helps you out.




My best advise for rust prevention in old cars is dont get them wet ! They are full of water traps and cavities that weren't necessarily primed from the factory. Wax and fish oil can help but arent the ultimate answer for rust prevention in old cars.

More A pillar updates... taking a little longer than anticipated...

Started trimming the replacement cowl section, you can see its not perfect.


Still trimming away, you can see from the backside some old repairs, this is pretty common for these cars... rust and bad repairs !


Pic 1 you can see some of the old repairs, a combination of filler and brazing work. These repairs failed to address the rear side so its rusted up again. Pic 2 seam sealed around the pilllar, this was also done from the factory.


Trial fitting, you'll notice I decided to cut off the windscreen channel rather than attempt to repair it. The replacement corner section that I made will need to be further modified. You can see the differences between old and new. Lots of hours will be spent here. The black marker is where I will start stretching the new corner to shape as the entire upright part of the channel section is a convex shape from forming the corner.


Forming a tuck (which stretches the metal) and is then beaten out. This is done several times until I remove the convex shape from the upright part of the corner channel.


Pic 1 you can see the end starting to flare out. Pic 2, I trying to change the shape of the corner to be squarer.


Hammer Dolly work, the corner is getting squarer...


Th reverse side of the cowl will need to be blasted clean, pic 2 getting there shape wise.


The spare cowl has been trimmed to fit and has been blasted ready for welding of the new corner. Will blast the entire panel once welding the corner is done.


Finally done, stripped back part of the pillar where it will be welded to the cowl. It will be coated in weld through primer. Pic 2, blasted and treated, and rear side sealed... ready for welding.


Welder started playing up while tacking in place. Before it completely died I started to run small welds. Turning out quite good ! Unfortunately couldnt finish it, MIG wire feed electronics died Since the MIG died I thought I'd take a look at the opposite side. No where near as bad, Im hoping the pillar is OK, but wont know until I remove part of the cowl which is still original sheet metal aside from the corner.


My new project fixing some basic electronics... looks like the relay and diode have died. Ive been talking about replacing the MIG for 2 years now.... maybe its time !


Well almost there with the right A pillar, all the hard work is done requires another 30 minutes. This whole exercise has taken alot longer than expected. I really hope the the left side doesnt need the same amount of work. This post might make some of you think next time you see pilar rust in an Rx3

Well here is the only pic for now, managed to finish the right A pillar after fixing the welder. Will need filler to blend between the pillar and the cowl. I sprayed the wax inside the A pillar as well. Will spray more wax from inside the cowl once I strip it clean. There is enough access to treat most of it from inside the cowl through both the scuttle panel and air vents.



If I get time over the weekend I'd like to start on the left pillar. Its obvious that the body work will not be completed by the end of the year. The new goal is to complete all body work on the front end. If all goes well the engine bay may even be painted before the end of the year.

I need to finish the rotisserie before completing the rear end repairs. Waiting on a slack mate to drill 8 holes in his drill press !

This statements is what separates the men from the boys.

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woo hoo Ive finally become a man

Now to the build.... Strange sense of Deja Vu, feels like Ive done this before. Didnt really appear rusty accept for around the edge where the corner trim fits. Ive cut the cowl away, and look whats underneath the original untouched sheet metal. No surprises here ! Not as bad as the other side but will require more work because of the location.


Trimmed away and the replacement section I'll use.... rustier than the actual car Im fixing but better than nothing. What you see inside the pillar is mostly dirt and very very mild surface rust.


The inside is treated and sealed, will apply wax or fish oil once all repairs are done. A cut away of the repalcement section, a bit of a mess around the window channel but will be good once I fix it. Extra corrosion due to previous brazing flux.


The windscreen flange has been cut off the replacement section, you can see all the brass and bog... typical repairs for a car this age, get them in get them out with no love. Pic 2 making the replacement section using templates.


Ready to cut out the replacement skin. Pic 2 sandblasted, treated and ready for welding. The blasting revealed an extra 2 holes that I wouldnt have known about otherwise. Better to find them now than later. Should be able to weld them up, rest of area is OK.


Got sick of pillar work, will get back to it over weekend. Thought I';d finish off both front guards rather than use my NOS ones. Right side has been brought back from a wavy piece of junk, just needs a rust repair.... its now factory straight (sorry need to dig up old pics). Thiu is the replacement left guard that looked ok apart from typical rust and a little bog at the front. After stripping it I think I copped a big fat sausage I cannot believe how much bog is in this guard.... truely amazing.... looks like they went through a 4kg tub... really !


Un%&^$ believable, I'd be the only person in Oz with a pink lawn after i finish stripping it !


Wrapping in glad wrap so stripper doesnt dry out, more bog... close to 8mm thick, someones going for a record !


Needs a bit of straighting, should be OK. Removed inner panel full of rust scale and bog.


Will do rust repairs before ironing out panel. Will be a good panel once done. Has rust down the bottom and also up top behind inner panel that is now removed. Pic 2 patch work.


Cut out old bottom rust repair. Pic 2... bog is about 7mm thick


Inside of guard has been quickly blasted for welding. Peeling back flange for blasting to ensure rust will not cause problems with paint work. Will be treated and sealed...........


to continue next time.........................

All that I can say is WOW!

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round and round and now up and down!

Minor update, I'll be happy when the left pillar is completed. Aiming to finish off the remaining tasks related to the front end swap in the next 2 or 3 weeks. I'll keep this brief since its pretty much a repeat of the right pillar.

Test fitting patch and then tacking into place. Patch has been treated and sealed on reverse side.


Cleaning up the welds, treating and sealing. Flap disk kept catching on lower part so left the lower weld as is. Its an unpanel so doesnt really matter.


Prep'ing the replacement corner, will be blasted, all old repair brazing work cut out and the corner will be reformed using the bit you see. This time I'll cut and weld to get the required curve. Still needs to have the convex shape beaten out just like the other side.



Hoping to move onto more interesting repairs soon....

lovin your work bringing another old girl back to the road

bruce

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bog standard 1977 323 bugeye
1971 alfa 1750 gtv project
1981 Datsun 1200 Ute

*high five* i'm a big fan of dedication but you've taken it to the next level!!! i'll be following your progress keep up the good work for reals!

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Just Another Chinese Kid
86 AE86 Trueno Coupe - Future Classic