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 Post subject: 76 corona issues
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:04 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
hey guys, relatively new to the boards. but ive got a 76 corona 4 door. with the 20r motor.

the issue im having is that ive got no power and it wont get above 70mph.

what i need to know is do the exhaust manifolds have the little damper things in them that open and close.

when i run it, even for a short period. the manifold gets cherry red hot. which is making me think that im not getting all of my exhaust out.

it pushes air though the muffler. but its not alot.

im just curious if any of your cars do that as well, or if theres something more serious i need to be worrying about.

thanks for any advice in advance guys.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
Well the timing being WAY off could cause the hot issue,but i would disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe to check if the muffler is bad,because it could be that as well...It shouldn't be like that at all.And no,no valves in the exhaust.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:21 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
if i set the timing any lower than what it is, it eats gas though.

for that matter, what type of milage should i expect as well? right now its pushing about 11-15 mpg.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
What is the timing set at? Is it points ignition? Compression check?Did you disconnect the exhaust and try it?Carb way rich?

And my 22r in my corona does 20-30mpg with a Weber 32/36 and a pacesetter header..Depending on my mood

:twisted: :twisted:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:44 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
unsure on what the timing is set on. i adjust it via the bolt next to the distributer. its got points. no compression check, i lack the equipment.

i did disconnect the exhaust, didnt do much. although its pretty much free flow anyway (no cat, resonator, etc) muffler is still good too.

as far as teh carb goes. im pretty sure it needs to be rebuilt/replaced.
when you mess with the air screw it doesnt change how it runs.

you can definately feel the tourqe when you shift though. its just like its got no power. and it eats gas like a fat kid eats cake.

maybe the 20r is just that underpowered?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
Naw,My 20r ran just as good,if not better than the 22r in there now...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:14 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
then im not really too sure. ive been playing with it for a few weeks now, and i cant seem to get the balance between power, milage, and top speed.

i think ima have to actually take it to someone and let them do a tune up and see what happens.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:54 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:48 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Colorado USA
your symptoms are classic of a car w/patially plugged exhaust....
take it to COMPETENT exhaust shop for a backpressure test..
it sounds like your catalyst [if your car has one] is starting to melt/
plug up or there is debris in the muffler causing a "clog"..

best of luck...

_________________
Life's to short to build beaters!!


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 Post subject: 20R PROBLEMS
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:46 pm 
MOST LIKELY YOUR CATALITIC CONVERTER IS CLOGED . OPEN THE CONNECTION OR CUT IT AND CHECK HOW IT RUNS , YOU CAN ALSO MAY HEAR A HISSING SOUND FROM THE MUFLER .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
Brett.lakey wrote:
although its pretty much free flow anyway (no cat, resonator, etc) muffler is still good too.



Did you ^^^ guys read his post?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:35 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
i adjusted the timing on it. actually i just set it all the way up. it runs awesome, has decent power. and actually helped the overheating issue.

i need to change out the manifold gasket and get the disconnected piping welded shut.

after that, comes lowering and all that fun stuff.


thanks for the advice guys.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
All the way up?Have a timing light? Maybe the vacuum advance is faulty?You NEED to use a timing light and make sure that the timing advances when the throttle is blipped...The advancer is prolly the problem,I have a good working one here if you are interested as well as i converted to electronic ignition from a 22R(easy,junkyard swap)

I could give you good info on the swap if needed as well..Pretty much just need the dizzy and coil from a 22r and it all basically plugs in,no more points then!

I am pretty sure the advancer IS your problem now..Go out to your car,start it,pull the vacuum line from the intake that goes to the side of the dizzy and suck on it,if the idle doesn't raise up,the advancer is bad.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:12 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
thanks, ill do that.


also, does the manifold from the 22r bolt onto the 20r or should i just go with the pacesetters as well? im wanting to run a dual exhaust set up so if you have any reccomendations on things to use, itd be much appreciated.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:54 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
one more question.

theres a metal tube thats bolted to the top of my manifold, what is this. and is it nessecary on my car?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 5:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
22r/20r exhausts are the same...The intakes are different,and the tube on top of the exhaust manifold is the egr,and you only need it if you have emissions checks.

I like my pacesetter for the money,and the weber works nice as well.

Duals will be hard to do,not much room under there,and you need some backpressure unless you are going turbo,ask me how i know.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:49 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
emmissions checks are nil for me. it helps having people in high places.

if duals are gonna be difficult, ill scrap that idea. and the egr for that matter. i just wasnt sure if it was something incredibly nessecary.

i think ima build the 20-r up some and see what happens.

was gonna do the 20-22 hybrid. but money is kind of an issue.

also, which weber 32-62 do you have, im seeing a couple listed for my car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
32/36DGEV progressive link,The one kit from redline with the right corona linkage.part #WK746..I also have an intake ported for a 20r weber if you are interested.Make sure if you get the weber kit that you use some good sealant between the two spacers(i use yamabond case sealer)because they leak there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:19 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
will the stock intake not work with the weber kit at all? if not, ill probly pick up the ported one from you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:33 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Forty-Fort, PA
stock will work...But it doesnt flow right,you have to machine the two holes into one oval one...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:47 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:46 am
Posts: 44
Location: baton Rouge
ahh! ive got the chg light on now. ive swapped out the battery/alternator i think ive got a short. any ideas?


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