well if anyone knows where i can grab a rebuilt or good working small base 2tc electronic dizzy let me know please

today i ordered paradise racing springs and adjustable seats, and while at the junkyard i discovered two sr5 ae86's, so ill be raping one for the front strut tubes and bigger vented disks up front. some poly bushings for the front are foreseeable as well. i just need to find a reliable site to order them from. oh, and i ordered an exhaust mani gasket cause u can hear it farting into the engine bay!

FWIW, just about every inline 4 cylinder to come out of Japan is 1-3-4-2.

ok i got the timing set, got new plugs, got new dizzy rotor, and the derned things still mis-firing!

ok, big sigh of relief. did a compression test and it was a consistant 150 all the way across the board! the number two and three cylinders appear to not be in use as oil and unburned fuel seems to have collected in those two. im hoping its a used up or dirty bit in the dizzy, so tommorow ill dissasemble and clean it as best i can and if that doesnt do anything ill probably order a remanufactured one off of the 'bay.

or you could just clean your points. thats where i would start.

i have cleaned out the insides of the dizzy once, briefly. so the 78 is for sure a points type dizzy? i think the guy at autozone kept telling my dad its the electrical type or whatever it was he said, and not the points type and that may have been why he sold my dad the wrong dizzy cap. anyways the distributors getting broken into again tommorow for a more detailed scrubbing

78 should already be an electronic distributor. Just look inside. Do you see a little spring looking thing or do you see a black box with a 4 star wheel on the distributor? Every 78 I've ever seen has had an electronic distributor in it.

i have an 1981 3t tt132 corona and its got points type dizzy, i changed the points in it the other day, it was real easy.

my buddys 79te31 is points, my 75te38 is points, and all the ones ive seen in the junk yard are points.

Yes your 75 would be points. But that 79 has definately had the distributor changed then. My 78 SR5 was electronic. Anyway man. Just check your dizzy again. Or better yet. Post up a picture.

ok, so its def. an electronic distributor. the spark point on the magnets has been in contact with the little 4-star sensors as there are grooves worn into it, and the little four-star sensor points have little nicks in them. is this enouph to cause it to not fire on two cylinders? does anyone know where i can pick up a rebuilt electronic distributor for this thing? all i can find on the bay are rebuilt points types, and BRD's rebuilt dizzy costs over a hundred!

Do not buy a BRD distributor!!! Dont' believe me just ask the fellas over on my forum. www.3tcgarage.com

You can just replace the pickup on the distributor, but honestly. Just try and reset the airgap between the pickup and 4 point star. If that doesn't work then maybe a replacement will be required. The star is the pickup for the ignition pulse and if damaged can cause the misfire you're describing. Just go to the junkyard and find one from any Corolla. Like I said before. I've never seen a 78 without a magnetic pickup and most 78-79 you find will have the same distributor. 80-82 have a larger diameter base, but will work if you don't have any mods like sidedraft carbs or a 4 barrel intake. If you have those then you will need to clearance the dist a bit to clear the intake. Anyway good luck with the car. If you really have a hard time finding a replacement then post up a wanted add at the Garage. Most of us have spare parts lying around. I would offer you one, but the last one I had I gave to a friend of mine. So I have nothing to offer right now.

cool, thanks. i signed up for 3tcgarage now ive just got to be approved. how would i go about pulling off the little star wheel thing? does the whole shaft come out or do i just yank it off with force? i closed the gap significantly and while the car ran stronger, the two cylinders did not fire.

ok, i believe i got all four cylinders running. i did a little cutting on the new cap my dad bought that didnt fit and adjusted the spark gap in the distributor, and there was carbon on the two plugs that werent working before. i cleaned them off and ran it some more and same thing, and there appears to be an ark on all four corners inside the dizzy cap. it also idles all on its own now, but there is a new noise. it constantly has a high-pitch squeeling noise, like when a car with a timing belt needs a new one. it is a constant tone even with revs, and sounds loudest from under the car, near the oil pan/ downpipe area. any ideas on what this could be now? i didnt notice it before, and its audible in the cabin as well.

Check your fan belt first. The timing chain will make a growling kind of sound if it was bad. It would definately not be high pitched. I'll approve your account as soon as I'm done posting this. If you can drive the car to Rancho Cucamonga. I'll be more then willing to help you out with it.

Robert

thanks for the offer! right now im just trying to get it to the point where i can DD it around town. adjusting the carb a little bit now, as it was tuned very rich. so is the screw on the right the idle screw or mixure screw? and vise versa for the screw on the left? should the exhaust gasses feel cooler or hotter coming out, because ive notice a difference when messing with the two screws. a bit of lithium grease worked into the fan belts up front and a couple laps around the block seemed to quiet it up, tho its warmed up so once it cools off ill see if they are still gone. thanks! Nick H.

Don't know what your right or left is. Plus it's been a while since I've looked at a 3t stock carb. But easiest way to tune a carb is with a vacuum guage. You can get one from Autozone or Sears for about 25bucks. Best money you'll ever spend when dealing with a carb'd motor. After you get the motor in the green on the guage. Then just adjust the carb to where it comes off idle nice and responsive. You should be able to snap the throttle off idle with no bog or intial gulp of air from the motor. Hopefully that makes sense. When it's all said and done the car should idle as smooth as glass and rev almost instantly. Takes a little playing with the screws, but you'll get it. I like to run a little more timing in my cars too. They really repond well to a few extra degrees of initial timing. If I'm not mistaken the tag calls fro 8 but I usually run them at 12 to 13. Something like that.

allright, well i just ordered a set of paradise racing coilovers 250lb springs for the front so im going to need to match them with a good set of shocks. im wondering if the aw11 mr2 rear shocks will fit into the stock te31 strut housings?

ok new problem, well its been doin this but now its the focal point. idles fine when i cold start it but after temp warms up to where it shold be, it just wants to die on me! drives fine and all, but i come to a stop, sputter sputter die... and with the dreaded click starting problem, its no fun dying and not being able to start it right up again any suggestions?