I have this 77 Accord and I want to swap in a newer motor but I don't know much about cars to be honest. Any suggestions?

Would something like this work?
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_ ... rod_id=716

Or, should I just rebuild the CVCC engine in it? Answer the poll!

i don't know the technical engine details but i think the most important question is, "what is your goal with the car?".

is your CVCC in need of a major rebuilt or would a simple carb upgrade have it on the road again?

i think the H22 is a bit much for the accord. your socks will be flying off. hahah! it's also really heavy so you're better off going with a B-series.

Honestly I'd like to swap it for something pretty speedy. It looks like it has enough room, and I'm sick of 68hp and a manual choke. It would definitely need a complete rebuild. I put a rebuilt carb in it after it died once, and it's running shitty again. It needs rotars and struts and a couple things, and I'd like to do it all at once with some saved cash, paint it a classic color later and find the original jdm emblems and stuff. My socks flying off is ideal, and the cars pretty light as it is, like 2,000 pounds, so weight isn't a huge concern. Hell, if I didn't want to keep it jdm I would put the biggest thing I could fit in it that was in the $2000 range.

+1 : What's your goal ?
Will you customize your car ? Color, weight, suspensions, ...
Or you like a lot your car like this now ?

For me, FULL STOCK !!!
Rebuilt this engine !

Or make a "sleeper"...

First, more pictures:






The heater core blew, so now there's just a towel in the front, ha.

I would definitely pick sleeper . It'd be sweet if it looked all original from the outside and inside, but had more speed than the stock weener engines, although they get iiiincredible gas mileage. I'll eventually tune the engine I put in it, but that will come later for sure. I just want to be able to drive the thing, it lagggggs hard. I live in the sierra nevada's by lake tahoe, but it won't even make it up the mountain to the lake.

Color: a metalic, pearly classic green:


Eventually I will change the seats back to the original color. It'll just look funny for a while with the green outside and red inside.

Also, with the emblems, I cannot find the originals for the life of me. Any help on that would be great. I havvvvve to have the originals.

The only thing I don't know anything about it engine types and all that jazz. Fast is ideal, tunable is ideal, and cost effective is ideal.

For me, I am building an EL/EK hybrid to go into my 77' to replace the still running good but starting to smoke original EF1 with 200K! I chose this due to the fact I will get better performance and still be able to easily smog it due to the fact the EL/EK looks just like the original engine. I would have liked to do a B series swap, but in CA, I would have had to install ALL the emission equipment from that year car onto the 77' and then take it to the referee to be certified. At the time, I did not want to deal with all that. In the end, it may have been a better option as original replacement parts are difficult to find (especially valve train stuff) and performance parts are basically nonexistant. Good luck with whichever route you choose. Just keep it on the road.

Mark

I would say go with a D16A1 or ZC, their small, have plenty of power, simple , and good looking.

Here is a reference chart for basically every honda engine.

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Andrew Thornton
71' Honda n600, 87' Acura Integra, 64' Honda C102, 88' Honda Hawk GT

needs more K-series.

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1989 Toyota Supra MA70
2JZGE + Turbonetics 60-1

If you can find one, the JDM B20A from the 86-89 Accord or 85-87 Prelude is going to be the most powerful engine that shares a similar mount layout with your car. It's a 160hp motor, and you'll be able to at least take the front and drivers side mount brackets off of your EK and bolt them onto the B20A, the rear mount will need some slight modification to work, but not a ton, I wouldn't imagine. It's not an easy engine to source though, and parts for it are not all readily available in the US as I'm finding.

A good, cheap way to get power would be to put an A20A3 in it. It starts at 120ish horsepower, but it also shares the same mount layout and would be super easy to bolt in with minor mount bracket modifications. It's a closed-deck, cast iron block like the one in your car, and its well known for holding quite a lot of boost. Even just a stock A20 would make your car haul some serious ass. The nice thing about them is that they are cheap, and there are tons of them around, and most parts are easily attainable. They can be built fairly cheaply to put down 160whp with some compression bump, minor headwork, and if you go EFI, then you'll need a good tune.

The problem you're going to run into with ANY motor in that car is going to be the forward facing exhaust. On your engine, the exhaust comes off the back of the block, so clearance between the front of the block, and the front crossmember on the car is very tight. There's really no room to to even get the exhaust through there. So you'll either have to build a custom front crossmember, or run a civic half-size radiator and build a custom header that extends out and around the front crossmember.

Whatever way you decide to go, good luck and keep us updated! Love your car!

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1981 Accord Hatch (1stGen) - 1984 Accord Sedan (2ndGen)

even with a custom header, no room to clear that crossmember? I've got an 80 that I've wanted to do that on as well. I just wasn't sure how safe a reworked crossmember would be.

A member on Preludepower.com by the name of CraigB did a B18A swap out of a 2nd gen integra in his '81 prelude. The EK1 is almost 99% identical to the accord so it makes you wonder. I know he created custom brackets for it but was able to use I believe the factory front torsion rod on the prelude. Said he got it running and only had problems of course with the wiring and shift linkage.

My personal opinion would be a d16y8 swap out of a 96-00 civic ex. Their small, good torque (for the size) and take up less room than a DOHC. But than again, it all depends on two factors. Money and Time. Anything is possible my friend. My dreams of a RWD 1st Gen prelude using a F23 from an S2000 and rear suspension from a CRV is still in my head.