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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 176
Location: UK
It's a gamble, but if it pays off, it'll be well worth it!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 176
Location: UK
Was sick of seeing it sat around doing nothing, so I decided to move it around for a bit. The starter motor isn't too well and needs replacing, however it does catch eventually. Stuck a jump start pack on it and it caught on about the 3rd go, stalled it on the way out as most of the exhaust is missing, but the pack was connected again and it fired up once more. Still runs and drives nice, at least until I turned the lights on, stalling it out completely. I then completely drained the jump pack after about 100 goes attempting to start it again. Boo!

So it was shoved back to where it was and the starter motor was later replaced with a cheap new old stock one I'd got ages ago. I left this in the hands of an actual mechanic as I couldn't be bothered - good job I did as it was meant to be quite a task. Still, it's done now.

Then some work was done undoing the shabby appearance. The doors had that weird black glue on where the rubbing strips once were and it has been bothering me for ages. I've had little success with anything I've tried. However, I decided that since there were a few brush painted bits in the general area I may as well just get the sandpaper out and repaint the door bottoms entirely. Whilst I was feeling motivated, I also sanded down the A-Pillar to finally dispatch some baked-on duct tape.

Image

As you can also see I also took a wheel off and repainted it, only done with a combination of sandpaper, filler primer, wheel silver and masking tape but I'm happy enough with it, put the time in and it came out nice enough. Note the addition of a centre cap - they're actually for a MK1 RX-7 but they fit and look nice, sourced from the US quite cheaply. Only 4 to go (can't forget the spare).

Still a way to go yet - that's just one side and after that the rear quarter bottoms require welding up and an entire exhaust system to be bought and fitted before it goes anywhere near an MOT certificate. Then more fun things can be done like painting/fitting the aforementioned nosecone (which is in the back with some other nice bits).

Despite all the things left to do, I've got a good feeling about this car, it feels quite tight mechanically and it is fairly low mileage. Just got to keep at it, then I can reap the rewards I guess.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:54 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:14 am
Posts: 61
Location: Brisbane Australia
good to see another 323 being saved, nice one my man

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:37 am 

Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 4
Location: UK
Hi there,

I also own a 323 wagon (1981) and was looking to lower it. How are you planning to lower the front suspension on yours? I know you need lowering blocks for the rear but i'm not sure where to get lowered springs for the front in the UK?

Any info you've found out or websites you could point me in the direction of would be helpful as our cars are pretty rare over here!

Cheers, James.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 12:36 pm 

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:32 am
Posts: 24
Location: Wild West Wales
James wrote:
i'm not sure where to get lowered springs for the front in the UK?


Years ago I had a hatchback version of the 323 and seem to remember using off the shelf springs that were meant to be for a mark 1 or 2 escort.

I think they're available in a range of lengths and ratings - I was doing rallies at the time and using 180 lbs which may be a bit too much for you :?

Hope this helps :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:19 am 

Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 4
Location: UK
Cheers for the tip, i will have a look into that, might be trial and error with the ride height but i've got the old springs to compare them to.

Will be handy if they do fit as i dont really want to chop the old springs if i can help it,

Cheers, James.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 176
Location: UK
I've heard Escort springs fit too but I've not really investigated it properly at this stage. Will post up if I hear anything for sure.

Now here's a question for the Mazda 323 maniacs - I'm trying to trace a small leak into the interior which comes from behind the dashboard. Suspect it could be the windscreen seal or maybe the heater matrix, but before I do anything daft, is there anything common on this model that causes this sort of behaviour? I don't want to start doing major work on it only to find that there's a well-known leaf-trap in a drainage channel etc.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:39 am 

Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 4
Location: UK
Snap! i have the same leak, water comeing in through the drivers footwell?. I think mines leaking from the bottom of the windsceen as i put a hose on it and the water started to come through quite bad, so i've used some sealant round the bottom of the windscreen but i haven't had a chance to check on it to see if it worked. I will post back if it seems to have solved the problem.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 176
Location: UK
Let's have a look at my rear quarter bottoms. This is what happens when you "treat" rust by lashing a load of paint/underseal over it and leaving it for years:
Image
Image

Nice! Time to apply some metal to this area I think.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:45 am
Posts: 698
Location: indonesia
here's the indonesian version of your car..
70% of the parts are locally made..
Image
these wagon comes with the 1400cc TC engine
electric power steering and AC comes as standard
the model's production stopped on 1997

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