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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:00 pm 
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Location: LA
This thing is gonna be insane!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 1:42 pm 
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Location: LaPine, or
sweet z man your doing what i would want to do if i ever get a z only think i dont like are the big rims but they even look good keep it up man

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Plenty of work to go,

Panel
Paint
Electrical/ECU install
Interior
ECU Tuning and brake/suspension setup
Cert
WOF/REGO

more or less...perhaps not much considering the journey so far...

Anyways,

Tried the lock to lock with the steering using the MR2 PS rack. Looks like 2.8-ish turns of the 2nd hand Momo wheel purchased off Ebay.au a while back. I will measure up the angles of the wheel at full lock, something the drift crowd increase for greater tail out action.


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More recently, after a chat with Ricky Cooper (races a nice L series NA 240z in Auckland), I was keen to have a look at some fibreglass parts for Gaijin for the two usual reasons;

- lose some easy pounds
- save money at the panel beater

but also picked up the great feature of (in the case of the front gaurds) moving the arch 75mm further forward, which will allow much greater castor angles.
This will give me more camber thru steering change, and a greater self centering effect with the steering.
V8 supercar will run 8 deg+ roughly (did 8 years ago when I turned the spanners for Team Kiwi).

The current castor arms may not be long enough for this, but this is an easy cut/remake/TIG up operation.

Current rough install position a little way out.
Also picked up a bonnet, which is a light (for glass) unit, covers the inspection panel, has mounts included.

Headlight buckets are moulded into the gaurd, metal originals are on Trademe. Overseas shipping not a worry

Also check my other listings for more S30 bits


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PM me for manufacturer of these fibreglass parts inc. bonnet and other body parts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:52 pm 
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Gaijin wrote:
also picked up the great feature of (in the case of the front gaurds) moving the arch 75mm further forward, which will allow much greater castor angles...


Wow, I wish someone made something like these for the 1200. Would make life a lot easier... :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Anyways, after so much toying around, its time the car started going hammer and tongs with the hammer and dollys. Picked up thanks to John.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Right,

the car sits at the next venue, on the outskirts of Auckland where the panel beatin' rates are much less than the usual joints, not to mention their outstanding skills with sheet metal, raging enthusiasim etc etc.

Remembered why I waited for ages to get the car in (mostly my fault), once I walked back in with the car, top crew from first and second impressions. Enjoyed checking out the other classics? and reviewing their butt welding, no added rod/metal. = little to no body filler used.

Lets see what they can manage with this old girl





The fuel rail didnt fit the standard er34 squirters in, so holes machined out, and new collars made to suit the new bosch 6 hole 600cc injectors
er34 squirters sold on, good time for a quick + (crap) pic.

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A few oldies also hanging about.
Looks like lots of $ spent on these.

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Front gaurds dont have any internal support nearest the door. There is still the existing panel closer to the front wheel.
Once together & bolted on we can see if its too flimsy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
.


There aint no panel beatin' starting until the cars ride height is set front and rear.

As a requriement for the street, min. 100mm clearance is required.

This was my starter, front and rear lowest parts hanging off the car.

Rear oval superflow type muffler looks ok. Sure takes up some height....

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Take the rear struts out, RR tire sitting on the roughly cut gaurd.
LR doing same to stock inner gaurd.



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Clearance about right.

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Heaps of suspension geometry going on.

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Note the wee chop into the chassis to ensure max lowering efforts, and no chassis hitting suspension parts.


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Take into account sag and we have penty of suspension travel available.
better remember the dimensions next time....

speaking of a travel limiting device,


Rear struts, B4.s revalved with 300lb spring

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For the front, oilpan the lowest (ergh, this wont last long , better thing about a gaurd/sheild?).

Wound the front up, using the full strut section moving out of the strut housing, keeping the overall travel the same.

I finished with 110mm ground clearance to the under side of the oil pans lowest point.
Sus arms are horizontal roughly eyeing.


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To sort the castor situ with wheel lagging in the gaurd space, dug these japanese castor arms/tension rod from Import monster a while back, when it was affordable with rates.
Nice quality stuff, plenty of beef.

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They offer a little more total length than the modified stocker.


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It still isnt enough. Will get the stock modd'd ones lengthened again.

Wheel further forward, but lets keep going.

It would probably be prudent to get a hold of a castor/camber gauge, would make life easier.

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Hello,

a change of face?

frog face


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Its got a face finally - yeah!

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Its all stock I promise. Cut and paste exercise required, as gaurd is 75mm north, Gnose outta place. Red line is average effort to show where the cuts are.

Cut bumper out and move forward to keep the same distance to the over-fenders as a stock zg front.
Cut the lower section of the gnose to form to new gaurd
Cut the newf.glass headlight cones out, blend with gnose headlight thingies. Butcher!
Make a re-inforcement to the chopped gaurd to mount to gnose around the headlight areas.

Make it all look factory fresh and un-molested?
Hope the hammer/dolliers are more skilled than this jpg editer.....



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
My day job has stepped up so the car has been lonely.
better post something - keep the thread alive eh...

Mike again comes to the rescue for the new light covers. They are mint. Perfect.
Let the panelbeater make them fit nice.

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Blame the truck body for taking time - worked on by the customer, then brougt back to the shop, jumping the queue.

RUDE !

Never mind. Once the truck cab is out, Im up.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:30 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Lets check my 'off the cuff' front spring rate choice last year.....
Arm chair engineering

Motion ratio at the front is not far off standard, even with lengthened arms +50mm roughly.

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Spring rate, as a function of motion ratio, corner weight and desired suspension frequency.

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Could back up this pile of gobbledegook by pulling out the strut inserts and measuring the natural frequency doing the bounce test. This would include additions of bush and movement frictions. Google has the answers as usual.

Corner weights are guessing within a range, as is suspension frequency.

Looks like the current 250lb springs will be too SOFT, giving lower frequencies than desired. Deny the Mush!

Harden up bro


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:43 pm 

Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 3:18 pm
Posts: 226
Location: fontana, CA
bro, first of all, your s30 is sick and twisted!! :twisted:
i'm loving the build. i'll be waiting for more progress of your handy work.

:tu:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Damm links.

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thanks for the support.

yes.
insane
all good.

power nuffin' without control

this is when the project will get a little smarter.
soon


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 2:09 am 

Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:37 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
any update bro? cant wait to see this beast day by day...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 2:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Reneeray wrote:
any update bro? cant wait to see this beast day by day...


Hey man, me too!

Stuck in hospital for a few more weeks,

have got a NOS 150hp kit,

Panel beaters about ready to start finally.

Will update as soon as Im released!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Pardon the delay, the panelman has begun some work.

Its been about 1.5 weeks work for 1.5 men roughly so far.

In no specific order.
Butt welded everywhere, minimal filler rod used - (oxy acetylene)

60% metal work complete.
Few holes to recover in places, otherwise Im happy.


Car was treated with Tectyl?, spray on goo stuff to help minimise rust , from new.
It looks like rust , on the inside of panels, but its just this tectyl stuff. OK?
Welder could tell, weld bead wouldnt look like that, welding to rust alright...already



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Enough of the boring rusty 'looking' stuff,

Arches at the rear. Folded lip flat, and butt welded again, so that the inner arch comes flat. gives the tire more clearance. if the chassis hits (not gonna due to bumpstops etc) the tire wont be hit with a sharp edge of the gaurd. ie. no crazy high speed blowouts from this scenario.



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One side of the (metal) car almost complete,


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The rear end is looking 50% done.
Ill get the sparky to wire up a solenoid for the hatch release/lock.


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Left side has started, but requires the fundamentals.
Nice section constructions around the pillar. Nice butt welding on the door.


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My excuse for lateness, forgive me

Cancers, chemos, transplant and heart issues.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 6:12 am 

Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:03 am
Posts: 26
Location: Australia
I've only just discovered this thread and I can't wait to see the car come out of the panel shop. I went thru the whole thread hoping by the time I got to page 5 it would be finnished so I could see the end result.
Best of luck with the car and your health.
Will stay tuned to see her finnished hopefully soon.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
The panel beater fellow is a pushy bugger, so its off for another epic drive to hand over parts that are requried to help work on the next areas.

Thanks to Glenn for the gaurds, these will help take moulds for the front end work which will start next week. After a quick review today, it looks like as much time as the tin work has taken. ie. Quite a bit....

Ill ecplain over the next few weeks.




Here's a better pic of something I mentioned a while back talking suspension,
If the rear end still feels too mushy with softer tires at the track, the hard bushes you see may get replaced - rose jointed, etc.


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Indicator hole filled up. No warts here.

Hatch likewise with opening device.

Dove tail hatch area all done & sealed

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Left hand side continues, almost there. Rear quarter replacement panel originally from Tabco, some USA outit. Not much went back on the car.

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The front pillar needed a bit of love, so love applied.


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Few other parts/areas furthered


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:22 pm 
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Looking very nice. 8)

Can't wait to see it finished!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:34 pm
Posts: 131
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
wow dude, its all looking so nice.
where abouts are you getting your pannel work done?
i've gotta find someone like that down here in chch to tidy my datsun up next year.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:32 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Auckland
Yo Cheese, spend a few fridays or saturday$s cruising a few shops and ask to see their work, after a handful of shops, its easy too see who are decent, at a decent price. Im paying $45 up the top end of the country, but its way outta town....


Almost forgot about this thing down south after 3 weeks off.
how very refreshing!

Last time I talked to me man John, he said "we'll finish the metal work, then I want bills paid"

Fair enough.
Either that or some of the 40k odd persons following these threads globally start sending their cars to this guy...virtually immediatly

Hence why the work finishes clearly where the metal stops.
On the outside at least.

Havent told him about a few minor things to chop later....

seat mounts, bonnet struts (eh Mike), holes Ive made in the engine bay etc etc.....

All good so far.


right side still ok, just needs the gas flap keyhole welded up

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Note that window chrome & SS into position. Had to move a couple mounting holes for the rear quarter glass windows, as cage fouled chances of getting a screw in......unles your hooked up? Save it.


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Few other issues at the rear.Did some costing of rear metal bar, take one dull but straight unit, de-chrome, weld up all exisitng holes and seams, straighten/smooth, re-chrome etc = $$$$

vs


buy new glass bar and paint a colour
and sell old dull bar.

no contest. Plus minus many kgs, pity its the wrong end eh.

I can break many glass bar before asking for mr dull chrome back.
Chrome could always be thrown back on later if I have a spare wadss of cash.









This pic is to note. What is going on here. Surley a clean body cant be painted with a skin looking like the close up of the moons surface?

BEADBLAST approaching. A new step added to the build. Argh well....I might get back 1/20th of it upon sale price.....
Not me talking


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Panle beating getting a flash boring, time to spice things up a little I reckon

RSVP


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