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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:58 pm 
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datsunfreak wrote:
If only it were in English... :P


What do you need to know? Basically you want the Y62,790 kit for L4, and you also need the Y5,830 dizzy shaft too (but I can get you a Nissan part number for that).

Here's the installation instructions. The layout for the basic Y62,790 kit is at the bottom of the page. The top of the page covers the additional Y68,250 MDI module (which I think is like an MSD 6AL)
Image

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:02 pm 
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Well, at $1300+ USD for both halves I think it's probably out of the question.

No worries, though. :P


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:32 am 
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Aagh! :oops: Bloody one post rule!! I'll be back in a sec Kev, don't go away!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:32 am 
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C'marn Kev!!! Get ya finger out!!........we're waitin' :mrgreen:
.......with our stock little Nissan tachos....... :P

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:10 am 
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Ahaha....well don't you worry, I'll make it to a Hakosuka Owners Club meeting one of these days :D

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:04 am 
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kev wrote:
datsunfreak wrote:
If only it were in English... :P


What do you need to know? Basically you want the Y62,790 kit for L4, and you also need the Y5,830 dizzy shaft too (but I can get you a Nissan part number for that).

Here's the installation instructions. The layout for the basic Y62,790 kit is at the bottom of the page. The top of the page covers the additional Y68,250 MDI module (which I think is like an MSD 6AL)
Image


Kev,

if you have it in a higher resolution ( 600 dpi would be perfect, 300 dpi is okay). I will complete translate it for you.

Daniel

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Current cars:
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Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:54 am 

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Location: Ontario, Canada
All of us newer skyline owners (R32 and up, probably really R30 and up) are super jealous of how easy it is for you to change your oil pump, when it fails in an R32 it's an engine-out job.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:53 am 
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Good news and not-so-good news...

First the easy stuff. One of the things I wanted to do while the car was up on stands was to replace the VR Commodore strut tops with Cusco camber tops. The main reason was that the GM tops were very thick, and so the 15mm lower profile of the Cusco plates would mean that the front would be lowered 15mm automatically, without any sacrifice of shock travel.
Image

The Cusco plates are actually for the GC10 Skyline, so they fit perfectly, but they don't fit the shocks on the car....the issue is that the Cusco tops are for shocks with an M12 thread on the shaft, whereas the Z31 300ZX Konis on my car have an M14 thread.
Image

Pretty much everything on the Hako is Datto 510-sized, so it makes sense that at some point Nissan went up a size. It shouldn't be a huge drama to sort this out however, I'm sure that all I have to do is find some parts off a Silvia Cusco camber top and that should be compatible with the Z31 Konis and then I should be able to retrofit everything together with the Hako camber tops and fit them to the car. But at least I could I fit up the restored strut tower brace and it looks very nice.
Image

But for the time being the issue is the ignition, and getting the car going with the Kameari distributor kit. First I have to fit the later-style dizzy/oil pump driveshaft.
Image

Then you line up the dot on the shaft with the mark on the oil pump. Since the dizzy is geared to the crank you have to get this bit right, or the dizzy will be timed wrong.
Image

The oil pump is filled with oil (so that the pump gears aren't grabbing air when you start up) and then you carefully insert the whole lot into the bottom of the engine.
Image

It takes a few goes but eventually you get the position of the dizzy shaft right, which is to say that the 'flat' of the shaft points to 11.25 o'clock.
Image

...which should point the rotor to fire #1 cylinder.
Image

Looks great! But no start! I took out one of the spark plugs and rested it on the rocker cover while I cranked the engine, and it definitely isn't getting any sparks. The coil is getting juice though, and I also checked the Kameari loom for continuity and it's fine. The Kameari module isn't getting hot or anything and there isn't any burning smell...
Image

The only thing I did before fitting up the new ignition system was clean up some redundant wiring that was for the original stock points/ballast resistor setup. I'm pretty sure I didn't disturb anything but I think that's the next thing to check. From the looks of it, there was some hacking about of the wiring loom when the ignition was converted from points to electronic in Japan, but the thing is...if it's hacked about, then how come it worked with the previous system? Strange...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:08 am 
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MrHijet wrote:
Kev,

if you have it in a higher resolution ( 600 dpi would be perfect, 300 dpi is okay). I will complete translate it for you.

Daniel

Hi Daniel

In light of recent events :D Can I take up your very kind offer of a translation of the instructions? :)

This is the wiring diagram. I got a Japanese friend to translate the wiring colours, but it seemed quite simple. Red goes to +ve on the coil, green goes to -ve on coil, and black goes to ground. That's how I wired it up tonight...
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m255 ... f6bf03.jpg

This is page 2 of the wiring instructions. The bottom of the page is not relavent, it's how to wire up the optional Multispark module (which I didn't get). But the top of the page does seem to say something about the resistor that is mounted on the back of the ignition box?
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m255 ... e6e039.jpg

I'd be interested to know what this says...I think it's a description of the stock Hako wiring. Since mine was converted to electronic and was hacked up a bit in Japan, I don't really know what it's meant to look like :D
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m255 ... 5c0d47.jpg

I think this is just recommendations on tuning, rather than installation:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m255 ... f444d4.jpg

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:51 am 
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Hi Kev,

I will need some time for it, but I will post it here, when I am getting forward.

Daniel

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Current cars:
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Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:36 pm 
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Kev,

Could you be so kind and scan the documents even in higher Resolution ? The current resolution (96 dpi) is a bit too grainy.

I am at around half of Page1 now, but it getting tough now as I can't detect all characters.

You can send them to dflinkmann /at/ gmx.de

Daniel

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Current cars:
Daihatsu Hijet S85
Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:43 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 310
Location: Melbourne, Australia
When you moved the ballast resistor, you did run that wire to the positive side of the coil yes?

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:39 pm 
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F3ARED wrote:
When you moved the ballast resistor, you did run that wire to the positive side of the coil yes?

The car came with an electronic ignition conversion from Japan (using what I think are Skyline Japan bits).

So the ballast resistor was already removed. According to the wiring diagram, the "run" +ve wire (that would have gone into the ballast resistor) is now on the +ve terminal on the coil full time.

The 2 wires for the "start" +ve circuit are just joined together and taped up, and the old -ve wire from coil to points dizzy is just taped up. Also the condensor (or what I think is the condensor wire) is just disconnected.

The "run" wire to the coil is hot when the ignition is on...I dunno if it's hot during cranking, but I assume so since the previous setup was hooked up like this and started just fine.

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:23 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Quote:
So the ballast resistor was already removed. According to the wiring diagram, the "run" +ve wire (that would have gone into the ballast resistor) is now on the +ve terminal on the coil full time.


Yeah that bits fine - it was something i overlooked when i did the DOHC conversion into my Gemini, and the cause of many a head scratching moment.

Quote:
The 2 wires for the "start" +ve circuit are just joined together and taped up, and the old -ve wire from coil to points dizzy is just taped up. Also the condensor (or what I think is the condensor wire) is just disconnected.


Im assuming the start wires are taped together AND connected to the coil?

Also, what coil are you using? It might not be suitable [long shot i know]. Try something like a Bosch EFI coil [RRP $50 @ autobarn]

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:50 pm 
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F3ARED wrote:
Quote:
The 2 wires for the "start" +ve circuit are just joined together and taped up, and the old -ve wire from coil to points dizzy is just taped up. Also the condensor (or what I think is the condensor wire) is just disconnected.


Im assuming the start wires are taped together AND connected to the coil?

Also, what coil are you using? It might not be suitable [long shot i know]. Try something like a Bosch EFI coil [RRP $50 @ autobarn]


No, they are not, actually. The coil gets juice from the "run" wire exclusively. The "start" wires were joined together and taped out of the way and not connected to the coil at all. It did occur to me that maybe the "run" wire isn't hot when cranking, but then again how come it used to start just fine when the old ignition was wired up exactly the same way?

Just the same, I'm going to test it tonite: see if the run wire's juice somehow gets interrupted during cranking, and then if so then maybe I should tee a wire from the "start" wires to the +ve terminal on the coil. Also I should try adding more earths to the block, just in case that's the issue.

The coil is an MSD Blaster3 by the way, although I still have the Nissan coil I can reinstall.

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:54 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:39 am
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Im mechanically minded, not an electrical genius so bare with me if what i say is a fundamental error.

When i did the DOHC conversion, it required a change to a high voltage coil, and thus removal of ballast resistor. Ballast power wire [what youve labelled the run wire] was connected to the pos terminal but i still found i had no spark.

The "start" wires that arent connected, were originally connected to my coil but left off when the new coil went in. No spark. I connected the start wires to the pos of the coil and found i immediately had spark. My theory is that the "start" wires are a trigger from the loom to tell the coil to switch on/off. Why it mightve worked in your old setup, is that the coil trigger was dictated by the old dizzy [ie power to dizzy, when rotating power fed to trigger wire from dizzy to coil].

Like i said, not that good with electrics but its worth a try.

Nick-

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 11:24 pm 
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F3ARED wrote:
Im mechanically minded, not an electrical genius so bare with me if what i say is a fundamental error.

When i did the DOHC conversion, it required a change to a high voltage coil, and thus removal of ballast resistor. Ballast power wire [what youve labelled the run wire] was connected to the pos terminal but i still found i had no spark.

The "start" wires that arent connected, were originally connected to my coil but left off when the new coil went in. No spark. I connected the start wires to the pos of the coil and found i immediately had spark. My theory is that the "start" wires are a trigger from the loom to tell the coil to switch on/off. Why it mightve worked in your old setup, is that the coil trigger was dictated by the old dizzy [ie power to dizzy, when rotating power fed to trigger wire from dizzy to coil].

Like i said, not that good with electrics but its worth a try.

Nick-


You and me both! I understand (vaguely) things like fuel and water which run along tubes and lines that you can see. Electricity runs invisibly and when you can see it, it's when smoke comes out!

I think you made an excellent suggestion. I'll disconnect the starter motor, then test the wires on the "ON" and "START" positions on the key. I guess it doesn't hurt to connect the start wires to the coil, as long as we are sure that there isn't any weird feedback to the starter motor when the motor is "ON". But that should be easy enough to test with the started unplugged.

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 12:47 am 
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on most datsun coil setups, there will be 2 power wires to the coil/ballast.
when IGN is "on" it gives power to the ballast, where the voltage drops before going thru the coil.

when you turn the key to START, it stops power to the ballast, and instead gives power directly to the coil, giving the coil the full 12V to help with better spark while cranking.

so when you get rid of the ballast setup, yes, you have to join those 2 wires together

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:15 am 
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MrHijet wrote:
Kev,

Could you be so kind and scan the documents even in higher Resolution ? The current resolution (96 dpi) is a bit too grainy.

I am at around half of Page1 now, but it getting tough now as I can't detect all characters.

You can send them to dflinkmann /at/ gmx.de

Daniel


Kev,

Today morning I have overhauled your 96 dpi scans and hopefully tonight I am getting more forward. My Scanning tools rely on very high resulutions, but it looks like my "reniced" files out of your originals are working already better than before.

The first page is more or less unimportants. Most things are just that the company disclaim liability if its wrong installed, not the right materials (e.g. a wrong coil and so own) is used.

I am at work now, so I can continue the translation work in aprox 10 hours again.

If you can scan in higher resolutions, please do it. If not, it's okay too.

Daniel

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Current cars:
Daihatsu Hijet S85
Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 3:27 am 
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MrHijet wrote:
MrHijet wrote:
Kev,

Could you be so kind and scan the documents even in higher Resolution ? The current resolution (96 dpi) is a bit too grainy.

I am at around half of Page1 now, but it getting tough now as I can't detect all characters.

You can send them to dflinkmann /at/ gmx.de

Daniel


Kev,

Today morning I have overhauled your 96 dpi scans and hopefully tonight I am getting more forward. My Scanning tools rely on very high resulutions, but it looks like my "reniced" files out of your originals are working already better than before.

The first page is more or less unimportants. Most things are just that the company disclaim liability if its wrong installed, not the right materials (e.g. a wrong coil and so own) is used.

I am at work now, so I can continue the translation work in aprox 10 hours again.

If you can scan in higher resolutions, please do it. If not, it's okay too.

Daniel


Thanks a lot for your help Daniel, I'll definitely re-do them in 600dpi. I had no idea you were using software tools to do this, I though that you just knew how to read Japanese :D

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