Good news and not-so-good news...
First the easy stuff. One of the things I wanted to do while the car was up on stands was to replace the VR Commodore strut tops with Cusco camber tops. The main reason was that the GM tops were very thick, and so the 15mm lower profile of the Cusco plates would mean that the front would be lowered 15mm automatically, without any sacrifice of shock travel.
The Cusco plates are actually for the GC10 Skyline, so they fit perfectly, but they don't fit the shocks on the car....the issue is that the Cusco tops are for shocks with an M12 thread on the shaft, whereas the Z31 300ZX Konis on my car have an M14 thread.
Pretty much everything on the Hako is Datto 510-sized, so it makes sense that at some point Nissan went up a size. It shouldn't be a huge drama to sort this out however, I'm sure that all I have to do is find some parts off a Silvia Cusco camber top and that should be compatible with the Z31 Konis and then I should be able to retrofit everything together with the Hako camber tops and fit them to the car. But at least I could I fit up the restored strut tower brace and it looks very nice.
But for the time being the issue is the ignition, and getting the car going with the Kameari distributor kit. First I have to fit the later-style dizzy/oil pump driveshaft.
Then you line up the dot on the shaft with the mark on the oil pump. Since the dizzy is geared to the crank you have to get this bit right, or the dizzy will be timed wrong.
The oil pump is filled with oil (so that the pump gears aren't grabbing air when you start up) and then you carefully insert the whole lot into the bottom of the engine.
It takes a few goes but eventually you get the position of the dizzy shaft right, which is to say that the 'flat' of the shaft points to 11.25 o'clock.
...which should point the rotor to fire #1 cylinder.
Looks great! But no start! I took out one of the spark plugs and rested it on the rocker cover while I cranked the engine, and it definitely isn't getting any sparks. The coil is getting juice though, and I also checked the Kameari loom for continuity and it's fine. The Kameari module isn't getting hot or anything and there isn't any burning smell...
The only thing I did before fitting up the new ignition system was clean up some redundant wiring that was for the original stock points/ballast resistor setup. I'm pretty sure I didn't disturb anything but I think that's the next thing to check. From the looks of it, there was some hacking about of the wiring loom when the ignition was converted from points to electronic in Japan, but the thing is...if it's hacked about, then how come it worked with the previous system? Strange...
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.