turns out beautiful men i really love that Hakosuka bro!

I always wonder how much a car like this one with matching # and documentation plus the DOHC engine will do on the block of a collector car auctions from Barrett - Jackson!

the big question there is have you ever seen any JNC on the block at a Barrett-Jackson auction? I always see Euro and American classics on there but mostly American Muscle cars for the most part

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They're not hard to find...it's just that they are all in Japan and are really, really expensive

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thats why i got this question always arround my head, cuz i have seen 0 japanese classics on there, i think as far as they dont became the next big thing on there we can still enjoy em! as soon as they jump and if for some reason became the next big thing on the block, we are messed up!

The real GTRs don't usually go on Yahoo auctions, but they change hands privately or at dealerships.

Here's a couple at a Yokohama dealership:
http://www.classica-y.jp/fullchoice.html

And here's four for sale on www-goo-net.co.jp:
http://www.goo-net.com/cgi-bin/fsearch/ ... ord=&sg=on

Price raneg is generally Y8mil~Y15mil

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...i like that PS-bling
what a dreamcar that is.....once the car is on the road you have to put a video on youtube...that sound has to be heard!
cheers marty

Kev we were talking about a large Auction house that sells cars on an actual auction block, American muscle cars from the late 60s-early 70's sell for anywhere from $100k USD to $1.5M USD usually if matching numbers and mint condition it will sell at the $1.5M USD but I have seen them go up to and over $2.5M USD

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We get re-runs of the Barret Jackson auctions on cable TV over here and have never seen a Jap motor on there yet but that is probably a good thing. As stated above once you start to get a lot of collectors on a scene the prices on cars and parts will go up. I have just witnessed this on the old school BMX scene, some bikes which were say £300 4 years ago are now around the £1000 mark purely because of the mass momentum of interest gained in the last few years.


PS The car in this thread is so hot

Alrighty then....spark plug swapfest tonight!

Here's the results. The BP6ES that I was using before are on the left, 5s in the middle and 4 to the right:


The lower the number, the "hotter" the plug. If your plug is too cold, it will not burn off the deposits that form on them and foul up. But on the other hand, too hot a plug can reduce performance and maybe even cause pinging. The theory was that maybe the NGK BP6ES plugs I was using before were too cold for the grumpy cam and inefficient Webers, and hence the fuel spitting back out from poor combustion. Well, it's a plausible theory, worth trying out,

The 6s are quite fouled, but after 10-15 mins of idling, the 5s and 4s look quite ok. If I had to put my finger on it I'd say that the 4s seemed smoother and crisper. And get this, with the 5s, there was still a bit of fuel dripping out after prolonged idling (maybe half of what it used to be) but with the 4s...only one drip under the second carb:


The 5s still had a little bit of fluffiness just off idle, although they were definitely better than the 6s. At this stage I think I'll stick with the 4s for pootling around, at least until I get the car rego'd and can do some proper driving on the road. I think that there is still "something" at play here, and the hotter plugs are just compensating for it. The last remaining thing (unless there is something wrong with the ignition system) is cam timing, and so I think I'll have to take the plunge and check that over properly soon.

Oh by the way, the restored headlamp assemblies look quite nice too.

Before:


After:

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Based on the spark readings, I would use a 5 temperature, but a EIX ( Iridium tip). So Code BP5EIX .
Should work flawless and should reduce the spitting even further.

It's just a feeling, but I would fear the 4's will melt sooner or later.
(just my thoughts)

By the way: Don't you need injectors with builtin resistors ? (to stop high frequency disturbances) I though the european and australian cars need this generally to get through the certification.

Daniel

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Current cars:
Daihatsu Hijet S85
Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/

By the way...went for blue slip again this morning....and PASSED. We now have rego baby! Number plates, even The Hako is now road-legal.

Bad news is that the engine is still pretty sick. Good news is that the coughing and spitting is sorted, and where before it would just start to cough, splutter and die when you put any load on it, now it'll cope with hills, etc at lo rpm and lo throttle openings no probs. It's running better than ever, but...there's still something *wrong*. There's no power and it still doesn't want to rev.

The next port of call is a more hardcore look at cam timing....stay tuned

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Yay Rego!
Can I detect a visit to Mr Wilkins?

Hooks

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This space intentionally left blank.

In the spirit of the build so far, I will have a go at buggering it up all by myself. Taking the car to Mr Wilkins for sorting will be viewed as cowardly, like assembling IKEA furniture while actually using the supplied instructions: it's just not done by real men.

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LOL only in Australia. FARK we are a stubborn country.

With the rough-running issues, would the ignition curve being not suited to the cam a possibility?

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun

Well in theory the ignition should be pretty much what the engine wants: lots of initial advance and then not much advance after that.

It's seeming quite likely that the cam timing is the real issue, there isn't any "sweet spot" where the car really takes off, as would be the case if the ignition was wrong.

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The way i see it is if the curve is wrong [ie too much advance down low] and/or the base timing is abit higher then it should be, then it will cause rough running and sluggishness, for example at big throttle openings at low engine speeds.

You know your car better then i do/you know what you have or havent checked, just a suggestion

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun

I think it's a good suggestion, and I guess it's all the impetus I need to install the Kameari distributor system. I haven't done it yet because it'll need the oil pump to be dropped, but it'll give me a chance to measure the oil pump for wear, and you never know, the distributor might make the problems go away....

Well....some ppl have suggested that the engine problem may be compression-related, so I dug out the compression tester and gave it a whirl and....

....the readings are all very high! 190~200psi. This is the same gauge that I've always had and after I had my MX5 engine rebuilt with 10.5:1 comp it read 205~210psi, so the gauge is reasonably accurate.


Now, what I was expecting was that if the cam timing was way off, then the readings would be super low from the valves opening too early on the compression stroke....but these are very high readings for something with an allegedly big cam...

But it's a massive relief that the engine isn't rooted, and I presume it's as freshly built as the head is. Hmm...I am starting to think maybe it's an ignition issue instead....

Anyway I moved on and decided to re-lower the car For rego, I'd installed these tall King springs which gave the car 16cm of ground clearance I only needed 10cm but decided it didn't hurt to overkill it.


As before, to remove the springs, you undo the shock and the driveshaft and the control arm will swing down enough to remove the spring.


When I first got the car it was so low that it was sitting on the bumpstops, and so I got these shorter bumpstops from GTR specialists http://www.protec-s20.co.jp/ when I was in Japan...as you can see they are 40mm shorter than the stock ones.


But are they TOO short?


I compressed the shock by hand, and the masking tape marks where the shock bottoms out. As you can see, when I push the suspension up to its bump limits, the shock is bottomed out...


...the tyre is actually jammed against the top of the wheelhouse


...and the fancy JDM bumpstop isn't even touching yet!


The solution seems to be to space the bumpstop out, so that it's not a whole 40mm shorter, but only 15mm shorter than stock...


At that point there is still 30mm of shock travel left...


...and about an inch and a bit before the tyre starts to remove parts of the bodywork.


This is rather bizarre...the bumpstops are definitely the right part, and I'm pretty sure there isn't some special spacer or anything that I was supposed to buy as well. Just goes to show you should check new parts before fitting them up...I guess it's possible that a real GT-R has a deeper wheelhouse so you can go lower?

I'll seek out some proper 25mm spacers and longer bolts tomorrow and that should get the new bumpstops sorted.

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Since they got quite cheap recently, have you thought about installing a wide band sensor ?

Check out http://www.14point7.com/ (Homepage of the YAW O2 Sensor). You just need to buy a Volkwagen/Bosch Wideband o2 sensor and you have fare more chances to figure out what the engine does at certain loads and revs.

Cheers,

Daniel

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Current cars:
Daihatsu Hijet S85
Daihatsu Charade G11 + G102
Daihatsu Cuore/Mira L201 + L501 + L701

http://www.Hijet.de/