How old is the R30? If it's 25 years old, we can!

I'm trying to figure out the cost to bring a Haskosuka to either Hawaii or Californa in the next couple of years - Shipping from England to the east coast is roughly $1500, and from Hawaii to Long Beach is the same - I'm only hoping that Japan - Long Beach is similar. I guess we'll find out when the time draws near.

Definitely a cool ride.

Yeah I'd be tipping pump failing, they do that. Try a Bosch 040, 910, Walbro GSS 250lph or something similar.

FJ20ETs run quite large injectors, 375cc, so you really shouldn't be having too much trouble with fuelling. Plus Nissan's less than helpful ecu tunes tend to richen things up to buggery on boost or with added boost...so something is definitely wrong. By comparison, on 13psi my HR31 dips to 10:1 AFRs by about 3500rpm then continues off the scale cloaking trailing traffic in a thick black smokescreen.

Turbo Nissans as a rule run exceedingly rich in cold start cycle too, that would explain the overfuelling at idle. I couldn't leave the last RB20DET idling cold for long or it would unfailing foul plugs, the mixtures were thick as soup.
Even the '97 Stagea we have uses a tremendous amount of fuel until it clicks over into warmed up mode.

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yep, I've been prodded into doing a bit of investigating one sunny weekend. It helps when your friends like your car as much as you do, and hate to see it sitting around gathering dust!

have heard good things about the Bosch 040s (over the Walbros) so I may pick one of those up as funds allow. At least that will be much easier to source than the new optical CAS I had to order last year!


Now that's one venture I wouldn't mind undertaking myself, but my chances of ever affording a genuine Hakosuka diminish with every passing day as they just keep getting more and more expensive... last I looked, the asking prices on KPGC10s were well in excess of the new R35 GT-R

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Of course, Hakosuka caters for the generation as opposed to specifically the GT-R.

You could still pick up a "GT-R look" for a comparatively low amount, Ed. Or just outright get a 2000GT-X. Still a great car.

OR!

Get an Aussie spec'd C210 'GL', I know where there's a green one you could have for $30,000

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I don't know how similar the R30 pump cradle is to the R31, but I have a Bosch 910 pump. Technically its external, but they are often used for in-tank applications. The bonus with the 910 is the body size is smaller in diameter and the pickup end has a hosetail fitting which (in a R31 anyway) lets you use the stock pickup and screen unlike the 040 with its open bottom. The difference in flow rate is negligible with the 910 flowing slightly less.

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wow, has it really been over a year since the last update? Time flies when you've got more than one Japanese nostalgic car to look after

Both DR30s haven't seen much activity - I spent most of 2009 finishing the restoration of my BFMRF Laser TX3, and the first half of 2010 is going to be spent getting my SA22C Savanna RX-7 road legal. Then I can finally start on the "terror squid" DR30 sedan build

in the meantime, my KDR30 coupe soldiers on quietly, as grandad-spec as the day it left the factory. Ironic that the very last update in this thread concerned fuel pumps, as the standard one in the coupe is now starting to exhibit the classic signs of impending failure - loud groaning/buzzing, and difficult to start. Bosch 910 #2, here I come... at least I know it worked wonders on the sedan.

I also got an electronics whiz friend to re-solder the contacts on the fuel pump controller on the coupe, as that had a few suspect joins. I guess you can't really expect 25+ year old electrics to keep going forever. For example, both radiator fan sensors and the oil pressure sender now also need replacing, having given up their respective ghosts over the last 18 months!

anyway, on Sunday the fuel pump was behaving well enough for me to take the car for a leisurely drive, so with camera in hand, I set off on a journey.

The SSR Meshies are also on the market now; I'm amping to get my Watanabes fitted as soon as they're gone

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Jeez that intercooler looks familiar

Hooks

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Now we are starting to get serious.

the credit card took a beating this week. I'm loath to add up all the invoices, but everything you see in this photo is destined to end up in terror squid. Can you identify each item? (click on the photo for assistance)



not shown: 4x Denso 850cc injectors, which are on order.

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Oh my lord!
Here we go........(cue neverending story theme music )

Hooks

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guess I'm not cool enough to be included in the latest round of DR30 owner back-slapping

Anyway my Denso injectors finally arrived, and with them some confusion over the part number (195500-0830 "bluetops"). The rotary guys rate them at only 680cc, and the Z-freaks at 720cc, but I'd bought them thinking they were 850cc as advertised. found a few other differing opinions splashed across the interwebs as well.

Sent them to my usual fuel injection shop to be flowtested, and was relieved when they came back with the final readings of 832-832-840-840 at 3bar. So I'm not entirely sure where these jokers on the 'net got their flow rates from

Now I gotta keep an eye out for some suitable engine management to run this pandora's box of goodies. Anyone got any skinny on when Megasquirt III is meant to be coming out?

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Maybe there's more than one "bluetop"

I'll be watching close with your choice on engine managment. Although the stock ECU does a great job for me, I don't think it's up to the task of any more mods. Ever mess with the fuel trimmer on the stock ECU?

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83' DR30

Nope, I haven't played around with that, although it does sound intriguing.

I'm getting my arm twisted into fitting a Megasquirt II v3.0, but i'm still researching whether it's possible to stick one in a standard FJ20 ECU case and mate it to the existing loom without too much chopping. have found a very useful ECU pinout on FJ20.com, which should help with the process somewhat.

Alright, now that my SA22C RX-7 is all sorted, it's time to turn some attention back to the DR30s

some friends of mine are getting together to hold a memorial trackday for another friend who died five years ago this month. Said friend was the one who helped me with importing the coupe originally, so I thought it would be fitting to give one of the Skylines a blat around the track in his honour. Out of the two DR30s, squid is the most suitable candidate, so I took it out of the storage unit and gave it a quick shakedown yesterday to ensure things still werked.

Topped up the brake fluid and checked oil/coolant etc. Went for a quick burn down the road and yup, the grin-inducing surge of power when the thing finally comes on boost is still there

however there are a few things which require doing before trackday (in nine days time):

- Fit reconditioned alternator
- Change chain tensioner to get rid of notorious FJ20 startup rattle
- New tyres for the 15x8.0s on the rear
- Bash out sump and check the oil pickup isn't too badly munted (this could be the soul-destroying moment if it turns out that it has)

the above list also happens to be preparation for the big power mods that are yet to come

While I was there, I decided to waste some time by fitting some sweet period '80s Pioneer shelf speakers I scored the other week:





which required about 15 minutes of pissing around in the boot removing wingnuts, re-aligning brackets and re-crimping bullet terminals etc.

Success! And yes, unfortunately, the tops of the rear seats badly need re-upholstering.

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Good find there they look damn good, I would love a period correct speaker unit like that and retro-fit them with some newer speakers.

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haha yeah, just make sure you find some with round speakers. The square drivers in mine are going to be a bitch to replace (one of them is starting to crackle) doesn't help that there's a huge cult following in Japan which means stuff ain't cheap.

This little kamera thing on my iph-phod is starting to come in useful...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qrf44ni3M-c

Quick run of squid, had to put in 95 octane fuel out of an old jerry can I had lying around (it usually runs 98 octane). Didn't want to rev it due to the oil pump making a horrendous whining noise, as I stated before I'm pretty sure it's blocked up with crud and that dent isn't making things any better.

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Yeah I have noticed they arent cheap, hence why I am happy enough with my 6x9s for another year or so.

The only thing that bugs me about the DR30 stereo Is the CD player not sitting in flush with the dash. I have heard most other people say the same thing, why I havnt tried taking mine out to sit in flush.

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Oil pump whine is a bit worrying...my last RB20DET died of a failed oil pump. Hopefully you'll sort it before it does any damage.

I want to see squid back on all four Ewings and scraping the deck again

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Ask Kev about oil pump whine on a DR30.
He'll give you the good oil..er...so to speak.

Hooks

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haha yes, I must thank Kev actually... it was his description of the oil pump whine that first made me stop and think that the pickup could in fact be blocked. Up until that point everyone who'd seen the car running and had heard the noise assumed it was just a quirk of the remote oil filter mechanism (myself included)

anyway, the good news is that the sump straightened out with little fuss - the pickup was indeed blocked, and correspondingly the oil pump whine is now gone forever. On top of that the alternator now charges properly, and the accursed chain rattle on startup is also gone (thanks to the fitting of a new Mazda tensioner).

all went well, until the car decided to start running on 3 cylinders on the drive home nursed it back, pulled out the old Iridiums that were installed, and stuck in some standard NGK BP6ES plugs instead. Huzzah, running on four again, apart from a couple of slight misfires when cold - I guess that's what happens if you leave a car sitting for three months and then have to start it on stale 95 octane

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uJ-OhOLt38

Spent most of yesterday afternoon driving the car and adjusting the TPS. it's not 100% sorted and still has a slight stumble/miss at a certain manifold vacuum point/throttle position but I guess i could spend the next few days playing around and still not get it exactly right.

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Don't bother running iridiums on a turbo Nissan, absolutely utter waste of cash. Copper electrode NGKs all the way.

Glad to hear you got the pump sorted!

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ohh glad you got it sorted