So I fixed the broken picture links on the first pages and manage to copy what was missing from the last couple of months of work from an other forum... might look a little crazy but I hope it'll still be somewhat easy to follow.
First, I had some trouble fitting 14" wheel on the car, from the suspension swap. :S
When turning the wheel, the back side of the inside wheel was hitting the wheel well pretty badly
And cause me to not be able to turn the steering lock to lock... poor angle...
So I dialed in as much caster as I could through the tension (radius) rods adjustement to bring the wheel a little forward in the well to stop it from hitting the back.
Much better, not "driftastict" but I can now go lock to lock which is not a bad thing
But clearance is marginal... gladly the spring rates on the cut 6kg TRD has gone up which will help to resist motion... and lets hope that the poly bushing don't have too much compliance
And here is before and after wheel position in the well
After that, I wasn't satisfied with the tranny I had so I had a member on a local forum from western Canada ship me some shifting rods from an early T50 along with the short tail housing and shifter
Here is the early and late rods side by side. The early one that goes with the short tails are longer since the shifter act directly on them. The longtail (AE86 one) has a 4th rod between the shifter and the 3 shifting rods so are a little shorter
Swapping that will allow me to not have to cut the transtunnel for the shifter which is a good 6" forward on the short tail
But the funny thing is that even if the shifter is 6" forward, the shift knob arrives at about the same place
So heres the early rods in the 22 spline tranny case
With the gears
And say goodbye to worn out shifter bushing
Yeah, the extension housing will get a cleaning but I just wanted to test fit everything first
Got everything cleaned and painted, it works flawlessly. No comparison with the long tail that was there to begin with.
And then, when I had just finished adjusting my valve lash, I needed to do it all again...
Trouble is that those cams were run too long without oil pressure. I got them close to free but all the journals are fubar. The lobes are perfect though. So I set up my trusty old press drill to turn the journal smooth again
I then went and work on the oil system. I started by welding a baffle in the center of the lower pan. I also put a hinge to stop oil from moving too fast in the front section during hard braking but to allow it to return faster to the rear part when getting back on the throttle. On the right side is a modified 1$ fitting from the plumbing store that is 3/8 NPT inside, it will serve to bolt my oil temperature gauge. On the other side is the same 3/8 NPT plumbing fitting that I modified to bolt on a modified oil strainer that will live in the rear section
And here is the modified strainer that bolts to the modified plumbing fitting which has a flared fitting bolted to it
But the best part is this, a real windage tray
Alright, I know it's pretty ugly inside there, welding oil contaminated steel that's been soaking in for the last 20 years or so makes welding a pita... but who cares when it'll look like that soon. Yep, that's just a leak test with some crappy oil I had in the shed.
And here's the test fit :
It's a little cleaner outside, here is the fitting for the temperature gauge on the intake side
And here on the exhaust side, you can see the fitting out of the strainer just above the pan drain plug and on top. A little farther back is the banjo bolt for the cooler return line, shouldn't be too clogged up.
I also painted the lowerpan but was too lazy to zinc plate the windage tray first so it's just holding there by 2 bolt for the picture
Zinc plating is fun!
But after that, the oil pump drive has giving me all sorts of headaches....
So after playing with all those 7A timing crap I noticed that the crank gear is very close in dia to the alternator pulley...
... and that the cam gear is exactly the same dia as the water pump pulley
So I hit the junkyard with that in mind.... coming back with 12$ worth of other crap
And started to mock things up... by using a second crank gear instead of the normal crank pulley and hacking the stock alternator pulley to weld an other crank gear on top, I'll drive the alternator at engine speed, a lot slower than the stock setup does. Same with using a cam gear to drive the water pump... it'll turn at half the engine speed instead of 1:1 like the stock setup.
And here's what it looks like with a 7M timing belt
Finaly got my oil pump and it fits even better than expected, first oil routing is a go so pickup at the pan to the back of the pump then out the big hole on the side up over it into the fitting by the side of the stock pump housing. Oil cooler will be setup as stock.
And because slipping belt are so lame...
If you look hard enough, you might notice that the cam gears are bigger than normal. I've decided to use 7A cam gears instead of 4A and the usual porsche timing belt. To do so you need a 143 tooth 8mm pitch Toyota belt. 2JZ use that so here's what it lloks like.
I'll really have to check the timing with a dial gauge on the cams but it looks pretty close if not perfect. Bender is square centered on its adjustment, fits like a glove... except :
Time for minor surgery since the 2JZ is 25mm wide
Oh yeah that will look awesome once all done!
After that, I took the pump apart...
No way I'm going to brake that thing... even less being driven at 57% crank speed.
And down there is the oil pressure release, just a simple piston that bypass oil from the pressure side to the inlet... way more efficient than moving oil back to the block and spraying the crank with unused oil that will foam in the pan before being picked up again by the strainer and returned back to the pump again... also less chance to suck the pan dry at high rev. So I did this
Second plug to block off the stock pressure release.
So I finally started working on the water rooting since the heater lines for the core are on the wrong side on the KE20. So I started to make a long alloy tube wrap around the back of the head and make a custom line to hook up the back of the head and then I did that...
Screw that. It's a summer car, don't need the weight of a heater core to start with. Plus the engine is noticeably heavier than the tiny 3K so setting it as far back as it'll go is the way to go in order not to upset the car's balance. I'll just cut the stock mount from the KE crossmember and move the engine as far back as it'll go. Removing all the crap from behind the engine will just let me move it back a little more. I already have to cut my driveshaft and cutting it 3/4" or 4" is the same amount of work. Also, by looking at that picture :
Notice how the KE20 stock mounts are miles ahead of the center crossmember section compared to the AE86. The clearance for the oil pan is huge. Also I got my tape measure and figured that the distance between the back of the 3K and the center of the engine mount is the same as on the 4A so if I cut the stock mount from the crossmember and reweld them a couple inch back (and a little more spaced since the 4A is a little wider), the back of the engine should be a lot closer to the firewall and I shouldn't have any clearance issue with the oil pan because of that huge cutaway in the KE20 crossmember.
And then I decided that flexible hose for the oil system is not the most reliable way to go... so I did this
5S-FE cooler that I got off of an ST204 from the local junkyard...
But hey, no way I'm clogging the back of the head to tap in for water... and no way I'm pushing hot water to cool my oil... so I did this :
It's a 1/2" aluminum tube that will make a 90° on the side of the block to plug into the oil cooler with a short rubber hose. The return will run above the waterpump in front of the block under the timing belt to reach the backside of the waterpump housing on the other side of the block where the heater hose normally plugs into. It'll all be solid alloy tube except for a small rubber hose where it plugs to the cooler. That way, I'm moving back to having only 2 external solid tube to carry oil from the pan to the pump and from the pump to the block. No flexible lines at all ont the oil system... I'd rather have 2 more coolant line instead, if they burst open you have time to react before any engine damage... when an oil line burst, the block is usually already fubar before you get a chance to notice.
Water exiting the waterpump will be channelled to the cooler before it has chance to absorb any heat from the engine so the water going to the engine should be at a steedy temperature not far away from the thermostat rating.
It gets to the cooler by travelling through the lower tube that will be connected to the lower fitting on the oil cooler with a very short heater hose
Water will then heat up by absorbing heat form the oil and get out of the cooler through the upper hose (heat rises
) and will get to the upper alloy tube by a second short heater hose. It will then travel on the front of the engine, underneat the timing belt...
...before it reach the rear of the water pump housing (normally used for heater return duty) to be recirculated back in the system
Not long after that, one of my friend dropped by for a beer (maybe two... or was it three?). We spoke a lot about engines while I showed him the longrod 4A but then he left and the engines was now looking like that...
It's a no-name header, looks a little like an OBX, probably from chinese origin (most likely), not to sure if they really made it equal length (probably not). Depending on the fitment on the chassis, I may run it as is with a couple extra support welded in for it not to crack (or delay), but if it doesn't it won't bother me to hack it up and make something nice out of it.
Oh and here's and artsy pic that I'm using as avatar.
You see, I've had a lot of time to think about the setup, and the more I think about it, the more I want to make it better... so as things get done, I reevaluate every other aspect of the build and I'm not so sure about the way the holley sits right now. So I started playing with it and finally turned it 90°
You see, every 4cyl carb engine I know of have the primary farther away from the valves than the secondary, which makes sense since they are used for crusing and low load situation/part throttle.
Anyway, since the carb is now "widder" but doesn't need clearance for the linkage next to the head, I removed the intake spacer I made. It's almost as compact as before.
Other thoughts I had also had me a little worried about the tilt of the engine. Since all the oil drain are on the exhaust side, the engine is normally leaning 4° on the exhaust side.
Which the builder of the intake surely didn't take into account...
So I'll have to shave the flange at a 4° angle to have the carb sitting level, and I may go a couple extra degres and match the custom motor mount to lean the engines a little farther... will probably help in draining the oil from the head (major issue in 4A) and also help to get the downpipe to clear the steering box.
Now should also be a lot easier to set the float levels. Also notice how lousy the EGR was blocked off... so I have a couple things to fix there. I am still not sure if I want to cut the whole flange, shave it down for the tilt angle and reweld it 90° around or if I'll just shave it and make a phenolic adpater spacer for it.
Like I said earlier, leaning the engine a little more on the exhaust side should help drain the head faster. Also since the PCV fitting is on the intake side, lifting that valve cover and putting the PCV more upward should aslo help in curing that damn issue when oil get sucked through the PCV during hard left cornering. Only trouble is that I don't want to tilt the oil pan too much and end up with a strainer that is not leveled anymore.
So I spent an hour yesterday tilting the engine on the stand and looking at it, measuring the tilt and looking at it a little more and decided that 10° looks silly enough and should mess the oil pickup level too much...
Go home engine you're drunk!
No turning back now!
Getting the parts preheated real good
Although I completely missed the mark...
...by half a degree