Not a great deal going on as I haven't been around.
I have headaches at work at present and more headaches with my other pretend job (manufacturing Mazda bits) which I'm retiring from. The latest bits have stressed me out somewhat because people don't listen. Regardless of that the ship arrived over the weekend, the parts will be unloaded from the container today and hopefully clear customs. They'll then be freighted to a Sydney warehouse where I'll unload them. My agent sent the parts to the wrong Australian port after repeated requests that they get unloaded in Botany (before they left the origin port)
He's tried to blame me but I sent him the paper work and emails that he'd agreed too ! Hopefully by the end of the week the mess will be over.
I know the Japan Day is coming up and it's 50/50 whether the car will be there. I'll have about a week and bit to sort the rest of it out. Knowing my experience with rotarys I'm not expecting a smooth run. It'll be a miracle if a new 10a TD BP starts off the key to make the event. While I'm away I'll have my other half chase up a few things for us, basically diff and gearbox oil as well as some Evans coolant. Given the car won't be used regularly I'm looking into buying a deep cycle battery.
I had Pirtek make some new oil cooler hoses. They reuse the original fittings and clamp on new hoses.
Here's the new Rx7 oil cooler fitted that Mazda recently made. The mounts were modified to fit the 10a radiator. There are some caveats for 10a owners though. The main one being that the undertray needs to be modified as it won't fit due to the cooler being larger. In pic 2 you can see the cooler just fits within the lower valance panel although the foam strip sticks out slightly at the ends. Overall though when looking at the car, it's unnoticeable. I have a damaged undertray that I'll modify to suit this car.
I ordered some new guides and anti rattle springs for the calipers. The original springs and guides had seen better days.
Setting up the timing. I was making a basic tool to fit over the front pulley to make timing adjustment a little easier. Dazz mentioned to check that TD timing pulley isn't 360mm in diameter which makes making the marks easy. Basically each mm = a degree in timing. Pic 1 shows the factory 10a settings. Pic 2, measuring for the new timing marks.
Setting the trailing ignition. Dave Broadhurst slots the internal timing plate to allow for the extra timing that may be required for BPs and PPs. It's a really trick setup and well thought out modification. Interestingly Racing Beat recommend up to 35 degrees for TD engines. TDs must have completely different port timing to their SD counterparts I'm assuming.
Doing the same for the leading ignition....
Exhaust done.... Long primaries which are 1 3/4 ID into a 2 1/4 collector into a 2 1/4 rear stainless muffler. A lot of people try and reinvent the wheel. Mazda knew this was the best setup from the late 1960s. If you have an opportunity take a look under any stock L10B Cosmo and guess what you'll see. I don't recall exactly but I think the primaries on the L10B may join after the diff. The other key thing is not to go overboard with the ID on the primaries unless you want a lot of noise.
Nothing fancy at the rear, I sprayed the rear of the muffler black to anti bling it. Also nothing fancy at the tip, just your typical 80's style setup, straight and matt black. Pic 2 completing the engine bay wiring......
Engine bay pretty much done, just needs the battery clamp repaired, the heater pipe attached to the radiator, OMP sorted and a sump bolt. I'll be ordering new nylon hose for the OMP this week. Jeff sent me some wire style hose clamps to seal the rest of the cooling system. There's a 6 week wait to get new ones from Japan, can't wait as I've had enough !
That's pretty much it, I still need to install the Carter 4070 fuel pump tighten up the gearbox mounts under the car, install the seat belts, add some fluids and I'm done with this one I think 8-[
Another update this time on the sedan. I was hoping to take the car (coupe) down to the Japan Day but now that seems unlikely although the car will still be out and about before the end of the year. There's a few small things I need to buy. The car basically needs a weekend of work. I'm still hoping to pop down on the day however I just realised I'm rostered on to work that weekend
We'll see what happens. It may sound strange after all the work I've put into the coupe but I don't feel any urge to drive it. There must be something wrong with me but it's the truth. I get my enjoyment from building them, my preference is to drive a car with all the mod cons. That's not to say that it won't be spotted out and about
I thought I'd start with something easy with the sedan. I've started at the rear end and will work my way forward...
The car has been blasted in and out except for the bits that were going to be thrown away. The boot floor is more fibreglass than metal and is a real mess. While trying to remove the brazing with a torch the boot went up in flames
It would of been good if the car burnt to the ground to save me the effort. The heat lifted the fibreglass, not much metal remained.
Pic 1, the strips of glass
that lifted after heating the brazed beaver panel. Pic 2, the beaver panel will be converted to 72 spec. I'll convert the exhaust cutout to look right and I'll make a number plate bracket. To remove I ended up cutting through the remaining joins.
Pic 1, bear bum.... Pic 2, the beaver has some rivet rust repairs which will be fixed properly.
Removing the boot floor....
...and cutting out some more, I think I can save the tyre well easy enough. Parts are too hard to find these days. Most 40yo cars have seen better days.
Lots of boot rust, Pic 2 more glass was removed so I could see the spot welds on the rear cross member.
The bits are being saved so I can make a replacement floor. There are some heat shield brackets on the underside that need to be transfered onto the new floor.
Pretty much all gone now. There is a method to my madness. The new floor will be fabricated out of 3 pieces I think, left, rear centre and right. I still have to clean up some of the old floor. On the left side there will be new metal from the beaver to the wheel arch. I have carefully cut up to the last swage pressing so the repair looks clean and undetectable (hopefully). The same will be done on the right side but will be a little more complex but not much more. I will stamp my own pressings to replicate the original stampings. I'll most likely make the template using my coupes floor. The rear frame is pretty clean, but will be blasted and primed before the new floor goes in.
I'm not going to bother trying to find a genuine replacement floor as it'll be too difficult to one, find one, and two, unpick it without making a mess.