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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:12 am 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
The axle nut is only 22 ft/lbs??? That seems crazy low

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:33 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 860
Location: Oklahoma City
That is why you stake it with the castle nut and the cotter pin. Don't want it too tight as it will bind the bearings and lead to premature failure. Pretty crazy when you think the wheel is really only held on with that cotter pin. Good reason to not re-use them :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:22 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
Wow looks like I forgot to update on this forum! Here we go, it's gonna be a long one.

8/9/13
I got reimbursed for my flywheel by the Fredericksburg dude, and have a proper flywheel from a manual MX73 Cressida coming from from a yard in King George on Tuesday. I also got all my front hub bearings/seals/washers, as well as the rear drums.

8/13/13
Flywheel came in today, and it's in the machine shop. They said it would be done in a day or two.

I also got the rest of my brake stuff. Bearings, seals, pins, washers, pads, rotors, shoes, drums, cylinders, axle seals, diff seals.....everything is here and ready. I'm just waiting to have the engine in before I do that stuff for some reason.

8/14/13
Made this while I've been waiting for the flywheel. I used parts from a MX73 Cressida, Mitsubishi Sigma Wagon, and Volvo 240 wagon to make it. LOTS of custom hand-clicked pixel by pixel.
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8/15/13
Flywheel fits, clutch bolted on easy, transmission mated no problem
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Drivetrain went in mostly painlessly
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Now the issue is getting the transmission cross member to fit. The one that came with the manual trans (from 1986.5 Supra NA) is not wide enough so I have to use the Cressida auto one. I've tried every combination of every orientation with the crossmember and both transmission mounts from both gearboxes and I can't get the bolt holes to line up with any of the bajillion threaded holes in the chassis, so I have to go buy more roto-zip-style bits for my dremel so I can slot the holes in the trans member. However, most electronics are connected, power steering and alternator are hooked up, AC is connected but needs to be tightened, there are a few fuel hoses that still need to be routed, but it's going OK in the engine bay so far.
Also, the speedo cable drive is on the opposite side with this trans, so the speedo cable will be RIGHT next to the exhaust. I may have to get some heat wrap for the cable and/or wrap the exhaust there.


8/20/13
I got the transmission bolted in (3 out of 4 bolts ain't bad) and the interior is all back together except for the shifter, which is waiting on the rear end rebuild before I can put the driveshaft in to keep trans oil from coming out the back.

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All the engine electrics are plugged in, radiator and fan are in, now I just have to connect up one of the fuel lines, get a battery, connect the exhaust, fill it up with fluids, and it should be good to start here soon.

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I really don't like how my intake is situated. I'll be buying a Rabid Chimp intake pipe in a week or two. I think I may just go ahead and replace the brake master cylinder, lines, and front calipers first. I don't trust any brake system that has been neglected to the point of housing an algae colony.


8/25/13
Went to the DMV today and got it all registered and titled and whatnot. I then came home and fell asleep so I only worked on the car for like an hour and a half today, but I did get one front hub all disassembled.

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While I was in there, I noticed that the hardline-to-softline brake fitting is pretty much fused and will likely need to be cut off, which mean I'll need to either re-flair the existing hardline with a new fitting or replace the hardline altogether. I also noticed that the left steering rack boot is torn, and I have one coming in on Monday from Bap Geon. Monday at work I will need to order caliper pin boot things as well since these are toast. Tomorrow I'm going to go by Wal-Mart and get their cheap-o oil for the first start up, as well as stopping by Advance Auto and grabbing a battery and some axle/bearing grease so I can reassemble what I took apart today. Hopefully I can get both front hubs rebuilt/rotors replaced tomorrow as well as make some progress on re-sealing the rear axle/diff and replacing the rear brakes.


8/25/13
I got everything buttoned up on the motor and it runs sooooooo smooth (my clutch-activated neutral safety bypass works perfectly). I just gotta sort out a medium-sized coolant leak from where the heater hose connects to the top/back of the head and it will be awesome. Both front rotors have been replaced, along with all the hub bearings and such. I'm still waiting on calipers and brake lines, should be here tomorrow. Tomorrow I need to order new caliper slide pin boots at work.

Power steering will need to be bled as well. I also noticed that the passenger front window will go down but not up. I tested the motor by itself and it works, so it must be something in a switch. I ALSO need to get a trim-removal tool so I can get into my rear hatch handle and get the key lock to work. Right now I can only unlock it electronically. So basically once I get my brakes done up front I can move on to the rear axle, then the driveshaft can go in and I can take it for a spin! WOO HOO!

8/26/13
Start up!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... zDxC1p7roQ

Other than that, I made very little progress tonight. The torn steering rack boot has been replaced, but in the process the threads on my outer tie rod end were completely mangled so I have one of those coming from Advance tomorrow. I THINK my coolant leak is fixed but I'm not 100% on that, time will tell. Tomorrow my calipers/lines/master cylinder should come in. After that, the front will be back on the ground and I'll move on to the rear end seals.

As for the future of the rear end, I have been doing research into axle/diff codes and whatnot and I THINK if I took out the internal gear-bits out of a MA60 Celica-Supra it SHOULD bolt into my axle and give me an LSD. I know the ring and pinion are the same, but I'm not sure about the axle splines and such. So I'll be hopping over to CAP early Saturday morning and pulling the diff out of the P-type they have over there just for shiggles.


8/27/13
New calipers and brake lines fit up to the new rotors and pads to complete the front brakes......
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.....along with a new master cylinder.

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Now we move on to the rear brakes. Drums. Yuck.

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My workspace this evening, complete with mosquito lamp to keep the biters at bay.

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I got the axle out, the rear brakes completely disassembled, the back plate off, the axle oil seal out, only to find that I forgot to order new seals. *facepalm* Looks like I'll be ordering those tomorrow. I was able to get the backing plate put on with new shoes and a new wheel cylinder. Not a big deal about the seals, as the axles have to be out of the diff for me to pull the "third member" (as the 4Runner guys call it) to replace the big diff housing gasket. While it's out I may take it somewhere to have the backlash checked and what not since I have NO idea how to do that mess.

I also checked my VIN Plate. Looks like the EPC at work was wrong, I have an E-series diff (7.1"), not an F-series (7.5") so the MA60 diff will NOT swap

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:27 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
9/2/13
I was in a big hurry today so I only took one pic. Basically today between 3 and 9 I did the following:
-remove right axle shaft
-replace right drum brakes
-replace both axle oil seals
-re-install both axle shafts with fresh end plate gaskets
-drain diff oil, replace drain bolt/gasket
-remove diff, replace oil seal, replace diff
-refill diff, replace fill bolt/gasket (Amsoil gear oil)
-drain transmission, replace drain bolt/gasket
-refill transmission (Redline MT90)
-install shifter
-replace rear brake softline
-install new custom driveshaft
-re-bench bleed brake master cylinder
-bleed all brakes
-reinstall wheels

As you can see, I was busy. Here's a pic of my super awesome open diff while it was out

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It now runs and drives very well, but there are a few issues I need to address soon.
-replace radiator hose(s) since they are a tad drippy
-replace or rebuild starter since it's kinda spotty when it actually wants to work properly
-it hesitates when you give it lots of throttle. Not sure what that could be, maybe TPS? It has all new ignition, so I'm not sure what's up.
-front right window needs to be diag'd, goes down but not up, but the motor works fine when you apply power directly to it.
-needs rear wiper blades
-needs proper coolant temp gauge. The stock one reads in the middle all the time.

But the important thing is that it runs and drives! WOO HOO!


9/9/13
I've put about 150 miles on the car so far and it's been pretty solid. I put in a cheap-o autozone mechanical water temp gauge just to make sure I'm not overheating and I'm not. There are still a few issues that need to be addressed:
-window still doesn't work
-shift boot/center console needs to be properly put together
-pedals need adjusting
-whenever the rear suspension is compressed a bit (bump or lots of people in the car), the now-oversized front u-joint on the driveshaft lightly contacts the dust shield on the transmission, looks like the black thing in this picture I found on google:

http://www.ke5rs.com/dropbox/rides/supra/DSC_5307a.jpg

So I think I may trim that skirt thing a little bit.

Other than that the car doesn't have any real issues. I do have a list of things I'd like to do to it in the future, here they are in rough order of expense/effort:
-buy cassette tape to headphone jack adapter so I can listen to my iPod through the awesome 1993-spec aftermarket Pioneer stereo
-plumb in a power steering cooler using either a PS cooler I have yet to acquire from a car in the junkyard OR using the stock AE86 oil cooler I have as a PS cooler
-plumb in an engine oil cooler using either the aforementioned AE86 cooler or using another cooler from probably the junkyard in conjunction with an Earl's Performance oil filter sandwich w/build in thermostat
-finish restoring/polishing the P-Type wheels, get tires, put them on the car
-cut springs a bit until I can afford coilovers
-electric radiator fan conversion
-modify my Celi-Supra seat rails to fit/dye seats to match/fix lumbar ball pump thing/install
-complete suspension overhaul with T3 shortened front coilover housings, BC racing rear AE86 coilovers (really adjustable shock perches and adjustable length shocks, not actually "coil-over"), custom T3 panhard bar, custom length T3 axle links, probably T3 steering arms as well for quicker steering


9/14/13
Compiling a list of optionsfor future low...

Front:
A) Cut springs, stock shocks - free, but hate my life
B) Remove spring perches, cut/shorten/weld housings with SW20 MR2 rear KYB AGX shock inserts and T3 weld-on kit and camber plates - $610 + welding costs, $420 without camber plates

Rear:
A) Cut springs, Camaro KYB AGX rear shocks, custom T3 panhard bar - $350, but hate my life
B) Custom springs, Camaro KYB AGX rear shocks, custom T3 panhard bar - $???
C) Megan Racing/BC Racing AE86 rear "coilover" (adjustable spring seats, 8k springs, adjustable length shocks), custom T3 panhard bar - around $650
D) everything from option C, plus all T3 adjustable heim joint links and traction brackets - $1100 ish

I'm thinking B for the front without camber plates for now, and either B or C for the rear


9/17/13
Got word from T3 that a panhard rod would run me $145 and I just have to send them measurements and they will make me a nice heim joint adjustable one.
Megan Racing rear AE86 bits would run around $500 (not sure if shipped or not)
BC Racing rear AE86 bits would run around $660 shipped

I think I may just do cut springs with KYB AGX Camaro shocks on the rear. I'll still probably be doing T3 coilovers/shortened housings/MR2 shocks on the front, but it's all going to have to wait since it's pretty expensive to do everything.


9/19/13
Ordered a Mocal oil filter sandwich plate with built-in thermostat.
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It has two 1/2" BSP fittings, so I got 1/2" BSP to -8AN adapters, and two -8AN to 3/8" hose barb fittings that match the 3/8" barbs on the AE86 oil cooler. ALSO, the bracketry on the cooler almost perfectly lines up with the bolts for the hood latch vertical support piece, so mounting it should be a breeze. Still working on how a power steering cooler will fit, but we will see.

I also have new radiator hoses waiting to go in, and I'll probably be getting new belts tomorrow. Every time I start the car from cold, it squeals really loud for about 20 seconds or so.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:41 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
RabidChimp intake pipe installed! It's purdey
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I also started measuring the panhard rod, but the chassis side bolt is stuck and won't slide out, So I can't measure it's diameter. I think what I'll end up doing is ordering a new bolt from work, measuring that, then cutting out the old one. Here are the measurements:
Bolt center to bolt center (rod length): 29 1/4"
Axle-side end width: 1 3/8"
Axle-side hole size: 13/16"
Chassis-side end width: 1 3/8"
Chassis-side hole size: ????

Oh, and new radiator hoses are in, and new belts are on the way.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:27 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
Om nom nom nom.....
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Just gotta get some 3/8" oil hose, mount up the AE86 cooler, and it should be ready to go.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
Oil cooler is installed!

The AE86 cooler is ALMOST a direct bolt-in to the vertical hood latch support bracket. All you have to do in terms of modification is trim the upper oil cooler bracket like so:
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Then it bolts right in!
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It's a pretty tight fit around the filter, but it works. That little stub of hose on the bottom there is covering the end of the long alternator mounting bolt so the hoses don't rub on it.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:33 am
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
Nice work man! Its so great to see progress on a build.

This wagon is going to poo on all those haters out there! lol.

This should be one reliable daily after your blood, sweat & tears have finally gone in. Keep up the great work.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 12:53 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
It's been sharing daily driving duties pretty much split evenly with my AW11 for the last few weeks. It is leaking a bit of oil, but it's a 5M and that's sorta what they do. Other than that and a few intermittent starter hiccups, it's damn near perfect. Now it just needs moar low.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:43 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
Had a photoshoot with Felicia Noelle Photography. Here's the first batch of finished pics!
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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:44 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
9/29/13
More pics!
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... e0efbb.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... e9e5d6.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... 7175c1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... ddbf25.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... fdfebf.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... 83d808.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... be8332.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/S ... 259133.jpg

10/6/13
Removed the panhard rod to get the measurements to send to T3. The chassis side mount bolt was fused to the metal bushing sleeve, so I had to cut it out.
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I also finished refurbishing my P-Type wheels!
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And just as a reminder, this is what they looked like when I got them (on the left)
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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:55 pm
Posts: 87
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
This thread is awesome man. Those pictures of the interior reeeeaally makes me want to do the mani swap and rebuild on my x7. Minus the trans how much do you think the whole swap and engine rebuild cost you??


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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:30 am 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
Well I got the engine gasket kit from Summit for like $100, plus little bits and pieces here and there.
For the swap, I got a W58/clutch/flywheel/shifter/boot for $250. Flywheel ended up being for an R-series trans, so I found the right flywheel semi-locally for $50, plus $60 to resurface it. Add in new pilot bearing, new throw out bearing, new front and rear trans oil seals, a new slave cylinder, a couple quarts of Redline MT90, new drain plug/gasket and that rounds out the transmission costs. I got a bare-bones AE86 clutch pedal assembly super cheap from a friend that hoards AE86 for $8. Add to that a new pedal return springs and a few odds and ends, plus a new master cylinder from rockauto. Then the braided steel line from DriftMotion. Then the big one: custom driveshaft 3.5" longer than the stock one was $400. On a sedan this is unnecessary, as you can just swap out the Cressida front half for a Supra piece, but since the Wagon is a stock one-piece shaft, custom is the only way to do it.

I keep a spreadsheet on my laptop at home with all the money I've spent on the car, so I could give you an exact figure when I get home if you wanted.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:55 pm
Posts: 87
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
This seems about right from what I have been researching. Not too bad. There are a couple w58s in my area, was going to buy one that had the good shifter positioning but the guy flaked. Hardest part would seem to source that driveshaft.
If I had more tools and confidence maybe I'd take on the engine rebuild on my own. I don't trust the head gasket haha
The 5 speed looks soooo good in your car man, and the path you laid out with this build is very nice for people like myself. Very informal.
Best to you


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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:11 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
10/7/13
Supra wheels are on the car with tires mounted. Pics will come once I get the T3 panhard rod in and have the car back on the ground.

10/8/13
Ordered the panhard rod today. No idea when it will be here, but it can't be soon enough. Also, I found this picture on the interwebs (NOT MY CAR):

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That's pretty much EXACTLY the stance I want on mine! So seckseh.

She's still up on jackstands, but here's what the wheels look like on the car
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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:22 pm 
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Posts: 860
Location: Oklahoma City
T3 weld on coil overs(or comparable) and Camaro shocks and shorter springs in the rear... works on the celica and it will work on the cressida.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:46 am 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
I suppose what I really need to do is measure the upper and lower spring diameters. It tapers at the bottom, so the lower seat is smaller. I was looking at adapting a Megan or BC AE86 rear adjustable spring setup to work as well.

Do you have a link to the details on what the Celica guys do?

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:22 am 
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Well, I went with 275# springs and the T3 coil over kit for the front. I shortened my struts about 30mm to fit the AE92 inserts I was using. On the rear, I just chopped 2 coils off the top of the spring so it would still fit the seat on the axle. I then used Camaro shocks(either gen 3 or 4 will work) I did have to cut the bump stops in half to get back some travel. Car rides very stiff and not at all bouncy. On the cressida rear, try some place like pitstopusa.com and order custom springs. I believe the outside diameter is 5.5" don't know how long you would want them. My brain seems to think it is 8 or 11", but don't hold me to that. There used to be a great thread on toyotacressida.net, but that site is now gone.
I also believe that Nissan S13/14 stuff will bolt right to the lower control arm. I know that it bolts right to the MX63/2 lower control arm. That gives you the option of going all S13/14 stuff on the front and opens a whole new world to front suspension stuff. Check some of the tech threads at classic-celica.com for ideas. Here is how one did the rear of his Celica coupe
http://www.classic-celica.com/modules.p ... pic&t=1899

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 11:00 am 

Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:57 pm
Posts: 117
Location: RVA
I actually went and found that thread yesterday after you mentioned it. Very helpful! The issue with custom springs is that the bottom and top diameters on the Wagon rear springs are different. The bottom is much smaller than the top. As far as rates go, I know on my AW11 I'm running 250F/350R and the wagon is much heavier so I was gonna try and run 300F/350R or something like that.

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 Post subject: Re: 1986 MX72 Cressida Wagon Build: "Joby"
PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 860
Location: Oklahoma City
Yeah, but if you go with the adjustable perches like the celica guy did, the differences in the top and bottom of the spring are negated. On my celica, I cut from the top on the rear springs, which is what a few of the wagon guys have done. That way you keep the same diameter on the top and don't lose your spring on the first bump. The shorter shocks in the rear are really what help keep the spring captive anyway. On my celica, the shocks need to be disconnected before you even get close to freeing up the spring. I haven't been under the rear of my wagon in a couple of weeks. I am planning on spending all day on the wagon saturday, so I will look then. I would think that as long as the top fits around the bump stop, the actual diameter won't matter. So get a custom spring that fits the bottom mount and go from there. You could always build some sort of collar for the top to keep it centered if that is your worry. Also, look around in the tech forum over there are c-c.com as most of the suspension ideas will work for the wagon due to the celica having pretty much the same set up.

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