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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well I kept busy...

I have setup a clean "assembly room" using a spare bedroom in my basement that serve to pile things we're not using... way easier to keep clean than a workshop or garage ;)

Lost of stuff piling up

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And at the beginning of the week the temperatures were high enough for me to start painting...

Here is almost all the aluminium parts chilling on the floor while the paint cures enough before baking time

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The tranny...

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And the block :D

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Before painting, I thoroughly cleaned the whole engine block with varsol under pressure to prep the outside for paint and get the inside all shinny. I then proceeded to clean all the oil pass with shotgun brushes

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And for those who still wonder why, I left a small magnet at the bottom of the container I left under the block to receive the old varsol...

Before :
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After :
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And this is only the ferrous particles, no aluminium oxide from the lapping compound, or sand from the casting or abrasive particles from the honing stones. I filled 5 coffee filters with those crap afterward. Moral of the story, engines cannot be TOO clean before reassembly :)

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Mmmmmm Ketchup!

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The 7A is now officially destroked :D

[img]http://imageshack.us/a/img560/5006/i5bj.jpg/img]

And boy does it feel nice to spin a loose crank. It will almost spin a complete turn on it's own. I don't regret going with 0.0018" oil clearance.

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, I may not be machinist and I may not have the tooling but it doesn't stop me from trying...

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For those who didn't notice, that's a 15in press-drill

All for that...

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Where am I going with this? Crank pulley prototype... I told you guys I didn't trust crank mounted oil pump :D

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, didn't find anything better to do with my old 8" solid disk than to scavenge them for part to finish the crank pulley

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Just need to assemble it all. I'll take some pictures just to show how it's done but not tonight.

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Alright, the goal with the external pump is to KISS : "Keep It Simple Stupid". So I aim at having only one hose going from the oil pickup in the pan to the external pump and one other going from the external pump to the block. The easiest way of doing that is to try and use the stock oil system as much as possible. I gutted the rotor in my pump housing but will be using the housing to hold the crank seal and as an inlet to the oil system. I'll also use the stock oil pressure release valve to regulate the pressure as OEM. To do that, I'll use the 3/8BSPT fitting that was used to block the machining hole in the side of the pump and find a way to block the space in the housing between the rotor and the pressure release valve.

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To do that I recycled my old cheap spacer to machine an aluminum plug to fit in place

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And let the bugger chill in the freezer for the night.

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I then put the housing in the oven at 350° but if you're going to do that, leave less than 0.003" of interference between the plug and the hole... otherwise you'll end up with a welding job like me :(

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All that's left to do is machine the other side of the plug to allow the oil entering through the external fitting to reach the pressure release valve

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And that's it... I'm out of MAPP gas so I'll grab a bottle tomorrow and braze the crack... it sucks but at least it's on the good side and could've been wayyy worst.

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 12:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well sometimes you've got to take one step back before moving forward again : after bathing in oil for 20 years, their is no way to make the weld penetrate at all... so I'll start over with a "new-old" housing and leave less interference for it not to crack again.

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, a friend of mine is sending me an old oil pump so I can use the housing to redo that again...

So tonite I was a little pissed about all that (more about the half day I lost trying to braze the crap together) and seeing all that aluminum rod slip on the casing and make a puddle on the floor didn't help it. So I recycled again, picked up that crap from the floor and made some "home casting" of a new 1/2 plug (to be machined to specs afterwards)

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It is less neat than the "redneck billet" one but down there no one will notice... and it'll do the job more than enough

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, I finished machining the plug and while waiting for the oil pump, I welded my modified crank pulley.

First I drilled the disk that will serve as a belt guide.

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Then I spot welded it to the timing sprocket. I used 2 C-clamp to stop it from warping form the heat of the welding.

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Surface the thing to get it flat...

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...and weld the ring made out the old brake disk on top of the cut crank pulley

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All that's left is to align it spot on and weld it through the inside. The "guide ring" was machined 1mm oversize to be filled by welding. The weld looks like crap but if you can weld that deep inside a 1inch tube, you're a better welder than I am... luckily, penetration is excellent and I made a second pass full heat almost no wire just to be sure.

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That's it, all that's left to do is electroplate it with zinc and send it to get balanced.

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 2:51 pm 

Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 8:28 pm
Posts: 180
Location: COSTA RICA, CENTRAL AMERICA.
great project :tu:


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:20 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Oakland, CA
I have a question about your ae86 suspension set up ( sorry I know I'm late but I just joined the forums.) I re read your post about the suspension set up but could not understand the recipe. You used ae86 LCA or the stock Le ones? I want to use ae86 suspension parts on my TE31 I was wondering if you could give me any advice on what parts are compatible. Thanks in advance

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1997 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro 5 Spd
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 4 Spd. - Build Thread = viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22584


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
On a TE31, lower strut bolt spacing should be 85mm, same as AE86. Just get yourself a complete AE86 strut and spring and swap the top perch for your TE one. It should bolt on to your current knuckles so you can keep the rest of the front suspension stock. If you find a set of p/s AE86 knuckles, they are shorter than your TE so it should equals to quicker steering and better angle.

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1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:20 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Oakland, CA
Tommy wrote:
On a TE31, lower strut bolt spacing should be 85mm, same as AE86. Just get yourself a complete AE86 strut and spring and swap the top perch for your TE one. It should bolt on to your current knuckles so you can keep the rest of the front suspension stock. If you find a set of p/s AE86 knuckles, they are shorter than your TE so it should equals to quicker steering and better angle.



Dude that clears up a lot... Thank you! Also shouldn't the ps knuckles already come with the ae86 strut assembly? Or is that a whole different part? What happens if I can't find them? Can I use the te31 ones? Also how would I go about lowering the rear? I was thinking 3" blocks is that too much? Thanks for your help by the way!

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1997 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro 5 Spd
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 4 Spd. - Build Thread = viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22584


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:37 am 
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 5:09 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Netherlands
With yours skills you need definately a lathe! Then projects like this come faster off your hands. Nice idea's :tu:

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Carina TA12, Starlet EP70(sold) and EP71, Mitsubishi Lancer CS9W


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
FishEye wrote:
Dude that clears up a lot... Thank you! Also shouldn't the ps knuckles already come with the ae86 strut assembly? Or is that a whole different part? What happens if I can't find them? Can I use the te31 ones? Also how would I go about lowering the rear? I was thinking 3" blocks is that too much? Thanks for your help by the way!


You can use stock TE31 knuckles, the balljoint is the same and so should the distance between both lower strut bolt. For the rear, you can either de-arch the leaf pack, get a new one made or use lowering block. What I'll do is de-arch the leaf first and then put a lowering block if you need to go lower. When using a block, you increase the arm lever on the leaf and axle hop will happen faster with less torque.


Toyohead wrote:
With yours skills you need definately a lathe! Then projects like this come faster off your hands. Nice idea's :tu:



Yeah, this is the 3rd time in 2 days than someone on a forum says this ;) . I'm going to say it again here, my work space is 5'x7' and I don't have a garage... I'm planning to sell this house in 3 years and the other one will definatly have a nice big garage to serve as workshop. Then I'll get a lathe for sure but until then, my press-drill will also be a lathe, mill and resurfacing tool for space reasons :D

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:20 pm
Posts: 42
Location: Oakland, CA
Thank you so much tommy! I appreciate your help! I acknowledge your commitment to building these cars. Can't wait to see your Tom-age all built up and running!

_________________
1997 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro 5 Spd
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 4 Spd. - Build Thread = viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22584


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Thanks :)

And while were at it, little update!

All shinny !!!

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_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Well, I got a hold of a couple other oil pump so I went on to identify those and decided to take a couple picture if it can help others here.

So there you have it : Bluetop pump - redtop/20v pump - 7A pump
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From the front, apart from the fact that the FE engine has a different line for the timing belt cover, nothing can differentiate the other 2 pumps apart.

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Now it's easier to differentiate the bluetop pumps, the back cover is very different... the 7A and redtop rear cover is interchangeable (I mixed them up because one was in worst condition than the other, you just need to check the rotor gap)

And this is why : the bluetop pump has a square tooth design that is known to be inferior and tend to crack because of the crank's harmonics at high RPM, the redtop and 7A pumps have the same sinus wave design

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And a close up reveal that they are both the same dia and number of waves...

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But the red top rotor is wider, providing extra flow for the piston squirter (bluetop pump has the same thickness as the 7A pump)

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So there you have it. I decided to clean the redtop and store it for the future... since I'm gutting the pump and using only the housing for the pressure release and the front seal, might as well "scrap" the least desirable pump so I used the bluetop one...

Here are the modifications :

Plug with under 0.003" interference, I dump a couple drops of red lock tight on top and presurized the inside for it to move down if their was a crack or something... now it's really oil tight ;)

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And just to be sure that the plug doesn't go flying at 70+ psi of pressure, I made it a little too long so it won't get past the inner lip of the stock pump rotor so even if it moves down it will not move out of the hole... and I drilled and taped a hole in the side with a little bolt red locktighted in just for good measure ;)

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And there you have it, anaerobic sealer is curing and I'll wash it well before bolting it in front of the tom-age

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And in other news, my crank pulley is getting balanced but my machinist didn't have to tooling to overbore my rod small end so I either find someone else who can or try it myself... although I don't think my redneck machining with a press drill process is good enough for piston wrist pin soooo....

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 5:09 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Netherlands
Nice topic!

I allways grind the pressure plate nice flat on the oil pumps i get at hand with rebuilds (water or oil and fine grinding paste on a glass surface)

And in the release valve: strech the spring somewhat for a slightly higher pressure at idle. Now i have 50% higher pressure a idle with my 2efe build.

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Carina TA12, Starlet EP70(sold) and EP71, Mitsubishi Lancer CS9W


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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 109
Location: Montreal, Canada
Yeah, I always resurface everything on a flat glass... except for that oil pump, I took the cover off and threw the gears in the recycle bin ;)

Anyway, more custom work tonite. My stock dash is only equiped with a dummy light for the oil pressure... that will not do so I bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge to fit in a pod. Since the port for the stock sender is in front of the block under the exhaust, the plastic tube or any rubber hose is not a viable option... and SS braided hose are way over rated (read expensive for what they are). Plus the stock port is 1/8 BSPT and my fitting for the gauge are 1/8 NPT (like 99% of them)... sooo here's what I did :

I took the 7A pressure switch that is already threaded to fit the block and ripped everything inside. I grabbed an old dry brake hose from my old front brakes and cut two female M10 flared fitting for 3/16 line. I welded one of them inside the old switch and bended a brake line...

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...all the way to the back of the block to the second flared fitting that is welded to a small bracket an to a 1/2" shaft that I drilled and tapped with 1/8 NPT to be able to bolt the fitting and plastic hose there right trougth the firewall... out of the way from the cherry red header.

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That's it, just need to clean everything up and zinc plate all of it while I finish reassembling my second head. Things are moving along!

_________________
1977 Toyota Corolla TE31 (traded)
1974 Toyota Corolla KE20 (Project)
2003 Toyota Celica ZZT230 (Daily)


Last edited by Tommy on Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: "Project Turquoise" KE20 build
PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:51 pm 

Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 5:46 am
Posts: 29
Location: New Jersey
what kind of rear are you going to go with for this build?


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