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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
KresSlyda180 wrote:
Jeez... I haven't been on here for AWHILE, but I didn't want to come back to see RT's Toyota totalled by some jackass. :(

I'm sorry for your loss, dude. Actually, is it still drivable? It looks like it can still be repaired, by the right person.

Back in '92 when I owned my '82 Corolla SR5 1.8 coupe... I went to jail for a lil over 2 months for a stupid fine. Well, long story short, I let this girl borrow my Yota... and she let her junky older sister borrow it. She ended up getting rear ended by a friggin school bus. :shock:

Anyways, they gave her $500 to give to me for the accident(yeah, like THAT would cover it) :roll: ... I live in the lovely state of ASSACHUSETTS, so minimum coverage is the norm around here, since full coverage is up the wazoo... I didn't have collision on it.

Well, I gave my buddy with a '75 Celica GT, a genuine FOHA Corolla front spoiler if he could fix my car... he took a friend's pickup truck, threw a chain around my Yota's tow hook and pulled that mofo till the ass end straightened back into it's proper position. All it needed was some metal panel reinforcements and a wheel alignment. It needed new quarter panels, anyway... because the original ones were rusty to shit. I bought an '83 SR5 show car(actually, ricecar... because it had a neon blue paint job with pink neon splash stripes along the length of the car... apparently, the neon splash stripes were the thing around '91, for the minitruckers and sport compact scene. lol), for $100 from a junkyard and replaced my Yota's dented quarter panels with the ones on the '83 parts car. :lol:

So don't give up on your Rona, you just gotta find the right bodyman to tackle the job. Good Luck, mate. :wink: :tu:


it's still drivable, no problems with that but with reagrds to repair, I think i'm better off just getting another donor car or buy another one but don't have the extra funds for now.

Well, Today, I tried to do that with a chain and it didn't work out. The top part i was able to pull but the chassis is too far bent that it's twisted so bad that when I checked underneath the chassis arch(where the rear axle) I found out it is also bent. The back just really went down. Like I wrote earlier, the rear doors won't even close as it's really pushed down:(.

If I had the money, I could have gotten another '78 corona but it's not gonna happen for now.

I have some things cooking but it will not be a corona.....a different one this time....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
After debating if I should get another 105 and with budget constraints, I decided to buy back my former te27 and another one that my friend has...

First to be home was the project race te27 already set for solo autocross(suspension that is) and with an early 2tg engine....Shes' been gutted thoroughly and missing a lot of trims(lgihts,glass and the whole shbang.)


We'll see. i'll keep you guys posted...
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w/ d 15x8 xxr's from my corona
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http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/bong101/1972te27/

'73 track car:
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http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/b ... 73%20te27/


Last edited by Rt105Bong on Sun Jan 02, 2011 3:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
Image

excuse the ghetto rig start up. need a new ignition assembly. So far replaced the fuel pump. rebuilt the carbs but will need a new carbs soon as the carbs is also ghetto built:) primary is the only one running. secondary is disabled.

somehow, there is a ticking sound. will check valve clearances on it.

next will be the tranny. it kicks big time when you put it on drive....might have to flush it and replace the filter.

not yet road worthy coz of the tranny..... steering box and linkage system. lots of things to do still.

new vid with better valve clearance adjustment...much quieter this time.

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:28 am 

Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:49 pm
Posts: 505
Location: snohomish, washington
I'm kind of liking the look of the race car one as it is.

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86 AE86- need fenders, lights, rear bumper, Hood, seats, interior knobs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
liquid51 wrote:
I'm kind of liking the look of the race car one as it is.


me too. I like the '73 better. It's gonna be my new ghetto car....

lately, been working on my twins. been replacing the tie-rods and pitman arm on the white corolla. I also started to take apart the 78 corona and the first to go was the flares. Again, a flash of thought raced into me and I wondered what it would look like on the '73. I have plans of getting a copy fb te27 flares when I have extra funds but thought I'd check first how it would look like.


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got the flares bolted in: a little bit more trimming..
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Last edited by Rt105Bong on Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:44 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:49 pm
Posts: 505
Location: snohomish, washington
I like I like I'm really jealous of you dude. The more I see that raced out one the more I fall in love with it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
at first when I tried the mock set-up...I thought it doesn't look good but upon looking at it over and over again, It kind of grows on you. I'm beginning to like it. We'll see as time goes by. This will be a long term project this time....

As d=for the other baby, made some headway on the white te27. was able to replaced all tie-rods and installed a new pitman arm and now the stearing is much better. Still some clunk on the box. looks like it may need replacement:(. The auto tranny grinds when put in reverse.

Will a later model TExx 3tc auto trans a drop in job? or shall I go with the manual??? I do have the engine and trans from my 78 corona...Nah! seems like a lot of fab work making the 20r fit the corolla...

So many things to think about and decide which is best and economical way to do it.....

Also got this very cool trade with a friend of mine.... a pair of MOMO's.
Traded him two toys from my collection, a 1/10 scale lego ferrari f1 and my 1/12 scale built JPS Lotus F1.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:57 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:49 pm
Posts: 505
Location: snohomish, washington
For sure swap in a mans tran. You will love it even if it is the 4 speed t40 engine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
Just an update on my new build...Sorry but this is a cut an paste job from other forums...

Here's my current build atm. It's a '73 te27.

When I got the car:
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Current state of the car:
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Car will stay as it is and instead will be filling in gaps (loose pieces,missing parts etc) as I go. With the current set up, gonna use it for tracks event again and hone in my driving skills(I suck at it) :mrgreen: .

now onto the engine build...

When I got it, I really don't know what was done to the engine aside from knowing that it had a lightened flywheel when i got it started. it was very rev happy engine...but then I noticed that there is a sound like it had loose valves or knocking on the engine.
So I go checked the valve clearances and found out #3&4 was way over specified spec clearance. Way over the 3mm shim allowed. Was informed to do a leak down test and sure enough #3 & 4 was at 0psi! #1 was @ 100psi but it's also bent. the only good cylinder was #2 @160psi

Out with the Head!!! LOL!

Took it down and checked that #1,3 & 4 have bent valves.
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Scored camshaft bearings on both in/ex.. not good.
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Regrind cams? don't know the profile but is stamped EURO?
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What's wrong with this picture? lol! won't recommend using it....
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New SI Valves!!!
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Comparison of EARLY 88220 VALVES w/ new SI valves
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Time to head to the machine shop....
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Thrust bearing washer was very loose as well:
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The good so far: Baffle already installed or windage tray..
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Crankshaft weighs in at 31 lbs.
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Wonder what the CR of this piston...looks stock psitons.
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underside shot of the of 2t block. Now I know why you have to grind off so much material when putting in a 3t crank. Thank god I didn't do it. It would have taken me forever! LOL!
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so many things that could go wrong with this motor did go wrong. And more $$$$ out! Ouch! On the bright side, once I get the engine running again on a good note, i'm gonna be one happy camper:)

So far, still need to go to the machine shop and see if the valve are good for the head. Worried about it too close to the spark plug hole. Once it get seated properly it will be too close for comfort. Don't know how will they do it but i'll leave it up to the experts.
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Here are some shot of the inner block bore: Hope it's still good or i'm screwed!!!
#1 & 2
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#3 & 4:
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While waiting for the machine to finish the putting the new valves and chcking the block and all, I decided to tackle the suspension and clean it out and detail the engine bay.


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after: Replaced the bushing with polyurethanes.
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te27 struts:
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Koni special D adjustables: wont fit on te27 casing so was able to get from my ra21 parts car it's casing and it fits perfectly.
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Ra21 strut fitted with Koni adj.
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Somehow, the control arm hole was widened or elongated as well. I guess this was to increase camber.
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More things I found out. The te27 strut casing is longer than the ra21. see pics below.
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here's a pic of a stock insert from my te27.
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Here's what they have in common aside from the differences in height ,bore diameter and spindle size.

-Knuckles are interchangeable
-dust shield are the same
- same brake caliper( have not really look close but very close)

Got the block cleaned and honed and the crank polished. Did a valve relief on the pistons. one piston has a cut close to the edge which make me worry but I was assured by the shop it will be ok. see pic below.
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assembled the bottom end. Now it has new clevite bearings and hastings rings. Took me awhile to source out the rings. I was told it's from a z24 datsun rings size thickness...?? Here's the bottom end:

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Got the head head from the shop. Came out really nice.
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Now, the wait for the Cometic gasket begins...While waiting for it couldn't help but do a dress mock up of the motor...been doing some detailing work on the parts.
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44 sidedraft mikuni
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Had them check cam lift as well: Intake @.410" or 10.4mm lift Exhaust @ .412" or 10.5mm lift. Don't know the duration.
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Also have three intake to choose from: Top one is what the motor had and the other two bottom ones are from the spares I have from other engines. Two bottom ones have been worked on. sow, would it be good idea to polish and make the intake bigger???
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:30 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:49 pm
Posts: 505
Location: snohomish, washington
Dude that is amazing. I'm jealous, should have kept it that ratty look though. I would say go with a port and polish, gasket matching and everything. Try to make the intake and exhaust flow as smooth as humanly possible.

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86 AE86- need fenders, lights, rear bumper, Hood, seats, interior knobs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
Cometic HG is in! Will be using a 3tc MLS HG.
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differences between a 2tg and 3tc HG. 3tc has water holes while 2tg has not.
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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update...rvid clip of2tg run
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
Finally, got the engine running but still a long ways to go. Heres a raw vid clip of the motor running. Very loud coz i don't have any resonator in. Had t cut it and remove headers so I can install the engine. Not easy doing it by yourself:) lol.

Bled the brakes and clutch and also took it or a spin. have to make adjustment on the linkages as it get stuck.

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/b ... CN1227.mp4

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update....pg.9
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:25 pm 
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Location: Tucson, Az
a little update, been doing some small improvements on the car here n there:

Flares are on now so will just need to fasten it then some FB n bondo work on the flares. Lmk what u guys think
Image

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New MOMO steering wheel:
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used sparco juniors:
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with Sabelt harness:
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engine need more tuning and I think my distributor is acting up so i may need a replacement soon. will need to install a new exhaust system.
will keep u guys posted.


Finally, after 15 yrs of hibernation, she's back on the road again. this pic was taken at MVD for initial inspection for bonded title. Runs ok on the way with some hiccups due to faulty distributor. sputter when throttle is applied on higher revs...
She's a fifteen footer, meaning. she looks good from 15ft. LOL.
Image

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update....pg.9
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:08 am 
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Location: Sisterdale, Texas
great work :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update....short vid clip run
PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:12 pm 
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Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
Was able to sort out the dizzy problem. Now she runs much better.... here's a short vid clip run of the car. I need a new camera mount as the cam moved a lot, lol.

A walk thru around the car:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP6buZizpyU

The drive run....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJBRbrg-T4c

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update....short vid clip run
PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:19 am 
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Location: Sisterdale, Texas
engine sounds really good 8)

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 and 2tg rebuild Update....short vid clip run
PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
little update. just added an VW mk1 duck bill spoiler. Car is running good so far. although, every now and then it get the hiccups on the top end. it would suddenly flood or bog down but on other time is doesn't do it??? Might need a fuel regulator. I'm using a solid state electronic fuel pump with 3-7 psi.

here's the mods done to the car:
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i also might be getting a cople of rt52 '69 corona's soon:) One is all stock with Hayashi wheel and another ghetto racer with 18rg!!!

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 update...now/ VW mk1 duck bill.
PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 7:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
been awhile since i posted something here so just a quick update.

Blew motor:( . got some new Wiseco pistons 10:5 Cr . Unfortunately havent had time to put it back together. Time being, got an opportunity for a trade for one of my 20r motor laying around(came off my rt105) for a roll cage for the te27.

here's some pics.

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Pack rat got into the seat lol but side bar looks great.
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Gonna have to redo the whole interior and clean it up. Currently been working on one of my other project.
'70 rt52. Click on link below for that build but here's a pic of it.

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Last edited by Rt105Bong on Mon May 27, 2013 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 update...now/ VW mk1 duck bill.
PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 11:57 am 

Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2010 11:09 am
Posts: 117
Location: Richfield, MN
Im subscribing the FARK outta this! This build is awesome thats one of the most beautiful 2t-c's ive ever seen

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 Post subject: Re: bong's TE27 update...now/ VW mk1 duck bill.
PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:15 pm
Posts: 243
Location: Tucson, Az
J3wman wrote:
Im subscribing the FARK outta this! This build is awesome thats one of the most beautiful 2t-c's ive ever seen


Thanks for the compliment:). Engine is actually a 2TG twin cam and not a 2t-C;). So yeah I hope to put back the engine by summers end. I"ll keep you guys posted.

For now, just happy with the new cage and thought i'd put an update on this build.

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