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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:47 am
Posts: 406
Location: Pac NW
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I expect the 2nd attempt to be far better.

Image



Well.... it took me forever... but The J160 is now test fitted (no clutch inside the bell housing). Being early summer, many of my helpers are busy, and so I had to figure this one out for myself.

The first thing I had to do was find a lifting point* that is steady.... there isn't one on the bottom of the J160, the LEEN adapter, although flat, is too far forward of the balance point, so I had to improvise.........

* - normally this isn't an issue when I'm using a T50, the T50 is just light enough for me to man handle in and out, well the J160 is another 25#s, just too heavy for me to man handle


Borrowing from my early fabrication (fuel and wiring location) I again used a bit of wood :eek:

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besides the pieces on the jack, if you are sharp eyed you'll see the spine of the transmission nestles into the top block of wood. Using some of my old woodworking tools, I cut, and shaped a 2x4 block so that it fit the transmission case casting.


With a somewhat steady lifting point, I raise the transmission into place....

Image

you can just barely see the wood supporting it all at the edge of the photo. I run a couple of engine/trans bolts in, and snug them down.

I look to see if all of my measurements, and fabrication of the body look good....

here the shifter cup just clears the cross member
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Here the radius-ed chassis, and selector rod clearance
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It all looks good... VERY good actually :D :D



So the mounting holes are determined...., drilled, adjusted a bit for accuracy....

A few views of a LEEN J160 neatly nestled into the transmission tunnel of an AE71 :thumbsup:

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Image

I DO plan on reinforcing this... my idea for this is welding a metal spine along each side of the plate - along the line I drawn. Note that the spine will join the drop and support it as well. Also note the dark triangle shaped marker area on the right side... that will be material removed so the speedo cable has clearance.


before....

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after......

:D :D


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That's enough for today, I"ll remove the mount tomorrow, bring it to David for finalizing, and reinforcing.

I'll also have to remove the transmission and get the new clutch in there.... so more to come :D

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 1:48 pm 
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Posts: 406
Location: Pac NW
So... now that there is a new transmission, we need a driveshaft. A few months back XNC (Johnny) hooked me up with a front half of a W5x driveshaft from a Supra.

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I hadn't noticed @ that time the fact that the front section are the same length.

Before I installed the 2 transmissions, I performed one "test" that I was not able to photograph.

Having both transmission sitting on their bell housings... I slipped the driveshaft from the W5 into the J160, and I slipped the T50 driveshaft into the T50. Using my tape measure to measure from the edge of the starter(remember both have the same bell) back to the flange where the 2 driveshafts bolt together.....

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The difference......... all of 3/8" :shock: :shock:

The J160 + Supra front shaft = 3/8" longer then the T50 + T50 shaft.... so I brought both up to this place - http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp and they will shorten the Supra shaft 3/8", add a new carrier bearing*, and balance the whole assembly


* - https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Center+Supports part number 2380-40

It should be ready either Friday(6/29), or Monday(7/2)....

more to come :D

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:47 am
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Location: Pac NW
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:mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:47 am
Posts: 406
Location: Pac NW
from another forum wrote:
So I've been wondering. How's the 6speed working out?

(btw interiors looking good)


Well... with the S series 3.58 final drive... in reality... I don't need any gears beyond the first 4 :thumbsdown:


Sooooooo... its time to swap in a final drive more appropriate. Here is Richmond Racing's 3.9 T series diff...... (originally for Legends/Dwarf cars) fitted into a GT-S housing.

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The Richmond is assembled with zenki spider gears... so zenki axles are the call. The emergency brake cables need a fabricated bracket on the driverside(thank you Jesse), and a zip tie around the axle hop line mount to secure the passenger side cable.


Now... along with the diff, I have to swap in a different brake proportioning valve, because instead of drum brakes... I'm now running rear discs.

Image


Doing some research All AE86 drum brake cars use valve 22040, while the GT-S uses valve 12040. I then look up my car, and low and behold, the valve is the same as a drum brake AE86 - 22040. So even though I have a different master cylinder, AND the proportioning valve is mounted slightly lower, the lines will not have to be customized to fit the GT-S valve! So I remove the drum brake valve, and swap in the GT-S valve. Then I go about bleeding the brakes. At this point brake bleeding can be a REAL pain... because there is no longer any fluid in the master OR the proportioning valve... so I go about palm bleeding. What is palm bleeding??? You fill the master most of the way, and you put your palm over the reservoir and work your hand like you would a toilet plunger.... This slowly pumps the fluid through the master, and the proportioning valve allowing me to circulate the fluid without having to pump the brake pedal, or use a power bleeder.


All new TRD suspension bushings will tighten up the whole rear end keeping the axle properly placed under the back of the car. Many folks don't know but there is a right way... and a wrong way to install TRD suspension bushings....... Care was used to install the bushings correctly.


More to come....... :D

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:48 am
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Location: Montreal, Canada
Nice work buddy !

If you still have that 3.58:1 S type diff kicking around, a friend of mine with a 3RZ-FZE swapped AE86 would be glad to take if off your hands ;) Let me know !

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:26 am 
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Location: Pac NW
Tommy wrote:
Nice work buddy !

If you still have that 3.58:1 S type diff kicking around, a friend of mine with a 3RZ-FZE swapped AE86 would be glad to take if off your hands ;) Let me know !


Image

I do... I'm asking $120 - http://hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33112 I'm also hoping for a local buyer because shipping this will be a royal pain....

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:04 pm 
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Location: Montreal, Canada
Yeah I do understand... if you even want to part it out, the ring gear (or the whole center since it's easier to disassemble) would be the only thing my friend needs. I'll let him know anyway just in case.

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:58 pm 

Joined: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:09 pm
Posts: 7
Location: midwest
question...i'm a total newb right now in the planning/researching stage. with the J160 tranny, what other driveshaft would fit into it? pardon me but please avoid using OE codes like W55/T50 etc. b/c I have not a clue at this moment and wouldn't be able to keep up. my situation is this, i'm looking to acquire one of the many BEAMS engines on ebay for my RT52 corona project. Only a few of them include the driveshaft and those are ones that are not in the best looking condition and/or they also come with a whole bunch of other stuff that I don't want. I want to get just the engine/trans but am worried of not being able to figure out what driveshaft to use. can you please shed some light? thanks. Ray


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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:20 pm 
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Location: Pac NW
Rayman wrote:
question...i'm a total newb right now in the planning/researching stage. with the J160 tranny, what other driveshaft would fit into it? pardon me but please avoid using OE codes like W55/T50 etc. b/c I have not a clue at this moment and wouldn't be able to keep up. my situation is this, i'm looking to acquire one of the many BEAMS engines on ebay for my RT52 corona project. Only a few of them include the driveshaft and those are ones that are not in the best looking condition and/or they also come with a whole bunch of other stuff that I don't want. I want to get just the engine/trans but am worried of not being able to figure out what driveshaft to use. can you please shed some light? thanks. Ray


Is your Corona a 5spd? Yes? The yoke from a 5spd Corona should fit the J160 trasmission. Length you may need to have a driveline shop customize the length

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 4:54 pm 

Joined: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:09 pm
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Location: midwest
I don't know. It has a 5spd shift knob on it but I didn't think a 68 corona came with 5....the car is in pieces.

Would you mind taking a straight on shot of the yoke and/or output shaft with a ruler so I can see the diameter and count the splines? Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:31 am 
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Location: Pac NW
Rayman wrote:
I don't know. It has a 5spd shift knob on it but I didn't think a 68 corona came with 5....the car is in pieces.

Would you mind taking a straight on shot of the yoke and/or output shaft with a ruler so I can see the diameter and count the splines? Thanks.


I wouldn't mind... if it wasn't all assembled and installed. The yoke I used was from a 1982 Supra

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:15 pm 

Joined: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:09 pm
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Location: midwest
OK thanks for the info. Do you know of others that might fit too?


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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:08 am 
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Location: Pac NW
Rayman wrote:
OK thanks for the info. Do you know of others that might fit too?


70s-80s 5spd Corona, Celica I know use a W5x gearbox. What I don't know is if all the yokes are the same.

That is why I said the specific car I got mine from

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:58 am 
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Posts: 406
Location: Pac NW
some recent updates.....

1) I FINALLY managed to come across a pair of the plain interior door panels I desired....

Image

with the plain blue interior now installed, I plain further.... the rear seat clashes with the Recaros, and I've looked, and can't find matching material. So I plan for the removal of the rear seat.....


first I draw the concept....
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then I transfer the concept to C.A.D. (cardboard aided design)
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and finally to wood
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here is a view with the old carpet, new carpet will be cut to appropriately fit the enclosure
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AND.........


Besides working on finishing the rear enclosure.... I managed to come across some Cibie headlamps.





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I sent an email to Daniel Stern Lighting.....

and now for a brief history lesson :D

Daniel Stern Lighting wrote:
You bought a set of Cibie BOBI headlamps. BOBI stands for "Bloc Optique à Ballon Incoloré", which is French for "Headlamp unit with clear balloon". Remove the bulb and you'll see a glass balloon separates the bulb chamber from the space between the lens and the reflector. This is what is meant by "Bulb-type sealed beam". These are not European-code headlamps; they are US-spec headlamps that were briefly available in the early 1980s until the US domestic sealed-beam industry hollared bloody murder ("THAT'S NOT A SEALED BEAM!!!") and the US Federal Department of Transportation, in the spirit of market protection, hastily rewrote the rules to define a replaceable-bulb sealed beam out of the regulations. The space between the glass balloon and the headlamp lens is filled with helium. The idea was to combine the corrosion resistance of a sealed beam with the optical efficiency and convenience of replaceable bulbs. There were two or three different versions of the 200mm x 142mm BOBI lamp with substantially different lens optics and bulb clocking. These are not bad lamps, but all of them produce a very American beam pattern (central hot spot with wings, not a European-code cutoff-and-upsweep or cutoff-and-upstep beam. For best performance use an Osram 70/65w bulb ($21.59/ea here).

Some BOBI lamps take a standard H4 bulb; others have a ridge in the bulb seat and a matching notch in the modified-special-H4 bulb (in the latter case, grind down the bulb seat ridge to use standard H4 bulbs).


"that were briefly available in the early 1980s" - making them period correct for Surreptitious... :D






yesterday I found a Cibie catalog dating from 1985.... I took a screen capture to show the differences between E code, and bobi/Z-beams

Image

view on left is light pattern on a wall in front of car, view on right is light pattern as viewed from above


more to come...... 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:28 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:31 pm 
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Location: Coarsegold California (around fresno)
I wandered upon your thread again. It has been a while, so I re-read it again. I love some of the ideas you have incorporated in your car. Some of which I have planned to do with mine, and so others I now plan to do. I am after the same kind of Light, performing, sporty car that you are. I look forward to seeing what you do next.

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:47 am
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Location: Pac NW
Another eternity since an update.... sorry.

Even years (2010, 2012, now 2014) are the years that my car must be emissions capable to go through and get registered...

Back in 2010, Drift Office in Auburn managed to get her passed emissions... with a 6mm hole in the intake :shock:

Two years later (2012) she failed on her first try, and I had PSI try their hand @ tuning her... they were a bit less successful then Drift Office, but a new cat helped get her through....

2014 - Its time for inspection again... Loynings has a go at tuning her. They put her on their steady state dyno and tune her to have AFRs in the 12.5 to 13 range. I take her through, and she promptly fails 1100HC, 5.0CO - similar numbers to when PSI attempted. She goes back into Loynings, they move idle timing to 2 degree BTDC, and open up the throttle body a little to compensate for the timing. I take her back through and she passes!!!

Not super clean @ 214HC and 0.455CO, but clean enough. And now there is an added benefit... she seems to idle well now....

so well that during the test... the cooling fan came on... and she not only didn't stall, she still passed emissions even with the fan on :tu:


Took her out and enjoyed the nice sunny day... on our way home we encountered an AMG C36... he went home less happy....... :P :P

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:54 pm 
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Location: Hong Kong
Always did love these cupe's ever since I was a kid living in Malaysia and then Bahrain. I had the little black/orange Tomica TE71 and it was by far one of my very favorite toy cars.
This hot rod version is just plain stunning!! :P
Okay, I don't totally agree with the bumperless front or the small modern door mirrors, but that's really nitpicking. The car is awesome and the attention to detail equally so.
Haha... would have loved to see the facial expression on the C36 driver as "an old 'yota" left him in its wake... :lol: :lol: :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:04 pm 
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Location: Pac NW
Anders... I came from the world of "vintage" Mustangs, back in the early 90s** I restored a 1970 428SCJ Mach 1 Mustang (only 2671 made, out of total production of 190,000+ total units)...

The people who "goverened" that hobby, the MCA (Mustang Club of America) had different views about restore, or resto-mod... have you ever driven an old Mustang... they drive like trucks, especially with 800# enge/transmissions laying on top of the front wheels...

ANYWAY... I chose to find a car that wasn't a classic, at least not in 1994... and that was an AE86 GTS. I owned 2... and by the time the 2000s hit the AE86 was already destined to be an "emerging classic" (so said Hemmings Motors News in Feb 07)... so another car too valuable to play with...

So I moved to the AE86s, less loved, slightly lighter older brother... the rest you know....

Here is a mostly complete list of the cars I've owned...
Image


A bit of an update.... :wink:



Remembering... Surreptitious goes to Loynings, and is tuned on their steady state dyno. Off to DEQ(emissions testing) and fails.... I bring her back in, they make a few adjustments, I go back to DEQ... 214 HC, 0.447 CO - She passes and no new cat required this time.... :)


Now as far as daily performance.... She idles...(between 1000 and 1100) she idles and doesn't stall when coming to a stop... she idles with all the installed electrical draws on (lights, wipers, heater fan, 100 watt fog lamps) she even idled with the cooling fan on @ the inspection station without stalling or stumbling while the test was being performed...

This tune is only a few days old... but so far it has inspired some new confidence...


from another forum wrote:

so uhh...after the new tune....whats the power look like :) ?


WOT was never a problem... she always (with one exception) planted great power...

What is odd... I'm only running 2 BTDC degrees of ignition timing... :eek:


OPINION:
They did the reverse of what I thought to be needed..... I figured more timing (not less) would make it want to idle up.... What they did was feed in the less timing and they opened up the throttle plate a touch. With the throttle plate open, this lowers the pressure in the manifold... and so when there is a change like vacuum being drawn to run the brakes... or a alternator puts a load on the system there is less pressure change in the manifold... less pressure change, less unstable idle.... and so it idles pretty well under loads now.


The above is the change after the failed inspection....

BEFORE the failed inspection... They did a lot of changes in the map... the fuel map especially. If you remember Bob had set the original fuel map as best he could... but with a 6mm hole in the manifold he did the best he could. Once i found the hole, and fixed it I DEPENDED on the self learning feature to "fix" the fuel map. Well... now she has a dedicated fuel map built on a steady state dyno to keep AFRs(between 12.5 and 13) in the peak range to make power, and protect the "fragile" OEM cast pistons from detonation.


So, back to the car.... with my new found trust in her overall character... and to signify her change from temperamental toy :( ... into reliable, dependable toy :)

She gets her first new set of wipers in over 5 years a set of Anco Aero Advantage..... Why??

Image





Now that she runs well besides wipers working, I felt it is time to finish up the parking brake.

oldeskewltoy wrote:
The emergency brake cables need a fabricated bracket on the driverside(thank you Jesse), and a zip tie around the axle hop line mount to secure the passenger side cable.


Back almost a year ago when the GTS diff went in we had been successful in finding mounting points for the heavy cables... but the small bracket inside the trans tunnel used to support the front where they come together was about 1" too far forward to actually be useful...


so today we (Jesse and I) removed the bracket from its original location, reversed its position - to make mounting in the new location easier...

Image


Now that the cables are supported front and rear, I can finish up with the handle. Anyone have a spare GTS parking brake handle? Josh informs me the GTS has a different fulcrum shape for the cable to ride in... and MAY be required to use GTS calipers and cables...

OR... I can figure a way to lengthen the single cable about 3/4" to fit.

oldeskewltoy wrote:

OR... I can figure a way to lengthen the single cable about 3/4" to fit.


Image

I should have kept the lengthening to 3/4", I did about 1 1/4"(length of threads) and although it now works, I have little room left for further adjustment...

If/when that time occurs that it is out of adjustment, I'll cut off the bindings and place the two sections a bit tighter together...

but for now... we have a working parking brake.....

Image

NOW... maybe I can think about carpeting, and the remainder of the interior....


... and so now begins the beginning of the end of this build... :D

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 Post subject: Re: Surreptitious
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 2:44 am
Posts: 69
Location: Denmark, Europe
Which cables have You used from The splitter backwards for your gts conversion?

I have tried ae86 gt cables for my conversion, but the outer cable is too short.

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