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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 8:28 am 
Mild Cam
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 1678
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Wow, amazing work! Soon you will be beyond body work and then we'll get to find out which (proper Izuzu) engine you'll be running in this beast!

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1980 Toyota Celica
1984 Porsche 911
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Ex-JNCs: 1980 Datsun 510, 1979 Mazda RX-7, 1986 Mazda RX-7, 1992 Mazda Miata
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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:13 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Thanks for the comments guys! I disappeared for a bit to head home for the holidays, but I got back a couple of days ago and now I'm getting back into the swing of things! Thermos, you're more than welcome to swing by the shop anytime, just let me know and I'll try to clean it up a bit for ya, haha. Camshaft, I'm excited to find out which engine I'll be running too! I have no idea which engine I want to run as they both need parts that are just a pain to source. Of course, I'll deal with that after paint.

Speaking of paint, I got a bit more sanding and final filler done the past few days. I didn't have time to work on it this past weekend so I've just been hitting it for an hour or so after work lately. Unfortunately, it's mostly just been sanding and applying filler.

The front of the rockers were now solid but my welding lacked the finesse to look really pretty, so on went some filler to smooth them both out as best as I could.

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They're very nearly done with just a little more work to knock down high spots and blend them smoothly left. These are by far the hardest places to sand because you spend the entire time on your back.

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The roof is very nearly there too. I was going to leave well enough alone on this one, but the slight high and low spots were driving me mad, so on went another paper thin layer of filler.

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The battery tray area had my newly welded piece in there, and while this one had some of my better welds, it still needed a light slathering of filler to make it look like it was never cut out.

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Some of the steel in the spare tire area had been torn due to years of stress from the exhaust, so I welded it up. This left the steel a bit wavy and my ugly welds a bit too visible, so some filler went on there to smooth it out.

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This is in the back area of the trunk. There had been some rust here in the past and someone cut it out and welded in a new piece of steel. I think they welded it in with an arc welder because these welds made mine look like I'm a welding genius. I ground them down as best as I could, but in the end, it just needed a bit of filler.

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The front of the rear fender was a little beat up too, so a thin layer of filler went on here to help smooth it out.

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The back of the passenger fender was driving me nuts and nothing was working out right, so I broke out the grinder, ground all my old filler off and went to work on the metal a bit more. I pulled a few low spots, hammered a few high spots and then applied a new coat of filler. It's coming together much, much better now!

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The proper way to have done this would have been to drill out the spots welds of each damaged panel and remove it from the body, so in this case, both rear fenders and both rockers. Then I should have taken a hammer and dolly to each panel and beat them as straight as possible before welding in patches. Then, after welding in patches I should have checked each panel and hammered it straight again. This way, you end up with just a single mega thin coat of filler instead of multiple coats like I have here.

I think I'll do that on the next car that I have a bunch of body work to do on. Live and learn though, I'm still pretty happy with how this little Isuzu is turning out!

Hopefully more updates to come soon as I sand down all this freshly applied filler and start to finalize the body work!

Thanks again everyone for the comments and sticking with me through this long slog of body work!

Cheers
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:34 am
Posts: 30
Location: Norway
Wow, I'd never be patient enough to pull off all this bodywork. Great job! Must be great to finally see the end of all that sanding - at least until the next project comes along.

Thanks for 300 posts of awesomness.


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 207
Location: UK
David.
Stop all this messing about and paint it ! :D
I reckon it's gotta be smooth enough for a deep black by now.
Too good for white, anyhow.

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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:03 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Dan, I wish nothing more than for all this messing about to be over so I can paint it! Unfortunately, there's still a bit more to go if I want it look good in the maroon I hope to paint it.

Cat0, I don't really know if it's patience or sheer stubbornness that's pushing me forward with this. Part me wants it to look right and another part of me keeps saying "I will not be defeated by this!". Also, I think 300 posts is the most I've ever posted on any one forum! Let's see if I can make 400 before the end of the year!

The body is getting closer and closer to being finished. The putty I applied in the trunk was really just to smooth out the weld repairs there and once sanded down, it turned out alright. The metal is still a bit way and beat up, but that would take a huge amount of putty to fix.

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The piece that sits behind the battery tray turned out really well too. It didn't take a huge amount of bondo to really smooth things out here and while the bondo looks really crazy, if you run your finger along it, it feels dead smooth. Plus, you can't feel the welding seams at all!

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The roof is getting much, much closer as well now too. This is nearly there, almost perfectly smooth.

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There was still one low spot on this side and two wavy spots on the other side, so they all got another paper thin layer.

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After sanding the paper thin layers almost completely gone, it turned out pretty well with the near side being completed and the far side needing just a little more TLC.

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The lower rear fender was so near to perfect that i was going to call it done, but upon close inspection of the putty there were a few spots where I didn't apply the putty well enough and it wasn't quite smooth. So a top layer went on to fill in those areas.

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Sanded back and this area is done!

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Next, we started work on the doors. They were both in decent shape with a few areas of putty from the previous paint job. We tried to smooth it out to see if it we could get by without removing their putty, but it just wasn't working out.

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So, I ground all the putty off and was greeted with doors that, surprisingly, had very little rust but were a bit beat up and bent up. There was one spot of rust though that needed some attention.

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So, I removed as much of the rust as I could and then painted on some rust converter to get inside the tiny pits that I don't have the tools to get to.

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With that taken care of, it was time to see if I could do something about the dents. This door being the worst.

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This is an evil dent and I knew going into it that short of removing the door skin from the door and working on it with a hammer and dolly, there wasn't much I'd be able to do.

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There was no access to the backside of the dent due to the inner door skin (which is why I imagine it was left untouched by the previous owner) so my options were fairly limited. I really didn't want to remove the door skin from the door and I wasn't sure if I'd be able to recreate the crease with a new piece of steel. As such, I knew that some putty was going to have to go back on, which meant my goal was now to try to reduce the amount required as much as possible. So, I welded on an M10 bolt like this.

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I then used this and some brute force strength to pull as much of the dent out as I could.

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It's a bit straighter, but do to the crease I couldn't move too much metal. I cut off the bolt and re-welded it a bit higher and pulled some more of the dent out. I then ground down all the weld left over on the door and hammered any high spots smooth.

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It's not a great fix by any means, but it should minimize the amount of putty required by quite a bit.

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The next spot was here on the other door.

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It's hard to see, but that dent was about 1 cm deep and looked like someone had thrown a baseball against the door. This was just filled with putty before. So, I employed the same M10 bolt welding technique and popped the dent out straight. This one went way smoother and faster than the other door.

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It's now much smoother and a very thin layer of putty is required to make it look pretty.

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I spent the weekend in Tokyo visiting Sideglide and checking out Isuzu Sports. They didn't have anything of use for me (except maybe a head gasket, but I don't feel like paying 500 USD for a head gasket) but it was good to hang out and visit! As such, I didn't get too much work done, but more will be coming this week as I try to button up the body and doors. Then it's time to get my hands on some primer!

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:15 pm
Posts: 148
Location: Great White North
Nice job pulling the dents with the bolts. :tu:


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 4:00 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Alright, so I got a bit more work done this past week, so let's get right into it!

After much sanding and smoothing and work, I finished one of the doors. This is the one that had the dent on the crease, so I did my best to keep the crease as smooth and clean as possible.

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You can also see where some high spots were that the filler now smooths out completely. It looks like there might be ridge around the high spots in this photo, but when you run your fingers across it, it's nice and smooth.

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The other door took a huge amount of work too as it was really hard to get the shape of the lower half smooth and not wavy. I would say that I sanded off around 90% of all the putty I applied, but the result was worth it.

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While I was messing with the doors, Miki was getting busy with the roof. After much more sanding, I'm pleased to call this section of the car done! She did an excellent job and it's miles smoother than it was when I first got it.

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The interior has largely been left alone as of late, but I needed to do something about the mountains of double sided tape and tape residue left over, so I got out the grinder and generally made a mess. The tape residue turned into these little hot, balls that were being thrown at high speed everywhere. It was exciting to say the least, haha. I did get it all a bit smoother and cleaner inside.

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It still needs a bit of work and a bit more cleanup, but at least all that miserable double sided tape is gone.

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This next bit is a trick I learned from the Shacho at Classic Car Nagoya. When you're painting a car and you can't remove the glass for whatever reason (usually because new windshield rubber is impossible to find), you can do this to ensure that you can clean up and get paint under the weatherstripping.

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What you essentially do is lift up the outer edge of the weatherstripping very carefully and push a thin rope under it. This thin rope keeps the weatherstripping edge lifted and compresses back far enough to let paint get under.

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It also make it easier to sand the edge near the weatherstripping for a smoother finish. It takes a nice hot day in the sun for the rubber weatherstripping to return to its original shape after you're all done, but that's not really a big deal. Here's the front windshield all done. I did the rear after the front, but didn't grab a pic of it.

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Then I was sitting there trying to think if I had everything I needed to paint. Then I had an idea. I can kill two birds with one stone if I just mock everything up right now. That way I can see what pieces need paint that are still hiding in boxes and I can make sure that all my bondo work looks smooth from fender to door to fender.

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Starting to look like a car again!

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That's the most complete it's been in a long time! I'm really glad I decided to mock it up actually because almost immediately I was presented with a huge problem with the front fenders. The fit was always a little off, but I figured I could work with it a little bit to make it alright. I didn't realize just how much out of whack it was until I had the hood and doors bolted on properly.

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So you can see in both of these pictures that the door gap between the back of the door and the rear fender is really pretty good on both sides of the car. I mean the doors could use to move back a hair but it's nothing serious at all.

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Unfortunately, when you move around to the front of the door and look at the gap between the front fender and door, it's a different story entirely. There is almost no gap at all and the door can't actually open or close without ramming into the fender.

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It's the same story on both sides.

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So I though that maybe I could move the fenders forward a hair to compensate, but that would push them out past the hood. If I moved the hood forward to match the new fender lines, then I would have a massive gap between the hood and the cowl.

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So you can see in both of these pictures that the front of the fender and the hood actually line up quite well. You can also see that on both sides there is an acceptable gap between the hood and the fenders (it's not as small as I would like, but it's acceptable).

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However, if you move to the back of the hood, you can see that the gap between the hood and the fenders is now as wide as a thumb.

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Same story on both sides.

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I had heard all the horror stories of ill fitting replica FRP parts but I decided to throw caution to the wind and give it a go. Bad idea, haha. If just one aspect of the fenders didn't work then I could maybe fight with it and make it fit right, but given the fact that even if I can miraculously make it line up with the doors, I'm still left with a mile wide gap around the hood is leading me to see what is required in fixing the original front fenders.

So, my next goal is to strip the original front fenders down to bare metal, remove all the old putty and see how bad they really are. They will need welding, but I'm used to that by now!

Hopefully more updates to come this week as I tear into the front fenders!

Thanks for reading guys!
Cheers
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:40 am 

Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:24 am
Posts: 103
Location: Lobethal, South Australia
Im pretty sure you can get repro windscreen rubbers for the belletts here in australia, they dont have the provision for the chrome strip though. There are a few items that are being reproduced here for them.
The guy doing alot of the repro rubbers i think is rotary_products_new_old_car_company from ebay. I know he has started to reproduce the rear number plate lights and surrounds and does the windscreen rubbers.

Nice work on all the sanding, certainly setting a new standard for us all!


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:28 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Thanks for the heads-up on the reproduction windscreen rubbers, mrflibbles. I'll definitely keep that in mind! Looking under the lifted up rubber there doesn't seem to be any cancer, so it should be alright this time around. I might pick up a set anyways for the future!

Alright, so I left off last time, sorely disappointed in the quality of my FRP fenders. So, they came right back off, got tossed in the corner, and I dug my old steel fenders out of the scrap pile. One of them had accumulated a nice layer of surface rust.

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The other fender though, didn't have hardly any rust yet, largely due to the mountain of bondo on it.

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This spot was my main worry as it looks like I was in store for some more of the same sketchy coffee can steel repairs as seen on my rockers.

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So, I pulled out the grinder and got to work getting all the old putty off of both fenders. I wanted to see how thick it was so I picked a random spot and ran the grinder straight down until I hit metal.

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Ya, that is truly as deep as it looks.

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So, I pulled out a screwdriver and a hammer and started chipping the putty off instead of grinding it. Some of the chunks were thicker than a homemade chocolate chunk cookie.

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No one should ever use that much bondo on anything. I mean I've used a lot of putty to smooth out some waves, but I've never caked it on that thick. After a couple hours of grinding, chipping and swearing, this was the aftermath (that pavement should be black).

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The fenders cleaned up alright though!

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Both fenders are rotted in the same place, so it's going to take cutting out and welding in new steel here.

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The fender that had a mile and a half of putty on it was pretty solid. The only thing is, it looks like someone made it a target on a golf driving range. This thing has hundreds of small dents all over it. They're all small dents though, so I have no idea why it needed a half inch of putty all over it.

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My plan is find each low spot and hammer it from the back side until I get to a point where there aren't any dents, just odd waves. Then I can use a thin layer of putty to smooth out the waves. Should require about 1/10 as much putty as they used.

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However, before I went got too involved, I wanted to make sure that my newly stripped fenders fit exactly how they were supposed to. They should be perfect, but then again, the FRP ones should have fit, so I bolted them up to check hood and door clearances just to be sure.

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You can see here that the hood/cowl to fender gap is pretty good (and this is with no adjustment of either fender or hood).

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The same goes for the front of the hood.

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The door gaps are where I was really worried though. Turned out I had nothing to worry about!

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So this was my next area of attack on both sides. You can really see how rotten this area gets on these fenders. Shoddy repairs doesn't help it either. All they did was take a piece of coffee can, put it behind the rust, use some self tapping screws to hold it in place and then pasted the entire thing with fiberglass and putty.

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Ya, I can't help but feel like the previous owner got scammed by a shady shop.

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The entire time I was down there, so was my better half! She worked harder than I did and is keeping me on track. Here she is getting the passenger fender completely cleaned up.

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While she was on that, I got to work on the driver fender. First step was to cut out the crap repair and cancerous steel.

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I then bolted the fender back up so I could make sure my new replacement steel had the appropriate shape.

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New piece all cut to shape and mostly bent up. There's still a bit of tweaking to the new piece required, but it's getting pretty close.

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However, before I can weld it up, I needed to clean the welder. I've been doing a lot of sanding and not much welding lately which left the entire area covered in dust. So, the sides and top came off revealing what the inside of a welder that's probably older than the car looks like.

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Ya, it's kind of white inside there.

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After I got that clean, I painted some rust stop on the now exposed frame of the fender to keep the pitted rust that I couldn't quite remove at bay. That had to dry and I was pretty knackered at that point, so I decided to call it a day there.

More to come soon as I slowly hammer and weld these fenders back to life!

Thanks again guys for the comments and looking!

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:32 am 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Alright, a quick little update continuing from yesterday.

I got back down there again after work today and did some welding and grinding on my fender. Certaintly not my best work ever, but it's close enough that minimal filler will be needed.

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I bolted it back up to the car to see how it fits and it's pretty good! I tried to stagger the drilled through spot welds on the end so that they didn't all pull in the same place. Seems plenty strong but makes it look like I was drunk while I was drilling, haha.

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It's about a million times better than what was there before at the very least. There is one low spot the bends into a high spot that's either a result of poor alignment, warping or (most likely) both. It's nothing serious and is about on par with my other fixes, so I'm happy.

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Now just to do the other side!

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:12 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Alright! I had a busy, busy weekend that unfortunately wasn't composed entirely of being busy on the Bellett. Still, I got down there and got a little more work done! (Quick side note, Photobucket has updated their site and all photos automatically resize to 1024 x 768, so there's been a bit of a jump in my photo size.)

My first goal was to weld in the repair plate on the other fender. This required cutting out the nastiness that was originally there.

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Here's the resulting piece.

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After one failed piece and a lot of cutting and welding, we have the new piece on!

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It fits a little better than the driver side, but I still clearly need a lot of practice.

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My next goal was to do a little edge finishing. The original fender skin folded back on itself creating a smooth edge. With the single piece of steel I had on there right now, the fender edge changed from smooth folded steel to skin slicing razor quite abruptly. So I welded a new piece on to the back and filled the edge. A little grinding and it came out nice and smooth with a clean transition.

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I only grabbed pictures of one side, but I did the same treatment to the other fender as well. My next goal was to hammer the majority of the golf ball dents into some kind of normal shape. So I marked all the dents that needed a little bit of work and got to hammering.

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Again, not my forte, by I hammered for an hour or so trying to get it close to the right shape. Eventually I got to a point that no worse than what the rear fenders were, so I decided it was time to stop delaying and put some putty back on.

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Yes, that is a lot of putty, but if you look closely, it's pretty thin as you can see steel in many spots behind the putty. This is about 10 million times better than the 1/2 inch worth of putty the previous guys put on. Both of my newly welded in pieces got a layer of putty slathered on as well.

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That's as far as I got this weekend, but tonight, the sanding games begin! With any luck, I can have both front fenders done by weeks end and I can start on prepping the entire body for paint. It's still so cold here that I'm afraid I'm going to freeze and become Encino Man on the walk from the parking lot to the office, so paint will have to wait until the temperature starts to warm up (ie. March).

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2010 12:16 am
Posts: 79
Location: Adelaide South Australia
Brilliant work mate.
For someone with little to no experience in body repair you are sure installing a whole heap of confidence into myself, and I'm sure others, for when I start my own body work on my Honda.
Thanks :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:19 am 

Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:24 am
Posts: 103
Location: Lobethal, South Australia
shame those repro guards were a nightmare fit,but you have done some amazing work on the old guards to get them to the sanding stage! i am loving your work on this car! cant wait to see it finished!


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:44 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Thanks for the comments guys!

I've been sidetracked the past two weeks trying to get my new daily turned around and back on the road, but I haven't forgotten about the Bellett! (More on the new daily here: Link!). As soon as I can roll the little Life back out of the garage (which should happen this weekend), I can get back to work on the Bellett. But, just because I haven't been working on it doesn't mean I haven't been thinking about the old girl. So, I bought her a bit of a present.

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Any present that comes on a pallet is a good present!

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Excuse the terrible picture, but that is a transmission, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, etc. lifted from a 117 Coupe. It just so happens that that 117 Coupe had a G180Z in it. That's right, we're game on for the G180Z swap into the Bellett.

The main reason I'm going for the G180Z swap (aside from the fact that I already have one) is that the head gasket alone for the G180SS is around 40,000 yen, where as an entire rebuild kit for the G180Z is about half that. Also, the Chevy Luv in the States came with the G180Z so parts can be had at stupid cheap prices from just about any auto parts store.

At any rate, paint has to find its way onto the body first, so that's my main focus at the moment!

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:32 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
hey if you've got your g180z handy, could I ask a favor? could you look on the underside of the intake and see if there's a temp sender under there somewhere? I can't figure out where it is, and I don't want to pull the engine back out just to have a better look.

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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:09 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
I think I feel something directly under the thermostat housing. is that what that is?

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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:42 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
Opelboy, unfortunately, when I bought my G180Z, it didn't have an intake or exhaust manifold on it, so I can't really check. However, looking at this aftermarket intake manifold for the G180Z, it seems like there is an opening on the bottom side of the manifold for a sensor.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Twin-40-WEBE ... 35b4adbe79

This manifold also has an opening directly under the thermostat area for what I'm guessing is a temp sensor.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-JDM-ISU ... 27ce1a2c28

Sorry I couldn't be of more help!

Cheers,
David

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1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:09 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
I'll bet that's what it is, then. thanks.

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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:02 pm 

Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:54 pm
Posts: 499
Location: Nagoya, Japan
So, when I last left off, I was still going through the motions of applying putty and sanding that putty smooth on my front fenders. That was slowly progressing while I was trying to accumulate everything for paint. Step 1 was to get a compressor.

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I actually picked this up from the guy I bought my Honda Life from. A nice 200 volt unit that should be enough to do about 1 cup of paint at a time. Plus, it's old school cool. Just look at this awesome label on it!

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Here's the fender after countless hours of smoothing. I put quite a lot of putty back on, although about half as much as was on their originally. Honestly, I'm not super happy with the amount of putty on the entire car, but given the limited tools, space and time I have for the car, I reckon I've done alright.

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Fortunately, I had help in making sure everything was perfectly smooth. She kept me from going insane, that's for sure!

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We were just about finished and happy with the fenders on Tuesday night. It just so happened that we had a national holiday on the next day (Wednesday). So, feeling oh so smart, I decided to take the following Thursday and Friday off as well, giving me 5 days to get some serious painting done. I had this amazing plan in my mind about how everything would work perfectly and I’d have a beautiful looking car at the end.

Unfortunately, things rarely play out as beautifully smooth as they happen in my mind.

Day1:

This day started off on the wrong foot with the carbs on my Honda Life giving me some serious grief. The car would not idle and everytime I touched it, things only got worse until I got to the point that I just pulled them out altogether. After setting them aside for later, we hopped in a different car and made a quick trip to the store to get some much needed supplies. First and most important was some nice plastic sheets to hang from the ceiling to create some plastic walls.

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Now before I could get started on hanging the plastic, I had to clean the garage and give the car a nice bath. So, out she came and got two complete spray downs to get as much of the bondo dust out as humanly possible.

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That's the cleanest it's been in a long time!

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Not a fantastic picture, but here are the walls hung and the car hiding inside!

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Then, that same funk that was in the air in the morning when my carbs were acting up, came back with a vengeance. The skies opened up and it started dumping rain, which is terrible for paint. That didn't matter though, because my air compressor absolutely refused to turn on. This was entirely my fault for two reasons. One, I didn't give it a test when I first received it a week or so ago like I should have to suss out problems like this and, two, turns out I should have read the label on the electric motor. The motor was a nice three-phase 200 volt motor. Unfortunately, I only have single-phase. After some reading, I found out that you can sometimes run a three-phase motor on single-phase if you give it a few spins to jump start it. I did so and voila, the motor kicks on and starts filling my tank full of air. At this time though, it was far too late at night to do anything, so we called it a day having accomplished very little.

Day 2:

I set out early to get some paint down with my now kind of working air compressor. I jump start my compressor again and get plenty of pressure built up in the tank. There's till one problem with the thing though in that the pressure switch does not kick off... at all. Still, I soldier on! I get plenty of pressure built up, kick the compressor off and then get to spraying.

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Those two pieces were my test pieces. After that went well, I started in on the trunk. I finished off my cup of paint right as my compressor tank was running low on air. It seemed that this was going to work alright!

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That is, everything seemed like it would work alright until my compressor wouldn't jump start again. I knew I was taking a chance running a three phase motor on single phase and I wasn't sure how long the motor would make it, so it wasn't entirely unexpected, but the fact remained that I was dead in the water again. So, I scrambled onto the internet and got to searching, hoping to find a replacement that could make it here in time. A stroke of luck and I pulled the trigger on this guy.

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Unfortunately, because it was Yahoo Auctions and it was already Thursday night, the earliest I could hope for it was Saturday.

Day 3:

With no air compressor and just three more days off from work, I knew I had to do something productive or I'd be going insane. So, as luck would have it, Hide-san at Classic Car Nagoya was putting color on an R30 that day and he invited my awesome girlfriend and me to come get some pointers. Absolutely!

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He started off with a nice red coat that was mixed from something like 10 different shades of red.

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I learned some very important things about gun settings and spray method, but the most important thing I learned was that proper equipment and a paint booth is paramount! The 500,000 yen plus compressor he uses is just about as good a compressor as you can get and when coupled with the 50,000 yen plus gun he's rocking (imported from America), the results are spectacular.

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I also learned some interesting things in how he goes about spraying certain parts of the car. For example, when he paints the roof, he does the front 1/4, then the rear 1/4 and then finishes off painting the middle.
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There she is with three nice coats of the vibrant red. Next up was putting some candy on it.

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The candy was a very deep metallic color that really popped to the naked eye but looked far less interesting through the lens of my point and shoot. Still, it was an amazing color.

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After two coats of candy, it was lunch time. You could tell that Hide-san was a professional in that he finished his two coats and finished cleaning his gun at precisely 11:59! After lunch, it was time for clear.

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The clear is still wet here, but you can see the difference in shine it makes from the door to the rear quarter.

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A very nice, clean, deep red!

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After our quick lesson, we had a short chat about paint. Turns out the maroon I wanted is one of the more difficult paints to get right. I also run the problem of the paint showing flaws in my bodywork (which there are bound to be quite a few of). Hide-san suggested running a nice, dark, solid blue. I'll get close to the same look that maroon will give, but it'll be about 9 million times easier to paint. Had I not seen how difficult it was to get the red on the R30 right, I would have stuck to my guns on the maroon, but given my current painting situation and equipment, I'm more than ready to go for anything that will make it easier on me.

At any rate, after having learned quite a bit about painting, we decided to take the rest of the day easy and go watch Die Hard 5 in the theater since it was the last week it'd be playing. Everything exploded. It was awesome.

Day 4:

Kudos to the Yahoo Auctions guy. He was on the ball and got my compressor motor shipped first thing Friday morning. That meant it arrived at noon on Saturday! There are a couple reasons why I was so keen on getting this specific motor. Here's the tag on the motor for my old motor.

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If you look, you'll notice its 0.75 kw and spins at 1,700 rpm. If you look at the new motor though...

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... you'll notice that it’s also 0.75 kw and spins at near 1,700 rpm. So, aside from it being single phase, it's nearly identical to the old motor. Which means no obvious problems running the compressor off of this motor. However, this motor has one added benefit. It can run on 220 volts, which means if I pack the whole compressor into a container when it's time to move home, I can continue to use it!

At any rate, the old motor had to come off!

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And the new motor had to go on!

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Now that I had air, it was time to get painting!

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It should be noted that the gun I'm using is an old hand me down from my lovely girlfriend's father. It's a nice gun, but it's not the nicest in the world. Still, it works well and gets the job done.

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My, that doesn't look too bad!

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The pressure switch still didn't work on my air compressor, so I'd run it in between cups and then actively adjust the spray pressure at the gun as the pressure in the tank dropped. It seemed to be working alright so far. We were still trying to get into the groove of things when darkness fell and it was time to pack it up for the night. I managed to get a single coat of primer on the entire interior, engine bay, roof, pillars, trunk and one rear fender.

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It was still pretty thin in some spots with some of the body work still visible beneath the paint, but it was already looking like a transformed car!

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There were some problems that presented themselves pretty quickly, such as these pinholes in the putty we used on one spot of the roof.

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Still, I'm pretty stoked!

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Day 5:

We hit the ground running finally. We had good momentum, we worked out a good system and paint was flowing freely! That is until a mixture of improper cleaning the night before and a cup of too thick paint thoroughly clogged the whole gun. After dismantling it and letting it soak in some thinner for about an hour, we were back in business! Consider that was the only major setback of the day, it was refreshing to have a day go smoothly to say the least!

At the end of the day, I had managed to get three coats on the entire body!

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Now that's not bad looking at all!

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Even the fenders look alright!

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The roof, which was mega wavy before we started body work on it, looks decently smooth now!

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Man, I'm excited to see this thing as one solid color.

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Three coats really makes a difference in getting a completely uniform and even paint surface.

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I even sprayed a few coats on some smaller parts.

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Next I gotta spray the doors, fenders, hood and trunk, which I should be able to knock out in a good weekend. Then I wetsand everything, fill in any problem spots (such as the pinholes), do a final prep for color and finally start spraying real paint onto the girl!

I'm excited to say the least!

Thanks for reading guys!

Cheers,
David

_________________
1967 LT23 Mitsubishi 360 // 1967 L10A Cosmo Sports // 1971 S30 Fairlady Z // 1973 PR95 Bellett 1800 GT // 1973 Honda Life // 1988 Z31 300 ZX SS // 1996 EK11 March 1.3 // 1997 AC15 Dream 50
My Homepage: http://sites.google.com/site/nakazoto/home


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 Post subject: Re: The Bellet of the ball!
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:20 pm
Posts: 207
Location: UK
Looking good David. Not that it's my place to second-guess Nagoya's best panel man but dark blue ? Really ?
Go on, do it maroon. Or light blue. Or ivory.
But not dark blue.
Please ?
:|

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