What paint strippers do people recommend? I am thinking of stripping all the old paint of my car before paint and want a decent chemical to help remove to old paint.

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Money Pits:
- 1980 Corolla Hatchback - Power project
- 1988 Celica Alltrac - Snow fun project

3M Purple Bristle Roloc discs, works on bonding also

Small areas rattle can paint strippers or aircraft remover work well. I used a DA and some 80 grit paper on the cressida

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I have a Metric S&!T ton of Datsun/Toyota parts pre 82 let me know if you need anything,

73 rb25 240z, body Bracing, cage, paint in progress.
78 Cressida Body, Paint, and 2jzgte in progress.

3M spray on stuff works well (i think spray on strippers work better full stop)

If you coat a panel, lay shrink wrap over the stripper on the panel while it works. It 'sweats', so making it somewhat air-tight helps.

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Just be careful if you use the sprays. I tried it once a long time ago and I thought I was absolutely safe and upwind of the overspray but as I was spraying, I noticed a tingling feeling on my arms and face. I guess I forgot about possible eddy currents bringing some of the overspray back...

Anyway, I worked great at stripping paint but I don't think I will be using the spray stuff for quite a while yet...

PPE should go without saying. some of that shit seriously burns. always cover up when using it, gloves and goggles/glasses at a minimum!

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Sorry to thread-jack, but I'm looking for a paintstripper aswell to get the paint off my chrome bumpers. I need something that won't damage the chrome. My buddy told me the Toyota chrome is pretty tough and that I don't have to be too worried about using paint stripper, so I want something thats a bit stronger than the thinner someone suggested.

try oven cleaner.

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jasco paint stripper (kind of gel-lke) took the paint right off my '54 coe truck.

I say Jasco. You can buy the stuff at any parts store or home improvement store. I use it for auto paint, rims, cabinets... you name the paint and it will take it off.

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See my 76 Corolla build: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19630

I heard brake fluid work well.
I haven't tried it...yet

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1978 Corolla 2TC

.........works awesome

i cleaned once a bike carb with it.........after one night all the plastic parts disapeard or wrapped to FUBAR

The gel "Aircraft" strippers are all pretty much the same, and I had great luck working with the cheap, no-name stuff from Autozone. The secret is to keep the application area wet (so, keep reapplying it as it dries out), and to work in about 4 sq. ft. sections.

It pulled the factory paint off of my Z32 in about 1/4 the time it would have taken to sand the same area.

I know this is probably the last thing you want to hear, but DO NOT use chemicals! 80 grit da or paint remover pad on a 4" grinder.

Even media blasting is ok but not soda blasting.

The chemicals will cause issues with your new primer and paint sticking properly to the metal.

I had 14 layers of paint and primer on my car and have taken it off little by little. It is slow but I do not want to have to repaint in 5 years.

Wouldn't proper metal prep after words clean up and residue left from a stripper? Thought most of the paint strippers evaporated anyway, then you wipe down everything after.

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Money Pits:
- 1980 Corolla Hatchback - Power project
- 1988 Celica Alltrac - Snow fun project

They do.. But you will still have issues with residue. If you want to use a stripper, I would clean the area with laquer thinner then again with a wax and grease remover. Then before primer hit the whole area with 80 grit.

Just remember that if you are going to paint it, you might as well take the time to do it right.

Good luck!

I will be painting it, and I fully expect to screw it up the first time lol. I will be doing this to learn and also make it so if I mess it up at the track, I wont get pissed lol. Right now the car is multi color and I feel its time to give her a solid one.

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Money Pits:
- 1980 Corolla Hatchback - Power project
- 1988 Celica Alltrac - Snow fun project

The aircraft stripper my old restoration shop used on various things (blue can with a plane on it) is neutralized by water. There are many shops who have used this product for a looooong time with no problems as long as the surface is washed thoroughly ESPECIALLY IN CRACKS AND CREVICES. Keeping it wet is the key, and this can be done by laying a thin plastic over the area to prevent evaporation. There is a learning curve to determine how much to apply, how often to recoat, and when to scrape it all off. Find the thickest most acid resistant gloves you can and have a few pairs on hand as this stuff will soak through and burn the ever loving $hit out of your skin. Regular paint respirators do NOT filter out these acid fumes. In fact they will soak right through the filters and become concentrated inside the mask. Acid specific filters can be had from professional auto paint stores. You can also set up a few fans and create a draft that will pull most fumes away from you, but this not only can be difficult to perfect, but can also accelerate the evaporation rate of the stripper. A professional mask with correct acid filters is the best way to keep your lungs from looking like burnt hamburger. Once all is stripped and properly washed, DA the entire surface with 80 grit thoroughly. If not, its like trying to stick velcro to glass... Not very effective or long lasting. Take your time and be safe!