rx2 build: ヘドラ Hedora

derek · **Posted:** Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:51 pm

I can't mach them to the irons because these are just photos someone sent me. Thanks for the help

Dazz · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:52 pm

They are definitely late model RX-7 era 12A Housings, not early 12A Twin Dizzy ones.

The early single dizzy 12A Housings simply Mazda written in big italic font, sort of like MAZDA not the small later style font like in those pics.

The Twin Dizzy motors had a rounded shoulder where the Mazda is written on those later rotor housings you have, with no Mazda logo at all. Hard to see clearly but you can see no Mazda cast into the housing.

derek · **Posted:** Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

started cutting the old paint to see whats under there. basically free if you have free time. so much money into home remodels and other cars, havent had much time/cash to work on this thing this summer.

i plan on going over it again. i rubbed the pass quarter by hand and it has a lot more gloss than the drivers side which i used a machine for.

used compound then over with polish.. i think it will look good enough to drive on til next winter.

derek · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2012 2:56 pm

decided to try out another cheap restore. some semblance of progress is always nice.

used a hobby resin meant for lakes and such for tabletop models. it has a few tiny airbubbles in it but the bottle says that they will remove themselves naturally during the 24 hr cure.. so i guess ill see what i wind up with tomorrow.

derek · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:43 pm

RX-2Fan · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:55 pm

Very Cool! What trim turbo is that? 12A or 13B? can't really tell. Really liking what I'm seeing!!!

derek · **Posted:** Sun Nov 04, 2012 5:11 pm

its a factory turbo 12a engine. turbo is garrett air research. not sure the trim. no markings and havent measured it yet. going to pull everything out and start cleaning and patch up my fender well hole now that it fits.

pertano · **Posted:** Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:20 am

man that turbo hat is pretty bad ass. Great find!!!

derek · **Posted:** Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:28 pm

winter and other cars getting in the way slow things down but still not stopped

sweet 13x7 wheels front tires are 175 70 rears are 185 70

banzaitoyota · **Posted:** Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:44 pm

Looking good! What happened to your gas lid?

Mr N4SA · **Posted:** Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:46 am

Very Nice!!!!

I like the blow through turbo setup.

I am tuned in on this one. Keep up the work.

derek · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:36 am

I'm not sure what happened to the lid but theyre rare so disappearances must be common

RX-2Fan · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:17 pm

derek wrote:

I'm not sure what happened to the lid but theyre rare so disappearances must be common

Yeah the glue Mazda used to bond everything was shit. I've heard of peoples hoods bubbling up at highspeeds because the glue failed. It also causes rust, overall the stuff is bad news. At least the lid isn't too hard to make out of sheet metal.

derek · **Posted:** Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:28 pm

cut the remote shifter down on my 12a trans.

been working too often on other cars. goal is to have this thing under its own power by june.

derek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:00 pm

no pictures at the moment but i have been working on it.

i ended up going with a shortened s4 12b na transmission.

welded in a turbo drain line and resealed the oil pan. installed clutch and transmission and slid it in the car.

turbo still hits the frame rail even after i raised the holes on the engine mount and added a few spacers on the motor mounts. i also flattened the frame rail about 1/4". seems like it hasnt gone anywhere.

clutch fork is hitting the trans tunnel so i need to massage that area too.

good news is that the trans mount is super easy. just a pair of L brackets out of 3/16" strap steel.

still need to cut the shifter hole back a few inches but i think i can get away with the stock shifter location on the center console.

question. when 12v+ straight to the starter motor lug. should it spin? i thought it only lit up after the solenoid was engaged but my motor will spin as soon as it sees power.

derek · **Posted:** Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:57 pm

so i was really really dreading cutting in to the frame to fit a dumb turbo but i really couldnt work a solution. so this weekend i figured 'what the hell'. and started chopping

after i peeled off the top layer, i saw 40 years of dirt and dust nearly brim full in there. completely dry and frame rails are just surface rust which i treated. but it was kind of cool to take out a brick of dirt.

in an attempt to reintroduce rigidity to the frame, i added a couple bulkheads and welded them in

then i made a top plate

and welded it in

and finally i made the rear piece and welded it in, shot it with rust preventative primer and then a coat of semi gloss black to further help seal it and hide my bad bad welds

im not a welder. in fact, this is my first time welding anything more than a random spot weld every few years. im satisfied with the results as ive seen far worse, but ive seen better too. still have to tackle the wheel well and not quite made a decision as to how but thats for next weekend.

with the engine in place, i could finally start making a trans bracket, except now the engine had a 15* tilt. so again.. contemplation on cutting into my baby.. i had to do it now..

and then i reused the factory boot cover. probably going to replace the metal up front although i know most people dont do that.

and finally, this is how it lines up with the console. im not sure if i want to bend and cut the shifter to fit the console, or mount the console back an inch

RX-2Fan · **Posted:** Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:31 pm

Nice! not sure about this but I heard from a family member with a powerful RX2 that because of the thinness of the metal if you don't completely remove the rust in the area before you start welding it the heat will make the surface rust accelerate and turn into cancerous rust. anyone want to confirm or disprove what I said? because I'm not sure about this.

RestoreMaz · **Posted:** Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:23 am

r100guy wrote:

The chrome around the radio, clock and surround is just silver paint and that can be retouched or redone with a silver paint marker. The chrome strips on the shift console are plastic chrome (Plastic metalizing) and that is another story altogether. The pieces will have to be shipped to a company to be re-metalized which is very expensive. I can tell you where NOT to send them and that is "M&M Metalizing" in Westminster CA. Expensive and of poor quality.

I havent had a close look at the radio surrounds on Rx2s, but on RX3s they are vacum metalised and not silver paint. the gear stick and handbrake surrounds are ABS type plastic , chrome plated.

beans161 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:23 am

fab manifolds not chassis rails.

derek · **Posted:** Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:37 am

I thought about a manifold but I really wanted to keep the hks piece. Fabbing a new mani meant reengineering the whole turbo kit

rx2 build: ヘドラ Hedora

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