My 1974 Corolla SR5

jkwade · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 12:20 am

Quick Update:

She failed a compression test. Looks like the rings are bad in three of the cylinders. Looks like I'm in for a rebuild. I am leaning on keeping it stock on the rebuild as opposed to taking the opportunity to up compression, install a new cam, etc. In the far long term, I would like to go EFI and supercharge it...something different. So no point in doing a NA build at the moment.

I have been sort of ignoring it the past couple of days. My work schedule has been pretty full, so I am not sure when I will be able to work on the tear down.

greggearhead · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 6:41 am

Bummer! Takes some of the wind out of the sails, especially when you are busy.

Any chance of finding a good used replacement to keep her running while you build the original motor slowly?

UtahSleeper · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:06 am

Sucks about the compression test. I think thats why I havent done one on mine. Since its just a fun car, I would rather drive it till I kill the motor lol.

If its a fun car and you have goals to go EFI and SC, why not build up for that?

jkwade · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 12:08 pm

I've looked around for a replacement, but I can't find one anywhere nearby. Not too many people running T engines in Kentucky I'm afraid...maybe I'll just drop a 350 in it and call it a day :lol:

I should have checked compression sooner, but I was also afraid of the results. Oh well, at least it's a pretty straightforward engine to rebuild.

EFI and SC is a very far off goal right now, as the expense is just too great at the moment. I am fine with keeping the motor original for now, as I want to get the body, etc. just right before going down the performance road. Paint, suspension, and all the little things first. But I want a running car before any of that, so a low-key rebuild seems to be the best option for now.

greggearhead · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:44 pm

Hey - I did a quickie rebuild on a 1984 Toyota Truck one time - I pulled the head because it needed a timing chain, and realized, it was burning a lot of oil, and compression was on the *lower* side, - so left the block bolted in, honed the cylinders, put in new rings and bearings, milled the head for more compression, threw in a mild cam and a Weber carb, and turned out to be a really good driver, and done on the quick and cheap. Don't recommend doing it that way, but it was just an old rock crawler truck...

jkwade · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2012 12:04 am

greggearhead wrote:

Hey - I did a quickie rebuild on a 1984 Toyota Truck one time - I pulled the head because it needed a timing chain, and realized, it was burning a lot of oil, and compression was on the *lower* side, - so left the block bolted in, honed the cylinders, put in new rings and bearings, milled the head for more compression, threw in a mild cam and a Weber carb, and turned out to be a really good driver, and done on the quick and cheap. Don't recommend doing it that way, but it was just an old rock crawler truck...

A friend of mine actually suggested this method to me a long time ago on an old Ford truck. I still haven't rebuilt that engine, but now that I have the Toyota in the garage with the head off, and lacking much space or an engine hoist/stand, I am seriously considering this method. I have a few days to consider it as the holidays roll by. Who knows...I've heard it can be done from a few people now anyway, lol.

73te27 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:38 pm

I replaced a crank in a te27 with the engine in the car but I will never do it again. The oil pump has to be removed before you can remove the oil pan. Taking it off is easy but bolting it back with an inch and a half of clearance was totally frustrating. Will be twice as fast if you take it out. If you plan on replacing the rear main and bearings then you have to pull the trans and flywheel anyway. If the heads off, the engine doesnt weigh much. My wife (at the time she weighed a buck ten, a loooong time ago) and I pulled a short block with a 2X4 and a rope. Just keep the 2x4 vertical and its strong enough or you can use a pipe or non olympic barbell.

jace · **Posted:** Mon Dec 31, 2012 8:33 pm

what is 'SR5' specific about the car? does it still have leaf-suspension in the back and crappy PCD (4x110) or does SR5 mean it has the better TE27 stuff?

73te27 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:31 pm

jace wrote:

what is 'SR5' specific about the car? does it still have leaf-suspension in the back and crappy PCD (4x110) or does SR5 mean it has the better TE27 stuff?

Metal flares
10 bolt 6.7" ring gear 1.75" wider rear end with different drums and backing plates
4X114.3 PCD
5 speed T50
larger leaf spring eyes
larger front struts
tachometer
long center console
different door panel and seat covers
black headliner
black rear view mirror
wood grain dash and shift knob
radial tires
distinct center caps
different 13X5 rims
no body side trim
larger wheel well openings
2TC engine
larger drive shaft diameter

jace · **Posted:** Mon Dec 31, 2012 11:59 pm

73te27 wrote:

jace wrote:

what is 'SR5' specific about the car? does it still have leaf-suspension in the back and crappy PCD (4x110) or does SR5 mean it has the better TE27 stuff?

Metal flares
10 bolt 6.7" ring gear 1.75" wider rear end with different drums and backing plates
4X114.3 PCD
5 speed T50
larger leaf spring eyes
larger front struts
tachometer
long center console
different door panel and seat covers
black headliner
black rear view mirror
wood grain dash and shift knob
radial tires
distinct center caps
different 13X5 rims
no body side trim
larger wheel well openings
2TC engine
larger drive shaft diameter

thanks buddy! good info.

jkwade · **Posted:** Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:28 am

jace wrote:

what is 'SR5' specific about the car? does it still have leaf-suspension in the back and crappy PCD (4x110) or does SR5 mean it has the better TE27 stuff?

As to the second clause of your question, it is basically identical to the JDM TE27 Levin model save for the pushrod engine (Levin got a twin cam). I believe the Levin also has an all-black interior, whereas the SR5 has red piping in the seats and faux wood grain dash, steering wheel, and shift knob. The engine is obviously a bit more impressive in the Japanese model, but I think the USDM interior is cooler. I've also never seen a Levin that is the same color as my SR5. They may exist, but metallic purple seems like a much more American color for the 70s.

Oh, and the Japanese model obviously never had effing battering rams for bumpers like my 74 has!

jace · **Posted:** Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:54 am

jkwade wrote:

Oh, and the Japanese model obviously never had effing battering rams for bumpers like my 74 has!

those bumpers you yanks got through the 70's and 80's make me so so SO glad to be australian.

they are wrong on so many levels. i wonder if they ever saved a life?

bigmikesocal · **Posted:** Tue Jan 01, 2013 3:05 pm

jkwade, PM sent...
-Big Mike

jkwade · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:40 pm

I got my rebuild kit in today, after ordering on Friday. Quick service at http://www.rpmrons.com/ !

After looking at my engine and the way it is mounted, there is no way to do it from the bottom. So I will be renting a hoist and yank it. Maybe I can find enough time to have it done by next Monday or so. Depends on whether or not I can enlist any help!

One thing which stumps me is the oil pump. RPM Rons could not supply me a pre-July '74 pump, stating that the earlier pumps are different. Auto Zone also does not have the earlier '74 ones, but they do have the later '74 as well as the '73 pump. My gut tells me the '73 should work, as I can't imagine Toyota made a half year style of oil pump. Can anyone shed any light on this?

greggearhead · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:12 am

I can't offer any expertise on the pump details, but when I was in college and building water-cooled VWs on the cheap for myself, I was able to 'rebuild' oil pumps (that weren't too worn in terms of gear mesh) by sanding the end-plate that the gears rode on, on a flat piece of glass with wet sandpaper. Really did help, but not sure it this pump design would allow for that, or it that is even the issue!

TPR Motorsports · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:37 am

jkwade wrote:

One thing which stumps me is the oil pump. RPM Rons could not supply me a pre-July '74 pump, stating that the earlier pumps are different. Auto Zone also does not have the earlier '74 ones, but they do have the later '74 as well as the '73 pump. My gut tells me the '73 should work, as I can't imagine Toyota made a half year style of oil pump. Can anyone shed any light on this?

You can use any year oil pump n u won't have any issues. Mismatch 2tc n 3tc pumps, they all work, I know because I have pulled a pump out a 2tc n put it in a 3tc n daily drive the car and never had oiling issues. I've also put 3tc oil pumps in 2tc cars n still no issues.

I hope this helps.

TPR Motorsports · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:37 pm

i also wanted to point out that i have bought several "T" engined corollas which allegedly had dead cylinders or just bad compression, get the car home and come to find out it was just a valve adjustment done out of sequence, very common on these engines, and very easy to get the valve adjustment sequence out of whack. readjust the valves and all cylinders firing evenly and running great.

another notorious one that ive come across several times is that the lower alternator bracket will comes loose and beat against the block, sounds like a torn up engine and the worst part about it is that as u rev up the engine the noise gets worst and it really sounds like a tore up engine... lol pull the alt off tighten up those bolts and u are in business. i have seen in my time very few 2/3tc engines that were seriously hurt or dead, stock these things cant really hurt themselves unless u are just trying to intentionally hurt it of course.

anyway, that came to mind and just wanted to share.

great looking SR5 and a steal of a deal to boot, congrats on the purchase and if u need any help please dont hesitate to ask.

UtahSleeper · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:08 pm

Not to thread jack, but what is a good resource for adjusting the valves on the 2/3tc?

TPR Motorsports · **Posted:** Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:17 pm

UtahSleeper wrote:

Not to thread jack, but what is a good resource for adjusting the valves on the 2/3tc?

here u go

http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 816251.pdf

jkwade · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:48 pm

Just a quick note that the project is not dead though I have not updated this thread in a while. I just secured an engine hoist (finally), so tomorrow the real work begins.

Thanks for the oil pump info, I assumed that was the case. I will be going with a 73 pump, as it is $20 cheaper!

Just got back from the parts yard, picked up that exhaust manifold for $10. It was already sawed off at the end of the collector, right where it needed to be, so it only took about two minutes to remove. Very convenient!

Anyway, I will try to put some pictures up soon, as well as a bit more description.

My 1974 Corolla SR5

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