Well, here I go!
Here's my little 1974 peanut...
Body wise, it's pretty neat, only holes are in the rockers...
And I need to correct a past repair on the front driver fender for it to fit perfectly
So overall, it's pretty decent. There is a couple of bubble starting to appear here and there, but nothing rotten. I should be able to get away with local repair and local paint blended with the original. That fact that it is blue, it has resisted fadding quite a lot and the paint still looks pretty decent.
Apart from that, the engine bay is somewhat clean (and comes with a nice strut tower brace)...
...and you guys better get use to seeing the little teeny tiny 3K-C that's between the strut towers because I have no intensions of swapping it out
It has a front ADDCO sway bar....
...and a rear
Inside is pretty decent...
And I even carried my old steering wheel from my TE31. I also have a 3 mecanical gauge pod that fits like a glove in the original ashtray hole, so no puzzle with that!
What's worst with the car is the floor
I really believe that it wasn't worst that that before the repair... luckily, there is no rot or hole, but there is a lot of surface rust inside and out, so I'll need to take care of that fast before it really gets ugly. Both frame rail by the tranny need to be restored, but I have already done that to my old TE31... like they say : been there, done that... even got the t-shirt!
And there is little rust under the driver fender, on the support and the lower rad support is shot, but one again, nothing visible so it's a good thing for the paint.
The car currently has a 4 speed K40 tranny, but it came with a 5 speed K50... (nice difference next to the W40... and I'm not even talking about weight
49lbs vs 95lbs)
The problem is : the dude who sold me the car was probably unaware that cast alloy piece are not strong and if the holes are not aligned, it's not a good thing to torque the bolt to try to force it...
But it was in need of a rebuild, some of the bearing inside are a little noisy and the yoke bushing is not in good shape... so it'll probably turn out as my winter project!
Now for the plan on this thing...
First, the car is a non-runner because one of the front hub is shot and the bearing race are screwed (probably due to the last owner's failure to change bearing before they rip apart and take out everything with them. Luckily, I have a complet AE86 TRD front suspension that was supposed to go on my last project and never made it...
Shorten tube, TRD green shock and 6kg TRD coil, Polyurethane Bushing... along with the AE86 brakes, 9 1/4" veted to replace the 8" solid one, and freshly rebuilded calipers to go with them... forgot to take pictures
I have found a set of AE86 hub and steering knuckles since none of the KE stuff works... all that's missing is some RCA and I'll probably get a set of bushing adapters for the balljoint to be able to fit hte AE knuckles on the KE balljoint instead of trying to press a bigger balljoint in the KE LCA.
By doing that, I'll change the bolt pattern from 4x110 to 4x4.5... so I'll need to do something about the rear. The plan is to ditch the stock 5.7" or 6" rear for a 6.38" S diff... why?
Because I already have those (bearing, brakes and all)
That will upgrade my rear brakes from 8" to 9" drums to follow the front mod.
But their is one hell of a big reason why I didn't sale all of those things and bought back new bearing and brake for the small KE axle...
Yeah, that's a uber rare brand new in box TRD LSD for the 6.38" S diff... if I could find someone willing to trade a 6" TRD LSD for that one, I'd probably keep the KE diff and either redrill the axles to match the AE86 bolt pattern or locate some KE30 axles, but in reality, the 6" TRD LSD is probably as hard to find as the 6.38"...
So I ave also located an early S diff that I'll rebuild with all the piece above, I also have whiteline poly bushing to go with it and a pair of those
After all that is done, the plan is to fix the car's floor and other rust that's on it, including the frame rails... I've been through all of this on my TE31 so I have a pretty nice idea of what's to expect.
For the engine/tranny :
I'll start by fixing the K50's extension housing I have here and inspecting the tranny / rebuild what's out of specs.
So there is no plan to swap out the little mill form out of there. The rest is really really really unsure right now, but I'm starting to get some kind of a plan which is...
First, I have this mystery cam that came with the car
According to the interwebz, that code is for an aftermarket cam for an Opel CIH engine, ENEM is a scandinavian (or somewhere close) company that make those cam. But it's not an Opel CIH cam, definatly a toyota K cam so I'm thinking it must be a regrind following those specs which are :
Seat to seat dur 308°
came lobe spacing 108°
lift : 11.8mm (with the opel rocker arm ratio... I have no idea how it compares to the 3K)
I also have this...
4AGE silvertop intake manifold gathering dust in the basement for the last 5 or 6 years... along with a MS 1 or 2, can't remember...
So the plan might to put both in used on that little engine... milling the block and head and going a little oversize to achieve higher compression ratio. For the management, the plan is to KISS. I plan on using a stock distributor (or an electronic form a 4K) for spark timing and a fuel management with no feedback using the MS I already have : MAP, TPS, IAT, ECT. That's it. No idle stepper or IAC, I'll just modify the linkage so the stock choke cable cracks open the throttle to get a fast idle and I will adjust idle by using throttle stopper screw. I'll only need a little adapter manifold between the head and the throttles of the silvertop manifold. I'll ditch the stock lower manifold with vaccum ports, fuel rail and injectors in order to make some rooms (because there is not a lot between the engine and the strut tower. So I'll need use the ports that are on the throttle bodies for a vaccum signal and to run the vaccum advance on the dist... since the car has no power brake, the only other vaccum that I'll need is the PCV. Also, in order to keep things simple, I'll probably use a set of standoff injectors mounted in the velo stack. I'll have the luxury to mount them deep i the stacks because those 42mm TB are already way to big for the little engine so the injectors will not create to much restriction and that will be a little safer since the exhaust manifold is sitting right under there... but that will mean I can use a standard fuel rail form almost any 4 cyl DOHC car and just modify the mounting poits instead of having to fab one for the weird intake port spacing of the 3K and I'll save the hassle to make injector bung and mounting holes on my adapater manifold (made from scratch) and having to machine all this.
I think that's about it...
Feel free to post some feedback... oh and I don't care the the 3K is more suited as a boat anchor than a car engine... the engine/tranny combo weight the same as a 4AG long block and if I can get 100hp out of that thing, it'll be more than enough to get the "sub 800kg light as a coke bottle" shell some get up and go... it won't be fast, but it'll be fun... and should be nimble and nicely balanced.
I hope you don't change the body too much, the car looks perfect to me!
