All,

I have lurked around here long enough to see there are some serious KGC10 enthusiasts on this forum. It is time I post some pics of my own.

A pic of the front brake and suspension upgrade I am close to finalizing. Larger, newer and powder coated skyine struts. Weld on coilover kit. Camber plates. 8 way adjustable inserts. Stainless steel clear coated flex lines. Z32 aluminum calipers and brembo rotors. I need to finished double flaring the hard lines, fill and bleed.

If I could find R31 4 lug front hubs I could deeper on my offset.

looks great! what inserts are you using? its hard to see in the picture, but it looks like you still have the bump stops. are you going to remove them and use strut mounted bump stops? have you tested the height?

The bumps are still on. Ride height is great. I used a pic from during the build process. The car sits and handles fine. For inserts I used Tokiko 8 way adjustables. I also sectioned the strut housing.

I know I am a week late on posting the pics, but hey I was busy. Here are some shots of the rear brake setup.



The caliper is at the 9 o'clock position. (optimum). The direct bolt on kit available from Japan that has a machined bracket (more expensive kit) places the caliper at the 11 o'clock position.



This pic shows the small amount of metal I trimmed off the lower arm in order to clear the parking brake assembly.

The caliper is also mounted upside down in order to provide the proper cable pull direction. It is unconventional, and requires the caliper to be rotated to the 12 o'clock position for bleeding. Not a big deal in my world as bleeding the brakes only happens how often? The Japanese kit does not require the caliper to be installed upside down as there is enough clearance at the higher location. $3k was not a reasonable price for a rear disc brake conversion in my opinion. If you are not using the parking brake then mount the calipers the normal direction. Just remove the parking brake assy from the backside of the caliper. When the car is jacked up from the rear diff everything gets real close (rear shock, axle, caliper and lines). Once on the ground there is plenty of room.

http://victory50.com/index2.html Item 25 is the bolt on rear disc kit I mentioned. With the exchange rate the kit is roughly $2800. Ta ki for sure!

I called the builder of the brackets and he has more to include the stainless steel lines to go with it as well. I modified Z31 cables to work on my application.

Hope this helps.

Holy cow! seeing the pics on the computer really makes me realize, I need new rear spring and shocks pretty bad. They look disgusting.

I have received questions regarding my brake booster/master cylinder setup. My first thread has turned into a brake tutorial. I am happy to help. I opted for a KGC110 gt booster and a 15/16th master cylinder. Now there are a couple things that need to be changed before you bolt it together. First remove the check valves from the master cylinder. If you do not know what they are, search the Z car disc brake threads. Next you will need to swap out the booster rod end. The GT version is too long to be used with the 15/16th master cylinder. Luckily I had a worn KGC110 GTR booster laying around. It is a good fit.



The shorter rod end on the floor is what I installed. The longer "bronze" rod is the stock KGC110 GT part.

One can install the KGC110 GTR booster but it requires a spacer between it and the firewall. A larger master cylinder can be used on the GTR version as well. The stock Hakosuka booster and the (2) KGC110 boosters are about the same price. If you need to replace your booster I recommend going ahead with one of the upgrades since you will have to take it all apart and the cost is relatively the same.

On my next trip to Japan I will most likely pick up a full set of GTR32 calipers and rotors, DR30 master cylinder, KGC110 GTR booster and a K-Spec spacer; just to have on the shelf. You never know whe N/A will no longer be fun and the need for a turbo takes over.

Nice work on the suspension. Any shots of the whole car?

_________________
-Cam
1988 Mazda RX7
1980 Toyota Celica
a bunch of cool other cars I'm not allowed to list

when i installed my KGC110 booster, all i had to do was install the firewall spacer, that spacer took up the space the longer push rod required. i adjusted the pedal, and it worked just fine.

ive been driving on it for 2 years with no problem at all.

nice build so far. who did you get your rear disc conversion bracket from? this is a project i have wanted to do for a while now, just cant seem to bring myself to buy the bracket. (too busy buying other crap)

Wookie. Correct the spacer for the KGC110 GTR mounts on the backside as I stated. What size master cylinder did you use? The depth of the master cylinder piston contact area and the length of the push rods are different between different models. The built in adjustment is important when you start mix-matching components as I did.

I imagine you are using a 7/8th master. It is the more commoon option for your master vac.

I got my brackets from another forum member. Do you want a set? I bought the brackets and SS lines for $550. Not bad. I modified my own parking cables. I will have them professiosnally redone, but not until after JCCS.

whats the price on just that bracket?

Well I start building my cage this week. I have a few bits already purchased and sitting in the corner of the garage. I will take some time off of work to make sure I am ready for JCCS. I just might have the cage installed in time as well.

Are you doing bolt-in or weld-in?

How many touch down points? Pics?

-e

_________________
1970 Nissan Skyline GT + 1973 Datsun 240Z + 1974 VW Karmann Ghia + 1998 Toyota LandCruiser + 2006 MINI Cooper S

I am building a bolt in with welded in tub connectors. The traditional Jap cages are made of "hinge" connectors. I do not like these weak points. While I cannot imagine crashing this car, if it happens I want to survive.

what flares are those and how are they attached?

Works flares. Not bondo'd to the body.

I scored out of the classified section last week. Offset bumpsteer spacers. I will try and get these installed and the car aligned prior to JCCS.

Some pics from the roll cage bulding the last couple days.

Main hoop




Front bar


and a profile shot from outside the car


It will not be finished before JCCS. I am swamped at work and will be away from the car until Thursday night. There is always something to build or modify so it is never really finished.

Passenger and Driverside cage is symmetrical. I only posted one side pics. I am not fully determined how I am going to place the rear bars. Either to the fender wells and cutout the rear seat cushion or vintage style to the rear shelf area. Pondering....

looking good.....jncr i need me one of those cages.....