some new pics of various stuff

Roll center adjusters i just installed (some may install easier, but these required a little grinding to fit, but it was well worth it!

i bought an E-fan kit off the auctions a couple of years back and decided to throw it on the car a few weeks ago. i have my reasons. mostly because the car was running really hot on a mountain run i did a while back. the stock fan is tiny and didn't seem very efficient. only problem is no matter what temp sensor/switch i install, the damn thing will NOT work. i bought this switch from a local guy on base, and it works with a dummy switch and with a temp sensor. the rad is too thin for the temp sensor to get hot enough so i have to monitor the temperature closely and turn the switch on by hand.
im wondering if i buy a newer aluminum rad if it will work a bit better. theres not much clearance between the pulley and the rad so you have to install it offset a bit. it works really well so far. i just let the car warm up then throw the switch and leave the fan on. also you have to make sure its wired to pull air not push air (unless you put it in front of the rad which might be a smart move because of clearance issues)

here is a crappy pic showing how close the water pump pulley is to the fan.

that wire and silver piece you see over the pulley is the temp probe that came with the fan kit. i couldnt get it to work even with a heat gun, so im sure its shorted out. the auction didnt mention anything about it not working

put the temp probe in the hottest part of the rad:

ie bottom part of the rad - the 1.5" or 2" that are covered by the sheetmetal at the front of the car...
ie the part of the rad that is NOT exposed to cooling flowing air when you drive

then i'm sure it'll get hot enough

and then you'll also get a better idea of how hot the hottest parts of your coolant are getting...

i noticed a good 15degree C difference when i moved mine...

maybe an adjustable rheostat will help you dial in the exact time when the fans switch on...
just a suggestion...

-e

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1970 Nissan Skyline GT + 1973 Datsun 240Z + 1974 VW Karmann Ghia + 1998 Toyota LandCruiser + 2006 MINI Cooper S

i think i need to just order the same one that i used on my KA-T and SR20 builds, they kicked on without failure every time. i put the probe right where i put it for most of my builds, right at the water inlet on the upper corner of the rad, and i let the car idle for like 30 minutes in the garage, so there was no real airflow at all. i want to say about half the probe is exposed, and I'm betting that the end or near the end of the probe is where its most sensitive.

I think whether you put the probe in the top or bottom tank, also determines the heat range of the switch. IIRC the 810 had its sensor in the bottom tank, and its heat range was a fair bit cooler than other Datsuns which had it at the top.

FWIW, my thermoswitch is in the top tank, and switches on at 87 and off at 82C. Thermostat is 78C.

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A new clutch fan for a L6 is cheap. Probably cheaper than a quality e fan setup. I feel your pain though. I added an e-fan to the front of my rad to assist the stock fan. I do not fully trust the e-fan for longevity.

I like this stand alone setup.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Altronics/Altroni ... 6/10002/-1

My ecu contrls my e-fan. Temp select is adjustable.

mine's adjustable so i just go with what feels right...

-e

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1970 Nissan Skyline GT + 1973 Datsun 240Z + 1974 VW Karmann Ghia + 1998 Toyota LandCruiser + 2006 MINI Cooper S

nice, where does the sensor install?