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What engine should go in my Rx3 sedan ?
Single distributor 12a Rx3 engine 29%  29%  [ 4 ]
Twin distributor 12a PP engine 21%  21%  [ 3 ]
1600 808 4 cylinder 7%  7%  [ 1 ]
Leave it with the stock 10a drive line 29%  29%  [ 4 ]
Give my 12a housings to Dave and move on to the next big thing the Toyota Lexcen 14%  14%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 14
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:25 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Well more parts have been sent away for zinc plating which is pretty annoying really as I thought it would all be done by now. It's always the case of I can't put that on the car like that, I must have some sort of disorder ! Things are starting to get out of hand which was never the original intention. All I wanted was a tidy cruiser but but I'm now well beyond that point.

Arguably one of the best looking and most popular Japanese 70's cars it's disappointing that more quality repro stuff isn't available. I've given up trying to find alot of items that either rust or perish with age so have gone to the effort of having moulds made for parts that I require to finish to my satisfaction instead of having to compromise with generic crappy parts. If I help a few others and break even over the next 12 or so months I'll be more than happy.

On the news front the brake booster should be back this week, more parts have been dropped off for a chemical cleansing bath and re zincing including the fuel lines. There is a new plan for the ignition, the LSD is away being rebuilt, new axle bearings, and new rear demister screens are also on the way. In between all that I'm looking for a house so I have room for a proper workshop setup and another project at some point.

Recently I dropped into SelectMaz to specifically discuss a few things with Issy. One of my objectives is to not only have a nice cruiser but to also have a car that can used reliably at the odd circuit day. Once it's all done I'd love to take it down to Phillip Island for a bit of fun. Anyway while down at SelectMaz I had the LSD sent away to their diff guy, the ratio will be going from a 3.7 to a 3.9. Issy advised that given my objectives that I stick with the short nose centre as there were a host of ratios available. The long nose gears are not only harder to find but are limited to either 3.7 or 3.9 gear sets. While I was at it I'm having new bearing pressed onto the axles.

During the week I had a discussion with some mates regarding the upgraded ignition I had in mind and ignition timing specifically around mechanical and vaccum advance. Aside from them expressing concern at having 2 45000V hot spark units located under the passenger seat, everything else seemed OK. My response to having high voltage under the passenger seat was met with... I'll never be sitting their so what's the worry :lol: I left that night with a fair idea what I was on about and ended up doing a bit of reading on the topic.

Well everything seemed good until I ran the idea past Issy. His first comment was he wouldn't bother with a CDI for 2 reasons. 1. it's a 10a and 2. he mentioned that back in the day they used to say that CDI could potentially damage twin dizzy carbon apex seals. Well then, that sort of changed everything ! Back to the original plan of using a hi energy transistor ignition conversion with the twin dizzy distributors. He's given us a lead to follow up and I have another lead from some time ago from someone else. I know exactly what Im after I just need to find who produced the conversion. I have photos on an old computer that I'll retrieve next update. The second part to our ignition conversation was that I was under the impression that given the Bridge Port timing, extra fuel and Weber that I'd need to use more timing. According to Issy with all those non standard components and a decent exhaust the engine runs alot more efficently and requires less timing, typically around 20 deg on the leading plugs. He went further into dizzy modifications etc which I wont go into as they are covered on AR in other threads. Just when you think you understand it all along comes a pro and nicely tells you you have it all wrong !

On to the not so exciting photos.....

I was up for a bit of a challenge. Here's the worst dress ring I have, it has 2 very deep gouges. Too say they are between 3 and 4mm high would not be exaggerating. Diameter would be about the size of a 5c piece.
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The back tabs are bent out so I can work the area over a dolly. Pic 2, gradually working them out.
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Pretty much gone, you can only just see the repairs at a certain angle. Once it's on the car no one would ever pick that its been repaired. The outer rim still needs to be cleaned up and buffed. At that point I got bored of it and threw it back in the corner to get a few more scratches :lol: The old ones are worth repairing BTW, I got a new set a while back and another good original used set. My Mazda man told me the new ones that are now coming in are very poor quality and finish. Who knows where they are being made now.
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The LSD has been sent away for a rebuild, bearings and a 3.9 gear set. The axles are having new bearings pressed on. Notice how left and right are different lengths.... strange !
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They are pressed on with collars, I couldn't be bothered changing them myself so gave them to Issy. Pic 2... more plating stuff... brake brackets, horn brackets and new fluid reservoir from Mazda.
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The brake reservoir mount is made from 2 brackets. The clutch master is mounted as well although I had to remove the studs and drill them out. They must be a universal Mazda one for various models. Rx3 has the studs mounted through the firewall from the pedal box.
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A new clutch slave has been fitted. If anyone has a spare L shape hose mounting bracket let me know please. This L bracket screws to the firewall and secures the slave clutch hose. Pic 2, a previous owner chopped the end off the fuel hose so I'll need to flare the end so the fuel hose won't pop off. The metal fuel lines have been sent away for a cleaning and replating in zinc. I've decided to stick with the steel lines over the replacement copper lines. The copper looks weird too me. I'm doing the same with the brake and clutch lines, that is retaining or using steel lines over copper lines.
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Little things like this bug me, several drop and scratch marks in the passenger barrel. Now you see them, now you don't 8)
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Drum brake backings, blasted and primed ready for some 2K black.
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Dizzy's blasted clean ready to be converted. The clips will be sent away to be zinc plated, forgot about those which is why there is always a next time.
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I rubbed some scotch brite over the dizzy to return the natural alloy colour. Pic 2, headlight housings were together then I decided the mounting screws should be replated. I originally convinced myself that it wasnt required ! I'm looking at installing semi sealed beams instead of sealed beams to get a bit more light out of them.
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Pic 1, more plating to be done... regulator cover, washer motor cover and headlight hardware + a few other things. Pic 2, some stuff that has come back, diff and rear brake mounting hardware.
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That's it for now....
I should have the first of the rear windscreens in the next 3 weeks. I've also found original windscreen mounting kit, the original type were you run 12V through the windscreen seal to press them in. I think they are a better idea than having them glued in which is how they are done now, makes replacement much easier.

For people interested in new coupe glass your looking at $630 for a new rear windscreen with demister, and $1050 for a set of 4 side glass, compliant to Australian standards. It's all custom order, the cost is in the tooling not the glass ! Send me a PM if you'd like further details.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 3:41 pm 
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Wow. :shock:

Some day I would love to go this deep into a resto, but I don't think I have the patience... :P


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:37 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Australia
Awesome work as always mate,
I seen you are doing an order for coupe glass! I'm excited and upset at the same time, as this is one thing I'm not happy with on my coupe, and now there somewhat avalible I can't purchase due to my traveling/ financial position :( I have noted you cutoff date and hopefully I can work something out as purchaseing a few would be a great investment.
Matt


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:48 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Haha, not sure I have much patience myself. Any normal person would ask why !

No problem Buzz3n, send me a message with what you have in mind. I'll put an ad here to try and generate more interest. There was no way I was going to reuse the rear glass I have, all well past its used by date, much like the car :lol: Organising the glass has taken a bit of effort and expense. There is demand for them by people who are building or own nice cars however its very low :( When compared to the cost of new replacement glass for any modern car this side of 15years old I think people will find they are cheap in comparision. Unfortunately people compare the new Rx3 glass with 40 year old scratched up glass that sells for much less. It would be interesting to know what new replacement glass is worth for a new Mazda, Honda or Nissan, I think some people would be shocked !

I'm organising a bulk shipment to Sydney for central pickup. Melbourne I work out with individuals. Other states unfortunately I don't have facilities to unload at those ends. If you live in Tassy, WA, NT the cheapest way would be for 3 or 4 of you to buy and have them shipped in a crate. You'll need a forklift to unload off the truck though, otherwise I can drop off to a Pack and Send outlet which can be sent to your door.

Anyway this is only being done because I really need it to complete this car and at least one other, if a few others are helped along the way even better 8)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:53 am 

Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:50 am
Posts: 2
Location: Malaysia
gypsy... i really envy your hard restoration work my fren.. :)
wishing mine could be like yours... someday perhaps...


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:44 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Thanks !

With a bit of luck I might be able to attend one of the cruises around November if everything works out my way :) A bit of money has been spent recently getting the car to a road going state. The rear end is still at SelectMaz getting it's complete makeover, bearings, clutch pack, shaving the axles so the LSD will fit in etc etc. The booster has come back from the brake specialist, big thumbs up there.

I've also been looking over the engine so I can get it started in the coming months. Ignition is finally finalised, thanks go to Simon and Billy for pointing me in the right direction some 18months ago. I've come full circle and sent the distributors for a High Energy transistor ignition makeover. Basically both units are being modified to house a more modern setup suitable for the bridgeport. It's the same system used in some of the group Nc Rx2's so is more than good enough for this car. After looking around there are at least 3 places that perform various conversions for twin distributor setups depending on what you want. They all go about it in different ways.

Knocking the spacer off the old brake master cylinder for a clean up.
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Spacer cleaned....pic 2, got my booster back from the brake specialist. I'm very happy with the work performed by Northern Brake and Clutch, Flemington. Neil is a master of his trade. It got pulled apart blasted and pretty much most of the guts replaced !
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Here are some of the components that were replaced. The diaphram got damaged because they had to weld a wire to one of the rusted solid retaining clips to disassemble the unit. I've ordered new wheel cylinders for piece of mind, not worth overhauling the old units. As seen in the second photo, a some bits were pretty rusted out.
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Spacer on with the reco'd booster and a new Mazda master cylinder hopefully = no break in problems.
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Repro Bendix decal from Letzgo (Steve). Pic 2, started repairing the sail trims....
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Assembling the booster connecting rods and the clutch spring. I didn't run into any problems using the auto 808 pedal box, the Rx3 clutch and brake pedals bolted on no problem.
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Adjusting pedal height...
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A bitch of a job, installing gutter chrome that RestoreMaz fixed some 3 or 4 years ago. The insides are filled with cavity wax then they are literally wrestled into place, not a job for the impatient or wreckless type !
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One side done with the gutter chrome... Pic 2 got my buckles back. They were instructed to copper plate only but went ahead and chromed them. Ah well at least they did a decent job this time :) They'll be sent off to a seat belt place to have new webbing put on later this week. I wouldn't mind some photos of rear seat belts specifically where they are hung on the hooks. If you have a 71,72 or 73 model send me some pics. Seat belts changed on later models.
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That's it, hopefully I'll have some photos of the new rear end and ignition for next update. I got sent some pics of someone else restoring flair yellow 10a coupe in Melbourne, looks hot lowered with whitewalls. I'll be doing the same I think, I most likely wont be fitting dress rims, I think they look much better without them.

.... Also I'm starting to collect deposits for the rear windscreens this week, if you are interested and haven't told me so send me a PM.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:38 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Small update... Quite a few things have been sent out for refurbishment recently, I should have them all back in the next 2 or 3 weeks which means the car should almost be a runner once those parts are installed. An exhaust is on the short list for the near future, I have some Racing Beat headers that will be matched to twin 1 3/4 " system to the diff into a 2.5" rear muffler. I'm hoping a couple of resonators in the centre section and 2 good mufflers should shut it mostly up. Once the exhaust is set up I'll finish off setting up the Weber. I'm possibly looking at installing a heat shield to prevent the intake getting warm, this has been suggested by the 2 different mechanics that have been working on various parts of the car. Ceramic coating may be an alternative that will need to be checked out.

I've also found the correct seatbelt webbing which was delivered Friday. The webbing is identical to early 70's Fords, Holdens and Valiants. When put side by side it looks to be 100% match. The belts with the replated parts have been sent away to have new webbing installed. To finish them off I'm currently having a quote done to remake the plastic seatbelt ends that are riveted on and the little plastic rectangle box covers that go over the front seat belt adjustment points. If the quote is reasonable I'll have them made. These bits are typically found on most 70's Mazda's. If I can't find the little parts I'm after them I'll have them remade is the new motto :)

With a bit of luck I may be cruising around late November 8)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Adelaide
Getting close now Gypsy. :D the car is looking amazing. It's all the small detail bits that make such a difference and separate good cars from great cars. I' not sure that there is word for your car yet.......


Keep up the great work!!


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:12 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Slowly getting closer to completion, the finishing off bit is taking forever. I should have the seatbelts and distributors both back in the next week or two. Fuel lines and other parts that are currently being plated should be back soon as well. The focus has moved to getting the car going.

I'm in the process of painting small bits and pieces before they are installed on the car. Pic 1 shows 2 different products to achieve a matt finish. Matting clear is as the name suggests a matt clear and is used in conjuction with a base coat paint system. The other tin I've mentioned before and is used to get a matt finish on a single stage paint system (no clear). I had some colour mixed to paint the sail trims and the rear plastic vent covers. Pic 2, is a metalic alloy colour to match the sail trims. I never realised that the sail trims were painted, I discovered they weren't while rubbing them back to getting them looking new again. The plan is to paint them in the alloy metalic base coat then spray them with the matt clear coat. Once the clear has dried I'll rub the clear coat with some 600 wet to hopefully give them the original brushed aluminium look. Hopefully I get the affect I'm after.
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I've blasted the rear pillar vents, I matched the original plastic colour as best I could. The only issue was that the paint mixing machine didn't have the matting tint to get the effect I was after. I got the paint shop to mix the colour and then tell me how many grams of matting tint were required. I already had the matting tint which I generally mix with solid black to paint suspension components or anything in a solid colour that I don't want glossy. Pic 2, mixing up the matting tint to add to the paint.
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Zero the scales with the cup.... pour the required weight...
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Mix the two together and we're done. When I'm ready all that I need to do is mix the hardener and a little reducer in the specified ratios. When I spray the rear vents they'll come up in a matt colour similar to the natural plastic.
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Here's a photo of the seatbelt webbing that I sent away with the belts, perfect match in every regard. Pic 2, I've started rebuilding the front end. I'll be fitting new lowered springs, shocks and upgraded brakes.
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The rattle gun gets 40 year old rusted bolts off in seconds. You'd be struggling with a vice and breaker bar. Nothing like good air tools. Pic 2, control arms and suspension bits were stripped and painted some time ago, they need to be dusted.
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Spring clamps and the rattle gun make final disassembly a breeze.
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One of my concerns was that I thought I'd need to shorten the shock arm with the lowered springs, happy that I don't. I was going to get coilovers but after looking into it there was no benefit. Realistically once you set the ride hieght thats it, if you change the ride height you'll need an alignment. Basically you set and forget, unless you're running a race car I personally wouldn't bother. As previously mentioned the other thing that made the decision easy were the spring rates that came with coilovers (way too hard). I sent a quick email to King springs to get the specs of their Rx3 springs, response was 180LBs/inch which is still on the firmer side for a road/ street car I think but far better than the rates that I've seen with coilovers. The Kings spring rate is around the figure that Mazda used in there race prep'd Rx7's in the early 80s. Yep I could've got coilovers, thrown out the springs and had another set made but I'd rather spend the money elsewhere. ~$800 v's $120, decision was made easier :)

Some basic facts on Rx3 spring rates...
1972 1.85Kg/mm
1973 2.0Kg/mm
1974 2.1Kg/mm

If my calculations are correct the Kings lowered springs are 180LBs/in which works out to 3.21Kg/mm which is 65% firmer than the 74 model Rx3's which had the firmest springs. Coilover kits appear to start at 4kg/mm depending on who you go with.
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I got my axles back from SelectMaz, very happy. Issy machined the ends to the axles 5mm each so the axles don't hit the LSD center. He fitted new bearing and supplied new seals that I will fit once I paint the diff housing.
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Finally SelectMaz organised to fit new bearings to the LSD, fit the 3.9 gear set I supplied and have his guy check and replace the friction plates as required. The clutch pack in the LSD was perfect, I got the center from Japan many years ago, suppose I got lucky.
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I'm planning on sending the front struts away for new shock inserts. I've noticed there arent many options for Rx3's. Im thinking of fitting Tokico Illumina adjustables from a first gen Rx7. I know the shock body itself is shorter than the Rx3 ones and require a spacer to be fitted under the shock body such as this.

Does anyone know if the actual shock arm (the chrome shaft) is the same length as the Rx3 ones ?
Better yet could someone post the diameter of an Rx7 (first series) shock arm as well as the arm length (the chrome shaft) ?

While that gets sorted out I hopefully should have a set of 4 spots next week to go on the front which I'll get to fit under the steel 13's. I've now spoken to a few people including Issy and I'm convinced its the way to go. They've got good reports from everyone that uses them. Interestingly the group Nc Escort guys had a debate going between vented girling 4 spots (Volvo's) and not vented ts16 caliper setup. I'm not sure what the TS16 setup is off (Renault ??) however they're suggesting that there is no performance increase in laptimes using the solid rotor setup.... interesting reading ! They also have a good whinge about the Rx2's. Funnily enough the Escort back in the day was far more successful than any Mazda rotary. I'll have to dig up those results from the very early 70's to about 1980.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:34 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
The last of the photos until I finsh the front end.

To remove the front shock insert you need to use a special tool with locating pins. I modified a buffer key that I had lying around. The pins had to be welded up as the shock insert cap was damn tight. In the end I gave up and used a more precise method, cold chisel and hammer :lol: Got it off in minute that way. Shocks normally come with new screw in caps so no great loss.
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Well once opened up they weren't the pristine Bilsteins I was expecting. Now Gabriel shock absorbers isn't a brand that I've heard of in over 10 years. These ones were made is the USA. More importantly I would have thought the hydraulic oil was suppose to be contained within the shock cartridge not outside of the cartridge !
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The oil as you can see has all seeped out. These shocks are at least 20years old, unless there's something special about them they'll be going in the bin. The car would have handled like a boat bouncing over every bump with shocks like that. Pic2, the struts will need to be degreased internally to clean out the oil then will get a coat of paint. I bought new strut tops from Mazda a few years ago to replace the old cracked ones.
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Next time you see these they'll be painted up and new looking with 4 pot brakes powder coated pink, finished off with a Brembo sticker :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:37 am
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Location: Ballarat
Hey bloke,
Those are strut inserts, the originals have been replaced a long time ago.
The original struts are a piston with seals and oil sealed in the strut housings.
When you replace the original struts with new inserts, the instructions tell you to put
oil in the bottom of the housing before tightening the strut gland nut.
I think previous installer went a little crazy with the oil! :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:23 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:48 pm
Posts: 21
Location: australia
hi john,the trims are most likely neutral anodized.Motorcycle frames in the past had the same finish.You can sand off all the anodizing and give them a brushed finish by some 240 grit and get them re anodized


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:29 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:48 pm
Posts: 21
Location: australia
ive also replicated that finish by using DNA virtual chrome.You paint the part in 2K black first,bake it out then haze the material over in the lightest of coat.Next part is tricky,you very lightly rub it with 2000 grit to give it the brushed look then flat clear it.Ive done this with a newer remake triumph bonneville to make the tank,plastic side panels and plastic gaurds look like they are stainless steel parts


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:01 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Since I got the basecoat mixed I'll give it a go and see what happens. I've got a second pair that I'll repair and send away for neutral anodizing. Never hurts to experiment, appreciate the tips. I've always wanted to play around with chrome paint.

I'm looking at buying some of the DNA chrome base to restore some original white door trims I have. I have to send the vinyl trims away and see what sort of job they do repairing the vinyl first. Whats the go with DNA Key Clear, that stuff looks more expensive than top shelf clear coat, do they package it in a solid gold tin ?


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:51 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:48 pm
Posts: 21
Location: australia
ive got that key clear but i think its horse shit to be honest with you mate


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:52 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:48 pm
Posts: 21
Location: australia
in fact the DNA tins are quite fancy :)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:41 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Seat belts are now done, just need to find some good black plastic box covers for the front seat belts adjuster and 4 seat belt end caps that aren't cracked, broken or worn badly as seen in the second photo. The chrome has been redone and internals cleaned and electroplated in zinc. They look really nice :) I was lucky in that I had 2 really good twin rear tongue hangers. Front ones use a single rubber hanger and easily found new.

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Pic 1 is of the rear seat belts, also means that the rear seat base can now be installed. The project is starting to frustrate me because all the small finishing stuff can't be found. I now recall why why it's been over 10 years since the last project car. These sorts of seat belts (lap sash) are found normally in pre 74 across the Mazda range. You'll see them in R100s, Rx2s, Rx3s up to around 1973.

If anyone is interested in the plastic end caps and some new box covers like the ones in the second photo send me a pm. The plastic adjuster box covers I have at a manufacturer are textured and not a smooth finish like in second photo. Aside from that they are identical. If there is enough interest I'll consider having them made, if not I'll spend a day going through a wrecking yard to find something suitable.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:53 am 
Mild Cam
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
gypsy wrote:
The project is starting to frustrate me because all the small finishing stuff can't be found. I now recall why why it's been over 10 years since the last project car.


Don't give up, you're so close! I know it's going to be awful trying to track stuff like this down when my car is coming together, but it'll all be worth it in the end. 8)

_________________
-Cam
1980 Toyota Celica
1984 Porsche 911
1988 Mazda RX-7
Ex-JNCs: 1980 Datsun 510, 1979 Mazda RX-7, 1986 Mazda RX-7, 1992 Mazda Miata
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:28 pm 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Location: Australia
I don’t think I’d ever give up on it just whinge a lot. :lol: It all comes down to how far I want to go. The original intention was to build a period Australian street car, somehow that got skewed to going original then finally into a Japanese theme. With a couple of days work the car could be returned back to standard. I’ve intentionally purchased original running gear including the hard to obtain air cleaner for this reason. I’m still missing a couple of items but I’ll find them at reasonable cost in time.

I’m still waiting on the distributors and a call for the rear windscreens. Once both these items show up the car will be pretty close to complete. I’m really keen to see the distributor conversion more than anything.

The brake upgrade has arrived as well, these were off a race car. The adapter brackets could only be described as crude at best ! I can now see why fitting these under the standard 13” steel rims is going to be a problem. While the outside diameter is 13” the inside diameter is much less than that creating clearance problems. If you chose the correct 13inch rims they’d go straight on I reckon.

The main idea behind the brake upgrade was so that I could have a little fun at the odd track day. The original brakes are solid 230mm rotors with single caliper rotors. You’d be lucky to get a couple of laps in before you fried them and got left with lots of brake fade. The new rotors are 22mm vented units and 265mm diameter. They’d be similar to what’s used in the group Nc Rx2 race cars.

While the intention was a good I think fitting them over the steel wheels is a lost cause. You’d have to offset the calipers too much to get the rims on. I have a similar problem with the 14” A style 6.5” Watannabe front rims. While there is plenty of room in the rim diameter, the calipers just scrape part of the rear inside face of the rim. Double whammy :(

The Wat’s shouldn’t be much of an issue, I’ll come up with a new adapter caliper bracket for that to offset them another couple of mm. I’ve also got an idea so I can run different rotors by having an adjustable offset caliper mount. I’ll play around and come up with some templates and then go see the engineering shop.

The down side too all this is whenever I want to use the standard rims I need to fit the original brakes, probably a 2hr job for both sides. In the short term standard brakes it is !


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:49 am 
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Posts: 321
Location: Australia
I have those springs on my 323. I can't tell that they are much stiffer than stock, just a bit lower..

It is exciting to see it looking more and more like a car with each update :D


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