1975 C110 (KHGC110 240K) Build

kev · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:47 pm

ylwgtr2 wrote:

hey ho ole rusty will ive to fight another day!Just thought id clear up some things....the adhesion promoter is a dupont product call 222s.Also in regards to the alsa stuff i have that stuff here also,its not really that great.There are a few products out there that get the same results as the alsa stuff....one made in australia is mirror chrome by DNA.I spose it would be ok on small parts but it goes a bit milky when you put the clear over the top....i have heard of guys tinting off the clear with a touch of blue to wake it up a bit....i had some pictures of an old triumph bonneville i painted in it....i cant find them...you paint the part in gloss black first,bake it....make sure its faultless then you haze the lightest coat of this stuff on,then clear it

Ah so the ALSA stuff's no good?

Well we'd be using it to rechrome plastic interior trim, so things like chrome strips along the door cards etc and nothing big that would require a clearcoat.

That DNA stuff looks the biz, but they don't seem to do a home DIY pressure-pak kit.

Adzmax · **Posted:** Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:38 pm

I sent my bumpers away to be straightened and re-chromed a couple of month ago or so. They were in pretty poor shape with a lot of dents and surface rust etc. I used the same place that did my electroplating on the headlights and tail lamps.

I picked them up from Vinny's (http://www.vinneys.com.au) yesterday and the results are spectacular. They look better than new, I don't think the chrome finish would have been this good from factory! I'd highly recommend them for any Australians looking for metal work. The turn around time on work is generally very good and the cost per bumper is $300ex tax. When you consider the finish of these bumpers and the work that goes into this I think it's very good value!

The next thing I need to do its fit some stainless bolts into the reflectors so I can fix them to the bumpers and then source some replacement chrome plated fixing bolts for the bumpers, I'll try Rare Spares or worst case, Yahoo Japan. I'm also goign to assemble the parkers/reflectors and fix them back into the bumper so I'll take some shots of the finished product

pedro · **Posted:** Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:00 am

Wow that is ridiculously cheap for bumpers in that condition as a base to get refinished.

Do they do anything to clean up the back side?

kev · **Posted:** Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:04 am

Second that (I got quoted $150 just for an ashtray LOL)

ylwgtr2 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:34 am

kev wrote:

ylwgtr2 wrote:

hey ho ole rusty will ive to fight another day!Just thought id clear up some things....the adhesion promoter is a dupont product call 222s.Also in regards to the alsa stuff i have that stuff here also,its not really that great.There are a few products out there that get the same results as the alsa stuff....one made in australia is mirror chrome by DNA.I spose it would be ok on small parts but it goes a bit milky when you put the clear over the top....i have heard of guys tinting off the clear with a touch of blue to wake it up a bit....i had some pictures of an old triumph bonneville i painted in it....i cant find them...you paint the part in gloss black first,bake it....make sure its faultless then you haze the lightest coat of this stuff on,then clear it

Ah so the ALSA stuff's no good?

Well we'd be using it to rechrome plastic interior trim, so things like chrome strips along the door cards etc and nothing big that would require a clearcoat.

That DNA stuff looks the biz, but they don't seem to do a home DIY pressure-pak kit.

The reason why they dont do pressure pack is that you cant get a fine enough mist.....when i use this stuff i screw the material stopper almost all the way in on a .6mm gun,max the airflow out and dust the lightest hint on the job.So 98% air 2% material...you use F all of the product.It looks shit'e then you hose off or use a special rag to take off the product dust because it looks like fine metallic then.....whammo you have chrome.....it doesnt wear very well at all without clear

Adzmax · **Posted:** Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:06 pm

pedro wrote:

Wow that is ridiculously cheap for bumpers in that condition as a base to get refinished.

Do they do anything to clean up the back side?

Yeah I was slack and didn't take a picture, I'll get one to show you tonight. They look just as good as the front, only they are not chrome, more like like a rust inhibiting zinc finish.

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:21 am

OK so here's a picture of the backs, just as clean as the front!

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:31 pm

I've been doing some more work on the interior today. The pillar covers in C110's seems to deteriorate really badly from UV exposure. I have two problems, my interior is blue, and most of my pillar trims are warped and cracked beyond repair. I sourced a passenger side c-pillar trim from Japan and a forum member was kind enough to donate a snapped drivers side a-pillar trim.

Troy has some plastic welding tools he uses to repair motorbike fairings which are perfect for this job. A soldering iron is used to join/melt to two pieces together and create a channel to fill with new material.

The channels are loaded with plastic which is heated by a heat gun, it's almost like soldering!

The end result is extremely strong, so strong in fact that you can actually flex the entire piece without breaking the join, it would probably snap elsewhere first.

Next I sanded back the piece and drilled out the fastening hole.

I bogged up the pillar cover, sanded it back and then sanded the entire piece ready for high fill.

I hit all the pieces with a soft pad ready for high filling, rubbing back and painting. Not sure what I'm goign to do with the texture yet but I'm sure it will come up nice.

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:25 am

I finally received the gaskets I've been waiting on from Japan for the parker/indicators. I've been keen to get these back together so I can fit them back into the bumper.

I didn't realise how bad the old gaskets were until I put them side by side. The old set had shrunk quite considerably.

The lights have come up pretty good I'll fit them back into the bumpers soon and take some more snaps.

Camshaft · **Posted:** Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:23 am

I'm eager to see how you recreate that texture, I've always wondered how you go about restoring textured interior trim...

Adzmax · **Posted:** Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:36 pm

It's a bit hard to see here because these pictures are not the best, but this is the end result. It's not the same finish as original but personally I like it better.

This is the broken piece I was working on -

I'll get some better pictures once I pick them up. :tu:

Camshaft · **Posted:** Wed Jul 25, 2012 5:37 am

That turned out really good, what kind of paint did you use?

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:44 pm

BeanBone · **Posted:** Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:36 pm

These are my favorite kind of threads. This is amazing, great work!

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sun Aug 05, 2012 3:44 am

Thanks for the compliments guys.

We finished off the pillar covers yesterday. Even though I cleaned the pieces down with Prepsol and rubbed them back, the rear pieces had some problems with the finish and there was still some slight bows where they rear pieces has been heated back into shape. I rubbed back the high fill and bogged up the problem spots them prepared them for painting again.

The final finish isn't true to the original pieces but I'm still quite impressed with the overall look.

Adzmax · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:20 am

Thanks, it's high fill. I didn't paint these so I'm not sure sorry. I believe no thinner is used in the gun and the layers are slowly built up. Troy's the pro here, not me.

I called into the auto trimmers last week and dropped off my door skins. The original interior is in really poor condition and it's blue anyhow so it all has to go. I've had a lot of trouble finding fabric to match the original vinyl but I think the pattern I've chosen should look pretty good once the whole car is trimmed.

These are the fabrics I've chosen.

The most difficultly part of the door trims to replicate is going to be the plastic chrome trim. The entire door skins are multi layered and when they are made, layers of vinyl including the plastic bright work are ultrasonicly welded together.....pretty much impossible to replicate.

The new trims is going to be sewn so I need to come up with a way to remake the chrome trim. At this stage I'm thinking I'll take a cast of the existing chrome work and then remake the strips using some kind of resin. I'll cast some threads into the strips to fix them though the door skins. Once they are make I'll send to them away to be chrome plated and then make and spray them.

gypsy · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:44 pm

Adzmax wrote:

Thanks, it's high fill. I didn't paint these so I'm not sure sorry. I believe no thinner is used in the gun and the layers are slowly built up. Troy's the pro here, not me.

If Troy's not using a reducer with a fast flash off (so the Hi Fill doesn't flow) then I'm guessing he's wound in the fluid knob and dropped the gun air pressure right down so there isn't enough air to atomise the Hi Fill so when you pull the gun trigger its almost spitting the primer. Using a smaller than recommended fluid nozzle may produce a similar effect ie instead of using a 2.2 use a 1.6 although you might find the Hi Fill girgles in the paint cup instead of spraying out the nozzle !

The reason why he'd gradually build up the layers is because if you spray the primer wet its going to want to flow which means you'll loose the grainy affect. Basically if you set the gun up similar to someone who's painting a car for the first time you should yield the same result :lol:

Am I on the money :lol:

Great build, look forward to each update :mrgreen:

31GUN · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:57 pm

Your attention to detail is awesome!
Do it once and do it right.

ylwgtr2 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:11 pm

close john....but no cigar....the cats out of the bag,in fact wind the volume nozzle way back,low pressure and wave from a distance.....motorcycle frames/fork legs have cast finish in some areas.I use this technique to fix parts all the time,it aint rocket science but ive done a lot of trial and era over the years with hit and miss results.Im at the stage where i can get it pretty consistant every go now....so you would think after 20 years!Its become a lot easier since materials have gotten better and ofcourse since they started painting cast parts....i used to spend hours with the TIG building up cast with weld and grinding it back and hammering away with 24 grit sand paper taped to the end of my planishing hammer for raw unpainted cast alloy finish's!!!!!!

Adzmax · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:27 pm

Well there you have it. :tu:

Big thanks to Troy, there is no way I'd be able to do half of this stuff without his expert guidance, thanks again mate

1975 C110 (KHGC110 240K) Build

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