just discovered that my car sits so low that it actually sits on the front bump stops, which explains why the front is SO damn rough..

has anyone removed theirs, or found an alternative to this?? am i the only one who sits this low? it doesn't even seem that low to me.

maybe i should pull them off and see who much clearance i have. i pulled the rears off because of this too, the rear is so much better now, it actually has a little movement, and handles better.

i have some horrible bump steer right now, anyone know ways to work out bump steer problems?

yep, bump steer spacers

AKA roll centre adjustors

Ya that is what I did on myt hako. I made like 4 extra sets but if you are useing stock brakes then they will have to be ground down a little for a clearance issue with the rotor.

I ditched the stock bumpstop in mine, and am using a conventional bumpstop in the shock:


I don't think I have the clearance to run the bumpstop spacers (I run 14in wheels) but I don't have any issues with bumpsteer. Get your alignment checked, and have a look at your ball joint and tie rod end wear. If say, you have a little bit of slop in the joints and it's toeing out at the same time, it'll wander all over the road.

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Yea, mine wanders ALL over the place, i need to do a lot of front end work. i think that first thing i should do is build a set of coilovers for it, but MAN.. i dont want to cut the front strut housings up and mess it up.. im pretty sure they are gonna be a PAIN to replace if anything goes wrong with the build

i see they come in many different sizes, how do you know what size you need?? (roll centers adjusters)

and you said you made extras, are you selling them?

Hey Tim

In case Reid is out of his, I bought a set from T3 and won't be using them cause they hit my MK63 vented rotors...
The one's T3 sell are about 1" thick and anodized dark red - you can see them on his site...

IF I can get RCAs to work on my car, they would need to be about half as thick IMO...

Reid's struts came out pretty damn nice... maybe he can offer some advice? at the end of the day you guys are only separated by us priority mail - not INTERNATIONAL mail... thanks to your line of work! The adjustable sleeves he used look like the cleanest ones i've seen short of a full threaded housing...


Depending on how involved you want to get with your suspension, there are other options...
On the Z, I had the LCA pivot moved up & out about 3/4" with a new hole obviously drilled / strengthening plate welded into front subframe... that car has T3 adjustable LCAs for track width to help even everything out... I've seen similar adjustable LCAs for sale for Hako's too...

BUT if you make the switch to spherical / rose joints and plan to continue driving your car on the street it will feel a bit rougher than running stock rubber, or poly bushings...



Let me know,

-e

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1970 Nissan Skyline GT + 1973 Datsun 240Z + 1974 VW Karmann Ghia + 1998 Toyota LandCruiser + 2006 MINI Cooper S

Here you go. viewtopic.php?f=12&t=19003

The biggest decision to make on the coilovers is determining which strut insert you want to use. MR2, AE86 or any of the aftermarket Z car options. Once you determine which insert, the rest falls into place. The strut is cut down to accommidate the insert. The coil perch is welded in place as dictated by the length of travel the strut insert allows. Spring rate also plays a part but is easily interchangeable after the strut body is built.

Good news is there are many proven combinations for an L powered (engine weight) car. Spring rate, strut insert and brake options are all bolt ins.

I would square up the steering issues before tackling the coilovers. Coilovers are not going to solve a loose or worn out steering setup.

DeRux, how thick are your bump steer spacers?

The thicknees of a bumpspacer all depends on how low you are going. The main reason for these is to get your lower arms back so the they are level with the ground or pointed a little downwards. For my DR30 because it is low this ment I need to make inch and a quarter thick ones (1.250). The average spacer is one inch thick.

The spacers I built for the hako are 1.00 thick as are the extra set I made. I did have some issues with them hitting my brakes too. I have to grind them flat on the side closer to the rotor. I also had to grind down the steering knuckle (thing that strut bolts to) cause it hit the rotor too.

The best way to see if you need some of these spacer is to look under your car and see how youe LCA's look.

Tim,

Adding to what Reid said: thickness of RCA's limiting factor is going to be your rim diameter...

The thicker the RCA, the closer the lower ball joint grease nipple gets to the inner rim... maybe measure that dimension first to get an idea what the maximum you can get away with is... then worry about how close the RCA gets to the back side of your brake rotor

-e

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1970 Nissan Skyline GT + 1973 Datsun 240Z + 1974 VW Karmann Ghia + 1998 Toyota LandCruiser + 2006 MINI Cooper S

i will go out there and check how my offset will be and see if i have much room, I'm running 15's, but wouldn't mind going to 16's to be honest with you, i think it will have a more tucked look, and have plenty of ground clearance. E Pm me a price on the ones you have if you aren't planning to use them if you are looking to sell, i was planning to buy a set last night that were 25mm, but i think they sold before i made the order, and I'm driving to a car show next weekend thats pretty far away, so it would be nice to work out this bug a little before that show. Thanks for the input everyone, i will get out there and see how much clearance i have and report back.

looks like i have a good bit of clearance, so I'm thinking that 25mm would probably be ok, and will help a good bit.
not sure if i told you guys, but i USED to use the tension rod mount for my front jacking point, its easy to get to, and the jack fit under it really well... HOWEVER, one of mine all but broke away from the frame rail last time i had to get under it. one of my close friends is pretty much a master welder, so i planned on having him just cut the piece off and box in the frame rail on both sides, then re-attach the mount, but once we got it on the lift, it looks to be a bit more complex. he want dot have the metal shop build something to match the frame rail, but the placement might not be exact, so i might have to order those damn $350 tension rods that are adjustable.. this damn car is possessed, and money hungry!

heres the damage. not sure how well you can see it.


i don't think you can see what I'm talking about, but the piece is pushed pinto the frame rail about 1/8th of an inch, doesn't look too bad in that picture, but the tension rod is touching the sway bar bracket, which i don't like at all..

when we repair this side, i will have him do the same on the other side to prevent further problems, and to match front integrity.

Hmm, crusty under there.

I would not recommend using the T/C rod mount as a jack point. Use a low profile jack and center on the front cross member. The T/C mount is not designed to be a lift point.

Your money pit is just begining. I have over 35K "invested" into my pride and joy so far. Initial purchase was only 4.5k.

quick pic for reference on my front strut coilover assembly.



I run Z32 calipers and rotors up front and a 15" rim. I should get a set of bump steers from DeRux. next.

i definitely have a LONG way to go with mine, it was in storage for 9 years by the previous owner, and im sure before that it was hidden in a field.. it has a LOT of small body issues that you dont see unless you are really looking. i think i will have plenty of clearance. and how the HELL did you get one for 4.5K?? thats just unheard of.. (its not a hako is it?? i cant see your pictures at work)

35K invested "!@#$!#@$ DAMN! Can you eat off the floor boards?

I had to buy my Hako from a Japanese junkyard as none of the locals at that time were comfortable selling the car to a Gajin. It was rusted real bad. Far worse than simple words can desribe. I have too many pictures from the body restore (pre-digital camera era).

The good news is i can eat off of any surface of the car to include the diff and tranmission. This year is the first year I will be available (deployments to less than desireable countries) to go to JCCS with my car (previous attempt was thwarted with an intake port coolant leak). I am totally lookin forward to it.

i am sure people have paid more then 25000 for one that has some rust,so i dont think 35000 in to restoring is that much...

all that nastiness is from previous owners just spraying the undercarriage before inspections, 40 years of spray, and its all just flaking off. its a PAIN, i want to blast the whole car and get rid of it all, but i don't have the time of the place to do it right now.

got the RCA's in and of course they weren't a 15 minute install like all the sites say, it took quite a bit of "trimming" to get then in, but it seems to have solved my problems. the weather is bad this weekend, so i really can't do a lot of thrashing on it, but i drove it down the road and back, and it seems to drive much better. i also have clearance for my stock bump stops, so that makes me a lot happier.

my brakes are getting pretty bad, i need to replace the rotors, and pads, but i will probably just go ahead and upgrade to Z32/S14/S15 calipers. yay... MORE money into this beast LOL