My 1970 KGC10 2000 GT

Duke · **Posted:** Tue May 29, 2012 10:37 pm

Here is a link to a thread on adjusting the steering box for a 510. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.ph ... ent#p99775

This is the meat of the thread:

Quote:

Roll the car forward a few feet, to make sure the wheels are pointing forward.
Then, take a wrench and loosen the jam nut on the top of the steering box, AT THE SAME TIME, put a slotted screw driver into the slot in the top of the screw, AND HOLD IT IN THAT POSITION! Now, carefully screw the screw down in the box, till you feel some resistance. ( you may have to back the nut off a hair more, to keep it from tightening up) Then, go grab the steering wheel and wiggle it back and forth, WHILE WATCHING THE WHEELS. You want to see the wheels move, with the steering wheel movement. IF not, tighten a bit more. When it seems ok, hold the screw in that EXACT position, and then you tighten the jam nut!
Now, this is whre you find out if your worm and sector gears are bagged beyond adjustment. You have to drive the car, to see if it wants to return to center, AFTER you try to turn a corner. IF it is sluggish, or just plain TOO TIGHT, you have to back OFF the adjustment, till it turns ok, but, if you loose the on-center tightness...YOUR BOX is dead. You will either have to live with that vague steering, try and find a better box, or, try to find a good HL510 box and put that on.

So try a few points , test drive.....GOOD LUCK!

While you can turn the wheels statically, I do recommend you actually drive the car to really see how it's working, and BE CAREFUL when you first turn, as you may be surprised at how tight the box can become, past the on-center feel.

I've recommended too, that the stock oil needs to be cleaned out, and a gear oil put in, with some Moly-G. If the box has survived, you want to keep it in good shape, and give it the better lubrication.

Be very careful, when you test drive...as the steering could be sooooo...tight, that you might have to reef on it to get it to come back. A PERFECT box, is one that has virtually NO on-center slop, turns well, and, depending on castor, should come back to center by itself, if you let go of the wheel.
Keith Law

wookieballa · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2012 7:12 pm

is there a certain way to properly drain it? i have looked at mine, but havent really given it a lot of thought, but i would like to change mine now that i read this, mine has a little slop, and im sure its never been flushed

kev · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2012 8:14 pm

There isn't a drain hole...I guess you remove it, tip it upside down, rinse it out with some kerosene, and refill?

I'm not sure if I agree with that method posted above tho, I'm reasonably sure I saw the factory instructions, and they said you have to back it off a smidge.

wookieballa · **Posted:** Wed May 30, 2012 10:24 pm

do you have the factory instructions to confirm this Kev?
and WTF! no drain hole?? who designed that!

ericbauer · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 5:43 am

As soon as I get my 510 fsm I'll confirm what it says in there

But does no one have a C10 fsm at all?

kev · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 6:35 am

Here's a diagram of the steering box

I can't remember where I read that instruction about tightening the steering box, but if you look at that diagram, I presume the gears are cut at an angle, so that when you tighten that adjustment screw, it pushes the gears closer together, but they still need to have a bit of a backlash, ie a little slack, or they will wear themselves out pretty fast IMHO.

And here's a diagram of the door and window mechanism

kev · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 6:40 am

BTW here's some Kenmeri workshop manuals:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Original-197 ... 4ab7e7d3b0

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-NISSA ... 2c656a9686

(There is a 3rd manual on Ebay in Australia, a more rustic looking one, but I'm bidding on that)

ericbauer · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 7:02 am

Hey Kevin

Thanks for posting

Are those out of a FSM or a Nissan parts book?

kev · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 7:21 am

They are exploded diagrams from a factory C10 parts manual, so not actually a workshop manual.

Jgonzo911 · **Posted:** Thu May 31, 2012 8:43 am

MORE Exploded views please

ericbauer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:06 pm

Hey so a couple of you were asking about the Rubber Soul compression rods... Well if you get them please immediately replace the M12x1.75 bolt & nut that goes through the rod end.

The bolt's barely long enough
It only has a nut, no washer, no lock washer

Guess what happens when you're driving 55miles home from work?
Yea, you guessed it... Nut fell off

Heard it & immediately pulled off fwy before something bad happened

Called wife who commutes home on the same fwy (usually later than me) and asked her to pick up an m12x1.75 nut and waited for her off the fwy

No harm done but it was a close call

ericbauer · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:56 pm

Update:

First off while the S30 Z comes with a brake booster check valve, I've seen several C10s without it... It might never have been offered from the factory ?? Not sure why that would be... Anyways, while Victory50 sells a shiny chrome one for too much, you can still get the stock Nissan one for the Z here in the US:

The Bridgestone Potenzas that came with the car had some issues... The rears were 10yrs old and tire shops refused to balance them because of their age, the fronts had cracks in them all along the grooves and it turned out the majority of my wobble at freeway speeds was from them:

So goodbye Potenzas...

...And hello new rubber!

At the risk of sounding cheesy, I gotta admit I love the smell and touch of brand new tires... Especially when they've been sitting in the car overnight waiting for a early morning tire store run... mmmmm

I picked Toyo 888 this time around and went with 205/50R15 fronts (same size as before), and 235/50R15 rears (the Potenzas were 225/50R15 and were way stretched on the 10j Wats). I gained 0.5" in tire diameter (from 23.7" to 24.2") and I really dig the period "plump" sidewall look... Fills out the wheel arches rather nicely.

Short of finding a set of front Wats with just a hair more neg offset (that wouldn't require flares), I'd like to think this is close to perfect!

kev · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:17 pm

No, you aren't the only one who likes that new tyre smell

jncr · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2012 5:19 pm

Got a "GT-Kai" badge for the rear of the car...

Cool now you need a front emblem.

amorphiss · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:39 pm

Wow, cool. I want a larger diameter rear tire. I have 245/40-15 Avon CR500's. The grip is awesome and I like how wide they are, but they are too small in diameter. Let me know how you like those R888's, I think those will prob be my next tire.

Does anyone have pictures of what the 2000GT-X front and rear badges look like? Nice GT-KAI badge.

ericbauer · **Posted:** Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:50 pm

Peter

Bottom of Page1 of this thread

Kevin posted pics out of the Skyline reference book
Red GT-X with front & rear badges

Repro honeycomb rear filler panels are available on YAJ - I just saw some for sale...

HS30-H · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:46 am

ericbauer wrote:

First off while the S30 Z comes with a brake booster check valve, I've seen several C10s without it... It might never have been offered from the factory ?? Not sure why that would be... Anyways, while Victory50 sells a shiny chrome one for too much, you can still get the stock Nissan one for the Z here in the US:

Eric,

Do be careful that you don't end up with two check valves in line, as the KGC10/KPGC10 booster check valves are actually inside the take-off at the manifold.

The take-off connector can tend to look like it's just a metal tube screwed into the manifold, but it's supposed to have the check valve - cunningly disguised - inside it......

ericbauer · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:36 am

Interesting..

ok i'll check

jncr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2012 12:36 pm

Along with what Alan stated about the check valve the V50 large shiny check valve is also a resevoir to hold more vacumm in cases where your large cam does not produce enough vacumm to assit the brakes.

hint...GM had an electric vacumm pump on some of the caddys that also helps with this.

Upgrading the master bag is always a good idea.

Nice looking car..you got a keeper.

ericbauer · **Posted:** Wed Jun 06, 2012 10:32 pm

So when I met up with Eric ("ImPo") at Cars & Coffee Irvine last month we were comparing / contrasting his 4dr and my 2dr. I saw that he still had the trim piece in the trunk that separates the gas tank from the rest of the luggage space. I asked him if he could trace out the pattern on a large sheet of paper and send it to me so I could make one for myself (my car didn't come with one).

Well I got a large surprise box at work today, and instead of sending me a large roll of paper, he sent me the actual trim piece he had just made up for me...

It's really nicely finished and I'm super stoked on it.
If your car didn't come with one, or yours is damaged you should consider hitting him up and see if you can buy one from him...

@ImPo: Thanks again mister!

-e

My 1970 KGC10 2000 GT

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