1970 Subaru FF-1 Project car

john · **Posted:** Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:25 pm

Datsunrides wrote:

Do you know if your FF1 latches would be the same, or similar as my coupe latches? If so, I have a 1200 here I can physically check along with an early Accord and Corolla.

Take some pics and post 'em up! :tu:

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:04 pm

Datsunrides wrote:

Do you know if your FF1 latches would be the same, or similar as my coupe latches? If so, I have a 1200 here I can physically check along with an early Accord and Corolla.

I have no idea. I do suspect anything from the 70's might work, especially something Japanese with metric measurements.

There are only two real critical measurements. The first appears to be the location of the bolt hole closes to the window and the point where the latch connects to the window. It needs to be NO LESS than 5cm (~2 inches), more, like even up to 3 inches or more, will be OK since I can make new holes.

The second is the width of the pin that connects to the window frame, which needs to be no less than about 11mm (1.1cm).

Lastly, the flat part where the bolt holes attach to the frame of the car should be about level with the point where it connects to frame. Can't be way up or way down, but somewhere close will work.

Don't know if any of that made any sense, I can take some pictures and show the measurements if need be.

And ya, I'm gonna go to Pick'n'pull tomorrow and look around. Not many foreign cars from the 70's are in the lots around here though...

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:03 pm

Got VERY lucky today at the pick'n'pull. More 70's imports than I've ever seen at the closest yard (which is also the smallest).

There was a Datsun B210 coupe, a Corona (sedan), a Mazda 626, a Corolla and even a Fiat Sport.

I took the latches from the Corolla, they seemed to be the best of anything else I found. They attach farther away from the window than my FF-1 latches which is good since I won't have to use the original screw holes at all (which FYI, are just drilled into the frame for screws, no actual threads for bolts or anything). They also attach flat and all the dimensions look like they will work.

There was a early 3-series too that I checked out, but the latches were kind of funky. The B210 latches were completely wrong.

I also snagged the window squeegees from the Corolla since they were in perfect shape and mine are obliterated. Will take a little work to get them to work, but I'm sure they will.

john · **Posted:** Wed Feb 22, 2012 7:19 pm

Well done. :tu:

kay_dubbs · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:01 pm

Just spent the last hour or so reading/looking at this build thread.

Amazing stuff!
Have never seen an engine setup quite like that one. Very unusual design.
Keep the pics comin!

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:23 pm

Just got the window channel felt finally, and cut it to the correct dimensions for the frame and even test fit it. It doesn't fit 100%, but I tested it with the window in place and it slides nicely.

However, I do need to get some sort of adhesive to stick it on properly so it doesn't shift. What should I use for this?

john · **Posted:** Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:28 pm

Kostamojen wrote:

I do need to get some sort of adhesive to stick it on properly so it doesn't shift. What should I use for this?

"3M Weatherstrip Adhesive", black only! The yellow makes a mess. The black blends in better anyway, in case you get it somewhere you don't want it. :wink:

Or "3M Plastic & Emblem Adhesive" if you want it clear. Also works a treat. :tu:

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:55 pm

Used the 3M adhesive, works good I think (still needs to dry).

So I installed the frame into the door and have one small issue... Apparently the door seal is too thick cause the door won't close all the way with the frame installed

I guess I need a thinner bulb or something?

john · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:18 pm

It's possible it just needs a break-in period? Every time I've put new door seals on, the doors are a huge pain to close for the first 4-6 weeks (longer for non-driven cars).

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:27 pm

Well the bottom half of the door I've had closed for awhile, but its still difficult. I'll give it time and see if it gets better.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Thu Apr 05, 2012 4:29 pm

Got both frames installed now. Both doors don't close, although the passenger one closes farther than the driver side. I need to adjust the driver side door cause the frame is hitting the body a little.

Pics:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... frame6.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... frame4.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... frame3.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... frame2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... edone1.jpg

john · **Posted:** Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:52 pm

This car makes me so jealous. :mrgreen:

Garant · **Posted:** Fri Apr 06, 2012 11:01 pm

surprised to see this pic:

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:34 pm

Got the rear side windows installed. The latches from the old Corolla seem to work perfectly:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... ndows4.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... ndows2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... ndows3.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... indow1.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... latch1.jpg

Took a bit of finesse to get those installed, and I had to modify the top little bracket because the changes to the paint/body made it impossible to use how it was before (had a little nub thing, removed that and made a hole for a bolt instead). My uncle helped out this time, and he came up with the idea of removing part of the bulb seal temporarily to get these in, I would have never thought of that, LOL!

john · **Posted:** Thu Apr 19, 2012 5:54 pm

Well done! :tu:

Drive510 · **Posted:** Sat May 05, 2012 12:18 pm

Just went through 24 pages of awesomeness here at work(don't tell my boss :lol:

). It's really cool to see your project take off. I'll need to take pointers from you for my resto. Update on the coolant problem? Were all the kinks worked out?? Also, what is your plan for the interior(seats-headliner-door panels etc.)??

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat May 05, 2012 10:27 pm

Saving money for the engine work, and I'll have to remove everything up front of course to get the engine out... So I'm not keen on doing that until I feel like doing it.

As for the interior, I don't have anything set in stone yet, but that will be after the engine is sorted out. There was a set of old-school looking Corbeau seats I might get though.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 2:08 pm

Had some craziness happen again today

I've been smelling fuel in the garage the last week or so, and I found that the fuel line that went to the carb was leaking a bit. So I pulled the car out of the garage for today.

I went to fiddle with the fuel line and as soon as I did it started spewing fuel EVERYWHERE! I clamped it as quickly as I could, but not before a lot of fuel got in the engine bay.

I figured there was something going on with fuel pressure, so I went to unplug the fuel cap... Couldn't get it off. Had to tap it a few times and finally get a good enough grip on it, and as soon as I did the thing EXPLODED like a shaken soda can!!!

I have no idea whats going on with that, but I'm leaving the fuel cap off for now. I figure something is wrong with the fuel tank being pressurized like that, might have to do with running the fuel pump last year and leaving it sitting for so long with all the changes in temperature over that time.

Any ideas about whats going on? Maybe I need some sort of pressure-release fuel cap?

Anyway, some photos while I had the car outside...

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... /pose2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... owsin2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... owsin1.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... owsin3.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/ ... owsin4.jpg

Datsunrides · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 5:32 pm

Probably due to pressure buildup in the tank. The original cap was probably vented and may have been replaced with a non-vented cap. Easiest solution, drill a small 1/16" hole in the gas cap (or try and find a non vented cap).

Mark

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 8:25 pm

Finding a vented cap is pretty impossible I think. I couldn't find any "new" gas caps at all for this car. I checked the service manuals/parts manuals, and no the cap doesn't have a vent.

Drilling that hole might actually be the best route, but I'll look and see if I can get a new cap first.

1970 Subaru FF-1 Project car

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