I'm finally working on brake upgrades for our 1967 MS-45 Crown.

Better disc brakes up front and drum to disc swap in the rear.

Up front I'm using the early Ford Falcon disc brake kit from Wilwood (Part Number 140-11071) and in the rear, I'm using the 87-88 Ford T-Bird disc brakes. Summit Racing makes a complete kit (Part Number SUM-BK1328)

I am eliminating the hyrda-vac booster and running a Wilwood dual master cylinder (Part Number 260-8794) which has the same bolt pattern on the firewall. I expect a firm pedal but it should stop on a dime.

I have spent the last year or so researching and gathering parts. I finally have everything together and will start installing. I'll try to take as many pictures as possible and keep track of any more part numbers needed. I will be waterjet cutting my own caliper brackets front and rear and any other misc. stuff needed. I will make the parts or drawings (DXF) available to anyone who needs them.

cool ,this could probably work on mx1* corona mark II's

post updates as they come!

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NOT STOCK!

Also interested in this.

Good luck !

Very interested to see this, Would love to know all of my possibilities on my rear end swap.

Any updates on this?

Sorry for the delay guys. Here is the front spindle bare. I only show this for reference because my grease seal was rusted to the spindle (see rust stains) and it looked like it was part of the spindle. It took some heat and whacks with a chisel to remove.




Here is the rear axle tube. Again, all the old parts are removed. The only part I reused is the bearing retainers (2nd pic.) The bearing retainer is removed from the brake backing plate and axle by pressing the bearing off of the axle. With the axle removed from the brake backing plate, you can press this retainer out of the backing plate. The studs that hold it in place have splines so it takes some force to remove.





This is the rear mock up. The caliper is 87-88 T-Bird and the bracket is waterjet cut from 3/8" stainless steel. Caliper alignment is perfect without the need of spacers or shims.

Here you see the parking brake mechanism that is under the right side of the car. I removed the cables on the rear axle and the cable that attached to this mechanism. I will be using Lokar universal parking brake cables that are designed to be used with the T-Bird calipers.




Here is the Right Rear assembled. If you look closely, you can see a spacer ring in the center of the rotor. The T-Bird kit is designed to be used with a Ford 9" rear end. The 9" is available in two axle sizes. The kit comes with rotors sized for the large axles and a spacer in case you have the small axles. Unfortunately, the Crown axles fall right in between the two sizes. A local machine shop turned the axles down to fit the spacers in just a few minutes for $25 each.




This is the inside view of the left rear. Note the brake hose retainer tab welded to the axle housing. These little tabs don't do much so take it easy on the welding. You only need a small weld. Remember the axle housing has gear oil in it and the gas tank is right above your head when welding these on!




Since the original wheels where 14", I needed new wheels to fit the brakes. I've used Wheel Vintiques for other projects and have always been pleased. The rears are 16"x7" and the fronts are 16"x6". Not sure on tire size yet.

This is absolutely fantastic. When you are done, could you make a detailed parts list? I am considering making my MX13 a daily, and would love to upgrade the brakes. What will you be doing to address the fact that the master cylinder and proportioning valve are meant for rear drums? (From what I've read, dual master cylinders that run rear drums are designed to maintain a bit of residual line pressure to the rear slaves)

I'm changing the master to a Wilwood unit (260-8794) - same bolt pattern on the firewall. Also running the adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve.

Lets take a look at the front setup:

This is the front caliper bracket that is supplied with the Wilwood kit. One of the main reasons I chose this kit was due to this bracket being a two piece design. The screws have Loctite so you need to apply some heat to remove the caliper mount.


This is the part we need. If you look close you can see the scribe mark for the area that needs to be removed to clear the spindle.


This is the new waterjet cut bracket. The original Willwood part is aluminum with machined pockets for the caliper mounting screw heads. I cut it from 1018 steel because I switched to countersunk screws.




Mounted to the spindle. Note the shims between the bracket and the caliper mount.

Here is the bare Wilwood Hub - a beautiful piece of machining!


This is one of the major hurdles with this conversion. The seal supplied with the kit is for a Ford which has a large ID. If you try a Toyota seal with the correct ID, the OD is not large enough. I ended up sourcing a seal that fit the spindle and had the smallest possible OD. This way I was able to waterjet cut an adapter ring. I first pressed the seal into the adapter ring. Once the greased bearing was in place, I pressed the adapter ring and seal into place using Permatex sealant on the seal and the adapter ring.



Complete assembly ready to install

Can't wait to see more progress on this. This setup is looking good.

Very nice upgrade !! I have been having a hard time to find new brake parts so this is very tempting !!

I've been busy making all the hard brake lines. I am replacing every line on the car. It has been a very tedious part of this conversion. I do have to mention that the flaring tool I am using is awesome. It is available form Eastwood under part number 25304. It works just as advertised and makes all the other style flaring tools a thing of the past. It takes under a minute to make the inverted flare start to finish!

Sorry for no updates on this. I have been making hard lines for weeks. All the planning in the world is pointless. I am trying to make the lines in one piece and follow the original routes. What a pain! It is so much easier when the car is disassembled. There is so much stuff in the way!!

Hey... nice work! Initially reading that I thought it was a bolt on deal... but seeing it, I know better now. What part of SD are you in? I live near Temecula. I've been doing a bit of custom work on my Corona, but most everything I've done is bolt on with very little modification.

I'm in Santee. My neighbor is Manzanita Brewery. They have several car shows over the summer. I'll let you know when - maybe you can bring your car down. My buddy brings his Blue Bird. We can have a mini Japanese section in a sea of American stuff!

Kewl.. I lived in Santee, off of Red Rock near where the 52/125 merge. Definitely let me know... I head down that way a few times a year.

So I finally finished up the hardline plumbing last night, bled the system, and took it for a spin around the building. The pedal is firm but I really have to stomp on it to get even a modestly quick stop. I thought this might be a problem for disc brakes, no booster, and a 1" master cylinder. I am thinking of trying a 7/8" master cylinder. From what I understand, it will produce more braking pressure with less pedal effort. It might increase pedal travel though. Does anybody have any thoughts or experience on this?