Hello Buddies

After about 25-30 min of driving, the engine doesn’t want to idle anymore and it bucks and kicks. After it shuts off I have to crank and crank to get it to come back on.

Im thinking personally: TPS adjustment, Coolant Temp Switch, MAF, External MSD pump, 02, FPR or CAS. Either one of them are going in and out. I have done some plug and play with them the most recent setup has the engine revving freely all the way up to the redline but under load, if I go more than 60% throttle it doesn’t like it.

The Fuel pump I put in place because the two OE replacement pumps were different and a buddy had this MSD pump laying around. When I ran the number it said this pump was good for roughly 500hp. I knew the flow rate was high so I installed a Nismo regulator but had no gauge. Plugs were pretty much soaked and after adjustment, they are dry now but will be replacing the Nismo FPR with a Sard FPR that has a gauge on it for proper adjustment. The fuel pump noise is also not a steady whine, im thinking it may be bad.

Before the FJ the oldest engine I have worked on was from the year 1988... I’m sure that I’m probably over looking something or missing something.

I’m also in search for a good vacuum diagram most of what I have found are not good pictures or clear.

I know I may be answering a lot of my questions. I have been around the block for 11 years lol but that doesn’t mean I know ALL engines etc like the back of my hand.

Thanks

Donnie

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http://DonaldJackson.TeamMNR.com

Throw a fuel pressure gauge on it and watch it.

Sounds like you are loosing fuel pressure after things heat up, either due to teh pump heading south, or the filter plugging up....

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Bow

Old School Rules
'91 S13 Fastback Saki Sipper

ah the joys of FJ20s. Does the engine cut out suddenly, or progressively hesitate and stumble and eventually die?

If you suspect it's fuel system related, chances are it could be dry solder joins in the fuel pump control module, located in the boot. That's of course if it's still there and the pump is still wired to run through it.

Otherwise, could be ignition related. the optical CAS would be the first thing I'd look at on that side of things.

TPS and O2 can be safely unplugged and the car should still run without them, but the other sensors you should probably check if neither the FPC or CAS is the culprit.

Good luck!

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Roger that guys great info and acknowledged!!!

The fue fliter is brand new however..... when I pulled the old pumps off the pump filters were jammed packed with rust. When I removed the lines from from the "new" pump no rust or residue was there. I will check forward Filter today.

Mr. Orion, It tries to die suddenly right after about 28ish minutes of driving and the only way I can make it that far is if I give it light throttle inputs. I tried 100% throttle once and the FJ didn’t like it at all.. If I shut the car down for about 10 minutes and fire it back up, I can drive for another 20-25 minutes and then it happens again.

When I got the car there were aftermarket relays runs to one pump alongside the stock wiring. they seem to not kick on at the same time. The signal I used to power my Pump was from the aftermarket power source the installer seem to bypass any stock wiring. The wiring for the fuel system was the only thing I didn’t rewire myself but I will. Also there was a Capacitor looking device on the battery that ran from post to post.... I took it off I should have asked what that was about. Also my injectors are newly rebuilt had a new OE FPR but took that out after the plugs got soaked. Since putting in the Nismo FPR the plug have been dry as they should. Only downside to the nismo is no guage and all the local guages are in MPa...

( got the pump used from a buddy annnnnd fail )

Stock and "new" single setup




MSD 2225


The pump was whining normally and then became then very low at those point the car dies so I suspected pump pressure issues. After turning the Nismo pressure regulator counter clockwise the pump regained its high pitch however there was no pressure on the lines.

I picked up a metered gauge today and will put in one of my new OE Bosch replacements today. After local Japanese inspection, I will be fully upgrading the ignition system with SR20 bits. As I drove the car I could just feel the potential of the engine being robbed by the current technology. Also doesn’t help that my R33 is near 500hp haha.

I LOVE the attention this car got yesterday and so much respect was given from older Japanese guys.

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http://DonaldJackson.TeamMNR.com

well sorted out the fuel issue.. now I have zero spark.

I have check all teh common spots swapped both the dizzy and coil for working ones check the relay.


any other reason why an FJ would not spark?

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http://DonaldJackson.TeamMNR.com

old Nissan file injection systems rely heavily on the coolent temperature sensor and cylinder head temperature sensor to do a full close loop.. check those 2 and their wiring ...