Had a little time on my hands so........Added a supra intercooler using various saab and volvo intercooler piping and stock volvo/saab hoses (cut to proper lengths for a stock look) that allowed me to route through the headlight openings in the core support without cutting anything or moving the stock air filter box and intake tubing.
A little black paint on the one non-black tube in the system should look damn near like the intercooler came from the factory.........maybe a little dirt on the one silicone coupler I used would blend it into looking more stock.
And a much larger picture which shows entire installation from high above.http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6191/6113550701_41cdcd801f_b.jpg
Boost is now referenced from the intake manifold because the intercooler system has a pressure drop across it that takes away 1.5 pounds of boost at redline and 10psi.
Stock nissan L28et "blow off" (vacuum control valve) is augmented by much larger recirculation valve that routes the backed up boost that stacks up in front of the throttle plate to the turbo inlet.
This is necessary because of the larger volume of pressurized air in the intercooler system versus the stock "j-pipe".
Now that the entire factory infiniti M30 induction system is installed, I can no longer hear the recirculation valve operating.........all you hear from this car is a little bit of fan noise and turbo whine.........well....and tires burning.
Wastegate spring was threaded for length adjustment but is set to 6psi and the car's been run to 10psi using the boost control valve (my limit for flat top engine with 93 octane) without any pinging and the boost shoots right up to 10psi and stays steady all the way to redline.
A "grainger valve" was used for boost control.
With this "grainger valve", the wastegate actuator diaphragm does not see any boost at all until boost climbs to the value you have set by adjusting the valve.
It's also good to run this if you have moved the wastegate actuator's boost reference from the turbo housing to the intake manifold because this valve is also a one way valve which means your wastegate actuator doesn't see the intake manifold's 25 to 30 inches of vacuum when you drop throttle at high rpms. (good for a 20 year old actuator diaphragm that has never seen any vacuum).
Grainger part number 5Z763 for $9.73.http://www.grainger....5&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2
I swapped the orientation of the ball and spring around so the ball seats on the body end rather than the knob end as delivered by grainger and drilled a 1/8 inch hole almost all the way through the body of the valve (not all the way through) with the .025 inch hole drilled inside the larger hole for the final 1/16 of an inch.
The small hole is necessary because the valve from grainger is one way and would keep pressure on the wastegate forever....or until the leaks do thier job.
The .025 hole size seems to work well enough that boost behavior is sweet.
Most I have seen on the internet are drilled on an adapter.........but I did not want an adapter.
You can just see the hole near the orange loctite in the pic.
Sure you can try to drill that tiny and fragile bit all the way through but I was doing this in a vise with a standard and relatively large hand drill so the 1/8 inch hole minimized the amount of .025 drilling required.
The hole is in the body in a place that would not interfere with operation of the valve.
I wanted a more streamlined installation with minimal size and parts so I got a double ended hose barp, cut it in half, drilled the hole in the knurled portion of the grainger valve larger, and pounded the barb through from the inside to keep it captive unlike most I've seen on the internet where it is pounded in from the outside.
I did have to grind the barb lip formed by cutting the double ended barb in half so it would go into the knurled adjuster of the valve as well as shorten the spring a bit (might not have been necessary to shorten the spring but the bit of hose barb does shorten the compartment by 1/8 inch where the spring seats).
I also sourced the proper hose barb for the other end and did not need an adapter.
This leaves you with a grainger valve that won't spit out the barb that some recommend you pound in from the outside.
$80 total expenditure on intercooler, boost control, and boost recirculation system........all sourced in two 1 hour junkyard trips, one trip to lowes, and one trip to grainger........and some vacuum hose.
I need to do a couple of things like making the EGR work, the IAC, and deleting the aux air regulator as well as routing the water lines from the regulator/throttle body to the water cooled center section of the new turbo slated for installation.
Waiting on custom a/c lines and finishing a support for the rear mount of the power steering pump......well....that and a proper upper radiator hose.
Nistune will be purchased with DLP designs 8 channel usb data acquisition system as well as a dished piston L28et for higher boost levels.
Note the walmart "neverstart" marine battery which has two extra terminals and, for some reason, cost considerably less than the automotive use battery of the same specs..........at least when I bought it 2 years ago.http://www.walmart.c...attery/16782694
Currently, the extra ground cable makes battery to body and battery to engine connections redundant and the extra positive terminal can be used for something that draws big current such as amps for a subwoofer or maybe a huge laser to blind chumps who cut me off.
I mentioned a subwoofer but I found that putting 6x9s in the rear deck of a car with a decent sized trunk offers up some pretty tight bass and enough volume to leave my ears ringing after a loud song.
I had originally tried infiniti kappa 6 1/2 components but it was not nearly loud enough behind a $75 buck pioneer head unit without supplemental amps so in went some 8 year old (6 years in a box) pioneer 4 way 6X9s that were purchased because they had the LOWEST wattage rating I could find for that speaker size.
Sometimes you get lucky with stereo installations and sometimes you spend tons of time and money for something that never does sound good.
Since the car originally had bose speakers, I had to fashion 1 inch thick shims carefully cut into bizarre shapes as to minimize any obstruction of the 6x9 speaker through the very odd shaped speaker holes.
While the front 6 1/2s in the doors are pathetic in comparison, the 6x9s are shockingly loud and friends make me open up my trunk to prove I have no subwoofer or supplemental amps.
Fronts also used 1 inch thick shims because the door holes are somewhere between 5 inch aftermarket speakers and 6 1/2 speakers........pretty easy....bolt speakers to shims and bolt entire assembly to the door though I may be tempted to play around with the factory bose enclosures with an aftermarket speaker installed later on.
All speakers are under the stock covers so any sideways baseball cap wearin' thieving ass'd nimrod will see nothing worth breaking into the car for.
I'll try to add pics of the speaker install for the M30 guys because I have shared in their pain.
At least 25,000 daily driven miles so far and here's how it looked during my trip to kennedy space center to do some aero testing on the twin turbo ford GT.
And a much larger version of the pic above......http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6190/6113553535_cdb90d678f_b.jpg
It is parked under a tree I used 22 years earlier to pull an engine in my 1969 ss chevelle (455 olds) that broke an oil pump as I was moving and had only money for gas........but plenty of tools and the parts necessary to pull off the job.
This is located in a state picnic area on Indrio road just east of I95 in florida and the engine was pulled during a monster lightning storm.
Sadly, moving the seat forward to get my tools out poked a hole in my can of "off" initiating a panic stricken and can tearing application of the insect repellent but the downpour of rain washed it off I was eaten alive by mosquitos anyway.