ok this will seem out of place for non regular readers of your wicked build blog,
thanks for the reply guys...to a now missing post.

ahhh who would have thought this brakes thing could give me so much to dwell on. everyone makes a good point. Looking at changing stud pattern doesnt seem rite, as why go to all the effort of close to factory restoration in all other areas for authenticity then only to change it on a fundamental thing like stud pattern just for rims choice, especially when running original rims is so cool, however that said, i completely understand why changing it really does make sense in the grand scheme of things, as we, or most of us, like some mag wheels of some description for that special occasion. It then takes the focus to acheiving quality braking under a 13" rim at close to original track width.

I like the s1/2 rx7 front brake swap idea, as its using mazda donor parts, for that factory feel, now for diff conversion and the rear discs... my plan to have discs all round under stock 13" rims may just come together. Thank you for sharing such valuable information for other enthusiats, keep up the good work!

Thanks... here's the latest, the electroplaters gave me a call to let us know that the parts are ready for pickup. I'm currently sorting through other parts to drop off for plating including the horns and other brackets. Any fastener that that I can't buy off the shelf will be plated otherwise it'll be replaced with a new item. I can't be stuffed sorting through rusty nuts, bolts and spring washers when I can buy identical parts from the paint shop for around $30 in a box ready to go. An example would be the strut top nuts, you cant get more generic than that. These are the sort of bits that I'll just replace with equivalent new ones. On the other hand bolts that hold the steering components in place will be re-plated due to being unique ie tensile, thread length, over all length etc. Hope you get the idea.

Last time I was at the paint shop I noticed they had an assortment box of the black interior screws so I'll be grabbing some of those as well, from memory they looked the same as the factory ones. When I had the smashed 808 that was used to repair this car I taped a lot of the nuts and bolts to the parts they attached too so assembly was easier. These fasteners will be re used.

I'm also sorting through 2 buckets of wiring so they can go back into the car. I'm chasing some Wurth brand non adhesive tape to redo some sections of the harness (electrical tape goes all sticky). The harnesses doesn't look too bad, I need to repair the radio wiring and modify the engine harness to attach to the custom ignition system I have in mind. All should look factory with connectors and all when I'm finished.

Interior was trimmed some ago including all the consoles so there won't be any delay there.... just lots of small bits and pieces really need doing. All the expensive items and services have already been spent. I'm guessing there is another 2 - 3K and then I'm done. Looking through my expenses the car will cost around the 12 - 14K mark registered and insured. I was hoping to keep it under 10 but that I cant see that happening.




s1/2 has a 110 PCD in case you didn't know. I don't see a great advantage changing to 114.3 to be honest. How many wheels do you expect to buy and swap on to the car ! I'll be going through the process of having my alloys changed from 114 to 110 some time soon to keep everything uniform. The cost isn't that great. 114 -> 110 and 108 -> 110 is possible without much trouble. I'll put photos up after I go through the process. (wheel repair shop is doing the modification not me !)

With the rear disk conversion, last one I did I used s2 Rx7 calipers, new disks and backing plates. The only thing that I had to do to make them fit was fit a 2mm aluminum spacer between the axle and the disk rotor hub to center the rotor inside the caliper. Everything else pretty much fit right up.

Once you do that you'll need to have some custom handbrake cables made although I think Ford Laser ones used to fit. However there is much more to it to make it all work right. You'll need a matched front disk setup and a bigger master cylinder as well (preferably with the Rx7 vacuum Bendix Unit). Then there's custom hydraulic lines, brackets, redrilling the firewall for new vaccuum unit etc etc. Your wheel track will change front and rear which may affect your wheel dimension choice. Hope you guys can now see why Im not bothered with this sort of stuff. One thing always leads to another to another and so on that isn't in the original plan... yeah I'm just fitting rear disks !

There is very little to gain for this cars main purpose which is cruising the highways with friends other classics. Im all for simple improvements though I did the above about 10 years ago so my memory may be a little fuzzy. The brake mod's are pretty easy though, just do the mod before you buy the wheels to be on the safe side.

.....more photos soon

gypsy - just quickly - yes you can buy the individual rubber boots for the tie rod ends. Aaron Hogan bought his through Repco (Hi Benn!) and IIRC they were a generic Ford item. (though he was buying some for RX-4s)

Car's coming along nicely, I'm interested in the ignition upgrade too.

(I used an assortment of Champion interior bits for my wagon btw, some stuff wasn't close but it did mean that I can take out the interior without breaking anything next time).

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No problem with the ignition system, made a couple of phone calls today. Waiting on some responses for some info. Also looking at electrical signalling from the Rx7 hall effect sensors to see if I can find a smaller equivalent or another custom alternative even if I have to design an interface unit myself. No decision made how I'll be doing it other than I must have 2 functional distributors. I quite like the fact the car is retaining the twin distributors. Should have it worked out well before start up.

Forgot all about Repco, will drop in at some point and pick up a new boot !

Also have an original nut and bolt set on its way to attach the gearbox, engine and starter motor. I've found a correct Mazda original Rx4 large hole bottom mount starter motor, just need to pull it apart, clean it up, fit new bearings, bushes and maybe a solenoid for reliability and have bits of it replated to look new again. I think its a far better choice using a quality original unit than some of the sealed new repros units around. Clutch fork has been found so I should be busy fitting the motor and box sometime soon

Some stuff coming back and more going out..... not done yet !

Pics of stuff that has come back from the platers. All I do is drop off a heap of dirty, greasy, rusty parts, dont do one thing to them and they come back looking like this

Mostly window and door mechanisms, heat shields, boot lock, heater pipe.




Even the plastic bits came back like new. Last pic for now, more stuff that has been sent off... it'll be interesting to see if the horns can be brought back from the dead.


I've got more stuff to send off after the block goes in, hoping that'll be the final zinc / gold chromate plating run. There are relay boxes, start motor bits, engine and gearbox bolts etc. I also have a large bottom mount genuine Mazda Rx4 starter motor on its way, engine/ bell housing nut bolt set, proper strut bottom bolt set, clutch fork and spring and a few other things. I'm still going through the wiring harnesses, sorting out the dizzy project, and cleaning up the cabin....should keep me busy for quite a while

Just to ensure you get tired of reading about my car here is another update... maybe the last one for a few years

Things are starting to come together after so many years...
Clutch fork components, new bearing pressed in.


Checking and lubing the pilot bearing. As mentioned in another thread approx 3.5mm needs to be lopped off the end of the input shaft as it hits the back of the eccentric shaft.


Fork and bearing slipped into place.


Clutch disk centred and pressure plate torqued up as per Mazda specs.... no guessing with this stuff. Pic 2, input shaft marked with tape to have end shaved off (approx 4mm)


Input shaft end has been cut then edges bevelled. Pic 2, the finished product.


Pic 1, after the input shaft mod the box slipped straight into place with no massaging necessary. Pic 2, this is by far the best way to install an engine and box without scratching the new paint work.... from under the car if you havent guessed. The Rx3 weighs nothing and one person can easily lift the front over the drive line. Im too old to be lying on my back in awkward positions.


Easily a one man job. Bolt the crossmember and mounts to the engine and away you go. Engine mounts are left loose to allow for the huge angle with the rear of the gearbox still touching the floor. Jack the front up, bolt into place then jack the rear into place.


Suspension crossmember going in next and front end going end temporarily. All the correct nuts/ bolts are currently at the platers so it will need to come apart again #-o The important thing here is I can finalise the gearbox mounts.


Front end is basically together for now.


Look at the 10a BP goodness, its much cooler than Mad Max's Highway Intercepter All the studs, nuts and bolts will be getting a makeover. New engine mounts, strut tops, gearbox mounts will be used... all Mazda OEM stuff. The car must look like it did in 1973, arguably much better ! Tricky gave us a call to pick up the rear bar, its amazing I tell you if you ever saw the piece of crap that I dropped off


The shine and depth in the chromework is amazing. Rick (mazbitz) double handles the bars... beats them straight, sends them off for copper coating, they come back for filing and linishing and a general check over. Once given the OK they are send off for chrome plating. You get what you pay for, in this case a quality job


A few more of the bar, once the front panels are sorted the front bar will be getting done the same. One thing I liked was one person was responsible from start to finish of the job. I've seen some shocking rechrome work.


Thats it for now... i think 8-[

While getting some other work done I was shown some MFR parts, cdi igntion system, sump baffle plate, stat gears, and some factory Mazda Weber insulators that I was chasing as well as other stuff. I was too scared to ask how much they were.... were talking hundreds and hundreds of dollars here for 2 bits of rubber. Ric Shaw did warm me if I did find them that they cost a fortune. Unfortunately he hasn't had those bits for many years. The search continues to see if I can find some at a reasonable price ! I will most likely end up using some bakelite insulators by the looks of it.

Pic 1, a couple of boxes of generic nuts and bolts to help with assembly. Most of the used nuts and bolts are currently at the platers. Pic 2, gearbox mounts need sorting. 10a Rx3 mounts are commonly given the chop to fit larger gearboxes. Pic 2, Im measuring the thread pitch to clean them up.


Cleaning the mounts with a thread die... I saved these mounts from the early 808 I used to repair my car from a few years back.


Dumby fitting the mounts to the cross member and then to the underside. Unfortunately it appears that the 10a Rx3s have a unique floor. The tunnel is completely different to my car even though these have come from an equivalent model early 808. The job just got harder #-o Pic 2, I need to repair the floor where the old mounts were previously located.


Engine and box seated where I want them. As I find bits and pieces I stick them on the car so I don't need to look through piles of rubbish to find the stuff. Remember I bought this car as a kit car with lots of boxes, nothing labeled ! Pic 2, unfortunately I will need to custom fabricate some tunnel mounts. I've sort of worked out how too go about it. I had planned on plug welding the 808 bits to the floor but none of the stuff fits any where.... complete different tunnel floor shape.


As the car has no steering at the moment I have the front end sitting on wheel trolleys to make moving it around easy. As soon as the parts come back from the platers the suspension arms will be fitted with the correct parts. No point putting it all together only to pull it apart again/


From here I'll be making cardboard templates before custom making my gearbox mounts. I intentionally didn't stone guard the gearbox mount area of the tunnel as I knew this was coming. I wasn't content on doing the typical flat bar bolted to the floor as this only stresses and eventually cracks the sheet metal floor. It does seem to be quite common though.

Once the gearbox is sorted there is nothing stopping the shell and interior going together all of which is mostly complete. Hopefully the gearbox work will be finished in the next 2 - 3 weeks... can't wait to clear the place out !

Starting to finish off the bodywork, not long to go now. I had started on working on a few other things but its nothing but bodywork at the moment.

Didn't have much choice but to get back to bodywork as the nosecone had just come back from the blasters and can't leave bare steel sitting about. There was a heap of bog in the top of it all gone now to reveal a very good panel needing only minor repairs. I had it cleaned inside and out as there was surface rust in hard to reach places.


The joins will be brushed with primer to make sure they get covered. Pic 2 this is an area I fixed, lines that go missing over the years on some nose panels.


Blasting reveals a missing thread that was bogged up, I'll weld in a new section to fix it.


Plug welding one of the damaged brackets back into place after the area was repaired.


General repairs around the lower panel. Pic 2, the good nose was missing 2 studs so these are being removed from a spare.


.....threads cleaned up


Nosecone pretty much fixed.... Pic 2, I was playing around with guard gaps, had settled on small gaps around 4mm which looked really good good but presented a problem where the door would hit the guard when being opened Had to settle on 5 - 6mm in the end as was previously advised by others.


The new face of this Mazda... getting there


Not too far before painting the remaining parts takes place.

Amazing work as always. Good score on the water pump pulley! I went for the racing beat twin belt setup which has a lower diameter on the main pulley to reduce the water pump and alternator rpm, but i need to have a twin belt pulley made up for the water pump because as far as i know there is no such thing for a 10A.

Would be great to see some of the porting pics if you have any.

Thanks, Im no mechanical authority, however I think twin pulleys and gilmer drives are more for show than anything else. I can't see a need for either really. Best place to find out if there was a factory option would look through some of the Mazda Sport Corner brochures that people have posted for both the Rx2 and 3. Looking through the 78 - 85 Rx7 competition manual I dont recall seeing any mention of twin pulleys either. Also have a look at rex272's old Rx2 coupe, that car had all the factory fitted competition bells and whistles.

I have photos of the porting somewhere in this thread, both the rotor housings and side housings. The rotor housings have been chambered slightly in the bridge port area. The porting is nothing radical, but typical of what you would have seen in the 70's and 80's.

Not much to update really, the front end is almost ready for colour which is the end of the interesting work for me. Assembly should start sometime early next year if I don't find something else I've recently pulled out the radiator and oil cooler from storage and both look in excellent condition. These are parts that came with the car, also found a 12a radiator among the parts which will be used on the next car. Also bought some MFR Weber insulators from Simon (rex272) to help complete the mechanical package. I've also sourced a different gearbox style mount thanks to Rick from Mazbitz. The front bar has been dropped off for chroming. The starter is currently under going a rebuild as are a few other things. Believe it or not I'm not overly interested in driving it, don't get me wrong it will be nice to have a drive and get some use out of it with other car friends.... lets hope I dont take another 5 years to finish it from here !

The collection of parts continues for the next 12a coupe, should have delivery of new panels, watanabe wheels, and some other expensive junk from various places in the next month or so. I have a few other interests which have my attention at the moment so car stuff will slow down a little. It's good to get distracted with other interests, work is also keeping me very busy.

The doing of it is definately a big part of the enjoyment.
Regarding the twin pulleys, I agree the gilmers are more for show, although supposedly prevent slippage at high rpm. I opted for the twin belts as they provide redundancy if one of the belts snaps or comes off at high rpm. Twin belts are not uncommon on high performance engines for this reason. As we all know rotaries can get damaged very easily by overheating and it wouldnt take long for an high revving engine to fry itself without you realising if the water pump lost its drive or started slipping. If you are not intending to rag your engine then the single belt option makes sense.

I'll remember your words when my 10a BP pumping out 600Nm of torque snaps a belt while trying to hit the magic 200mph on the Bonneville salt flats in Utah

I got lucky thanks to Djfizz who picked up a set of Rx3 single stud gearbox mounts for us at a local wrecking yard. He's doing some amazing work himself for those who have seen his car. While at the wreckers I had a look around myself for other bits and pieces. Picked up some nuts and bolts and temporary put them on my car so I don't forget where they belong. Had to clean out the threads as well, these nuts, bolts will be cleaned up and either plated or painted depending on the factory finish.


Pic 1, a few more screws that I picked up. Pic 2, test fitting the radiator that came with the car, looks to have been recored by the previous owners. Here Im missing the rubber blocks to fit the radiator, currently looking for them. Thanks to Dom for pointing out why it didn't fit.


The radiator will be stripped, painted and tested. The oil cooler is in equally good confition.


Trying to get the axles out by the reversing the drums and using them as a slide hammer. They're not out yet but they are starting to move around the bearing. Once the diff is out it will be sent away to be reco'd and fitted with an LSD unit I bought years ago. Rex272 also came up with some goods and offered me the opportunity to purchase some MFR Weber insulators, couldnt say no and thanks again for another piece to my puzzle. I was facinated by your Rx2 coupe and all its special bits.


Some distributors bits that I found today that I thought may be suitable for my conversion, top right is the twin dizzy unit that will be converted. I cant see it being too hard, famous last words ! I have different types of reluctors and rotator assemblies. I plan on retaining the factory advance mechanism. Last pic the guards have been rubbed back any minor faults corrected.


Front guards in HiFill ready for final blocking then painting. They'll be left for a week or two to allow the primer to shrink before painting.


Boot lid hinges primed ready for paint as well. It should be fun trying to work out how the long springs get installed.


Two more panels to go, need to finish some minor filler work to the nosecone and rub back the bonnet for painting. Can't wait to get the bodywork work out of the way and clean the place out for the next stage. I think I'll start with the engine bay and mechanics

I like when you update, its like getting a new edition of a long running magazine... keep it up!

Haha, what will you do when it's all done ?

Been chipping away some more, insides of guards are now stone guarded, will most likely paint the insides next week. Blocking the bonnet for paint as well. Would have finished it if it didn't start sprinkling. Also doing minor filler work to the nose to finish it off for primer, cabin is also being cleaned up, will most likely spray some primer there as well to tidy it up. We'll decide on that one once I finish vacuuming and cleaning the car out....... Not long now before all body work is finished.

Still need to sort out the gearbox mounts and lots of other bits and pieces, trying to mix it up a little. I've got more small bits coming back from the blasters this week and might drop more stuff off at the platers for the gold chromate finish. The starter motor has my attention as well, I'll be rebuilding it soon. Diff will be sent away shortly for a rebuild as well, only thing holding it back is the damn axles are being a bitch to remove. It's all happening now :)

Might be stating the obvious, but tried bolting a wheel/drum cover on backwards and loosely to use as a slide hammer? its always worked for me, including when i twisted a spline once.

I might be asking abit much but any way you could get a close up of the surface [pre-rub] of your highfill? Mines getting smoother but its still abit "rough" compared to what my panelbeater puts out.

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[F3ARED] 76 Isuzu Gemini Coupe - forged G180z, EFI, 525hp Turbo, 6years and still building...

Daily 78 Isuzu Gemini Sedan, stock G161z, Rodeo EFI, 500hp roller, 157rwkw. Fun

If you look at the photo above you'll notice that is exactly what Im doing with the rear drum brake, and yes the nuts to the backing plate have been removed.

Here are some close ups for you of the front guards which have not been rubbed back, straight off the spray gun. They won't be touched for another couple of weeks, gives me a chance to work on other parts of the car. If you are looking for orange peel there is none, the Hi Fill went on pretty flat, meaning wet sanding with 600 and a guide coat should be a breeze.




Here are some tips...

Adjust your regulator and bump it up a little over the gun manufacturers recommendation, pull the gun trigger and the regulator should drop a little but remain stable.

Have a wide fan for adjusting

Fine adjustment can be done at the gun. Once the reg is set, if you have excessive orange peel, you can bump up the air pressure at the gun or wind in the fluid knob a little so less paint is atomised (mixed) with air, say a 1/4 of a turn each try. What you want is small paint atomised droplets, the more paint you are spraying the more air is required and the more product you'll be wasting (ends up in the air instead of the panel). You want to build up layers and let the primer or paint flash off between coats. Slapping it on in thick coats is going to cause you problems such as solvent pop (air bubbles) as the solvents try and escape from the paint or primer. You may get away with it with the primer but not when it comes to top coats !

2K HI Fill generally requires a 1.8 -> 2.5mm nozzle and needle setup. Check you primer tech sheet.
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If you are spraying on a very hot day the primer may be drying as it hits the panel causing dry spray or excessive peel. You may need a slow, med or fast reducer to suit the temp. Fast for cold weather and slow for hot weather to allow the primer to flow properly.

You can reduce the last primer top coat to flow better by adding more reducer, your tech sheet will cover the ratio. (I personally wouldnt bother, you're going to sand it anyway)

Always read the tech sheet and don't touch the fan once the gun is adjusted.

All in all its no big deal with primer because you're going to sand it anyway before you spray the top coats. You're just saving sanding and prep time by spraying it right to start with, if you are learning like most its no big deal at the primer stage. Paint stage is where it matters, shit prep and surface also means a bad result. Min compressor size would be a quality 15cfm as a minimum, 17cfm and a 100L is the way to go for a home setup.

Check the gun air consumption V's the compressors ability to supply the required air flow. Anything below 15cfm and a 60L tank and you're just kidding yourself as this is just adequate in my opinion (what I have).

Nothing like practice !

Small update... Ive started cleaning up bits and pieces for reassembly. I've spoken to Cobra recently who reckons I'm better off fitting the spare 12a radiator I have instead of the 10a one. He gave an original unit a go and said the motor was running noticeably hotter, something to think about when the time comes to fire up the new engine. Undecided at this point, as long as it looks factory like I'm not too fussed about originality. I'm the type of person who likes to play around with things.

The bonnet ready for final blocking, in actual fact its ready for painting as are the front guards. Pic 2, small parts are blasted ready for primer mainly so doors can go together.


Pic 1, parts were given a quick coat of primer to seal them. Aside from the battery tray none of them will be seen. Pic 2, door mirror stalks disassembled so they can be sent away for plating. Different people do different types of plating, these require someone who specialises in cast alloy. Give them to someone who doesnt know what they are doing and they'll dissolve to nothing in the caustic tank. One mirror had a damaged mirror holder which I'll replace. Both stalks have pitted chrome.


Pic 1, left door mirror holes were pre drilled prior to painting. I'll make a metal base plate with captive nuts just like the drivers side. This will reinforce the door and prevent paint cracking and damaging the surrounding metal. Everyone seems to love fender mirrors except for me, they remind me of the old HQ's towing caravans ! I'll probably use panel adhesive to attach the bracket to the inside of the door. Pic 2, more bits blasted ready for primer. Also found a Rx3 cross member thanks to Rohan.


Thats it, not sure where to next... wouldnt mind firing up the new 10a \:D/


Update 19-11-2011

Not much happening lately. I've started going through some of the boxes of parts and sending things away for a make over. I think things are getting out of hand as I never intended to refresh everything. I'm not big of show cars, just useable classics that don't get you too upset when you get the stone chips or general wear and tear. Well, that was the initial goal, if only I stuck too the original plan, a 13B and a set of wheels I would have been driving it years ago #-o

While dropping some special stuff off in long term warehouse storage some 900km's away, I was pondering whether the next car will actually be another Rx3 coupe. I'm pretty sure there will be another however its a tough decision between taking on a 13B Rx4 coupe or a 12a Rx3 coupe. If I had to rank my personal preference the Rx4 coupe follows a very close second to Rx3 coupes, then the Rx2 coupe, Rx3 sedan and then probably an R100. The Rx4 to me is the closest thing Mazda made to a muscle car, cockpit dash, large wheel arches, agressive front end, how could you go wrong ! If the Rx4 didnt exist I'd be looking at Australian Chargers at some point to relive my wogboy days ! The Rx4 is a mans car if you ask me, the smaller they get the girlier they are too me. 8-[

....enough of my dribble

I got my mirrors back the other day, much better now, no more chrome pits. Next I need to polish the stainless housings and then reassemble them. I'll probably make some new base rubber gaskets as well.


Spent a bit of time test fitting some new weather strips and window regulator so I can find all the required parts for reassembly. The car is a bit dusty


More parts came back from the platers, I think I have one more final run to do and then Im done. I basically send everything off now, whether it needs to be plated or not. Its a great cheap way of having someone else clean up all your dirty rusty parts.... I do absolutely nothing to them apart from putting them in a box and dropping them off. Pic 1, starter motor rear housing and all the nuts and bolts. I'll also check the commutator, soleniod and brushes before it goes back together basically making it as new. Oh yeah there's also some water housing studs there as well ! Pic 2 we have brake fluid brackets, horn components which came up really well considering it looked like oxided junk, and the horn nuts and bolts. I havent decided whether to prime and paint the horn parts that were painted from factory or leave them in the gold finish.


Pic 1, ashtray bracket, factory hose clamps, fuel filter bracket, McPherson strut nuts, bolts and washers, and finally brake hose clips. Pic 2,rear bar brackets, more suspension nuts and bolts, door catch and front tow hook bolts, front bar bracket bolts.


Glass and regulator fitted so I can locate all the necessary parts from my boxes of parts. All this stuff is coming apart again once I locate everything. The regulators have already been replated as seen in a previous update.


Guards ready for wet blocking and gave the rear a quick coat of paint. If the guards were'nt rust free I would have tossed them....... I bet none of you knew Mazda pumped the flares at the factory


Pic 1, Stone guard, primer and and another quick coat of paint. Pic 2, finally in colour


A few more shots of the painted guards. For a pair of guards that were truely f***## in order to fit large wide wheels by the previous owner, they now look amazing especially when you look at the before shots. Still not sure how i pulled that one off, but I'm happy with them ! Look forward to fitting them and taking some better photos with the car sitting on a proper set of wheels. No reason it cant happen as all the nuts, bolts, washers and bushes are there ready to go. Bushes is something I dont need to worry about as the previous owner of the car refreshed them all.


Final shot for now, boot hinges have been painted.... It'll be fun working out how the springs go back together, something that was originally not fitted as one of the hooks in the boot was broken when I bought the car which is now repaired.


So where too from here ? Well the bonnet is pretty much ready for colour which just leaves the nosecone. The nose should be in a sealer shortly. Im just finishing off any remaining minor repairs before doing so. Im also working on putting small stuff together like horns and organising parts to go back together in the near future.

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Here's a couple more photos.... Painting is pretty much finished. I'll wet rub with 2000 then go over it with 3000 pad on a DA then polish, hopefully it'll turn out like the roof. The wet rub is basically to denib the paint and correct any minor flaws. The 3000 just makes polishing that little bit easier. I'm no polishing guru, I need to take things nice and slow so I don't screw up the paint which is very easy to do. The paint will be left for a month or two before waxing, but I'm sometime off that.

The front panels still need to be aligned and bolted down which isnt far away. Before the nosecone goes on I have a few small paint jobs to do like the head light brackets/ buckets, bonnet stay, battery tray etc etc. Interior still needs a good clean and possibly a coat of primer although its in reasonable condtion.


The diff housing and rear end parts need a repaint, new bearing and a few other goodies. Thats on my short list to have the car sitting back on it's wheels.

Gypsy,
What vendor did you use to secure weather stripping, door seals, trunk seal etc....... I am needing to replace these same items in the windows, around the doors, the trunk etc...., and I am located in the states. I have reviewed Scotts Older Auto Rubber, but am curious who you would recommend for a 1973 Mazda RX2, left hand driver.


Thanks!

I dont have a full weatherstrip kit yet. I have an identical new inner front weather strip and genuine Mazda outer weatherstrip (rx2 has neither of these). The Rx3 coupe shares the same weatherstrip thats found between the door trim and door glass and the door glass and door chrome strip found on the Rx2. These inner and outer (identical) strips typically perish. The Rx3 only use this on the inner strip mounted to the rear interior panel.

You could try rarespares.net.au , whether its identical I couldnt tell you. I would only consider identical stuff on my car (or close too). Maybe some pf the Rx2 owners could point you in the right direction. If you have no luck with the weatherstrip as mentioned above PM me late January and I'll see if I can get you the right stuff. For the more common stuff for the boot, door channels, door frame etc best ask a Rx2 guy on here for quality.

Guys

Just noticed our after rubbers etc

Take a look @ this place

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/M ... pe-RX3.htm

Hope its of some help
Im not affiliated, just looking @ getting stuff for my EP71 from them

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