1976 mazda 121

Chuxa · **Posted:** Sat Aug 13, 2011 8:26 am

A small DIY job and you may look for panel beater without worries that you will be too late or if you do it good enough you would not need panel beater.

but it all depends on your knowledge and hands

B1600 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:03 am

you will be surprised what can be repaired.
The inner frame is edge pressed under the skin and then glued to the skin with sikaflex in many spots.
Its 30+ years old and caused more rust than it saved.
These cars suffer a lot from rust worm.
It can be fixed.
there just not around for spares like they used to be so you need to be patient and scour everything regularly.
unless you find a new old stock bonnet your going to be fixing whatever you can find anyway for it to be perfect.
The car looks to be original A1 Royal Blue Metallic.

jimjams · **Posted:** Mon Aug 15, 2011 3:35 am

yeah im no good with body repairs. only the greasy bits. but i guess im going to have to get the nads up one day soon and cut into it

zionfarm · **Posted:** Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:41 pm

jimjams wrote:

zionfarm thay are 14 7j but the stud pattern is 4x120.
if you could find a set with the right stud pattern i think this sizing would look sick on a fc.

Chuxa its not bad enof yet to be deregisterd but i havent found a pannel beater willing to take on the job.
basicaly becouse the supports have come away from the sheet metel.

Thx jimjams I have been looking into these rims along with the Work equip 02 and the SSR Longchamp XR4. Like I said earlier I'm contemplating on these four lug rims or upgrading to the 5 lug to install my 4 pot RX7 brakes I have.

zionfarm · **Posted:** Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:43 pm

Oh yeah by the way whats the offset?

jimjams · **Posted:** Tue Aug 30, 2011 6:06 am

ummm i think its like -2 or is it +2 i cant remember but im pritty shore thay are 2inch deep

jimjams · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:34 am

hole lot of fail on the distributor front and i think it finally let go tonight.
so im considering putting a rotory in it.

Chuxa · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:40 am

Good move

but it will take some time

to lockate engine and swap it

but result must be good

jimjams · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:53 am

we will see haha

philip · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 4:50 am

Bloke,
Would you be looking for one of these? You just gotta talk to the right people.

One electronic dizzy is certainly going to be cheaper than doing a rotary conversion!

LH one is incomplete but can be converted to Bosch Ignition Module. Rotor button and cap is the same as Mitsubishi Sigma.
RH one is complete.

Third one, still in my old MA engine

Having assisted in doing a few 121 to RX5 conversions, providing you stay
naturally aspirated, you'll need minimum:
Engine with flywheel
RX5 Crossmember(RX4 is same width) and front engine mount
Gearbox - unless you re-use your 121 gearbox(which has good ratios!), then modify input shaft and change bellhousing.
Clutch
Radiator
Oil Cooler
Complete Exhaust
Ignition coils
Radiator hoses
Heater hoses
Sundries - thermo fan, auxilliary wiring, thermostat,etc

P.S. If you just want a stock standard points dizzy, I've got a couple of these as well!

jimjams · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:51 am

holy cap you are a ninja

you wouldn't be interested in selling me a dizzy or two would you.

B1600 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:48 pm

Phil,
Sell him that dissy. It all he seems to need to get it running properly.
Once its in and set up he will forget about the rotary.

ewokracing · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 4:15 pm

RX-5's are so cheap, you'd be mad to convert a tidy 121 like yours.

jimjams · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 11:05 pm

yeah I'm not keen on the conversion but its the last option.
considering i rebuilt the 4 cylinder not long ago i don't wont to get rid of it.
o and i will need one of the point dizzys not the electronic type

jimjams · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2011 11:06 pm

and on a side note does anybody know how much it would cost to have the body restored.

philip · **Posted:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:33 am

jimjams wrote:

holy cap you are a ninja

you wouldn't be interested in selling me a dizzy or two would you.

We shall talk young man!

If it makes you feel any better, I picked up an L200 dissy in Mildura today
with the J105 igniter, correct cap and rotor button to fit my incomplete dissy! :twisted:

timmy201 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 6:09 am

Electronic > points

They should be more or less a direct swap. A lot less issues and fiddling once you get the electronic ones going too.

From trolling this website, it would seem that the replaceable parts on the VC dizzy (cap, rotor, points) are the same as the later TC and NA and the MA from a 929.
http://www.bosch.com.au/content/languag ... _Ready.pdf

jimjams · **Posted:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:05 am

sweet can't wait I'm keen on getting one of each. a electronic and a points version.

i have been replacing the parts of my current one every 6 months or so. my busted dizzy keeps wearing everything out and now its dead.

B1600 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:06 pm

put the electronic in. once its set up you forget about it.
plugs/oil and filters will be the only tune up required.
you will need to get a non resistor type 12v coil and delete the ballast resistor so it gets a full 12v instead of around 9v.
there are 2 easy ones to get. a gt40 or an SU12 both oil filled by bosch.
Get it sorted out and it will be way more reliable.

ewokracing · **Posted:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:09 pm

I think there are two types of GT40 coil as well, so make sure you get the right one! (I think one is the GT40R from memory).

1976 mazda 121

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