To share some some info to you guys.
Here by a pictorial on how to swap to 4x100

On this site is already a tutorial on how to do it,BUT I dont like this one
http://www.1stgencivic.com/world/c1zr/m ... hp?t=12530

Why is it that i dont like this one,I'v done it.But took it of after riding it and realignment .

Due to the fact that you use the lower control arm and 2nd gen hub ,your wheel span wil change big,it will widen out a lott!!
Now you will not be able to put wider wheels on your car.Your positive camber is still there .So steering is BAD.

This is what i recomment,this is what I think is best.
You can give reply's if you think I am not right,I dont mind



What do you need:

1st gen knuckles
1st gen brake callipers
2nd gen disk brake
2nd gen hub(4x100)
Wheel bearing (1st or 2nd gen ,both will fit)
2nd gen 80/83 pinion or modify the 1st gen item(shown later)


This is what a 2nd gen hub looks like with dust seal of 1st gen on.


1st gen dust seal on 2nd gen hub


1st gen hub with 2nd gen seal and visa versa



So now you know its fits!!

2nd gen knuckle and 1st gen knuckle




1st gen and 2nd gen bearings,both wil fit in 1st or 2nd gen knuckle!



Now beforen pressing it all together ,you need to shorten the bolt heads of the dust seal.When the 1st gen hub is fitted on the knuckle you got clearance couse its 4x120,so more space.
The 2nd gen is 4x100,so 20mm less clearance.
Grind of the bold heads,that is the easy way


Than put it al together,2nd gen hub in 1st gen knuckle


Than put 2nd gen disk brake on,and 1st gen brake callipers.



Now you are almost done
The pinion head of the 1st gen will not fit the hub,the splines run all the way on 2nd gen hubs,1st gens run 2/3 the way.

So you need to swap the pinion head to 2nd gen 80/83 on your axle.
I like it easy,1 just put my pinion on my lathe,and made more room on the spline track.Just made it a bit deeper,so the splines of the hub wil slide further on de pinion head.





I even made the swap better:

what i used

1st gen knuckles
2nd gen hub
2nd gen bearing
civic 92 brake booster and main cillinder
civic 92 vti brake calliper and disk
home made bracket

Thanks for sharing, would like the big brakes and to keep the 4x120 stud pattern, think its possible?

Then redrill your big brake disks to 4x120,make an adaptor for the calliper.
And bob's your uncle

Nice work and explanation!

Though to be fair I don't think the linked swaps actually proposed using 2nd gen Civic knuckles & lower control arms (which would widen the front track as suggested). {unless their swap description had been updated since you had first started your conversion}
Just the Hubs within them like you did, within the original knuckles (or 1st gen Civic 4/5 door sedan/wagon knuckles for larger caliper mountings). Because I figured when they said

Quote:

" 80'-83' civic 1300 front hubs and outboard joints "

they proposed fitting the 2nd gen Civic outer joints to the ends of the driveshaft to avoid machining them like you did, but skipped over any detail regarding that..

Your explanation is so much clearer with pictures.
"On the front the front seal bolts have to be ground down. (If not they will hit the hub upon rotation)"
Your picture of the hub bearing cover bolt interference with the 2nd gen hub really shows that properly. I countersunk the holes for countersunk screws instead on my Accord.

I presume the "civic 92 vti brake calliper and disk" is for the top-spec Civic (of the time) & 2nd gen Integra 262mm diameter disc.
Where the 1stgencivic threads alternate proposal for 1st gen Civic 4/5 door sedan/wagon knuckles (with newer 2G hubs) would probably only allow for the 242mm vented discs and calipers of more prosaic 3-6th generation Civics & 1g Integra, but required no change of brake master cylinder, booster or proportioning valve upon my Accord.

_________________
www.cardomain.com/id/79cord
'79 Accord, '89 CR-X SiR, '81 Prelude, '74 Z360 H/T, '71 Z360, '64 S600, '75 Lancia Beta.

You can put big brakes on without the hub works if you want to keep 4 X 120 (which I did).

I used to sell a brake package for these basically it comprised of a TM magna disk (330mm) with holden commodore callipers. The caliper brakets need the holes changed slightly to allow them to bolt direct up to the hub (ie press in dowels and redrill to correct pattern). The holes on the disk nned to be drilled and threaded so they will bolt to the standard hub, I then fit heat resistant lock nuts behind the disk for added security.

This is for Australian readers. The reason I choose these components is they are readily available very cheaply in Australia. I sold several sets to the states as well. I had a bigger version as well but these needed bigger than 14" rims to clear the assembly.

These brakes are amazing, they use an alloy caliper with a wide selection of race compound pads available, they work with the rest of the braking system and don't require a diferent stud pattern or a rear hub swap. Many people that do the 4X100 swap machine down the rear spindles so the later model hubs fit. This really weakens the hubs and many people have had bent spindles as a result.

Good luck which ever way you go.

I have a set of these on my turbocharged 1200 if you want a pic.