On go the filterbases and air horns too. You might notice that I've swapped out the old rubber fuel hoses for vintage-look braided cloth ones.
And then the filters.
Then I started to check the valve clearances...but quickly realised that Tony Knight had set them up on the bench already...sweet!
New plugs...I find that NGK BP6ES-11s work best. BP7ES seem to get a little more top end, but don't seem to idle so good.
Then we set up the carbs. One common thing I hear when people see the engine bay, is a comment about how the Webers must be so hard to keep in tune. But to be honest, it's really quite easy. Now that I'm reassembling everything, I decided to give the carbs some TLC. First step is to measure the carb linkages, to ensure that they are all the same length, and they were...after all, why should they mysteriously get longer or shorter over the years
Then I set the idle speed this way. Under these brass plugs are the progression ports.
The progression ports are these holes, which give a slug of fuel when you crack open the throttle. You should set up the throttle, so that at idle, the edge of the throttle flap just about covers the topmost hole. Mine seem to idle best when the throttle flap covers the top 2/3s of the top progression hole. It's very important that you get this the same on every carb, because when they're off, you don't get that nice, crisp response when you gun it off idle. I used to sync my carbs by using devices that you stick into the airhorn while the car is running, to measure airflow, but I find that this is much more accurate. And easy, too
By the way, to adjust the throttle flap, you tweak this throttle stop screw on the side of the carb.
Next parameter are the idle mixture screws. I know from tuning with the wideband sensor, that the idle is best when these are screwed out 7/8ths of a turn from closed. But as you can see, it's very easy in my case to see that they are in adjustment, because the flats on the idle screws are both at the 9-3 o'clock position. You can easily verify that they are still properly adjusted everytime you open the bonnet, and they never seem to go out of adjustment by themselves (as I said before...why would they
Now that the carbs are all "zeroed", you have to follow suit with the throttle arms. First I hook up one of the carbs to the throttle arm on the jackshaft, and I loosen the remaining two throttle arms.
Refit the linkages, and tighten the remaining two throttle arms, while you are taking up the slack with your other hand. And that's it, I find that after you set up the carbs and linkages on the bench like this, it isn't necessary to do any further tweaking once the car is running. I run these basic checks every time I do an oil change, but generally you don't need to adjust anything.
The last thing, is to fill the radiator with plain, distilled water. As Tony Knight recommended, maybe coolant isn't such a great idea until the head gasket breaks in. I'll swap over to proper coolant after the engine's had a few hundred km under its belt.
And she's alive! http://youtu.be/PsvlrJYTmGM
I only had time to take her for a short drive around the block, but she feels great, and everything is back as it should be. Fingers crossed it stays that way...
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.