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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:14 pm 
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Location: Nor Cal
Quote:
And yes adapter axles have been ordered from Beta Motorsport, which will allow me to use a Subaru STi LSD unit in place of the open stock diff.



Can you send me a pm on the web site for the adaptors?

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:24 pm 
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kgc10 wrote:
Quote:
And yes adapter axles have been ordered from Beta Motorsport, which will allow me to use a Subaru STi LSD unit in place of the open stock diff.



Can you send me a pm on the web site for the adaptors?

Here you go: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products ... 6&scat2=31
They sold out 6mths ago, and John from Beta needs to get enough orders before he can trigger the next production run of these.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 3:32 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Didn't you sell the Luce Babs?

shitbum about the Devcon reacting, at least TK will be able to put it right properly.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:47 am 
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No, the Luce is still in the collection :)

Yup, the plan is, TK's going to cut out all the epoxy, then tig it up, and port/machine everything back again. Bit of a hassle, but it'll be 100% metal when he's done and a permanent solution.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 5:49 pm 
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kev wrote:
One of my mates is selling his KGC10.
Image

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Details are:
Quote:
Engine L28: (L20 to go with the car as well)
Mild camshaft
Triple 40mm Webbers
Mild cleanup of the ports
Standard bore N42 (ready for 3.1Lt conversion !!!!!)
Recent freshen up
Flat top pistons balanced bottom end
Extractors
5 speed manual
Aftermarket Steering wheel (Standard one to go with the car)
3.9:1 locked differential (also provided is an 4.4:1 R200 LSD)
1980 280ZX rotors and callipers braided brake lines
R32 GTR front seats (standard ones go with the car as well)
SSR Wheels
Adjustable strut tops
Adjustable rear shocks
Nakamachi CD/Radio

Very reasonably priced at A$25,000: location Sydney. Send me a PM if you're interested, and I'll fwd your details to the owner.


SOLD....and gone to a very good (multiple-Datto-owning) home :)

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 2:20 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 2:41 am
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
How far off is the Hako Kev?
I have a day at Marulan coming up and thought you might be interested.
I may invite our friend with the camera.
I haven't told him about my other hobby by the way.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 3:35 am 
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Depends on how soon...I'll give Tony a call tomorrow to see how the head's going.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 2:41 am
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
Early June.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:25 pm 
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31GUN wrote:
Early June.

Ok the head should be finished this week, I'm not sure if I'll have it by the weekend, but that means early June should be fine.

...and you should tell our mates with the camera, about your hobby :)

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:13 am 
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Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 2:41 am
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
I'd feel like a bit of a dill shouting ichi, ni, san(etc) at a bunch of 12 year olds while leaning on a stick.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:20 am 
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31GUN wrote:
I'd feel like a bit of a dill shouting ichi, ni, san(etc) at a bunch of 12 year olds while leaning on a stick.

You need to spice it up a bit. Fights to the death, initiation rituals involving kicks to the groin, etc.....and would it really kill you to wave the stick around in a threatening manner?

...we should probably take this discussion offline though :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 802
Location: Melbourne, Australia
kev wrote:
31GUN wrote:
I'd feel like a bit of a dill shouting ichi, ni, san(etc) at a bunch of 12 year olds while leaning on a stick.

You need to spice it up a bit. Fights to the death, initiation rituals involving kicks to the groin, etc.....and would it really kill you to wave the stick around in a threatening manner?

...we should probably take this discussion offline though :lol:


ooo0oooh management lingo there "offline"

I'm intrigued by the kick to the groin bit. Do you have a newsletter?

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:56 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Queensland Australia
hey kev im new here and i registered to post here because of this thread.
i was watching a video on youtube called jdm vs rice and your car is in it as jdm around 30 seconds
heres the link : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7cBdHy0 ... dded#at=31

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 7:12 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Phew...at least we ended up on the right side of the fence :)

BTW guys the cylinder head is back and is as good as new. Hopefully the car's running again tonight. Pics to follow.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:07 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
keep us posted!!!














but we know you will. :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 4:38 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Queensland Australia
hopefully in a few hours ill have some thing to do before/after school other than minecraft and intial d vids :D

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 6:44 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Gosh you guys are impatient :)

Well I'm almoooost done. The car's all together but before I fire her up and burp the radiator, I want to start afresh and double-check everything first. And there's a gazillion pics, so that'll take time to sort through and write up too.

Umm....gimme a day or two 8)

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:10 am 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
no worries, it'll be worth it.

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:01 am 
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Ok you asked for it... :)

To recap, during the trackday a few weeks ago, this happened. Tracks of coolant could be seem running down the side of the block, which is a definite sign of a blown head gasket. Funny thing was, the car drove quite normally, it was a little down on power, and a bit smoky under decel (which I figured was oil being sucked past the gasket into the combustion chambers under vacuum). But it didn't overheat and we managed to gently limp home without any dramas.
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Blowing the head gasket at that exact spot seems to be a bit of an L-series thing. I had a chat with L-series engine guru Stewart Wilkins about it, and he said that sometimes it just happens, and you get some coolant leak at that spot. Sometimes it's just a little bit of a crust from dried coolant and that isn't worth worrying about, but in my case it's obviosuly more serious.

So that weekend, I started to take the engine apart. The Hako engine's been pretty trouble free since my mate Nathan rebuilt her in May 2009, so it's been a while since I took it all apart like this. In the early part of the build in 2008, it seemed that I was constantly stripping the engine like this to diagnose all the various problems, so it only takes just over an hour to get to this stage, with the manifolds and carbs removed.
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But remember the oil breather can? This is the fitting that goes into the air filter, and after a trackday, there isn't any film of oil there at all. If there is any meaningful blowby coming out of the rocker cover, then the breather can is doing its job and scrubbing the oil mist out of the air before it ends up in the air filter. So that's good to know it works...
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The next step before we cam remove the head, is to make a chain wedge. In an L-series, the chain tensioner is spring-loaded, and is in an inaccessible spot, right at the bottom of the timing cover, just above the lower chain sprocket. If you just remove the cam sprocket, the chain will go slack, the tensioner will pop out, taking too much slack out of the chain. The only way you can reset the tensioner is to remove the timing cover (and that requires the crank pulley to come out, etc which is a big job).
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So I made this out of some wood, initially too thick on purpose, and then gradually shaving it on the belt sander and test fitting it, until it could slide down the vee of the chain, and snugly keep the tensioner from popping out. The foot of the wooden wedge rests on the lower chain sprocket. Once you slide it in place, the cam sprocket can be carefully removed.
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I also like to use a bungee cord to keep some tension on the chain, just in case it decides to slide down a bit and jump a tooth on the lower sprocket.
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With the chain out of the equation you can then undo the head bolts, which have to be done in a certain order.
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And then the head just lifts off. The engine's only done 12,000kms since the May 2009 rebuild, so the head separated easily by hand, and the gasket came off easily. Sometimes the old gasket really gets baked on and you have to scrape it off, but it peeled off no worries leaving a pretty clean surface.
Image

Pistons and bores look ok...the piston crowns are a little greasy, presumably from the blown gasket allowing oil into the combustion chambers, but the bores look ok. There's a little bit of bore glazing, but I think that's probably because the Webers probably overfuel a bit when you're doing low-rpm commuting, which is basically what I use the car for. So the excess fuel has washed the lubricating oil off the bores, which have become slightly polished over time. It's only minor I think, but it's a reminder that I really should take the Hako out for proper hard drives every now and then, instead of just using it for sitting in traffic on the way to work :)
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This is the spot where the gasket blew.
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But the head looks fine once it was on the bench
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Of course, we now know that the head had to go back to Knight Engines to have that putty issue sorted out, and I'll let Tony Knight take over:

Quote:
Head stripped, hole opened up, 2-Pack blasted out & dressed for welding:

Image

Image

Welded:

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Weld dressed:

Image

Manifold face, top face & gasket face skimmed, seats touched up with a stone, valve lightly refaced & head scrubbed clean:

Image

Image

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Back together again:

Image


Tony did an absolutely BRILLIANT job, in repairing it, he made a wall of welded metal to fill the hole, and the repair is imperceptible, and is smooth as silk.
Image

The valves and seats are redone and so basically the head is all brand new again!
Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:49 am 
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So now that the cylinder head is all lovely again, it's got to go back onto the block. First thing was to clean the block surface in readiness for the new head gasket, so I've used a razor blade and gasket stripper spray to clean the few spots where there was some residue from the old gasket. One theory that Tony Knight had for the gasket blow was that I had used coolant in the first fill of the radiator after the 2009 rebuild. Coolant has wetting agents to break down surface tension and improve heat transfer, but the wetting agent can also wick into the new gasket and soak it. That can create a leak path later. Makes sense to me, but it also means that we should make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembly for the same reason.
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I then cleaned out the head bolt holes with a tap, to get any crud out.
Image

In readiness for these! ARP head stud kit.
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Another possible theory for the gasket blow were that the old oem head bolts had gone soft. When you tension the head bolts down on a cylinder head, the thing that provides the clamping force is actually a slight, elastic stretching of the head bolt material. It's quite possible that after several decades, and at least one rebuild, that the bolts have lost their elasticity and so don't provide good clamping force anymore. Well anyway it seemed like good insurance to replace the oem head bolts with the ARP stud kit, which as you can see, is a stud and nut, rather than a bolt. First you install the studs, which screw in just by hand.
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Then on goes a new OEM gasket, to suit the 89mm overbore that Hako has (I got it from http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/ and suspect it might be a factory gasket for an LD diesel)
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This actually means that refitting the head is a bit more tricky, since you have to carefully thread all those studs into the head. The holes in the head are 10.5mm, and the studs are 10mm, so it's a very snug fit, and some of my mates were kind enough to come and lend a hand. The cylinder head isn't that heavy, maybe 20kg or so, but it would have been a challenge to lift it over the fender and then work out how to slide it on over the ARP studs! So it really does make it a lot easier if you can snaffle a few guys (preferably with long arms and good upper body strength!) to help. But once the head is in place, it does slide into position very satisfyingly on those ARP studs.
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ARP's instructions for torquing up the studs are pretty specific. You have to follow the factory pattern for torquing up the nuts (which is basically...start in the middle and work outwards) but ARP recommend torquing up in 3 steps of 20ft-lbs, working up to a final torque of 60ft-lbs.
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And you have to use a special lube provided with the stud kit. The theory is that often, torquing up oem head bolts to 60ft-lbs doesn't actually give you 60ft-lbs of clamping force. Friction in the threads will account for some of it, as well as losses from the twisting of the head bolt against the block threads. So the ARP system of using studs eliminates most of that friction, and the supplied lube means that the friction experience between the threadsm nut and washer are consistent with the amount of friction that ARP has factored into their 60ft-lbs recommendation. Sounds good to me, and so the stud kit should in theory improve the head clamping, even if it's just from better/fresher materials. I don't want to do this again, so I was happy to try out every theory I heard of to make the engine better!
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Once the head's all torqued up, the cam sprocket can be refitted, and the chain wedge pulled out. The sprocket went on easily, so thankfully the chain wedge did its job and the chain stayed put during the couple of weeks that the engine was all apart. You might also see the paint marks I made on the sprocket and chain to help in reassembly. Oh and yes for all you L-series guys out there, yes I did forget to refit the big washer onto the cam sprocket bolt, I fixed that after I took the photo :)
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The next step is to refit the manifolds, and I've used a "bigport" gasket from Stewart Wilkins. He's got this process where he can stamp bigger holes into regular gaskets, to suit L-series heads which have enlarged ports.
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The headers, which I painted in POR15 Black Velvet, have held up surprisingly well over the years, so all they needed was a wipedown.
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The inlet and exhaust manifolds share a stud in a few spots, where you use a "bridge washer" to tighten down both manifolds. Because the exhaust flange is a little thicker, I made a step in the bridge washers.
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The step allows the nut to sit flat on the bridge washer, which otherwise would have sat at an angle. The nuts are only torqued to 12ft-lbs, which isn't very much, but then again the 8mm studs aren't the strongest design.
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Before the carbs go on, you have to fit these rubber softmounts, which insulate the carbs from engine vibration. By rights these shouldn't be recycled, but the rubber was still soft and pliant, so I figured they were good for another go.
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The softmounts mean that you can't bolt down the carbs with conventional nuts, so you use these, which are a combination of rubber washer, metal cup washer, and nylock nut.
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You tighten the nut so that the rubber washer squashes up a little bit, but not too much that the carb is deprived of movement.
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Under the carbs go the heatshield, which might not look like much, but actually does a lot. The Webers sit directly above the headers, but I've never had any issues with fuel vaporisation or hot starting. Remove that heatshield and immediately you start to have problems.
Image

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