#
It is currently Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:46 pm


Post a new topicPost a reply Page 63 of 81   [ 1608 posts ]
Go to page Previous  1 ... 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66 ... 81  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:37 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 791
Location: Melbourne, Australia
kev wrote:
31GUN wrote:
I'd feel like a bit of a dill shouting ichi, ni, san(etc) at a bunch of 12 year olds while leaning on a stick.

You need to spice it up a bit. Fights to the death, initiation rituals involving kicks to the groin, etc.....and would it really kill you to wave the stick around in a threatening manner?

...we should probably take this discussion offline though :lol:


ooo0oooh management lingo there "offline"

I'm intrigued by the kick to the groin bit. Do you have a newsletter?

_________________
occasional blog: http://ewokracing.tumblr.com

Brought to you by me as I search Alta Vista for Geocities webpages using Netscape Navigator while listening to Jam & Spoon.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:56 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Queensland Australia
hey kev im new here and i registered to post here because of this thread.
i was watching a video on youtube called jdm vs rice and your car is in it as jdm around 30 seconds
heres the link : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7cBdHy0 ... dded#at=31

_________________
Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 7:12 pm 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Phew...at least we ended up on the right side of the fence :)

BTW guys the cylinder head is back and is as good as new. Hopefully the car's running again tonight. Pics to follow.

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 9:07 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
keep us posted!!!














but we know you will. :tu:

_________________
Hey you dang woodchucks! Quit chuckin' my wood!
--------------------------------------------------------


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 4:38 am 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Queensland Australia
hopefully in a few hours ill have some thing to do before/after school other than minecraft and intial d vids :D

_________________
Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 6:44 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Gosh you guys are impatient :)

Well I'm almoooost done. The car's all together but before I fire her up and burp the radiator, I want to start afresh and double-check everything first. And there's a gazillion pics, so that'll take time to sort through and write up too.

Umm....gimme a day or two 8)

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:10 am 

Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: Sugarhouse, Utah
no worries, it'll be worth it.

_________________
Hey you dang woodchucks! Quit chuckin' my wood!
--------------------------------------------------------


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:01 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Ok you asked for it... :)

To recap, during the trackday a few weeks ago, this happened. Tracks of coolant could be seem running down the side of the block, which is a definite sign of a blown head gasket. Funny thing was, the car drove quite normally, it was a little down on power, and a bit smoky under decel (which I figured was oil being sucked past the gasket into the combustion chambers under vacuum). But it didn't overheat and we managed to gently limp home without any dramas.
Image

Blowing the head gasket at that exact spot seems to be a bit of an L-series thing. I had a chat with L-series engine guru Stewart Wilkins about it, and he said that sometimes it just happens, and you get some coolant leak at that spot. Sometimes it's just a little bit of a crust from dried coolant and that isn't worth worrying about, but in my case it's obviosuly more serious.

So that weekend, I started to take the engine apart. The Hako engine's been pretty trouble free since my mate Nathan rebuilt her in May 2009, so it's been a while since I took it all apart like this. In the early part of the build in 2008, it seemed that I was constantly stripping the engine like this to diagnose all the various problems, so it only takes just over an hour to get to this stage, with the manifolds and carbs removed.
Image

But remember the oil breather can? This is the fitting that goes into the air filter, and after a trackday, there isn't any film of oil there at all. If there is any meaningful blowby coming out of the rocker cover, then the breather can is doing its job and scrubbing the oil mist out of the air before it ends up in the air filter. So that's good to know it works...
Image

The next step before we cam remove the head, is to make a chain wedge. In an L-series, the chain tensioner is spring-loaded, and is in an inaccessible spot, right at the bottom of the timing cover, just above the lower chain sprocket. If you just remove the cam sprocket, the chain will go slack, the tensioner will pop out, taking too much slack out of the chain. The only way you can reset the tensioner is to remove the timing cover (and that requires the crank pulley to come out, etc which is a big job).
Image

So I made this out of some wood, initially too thick on purpose, and then gradually shaving it on the belt sander and test fitting it, until it could slide down the vee of the chain, and snugly keep the tensioner from popping out. The foot of the wooden wedge rests on the lower chain sprocket. Once you slide it in place, the cam sprocket can be carefully removed.
Image

I also like to use a bungee cord to keep some tension on the chain, just in case it decides to slide down a bit and jump a tooth on the lower sprocket.
Image

With the chain out of the equation you can then undo the head bolts, which have to be done in a certain order.
Image

And then the head just lifts off. The engine's only done 12,000kms since the May 2009 rebuild, so the head separated easily by hand, and the gasket came off easily. Sometimes the old gasket really gets baked on and you have to scrape it off, but it peeled off no worries leaving a pretty clean surface.
Image

Pistons and bores look ok...the piston crowns are a little greasy, presumably from the blown gasket allowing oil into the combustion chambers, but the bores look ok. There's a little bit of bore glazing, but I think that's probably because the Webers probably overfuel a bit when you're doing low-rpm commuting, which is basically what I use the car for. So the excess fuel has washed the lubricating oil off the bores, which have become slightly polished over time. It's only minor I think, but it's a reminder that I really should take the Hako out for proper hard drives every now and then, instead of just using it for sitting in traffic on the way to work :)
Image

This is the spot where the gasket blew.
Image

But the head looks fine once it was on the bench
Image

Image

Of course, we now know that the head had to go back to Knight Engines to have that putty issue sorted out, and I'll let Tony Knight take over:

Quote:
Head stripped, hole opened up, 2-Pack blasted out & dressed for welding:

Image

Image

Welded:

Image

Weld dressed:

Image

Manifold face, top face & gasket face skimmed, seats touched up with a stone, valve lightly refaced & head scrubbed clean:

Image

Image

Image

Back together again:

Image


Tony did an absolutely BRILLIANT job, in repairing it, he made a wall of welded metal to fill the hole, and the repair is imperceptible, and is smooth as silk.
Image

The valves and seats are redone and so basically the head is all brand new again!
Image

Image

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:49 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
So now that the cylinder head is all lovely again, it's got to go back onto the block. First thing was to clean the block surface in readiness for the new head gasket, so I've used a razor blade and gasket stripper spray to clean the few spots where there was some residue from the old gasket. One theory that Tony Knight had for the gasket blow was that I had used coolant in the first fill of the radiator after the 2009 rebuild. Coolant has wetting agents to break down surface tension and improve heat transfer, but the wetting agent can also wick into the new gasket and soak it. That can create a leak path later. Makes sense to me, but it also means that we should make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembly for the same reason.
Image

I then cleaned out the head bolt holes with a tap, to get any crud out.
Image

In readiness for these! ARP head stud kit.
Image

Another possible theory for the gasket blow were that the old oem head bolts had gone soft. When you tension the head bolts down on a cylinder head, the thing that provides the clamping force is actually a slight, elastic stretching of the head bolt material. It's quite possible that after several decades, and at least one rebuild, that the bolts have lost their elasticity and so don't provide good clamping force anymore. Well anyway it seemed like good insurance to replace the oem head bolts with the ARP stud kit, which as you can see, is a stud and nut, rather than a bolt. First you install the studs, which screw in just by hand.
Image

Then on goes a new OEM gasket, to suit the 89mm overbore that Hako has (I got it from http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/ and suspect it might be a factory gasket for an LD diesel)
Image

This actually means that refitting the head is a bit more tricky, since you have to carefully thread all those studs into the head. The holes in the head are 10.5mm, and the studs are 10mm, so it's a very snug fit, and some of my mates were kind enough to come and lend a hand. The cylinder head isn't that heavy, maybe 20kg or so, but it would have been a challenge to lift it over the fender and then work out how to slide it on over the ARP studs! So it really does make it a lot easier if you can snaffle a few guys (preferably with long arms and good upper body strength!) to help. But once the head is in place, it does slide into position very satisfyingly on those ARP studs.
Image

ARP's instructions for torquing up the studs are pretty specific. You have to follow the factory pattern for torquing up the nuts (which is basically...start in the middle and work outwards) but ARP recommend torquing up in 3 steps of 20ft-lbs, working up to a final torque of 60ft-lbs.
Image

And you have to use a special lube provided with the stud kit. The theory is that often, torquing up oem head bolts to 60ft-lbs doesn't actually give you 60ft-lbs of clamping force. Friction in the threads will account for some of it, as well as losses from the twisting of the head bolt against the block threads. So the ARP system of using studs eliminates most of that friction, and the supplied lube means that the friction experience between the threadsm nut and washer are consistent with the amount of friction that ARP has factored into their 60ft-lbs recommendation. Sounds good to me, and so the stud kit should in theory improve the head clamping, even if it's just from better/fresher materials. I don't want to do this again, so I was happy to try out every theory I heard of to make the engine better!
Image

Once the head's all torqued up, the cam sprocket can be refitted, and the chain wedge pulled out. The sprocket went on easily, so thankfully the chain wedge did its job and the chain stayed put during the couple of weeks that the engine was all apart. You might also see the paint marks I made on the sprocket and chain to help in reassembly. Oh and yes for all you L-series guys out there, yes I did forget to refit the big washer onto the cam sprocket bolt, I fixed that after I took the photo :)
Image

The next step is to refit the manifolds, and I've used a "bigport" gasket from Stewart Wilkins. He's got this process where he can stamp bigger holes into regular gaskets, to suit L-series heads which have enlarged ports.
Image

The headers, which I painted in POR15 Black Velvet, have held up surprisingly well over the years, so all they needed was a wipedown.
Image

The inlet and exhaust manifolds share a stud in a few spots, where you use a "bridge washer" to tighten down both manifolds. Because the exhaust flange is a little thicker, I made a step in the bridge washers.
Image

The step allows the nut to sit flat on the bridge washer, which otherwise would have sat at an angle. The nuts are only torqued to 12ft-lbs, which isn't very much, but then again the 8mm studs aren't the strongest design.
Image

Before the carbs go on, you have to fit these rubber softmounts, which insulate the carbs from engine vibration. By rights these shouldn't be recycled, but the rubber was still soft and pliant, so I figured they were good for another go.
Image

The softmounts mean that you can't bolt down the carbs with conventional nuts, so you use these, which are a combination of rubber washer, metal cup washer, and nylock nut.
Image

You tighten the nut so that the rubber washer squashes up a little bit, but not too much that the carb is deprived of movement.
Image

Under the carbs go the heatshield, which might not look like much, but actually does a lot. The Webers sit directly above the headers, but I've never had any issues with fuel vaporisation or hot starting. Remove that heatshield and immediately you start to have problems.
Image

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 9:09 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
On go the filterbases and air horns too. You might notice that I've swapped out the old rubber fuel hoses for vintage-look braided cloth ones.
Image

And then the filters.
Image

Fuel rail...
Image

Then I started to check the valve clearances...but quickly realised that Tony Knight had set them up on the bench already...sweet!
Image

New plugs...I find that NGK BP6ES-11s work best. BP7ES seem to get a little more top end, but don't seem to idle so good.
Image

Then we set up the carbs. One common thing I hear when people see the engine bay, is a comment about how the Webers must be so hard to keep in tune. But to be honest, it's really quite easy. Now that I'm reassembling everything, I decided to give the carbs some TLC. First step is to measure the carb linkages, to ensure that they are all the same length, and they were...after all, why should they mysteriously get longer or shorter over the years :)
Image

Then I set the idle speed this way. Under these brass plugs are the progression ports.
Image

The progression ports are these holes, which give a slug of fuel when you crack open the throttle. You should set up the throttle, so that at idle, the edge of the throttle flap just about covers the topmost hole. Mine seem to idle best when the throttle flap covers the top 2/3s of the top progression hole. It's very important that you get this the same on every carb, because when they're off, you don't get that nice, crisp response when you gun it off idle. I used to sync my carbs by using devices that you stick into the airhorn while the car is running, to measure airflow, but I find that this is much more accurate. And easy, too :)
Image

By the way, to adjust the throttle flap, you tweak this throttle stop screw on the side of the carb.
Image

Next parameter are the idle mixture screws. I know from tuning with the wideband sensor, that the idle is best when these are screwed out 7/8ths of a turn from closed. But as you can see, it's very easy in my case to see that they are in adjustment, because the flats on the idle screws are both at the 9-3 o'clock position. You can easily verify that they are still properly adjusted everytime you open the bonnet, and they never seem to go out of adjustment by themselves (as I said before...why would they :) )
Image

Now that the carbs are all "zeroed", you have to follow suit with the throttle arms. First I hook up one of the carbs to the throttle arm on the jackshaft, and I loosen the remaining two throttle arms.
Image

Refit the linkages, and tighten the remaining two throttle arms, while you are taking up the slack with your other hand. And that's it, I find that after you set up the carbs and linkages on the bench like this, it isn't necessary to do any further tweaking once the car is running. I run these basic checks every time I do an oil change, but generally you don't need to adjust anything.
Image


The last thing, is to fill the radiator with plain, distilled water. As Tony Knight recommended, maybe coolant isn't such a great idea until the head gasket breaks in. I'll swap over to proper coolant after the engine's had a few hundred km under its belt.
Image

And she's alive! :)
http://youtu.be/PsvlrJYTmGM

I only had time to take her for a short drive around the block, but she feels great, and everything is back as it should be. Fingers crossed it stays that way...

Image

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 11:54 am 

Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:50 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Townsville
kev wrote:
Ok you asked for it... :)


And it was so totally worth the wait.
:tu:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 4:22 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:57 am
Posts: 253
Location: The Hills, OR
Good work. Time for more power??

-Robert

_________________
Image

My Build/Pic thread


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 5:13 pm 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Komeuppance wrote:
Good work. Time for more power??

-Robert

No, don't wanna break it again :)

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 1:40 pm 

Joined: Fri May 13, 2011 4:47 pm
Posts: 69
Location: Queensland Australia
hey kev
you know how you found that rust in the floor, not nocking jdm restos but,do you think you will ever strip the shell to bare and fix anything that might be there, or will you just play the waiting game on any hidden issues that are not here yet?
dchil15

_________________
Dchil
Car(s): 1990 Nissan N13 Pulsar Q's - http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25037

"Never assume you know what you're doing. Because you're doing it wrong."


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2011 8:13 pm 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
dchil15 wrote:
hey kev
you know how you found that rust in the floor, not nocking jdm restos but,do you think you will ever strip the shell to bare and fix anything that might be there, or will you just play the waiting game on any hidden issues that are not here yet?
dchil15

Hoo-boy, well that would be opening up a can of worms :) Once you strip everything naked and blast the shell to bare metal, that's when the bills just never stop coming :lol:

My attitude at the moment is that I've had the car for three and a half years, and the Japanese repaint was done in 2005. While there are parts of the bodywork I'd like to re-do, nothing is really "in trouble" and the body is pretty much as it was when I first got it, so it's not like there's any ticking time-bomb in there somewhere.

There's a few spots I would like to do, for example the front apron is new, and looks like it was replaced at some point in Japan when the car had a minor front end accident. The rails are fine, but the box section behind the apron could do with some sections cut out and replaced. Also there's some spots on the boot floor and spare wheel well which should be cut out, but at the moment everything's holding steady with rustproofer and wax, so it can wait until I buy a welder and all the bodywork stuff to learn how to do it myself.

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 6:49 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Well here's what the brakes look like. I'd thought that the Hako came with the same brakes as the 240Z, but it seems that while the caliper might be similar, the disc is 250mm instead of 270mm.

After Wakefield the pedal was very long and there wasn't much braking power, even after I'd bled the fluid at the track. The pads must have been pretty cooked, so it seemed a good idea to replace them.
Image

This is part of the problem :lol: the disc may be small, but the pads are tiny :D
Image

But changing pads in the Hako is pretty much a 5 minute job, you just pull our these pins...
Image

And the old pads just slide out. I then use the old pads to lever/push the caliper pistons back.
Image

New pads just slot in and you're good to go.
Image

I find that when pads get really overheated, they kinda go into a concave shape, so I'd sanded back the old pad to a semblance of a flat shape and also filed an angle into the edges of the pad (you'll notice the new pad comes with them). I find that if brakes feel a little secondhand after a trackday, this (along with a fluid bleed) brings them right back again. But not this time, the pad material was actually a little crumbly.
Image

New pads refitted, the brakes feel great again. Well, they'll do for street use until we come up with some sort of disc/caliper upgrade.

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 8:03 am 
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:13 pm
Posts: 383
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
whoo hooo the hako is back in action! glad everything came together and ran the first time! :tu:

_________________
'71 S30 - '90 S13x2 - '01 Grocery Getter AKA IS300 - '02 954RR


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 7:14 am 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2011/05/18/hot-wheels-x-jnc-hakosuka-nissan-skyline/

I didn't expect to see our magazine logo on the door! Consider me blown away...

Image

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 6:00 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:23 pm
Posts: 297
Location: Napa Ca
The brake calipers look a lot like the ATE ones on my Alfa. That said, the pads on the Alfa are almost twice the size of the ones on the Roadster and the roadster still stops better. Its got bigger rotors but much smaller pads. I guess with the smaller pads more force is applied to a smaller area giving more bite? I managed to get about 1000 street miles and one autoX before I did the Laguna Seca race on the first of the month on my KFP Gold pads. I raced hard all weekend and still have brakes, but the pedal is a little on the long side. Its ok for the street and will likely be the same way for my next autoX.

I've heard Endless makes good pads, but I've never used any of them. The pad compound seems to be more important than the size of the pad its self. Carbon/Kevlar compounds seem to work pretty well and not chew up rotors either.

Will

_________________
1969 Datsun 2000 (track car, driven daily)
1959 Alfa Romeo 101.02 Sprint (big project)
1969 Alfa Romeo 105.51 GTV (R.I.P)
'87 BMW M3


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: JNC Project Hakosuka Build Thread
PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 6:25 pm 
Moderator

Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:51 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Sydney, Australia
Endless pads are great, but the only compound they offer for the stock C10 calipers are the "street" compound. Work and feel great for daily use (and importantly they almost emit zero dust) but I think the heat buildup is just too much on the track.

_________________
datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post a new topicPost a reply Page 63 of 81   [ 1608 posts ]
Go to page Previous  1 ... 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66 ... 81  Next


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group
610nm Style by Daniel St. Jules of Gamexe.net