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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
there has been progress! (while not tinkering with my Rover).

headliner is currently in my lounge room drying after I gave it a wash over the weekend. I just have to fix a small tear in it and then it should be good to go back in.

I've just bought two 5spd gearboxes off a fellow forum member - they are a future side project.

Headliner in and maaaybe take the windscreen out and rust proof it and then it's rego time.

The Ewok loves going for a car ride so yeah, why the hell not! :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2009 3:14 am
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Location: LaPine, or
i just noticed something, why is the firing order part of the valve cover casting?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 6:15 pm 
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Location: Arlington, TX, USA
bonvo wrote:
i just noticed something, why is the firing order part of the valve cover casting?


So it's always there? Tons of cars had this "feature", just not any Datsuns. :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 6:20 pm 
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datsunfreak wrote:
bonvo wrote:
i just noticed something, why is the firing order part of the valve cover casting?


So it's always there? Tons of cars had this "feature", just not any Datsuns. :P


correctamundo!

It's on thousands of cars, sometimes as a sticker or cast onto the intake manifold on many a V8.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 6:34 pm 
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If I was running a painted rocker cover, I would have been tempted to grind it off before painting. :mrgreen:

It's not like it's hard to remember. 1-3-4-2 is the firing order of dang near every 4cyl ever made. :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 3:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I kinda like it to be honest, it reminds me of an era that's gone and the days when you opened the bonnet and saw an engine, not acres of plastic.

Anyhoo BIG NEWS.

- headliner is in
- rear plastic trim is in
- final bit of carpet in the back is done
- interior lights are in

to finish asap:

- tidy up headliner around the roof scoop and pretty up the nuts and bolts
- get the accessories socket wired up and working
- get the upright part of the rear seat fitted (this caused a massive headache last year so Aaron, I'll be coming with you to the farm to look at the parts wagon at some stage!)
- paint the bonnet
- get my vinyl wrap printed for the sunvisor
- adjust valve gear on the motor (its a bit tappity)
- mp3 player in the glovebox
- speakers under the dashboard

I'm feeling very relieved that I can finally see the finish line. I really want to tidy up the headlining around the back windows as it was a bit tricky without taking out the side windows and I'm not really happy with the finish, but it's looking really good.

Good timing too as my daily Mitsubishi Pajero needs some major tlc as does the Rover so it looks like the wagon will get pressed into daily duties as soon as I get it registered.

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 Post subject: progress
PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:10 pm 
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Headliner is in

Image

Image

Trim panels are in

Image

To do:

fix the roof vent

Image

I've got a few ideas for a neat trim peice that will go inside the cabin, basically it will be an aluminum square that will hold the roof vent and headliner in place.

finish tidying up the wiring under the dash - I've run the rear speaker wiring to the firewall now and the accessories wiring as well.

back seat has to go in as well

finish off the trim install - I need more trim clips. That's a quick job.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:01 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I ran out of time over the weekend but I did manage to get the roof vent bracket done.

Image

I started off with some aluminum sheet, then guillotined it down to the right size, then used a dremel and a jigsaw to cut out the inside square.

Image

Lots of filing away to take off the last few mm of metal.

Image

I used a small file to take away the ridge so that the pop rivet on the side of the vent would slide past.

Image

Image

Image

Tested it for fit a few times until I was happy.

Image

Fitted up. I just have to dremel off the last few mm off each allan head bolt. I also have a bit of an idea to tidy up the bracket. It doesn't look too bad but I still wish the previous owner hadn't put the vent in. Such a unnecessary hassle.


I also painted up the jack bracket, now it just shows how the jack needs some tlc:

Image

I also had a cool old 70's cigarette socket powered torch but it doesn't fit in the "pantry" on the passenger side so I threw in a decent waterproof torch. I need to find a wheel brace as well as this car doesn't have one.

Image

I'm working out where to put the front speakers at the moment. I've also decided that I'll use an inline fuse for the cigarette lighter socket in the load area, that'll save me working out where to put the fuse box that I bought.

I've also decided that I'm going to pull the front windscreen out and POR15 the frame as it is looking a bit rusty. I'll do that after I get back from Tasmania next week.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Those bloody Dremels, Im up to my 4th one (yes really). Ive had 2 replaced under warranty, The 2 new ones are starting to play up, first the speed control goes only giving you high speed.... then eventually (months later) smoke bellows out of the casing and it dies. They have replaced the copper field, switch circuit but I believe the actual armature winding shorts out because they always fail shortly after and I get another warranty claim. I dont know what kills them, maybe the extended use because I never load up the motor since the first one died.

Once I run out of warranty claims (or I get sick of getting them fixed) I'll replace them with an air tool. They normally die within a 6 month period, I think the fake cheapies would last longer. Dremel (Bosch owned) are so confident in the product they give a 5yr warranty. The 300 series obviously has a design flaw for this to keep happening.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:24 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Interesting that you should raise that, the one I have been using lately is from a engineering workshop here at work, it gets so hot in my hand - in a short space of time - that I've almost had my skin burnt. Yet my girlfriend's one, which is newer and doesn't see much use, is great to use.

I've also noticed that some genuine dremel cutting bits are rubbish, while others seem to last a lot longer, yet they come in the same packet etc.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:06 pm 

Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:40 pm
Posts: 46
Location: Melbourne
I have a good idea for you:

Don't cut back the bolt heads. You will need them if this idea is to work.

Using the template you made, transfer that to a block of 25mm MDF. With a router, cut the outside on a lazy angle so there is a nice taper. Drill the holes blind (ie: not all the way through) except for 4 of them which you should back drill in a slight oversize and counter-sink.

Then, using some rivnuts (or nutserts) you can neatly and cleanly pick up the threads.

As for covering its ladies choice but i'd be going for a light/thin foam and a bit of black velour.

You'll have a nice neat and relatively factory looking bezel around the vent with no bolt threads hanging down. Soft to the touch, unlikely to bang your head on it too.

<i>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:48 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
too late, already dremel'led some of them. maybe. :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 413
Location: Adelaide
Coming along well mate. Bet you will be glad to finish of all the last bits and pieces!!

Your attention to detail on all the little bits has been great! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Heya Benn

surprisingly (well not really), the last few things have taken a while to finish. I've got to get my motorcycle sorted as that's my daily, after that I want to get the windscreen and frame squared away (rustproofed) and then I should be able to get a roadworthy cert for it. (though the brakes need fixing).

I did notice that the water pump is squeaking though... it never ends! :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 18, 2010 3:32 am
Posts: 93
Location: Ipswich, QLD Australia
Hey Geoff when you did your front end steering did you remove the pitman arm from the steering box? I can't seem to knock it off :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 4:23 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hey Kurt

No, I took the steering box off the green car to paint and rust proof the chassis rail, but that was it. The steering box was one of those things where I thought about getting it rebuilt or modified but realised that I would be getting way in over my head (cost, time etc).

Are you getting one of the 1300 ones rebuilt?

In other news, I have been looking for the assorted clips to go in around the windscreen so that the stainless steel trim pieces clip in. That and the headache of buying a house/sorting out other things has slowed progress.

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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 5:03 pm 
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Location: Ipswich, QLD Australia
I really just wanted to replace the pitman arm and the four tie rod ends while at the same time cleaning up the tie rods and drag link. I think I'll leave the pitman arm for the meantime as it seems to be in good condition.

I bought a ball joint seperator but what about putting them back together... did you have to take them somewhere to use a press?

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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
Eeyore wrote:
... did you have to take them somewhere to use a press?



The big nut will; easily squeeze them back together once they are cleaned up nice. Ive done it before without any problems. The spine is normally slotted so make sure you fit it right before doing up the nut.


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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 7:50 pm 
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Location: Ipswich, QLD Australia
Are you talking about the big nut on the end of the steering box to pitman arm spline? What about the ball joint pins on the tie rods? Will they have to be pressed back into the drag link?

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 Post subject: Re: 1974 RX-4 wagon clone.
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 602
Location: Australia
The nut at the end of the steering box is slotted. All the steering nuts, tie rods, steer box pitman nuts etc can be put back together by tightening the nuts. Just make sure everything is greased and lined up nicely before hand and they'll slip on no problems with the pressure of the nut being tightened.


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