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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:49 pm 

Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 4:07 am
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Location: South Australia
Thats a damn good price. When I was looking for one of these, it was going to cost much more then 25K to land a clean one like this, it seems someone will get a bargain.

In Western countries I predict there will be a 'Kev Tax' on these in the same way the AE86 have a 'tofu tax' :wink: :tu:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:14 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:14 pm 

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You couldn't build something like the one above for 25K.

What are you thinking of doing with the bead roller Babs?

I used the guillotine at work today, nothing like having tools and machinery to do all those little jobs at your fingertips!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:14 pm 
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ewokracing wrote:
What are you thinking of doing with the bead roller Babs?


Dunno yet!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 6:24 am
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Location: Misawa Japan
Hey Kev, where did you order the fittings and lines for the clutch work? i wouldn't mind eventually replacing all of my hardlines and re-routing them.

brake lines and clutch lines included.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:59 pm 
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wookieballa wrote:
Hey Kev, where did you order the fittings and lines for the clutch work? i wouldn't mind eventually replacing all of my hardlines and re-routing them.

brake lines and clutch lines included.

I just ordered them from a regular neighborhood parts store. What you want is 3/16ths or 4.7mm bundy tube (comes in a reel, like fencewire) but 10mm metric tube nuts.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:06 pm 

Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 3:18 pm
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Location: fontana, CA
nice work on making those lines. i know how much of a PITA they can be to make the flares.

keep up the great work on this. i love reading all the work that goes into this.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:09 am 
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nice work and pictures for the clutch hard line! i have a new master and slave in the box just waiting for me to change...and i believe my hard line nut is stripped from the PO as well...i might have to invest in the same shiny tools you got haha

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:28 am 
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Since forever, I've had one of these little filters acting as a cam cover breather. Every now and then I have to give that section of the cam cover a bit of a wipe to get rid of the oil mist, but it works ok. But I'm entered into a supersprint in a few weeks, and given that's a sanctioned event, the scrutineers might insist on a catch can.
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On the stock Hako, there's a tube going to the stock airbox, but the K&N filters I have on the Webers don't have any facility for a breather hose. And a recent very kind gift from a good mate got me thinking. It's an old Greddy breather can, and if it looks different to the cylindrical sheetmetal ones, it's because about 10yrs ago, Greddy used to make them out of billet, so it's a pretty nice little bit of gear.
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But the problem is, the outlet on the cam cover is huge, and the resulting hose I'd need to plumb in the catch can looked pretty unsightly.
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Then one day I was browsing the hybridz.org forum, and noticed that a fellow aussie forum member there, RB30X offered some nifty cam cover attachments for sale. The cam cover has a strange thread, but RB30X found an industrial fitting that had the same thread, and then welded on a standard AN fitting. So you could then attach a bit of braided hose, with a pretty red/blue -8AN motorsport fitting. But recently making up new hardlines for the clutch master cylinder was fun, so that got me into thinking about maybe making up a solution with hardline...
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So I get some 1/2in copper tubing from the hardware store, plus a 1/2in spring mandrel to bend it with. The little handheld tubing bender we used for the clutch lines isn't big enough to handle 1/2in tube. What you do, is you insert the spring into the tube, then bend it by hand, and the spring prevents the tube from kinking.
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First things first, I have to remove the stock breather tube, which is held in place very tightly with some sealer, which has gone hard over the years.
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But eventually it's out...it may look bigger than the new fitting, but the stock tube has an inner diameter of 12mm, and the new one is 11, so that's pretty close I think.
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At first I thought it would look nice like this. The copper line would run along the top of the cam cover, and it would be parallel to the copper hardline I already have for the brake booster line.
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This is now the AN fitting works. AN stands for Army/Navy, and is a mil-spec standard that was developed in WW2, but since then has been adopted as pretty much the gold standard for motorsport applications. It's what is inside those pretty blue and red fittings you see on race cars. First you flare the end of the tube, but unlike the brake tube, where we had to do this complicated double flare, this is just a single flare, like a trumpet in profile.
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The flared tube then butts up against the male AN fitting, and when you tighten it up, that sleeve you see will compress the tube end against the AN male, and you get a nice super-tight seal. I should point out that the brake flaring tool I used flares the tube at a 45 degree angle, whereas AN really requires a 37 degree angle. So if say we were making a high pressure fuel connection, it would probably leak. But since this is just to carry low-pressure air, I reckon we're ok.
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But then I realised that the end of the tube closest to the firewall is unsupported, there isn't anywhere on the cam cover where I can attach a bracket to hold the tube still while the engine vibrates. I think what will happen is that the tube will wobble about and stress the joint at the fitting. So that ain't gonna work.
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The alternative was a fair bit more complex....what I quickly discovered was that making one bend in the middle of a tube is pretty easy. Just insert the mandrel, then use something like a socket, mounted in a vice to make your radius.
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But if you want to make a more complex shape, then it's almost impossible to bend the stiff tube by hand, and you have to get creative.
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Just the same, it was impossible to get the bends tight enough, so I needed to make a little bracket
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So the tube can sit alongside the brake booster tube. The plan was for it to sit above the booster tube, but I just couldn't get the bends tight enough to sit closer to the cam cover. If I used a smaller socket to get a tighter radius bend, it would get a nasty kink in it (notwithstanding the mandrel spring inside) so this was about the best I could do.
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Then we assemble the Greddy catch can, which has a nifty little tube so that you can see the oil level. The fittings are industrial brass compression fittings that I got from Pirtek, which as you will see work a little differently to the AN fitting.
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This kind of fitting doesn't require the tube to be flared, you just insert the tube into the fitting, and when you tighten it, that "olive" that you see in the middle will compress into the tapered ends of the fitting, which will then crush down onto the tube and form a nice seal. It isn't quite as strong as the AN-style of fitting, but will do for our purposes.
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Then we drill a hole into one of the filter covers. I'll insert a 90 degree fitting, which will be held in place by that brass nut you see there...
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...and if you're thinking that we really, really don't want that nut to come undone and fly into the engine, then we're on the same page :)
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So I drill a 2mm hole into the nut and fitting, and then insert a splitpin. Hopefully this means it stays together forevermore.
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This is what it'll look like, the fitting only protrudes inside the filter a little bit
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And I attach some flexible oil-safe hose.
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Do up the brass compression fittings...
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And we're done!
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Very possibly the stupidest, most overcomplicated breather can arrangement ever :lol:
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But it looks appropriately vintage I suppose. Bending the tubes was a reall pain in the arse (you should see the mountain of dead tubes under the bench) so I'm not sure if I'd ever do it like this again :)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:28 am 

Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:26 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Croydon
Very cool - yes it's an impressive amount of work for a relatively minor function, but this sort of detailing really makes your car special. The way the shiny copper tube curves in three dimensions down the side of the cam cover looks fantastic, worthy of a Bugatti :)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:46 pm 
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samoht wrote:
Very cool - yes it's an impressive amount of work for a relatively minor function, but this sort of detailing really makes your car special. The way the shiny copper tube curves in three dimensions down the side of the cam cover looks fantastic, worthy of a Bugatti :)


Well that part I like :) At the moment I'm having second thoughts about the coper tube that goes around the edge of the engine bay tho, seems like overdoing it a touch :)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:04 pm 

Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:50 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Townsville
Looks good kev. Very historic looking with the copper tube. And you even plumbed your vapor back in to your air cleaner, not like those ricer punks that drop it straight to atmosphere.

You should have told me what your plans were with the rocker fitting as rather than go from rocker thread to AN fitting to AN fitting to brass tube, I also have a 90 degree stainless steel fitting that goes straight from rocker thread to 1/2 tube that clamps down on the olive like your brass ones on the catch can. Oh well, hit me up if you ever want to change it I'll send you one for free. Most people want to change to the racer style speedflow fittings for their rocker breather hose, hence why I make the rocker thread to AN fitting. 

Cheers
Tim


Last edited by RB30X on Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:55 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
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Location: Australia
I hate to ask obvious questions but why didnt you plump it back into the carb intake manifold thats how Mazda factory do it and Im sure other manufacturers do the same. The only extra thing I'd do is have the copper pipes plated a more factory colour by cad plating them, but thats personal taste...Nice work as always !

Before you know it, I'll be watching you fit a OS Gilken twin cam head, look forward to that one, you just dont know you'll be doing it yet... give it enough time :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:24 pm 
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gypsy wrote:
I hate to ask obvious questions but why didnt you plump it back into the carb intake manifold thats how Mazda factory do it and Im sure other manufacturers do the same. The only extra thing I'd do is have the copper pipes plated a more factory colour by cad plating them, but thats personal taste...Nice work as always !

My thoughts were that if I plumbed it into the manifold (like a brake booster) the vacuum signal would be too strong. I could be mistaken, but I think cars which have the PCV going straight into the inlet manifold have a restrictor or valve in them somewhere, so that it doesn't suck too hard on the breather pipe and possibly draw oil out. Plain vents usually go straight to the air filter box (as far as I know).

gypsy wrote:
Before you know it, I'll be watching you fit a OS Gilken twin cam head, look forward to that one, you just dont know you'll be doing it yet... give it enough time :lol:

Good god, one of those would be worth more than the whole car!

RB30X wrote:
You should have told me what your plans were with the rocker fitting as rather than go from rocker thread to AN fitting to AN fitting to brass tube, I also have a 90 degree stainless steel fitting that goes straight from rocker thread to 1/2 tube that clamps down on the olive like your brass ones on the catch can.

When I ordered the fitting from you, I was planning to just run a braided line. The silly copper pipe idea came later :)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:41 am 
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Alright...take 2...

Now that I've had a day to get used to it, I think while there are sections that I like (the bit on the cam cover is nice), the section from the catch can to the airfilter wasn't such a great idea. I'd bought some aluminium tube today to see if I can make something up that blends in with the silver paint of the engine bay, but it turns out that I suck at buying ally tube: it was 12mm instead of half-inch and so the spring mandrel didn't fit, and also it seems to be a sort of extruded tube which is really hard and impossible to bend by hand.

So I decided to have another go using what I had on hand. First thing was to move the 90 degree brass fitting to the firewall side of the catch can. This means that the tube coming off it can be straight and not do that big looping turn that everyone seems to dislike. Then I removed the short copper tube coming off the inlet side of the catch can, and just ran a longer flexible hose to a regular barbed fitting.
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A new copper tube comes off the firewall side of the catch can, and instead of going around the top edge of the engine bay like before, tucks down below the catch can...
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...and then points forwards. I've rotated the fitting on the air filter to point the hose towards it.
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And with the windscreen bag in place, most of it is hidden away.
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I'll give myself a few days to get used to it, but I think this is much better: it's a lot simpler-looking and less showy.
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I think with the longer flexible hose at the cam cover end, it looks less fussy too. I'm getting used to it.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:10 am 
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It looks fantastic! TBH, I'm not feeling the blue tint of that flexible hose, but the brass and overall quality of workmanship is top-notch. :tu:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:28 am 
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Agree with camshaft its beautiful one 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:11 pm 

Joined: Sun May 11, 2008 12:15 am
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Location: Melbourne Australia
The flexible hose you have used always makes me think of garden hose... black hose would be more factory and less intrusive

Love the craftsmanship of the rest of it though :)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:32 pm 

Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:50 pm
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silverra23 wrote:
The flexible hose you have used always makes me think of garden hose... black hose would be more factory and less intrusive:)


That's exactly what is not perfect about the current set up. You've nailed it.
Replace the blue hose with black 1/2" heater hose or something Kev on take 3 and you're on a winner. I experienced a similar dilemma when I used blue push on hose with my speedflow fittings, it didn't really suit the engine bay but when I changed to black hose, it was poetry.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 3:56 pm 
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Haha...everyone hates the clear hose, which, for the record, is "oil-safe/food-grade" flexible hose from Clark Rubber :)

Anyway, I got to thinking about what would have been used for a breather hose on a 60's race car. So I had a quick look at some vintage Skyline racing pics and I'm reasonably certain that what would have been used would have been something like this. Cloth braided hose.
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Looks like it's available for breather hoses and brake booster hose applications, so its gotta be oil-safe:
http://www.evwparts.com/vwparts/ThingTune/HOSE12.html

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