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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:42 am
Posts: 321
Location: Australia
When the steering wheel is turned left, the new one hits the castle nut which holds the steering arm on.

Right about here. The new one doesnt have the same "offset" as the old one
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Part number is TE-515R, which is the same number in their book as rwd 626's. I asked if they had different brands and he said "sort of"

I'm also pretty sure I put the old ones on backwards when I put them back together .. Steering wheel is off centre by about 50 degrees

Yesterday I pulled off the wood veneer on the dash... Did look pretty crap in person. Surprisingly behind the veneer is nice textured plastic. Now it looks a bit less tacky and a bit more "sporty"
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Finally found today that the 323's were avaliable with 5 inch wide stockies, so not going to have any trouble getting the alloys through rego. (In NSW we can increase the width by 1 inch without needing engineer approval).

I'm also now on the hunt for some fender/guard mirrors.
JDM spec had these style, which is the same as the RX-3's, which mean they are damn expensive.
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I'm also planning on some foggies like this yellow one
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:21 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm
Posts: 77
Location: NZ
Nice job with the dash, I like the mirrors not so keen on the foggies but hey my opinion :lol:

I thought I had found me one of these 323 wagons cheap but its just a shell with no engine or gearbox :cry:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:49 am 
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Location: Australia
I'd be a bit more hesitant of buying a 323 over there in NZ. They all seem to get a pretty tough life! Mine had a nice easy life with 2 previous lady owners and paperwork going back till the first check up service and original sales reciept.

Doing little bits here and there today. I was looking at the lines on the crankshaft pulley to make sure I'd set the timing correctly. Turned the engine over by hand and noticed I could hear the compression leaking out of the spark plug side of the engine. Two of them were loose... Doh. Explains why it had been idling inconsistantly. Also made up a new carby/intake gasket and it runs alot smoother now, it had been leaking there before.
It's now parked out the back with the radiator gone for repair to fix a little leak. It looked so nice out in the sun I needed a pic

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I'm still not sure on whether I like the Mazda hub centres on or not. If I keep them on I'll get some new stickers made up, Momo ones or Mazda ones.
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These mirrors are $40 delivered from the 'bay. Tempting.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:40 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I love the accessory brochures from "back in the day". I see the 323 had a lot of similar options and accessories to the 1300 that preceeded it. (ie the bonnet mounted rain spoiler, the side stripes etc).

I kinda like the fake wood veneer though. Keep the Mazda centre wheel caps or just peel the Mazda stickers off. :)

I vote no for those mirrors, the round plastic ones in the first shot look a lot better (though they are a pricey item!)

tie rods - just by looking at the two tie rods in the pictures, they are different parts. Look at the angle difference between the two (ie where the end threads onto the "tie rod" itself).

Using my secret squirrel powers, I've also come across GLC/323 listings for tie rods with "except station wagon" and "station wagon".

what year is yours again?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:01 am 
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Location: Australia
I've got a few photos of scans from the 323 owners thread on ausrotary. Wish I had some of those options because they would look soooo cool today.

The wood veneer was all peeling off and craked up. Looks alot better now in person, I swear. I can always stick some tacky wood veneer or metal finish film on there.

They have nice round mirrors on ebay listed for TA22 Celicas but they were $250+ , which is a bit more than I would like to spend
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Secret squirrel powers eh? Mine is 1978 built. Currently waiting on the tie rod ends and the radiator is being fixed tomorrow


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:37 pm 
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^ I think they are the ones that jdmrx2 has for his RX-2, he bought them new from Toyota Australia. maybe shoot him a PM?

He'd also be able to help you out with tie rod ends.

I checked for a 1978 year and it listed:

ACDELCO: OEM part number 88910101. AC Delco number #45A0267

that's the inner rod end. Also suits:
MAZDA 626 (1980 - 1982)
MAZDA GLC (1977 - 1985)
MAZDA RX-7 (1979 - 1985)

There wasn't an AC Delco outer one listed, so going by TRW

OEM part number: 8531-99-3240. TRW part number #ES2133L
also suits:
MAZDA 626 (1979 - 1982)
MAZDA GLC (1977 - 1983)


BUT

If you skip ahead to 1981, there are different part numbers for hatchbacks and wagons.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:53 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm
Posts: 77
Location: NZ
The round ones look better and I like the Caps but without looks good too no with them. Hmmmm

These are only $55USD but dont look as good,
http://cgi.ebay.com/TOYOTA-CELICA-TA22- ... 483edd8ca1

These ones look better and cheaper http://cgi.ebay.com/MAZDA-ROTARY-R100-R ... 483a56be6d


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:43 am 
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Location: Australia
Yeah those were listed as NOS Toyota, jdmrx2 got his from a TE27 and were $300 delivered back when he got his. At this stage I'm thinking a cheaper set and if I fall in love with the look and the car, possibly I might go for the really nice ones. (Both front guards have dodgy paint so I'm not worried about them)

The reason they are different after 81 is the hatchback was replaced by the fwd model. Lady at Autobarn did some investigating and found the TE568R or CE5026 or OEM # 8173-99-322 from one of the 626 rwd is avaliable which looks like this, which should give the clearance.
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It is 25 mm longer then the original ones, but that shouldnt be a problem, there is enough to play with on the tie rod.

I kept the outers I bought the first time as they were the same as the originals.

Saw those fender mirrors as well on US ebay. Think they might be the ones I go for. They look similar to ones on the JDM 323. 3 day paypal transfer sucks, but limits impulse buying I guess!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Ah, I wondered what year was the changeover to FWD, I thought it was a little later than 1981.

Those chrome bullet mirrors are pretty cheap and easy to come past. Usually they are plastic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:29 pm 
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ewokracing wrote:
Ah, I wondered what year was the changeover to FWD, I thought it was a little later than 1981...


Pretty sure it was 1980 here, and I think worldwide also, for hatchback models.

But the RWD wagon soldiered on (in some markets) alone until 1986. :tu:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:01 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm
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Location: NZ
Kept going in Wagon form until 98 in Thailand didnt it?

I think here the hatch changed in 82 and the Super cool sedan came along.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:19 am 
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Location: Australia
Changeover year was 80, and there are models of both from that year, so FWD was in full swing by 81. They stayed on in Indonesia for years, and had several facelifts, and renamed the Vantrend and Baby Boomer. The wagon was replaced in most markets by the Ford Laser/323 fwd one late 80's.

I'm not a fan of those low mounted ones, at least not for this car.

Also my radiator is done, just need to get away from work early enough to pick it up! Bit busy this week..


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:40 am 
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Location: Australia
Picked up the radiator today. They patched up the leak and did a pressure test and I got a new cap. He also sprayed the top black over where the patch was, so I ended up doing the rest so it didnt look funny. Now the shrouding looks crap so I might have to paint that too... But now no leaks at all! Very happy :D

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Ordered the TE568R tie rods today, and they'll turn up next week sometime. Really hoping that they will fit.

And today I found what my rims are called! They are Momo Altair's. Apparently also made for Alfas..
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:53 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm
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Location: NZ
Ahh very nice now I know what to search for if I want those rims :D

They are very similar to the SSR Reverse Mesh as well, My kinda wheels!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:42 am
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Location: Australia
It would probably be easier to find a set of SSR's in the right pcd than another set of these! Only seen one other set in mazda fitment and they were asking about 4x what I paid for these... As mentioned before they are anear identical copy of BBS Mahle rims, and SSR was known to get inspiration from BBS back in the day.

These are no comparison to SSR's , wish I could afford a set but SSR's would cost more than the rest of the car!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:25 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:26 pm
Posts: 77
Location: NZ
Yeah SSRs are about $600 for a good set here, but I have seen some similar to yous(factory black and silver lip chrome ones) for about $150 but they dissipated long ago.

On the other hand I just got a nice Nardi Classic for $60! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:18 am 
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Location: Australia
Its a good idea to get bits and peices like that when they come up cheap. It is so much harder to find something when you do need it and normally its more than you want to pay!

Did a trip to the wreckers today. Up around the 40 degree (celsius) mark, so maybe not the best way to spend the day! Did pick up a bit of stuff for not much money, and got down the beach later so overall it was pretty nice.

Item 1: Old school roof rack. Genuine VW style from a 70's Passat wagon. I need some kind of racks for my windsurfing gear, as it is too long to fit inside (the shiny long bag and yellow bag above the roof ~2.6m)
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Not sure if they suit the car. May consider painting them black to look less hearse-like??
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Item 2: 12 Longer wheel studs from a BMW (rest were stuck). Same thread size but a smaller hex head. I like the fact the hex doesnt go the whole length, so the socket doesnt scrape on the rims when removing the studs. Also needed to check the length is right because I just ordered a new set this size.
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Item 3: Chrome strips for the top of the front doors. My spare door didnt have one.
Item 4: I picked up some more chrome dress rims and centre caps

For $30 I did ok, normally it can be a bit steep there.

Following on from a discussion of rear speakers, behold the basicness in the 323 trim. That yellow tape was holding the rear window washer bottle together... Need another one of them.
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This side looks easier to fit something
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But has all the pipes and crap for the fuel tank behind it, no factory wiring for speakers.
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Finished putting the radiator and shrouding back in. I ended up doing a few quick coats on the shroud so it didnt look so crap next to the shiny radiator. I adjusted the timing too, as it was a little bit out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:32 pm 
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I'd take the little trim panels over the 929's big trim panels any day! My heart is in my mouth any time I have to move them as they flex everywhere and feel so fragile.

Holden Gemini's also have long wheel studs. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:42 am 
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Location: Australia
Never thought of gemini's. Dont think there are any down at the wreckers here

Joined the 21st century with an ebay purchase
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Stock left, BMW middle and new ones right
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Looks much better with chrome bolts now! (wheels are dirty from being outside)
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Tie rod end saga has ended with the new ones that came in. They fit on and clear the steering link arm. Issue now is the old outer tie rod ends are stuck on the tie rod. Might get some new ones?
Compared to the stock ones
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:40 pm 
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with the old tie rod ends (the outer ones):

buy some really good penetrating spray (like penetrene or similar, better than WD40) and give them a really good soaking repeatedly.

Don't forget that one nut I think is left handed/French or whatever it is, it goes on backwards.

They'll come off, you just have to be cunning. I had to resort to a big ring spanner and a hollow bar from memory.

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