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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:14 pm 
Mild Cam
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 1677
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Those emblems turned out really nice! :tu:

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-Cam
1980 Toyota Celica
1984 Porsche 911
1988 Mazda RX-7
Ex-JNCs: 1980 Datsun 510, 1979 Mazda RX-7, 1986 Mazda RX-7, 1992 Mazda Miata
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:23 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:59 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Melbourne, Australia
1. Although I like coupes, I've always liked the capella sedan shape.
2. I like this project! I love that light blue colour too. Pity we never got it here in Australia.
3. You should join Ausrotary and chat to a guy called Bumpstart. He has an imported "Seth African" Capella and he found that it had a few differences from Aussie models sold here (in terms of suspension stuff etc)
4. Myself and another user on here, Aaron Hogan, have often wondered how a Capella would go with the later MA 2 litre engine and a 5spd box out of a 626. A friend of ours had this setup in a 808 sedan and it was a screamer! It surprised a lot of other drivers and unlike a rotary, literally used no fuel. It was great!

Good luck with the project, I'm looking forward to more updates.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:03 pm 
JNC Fanatic
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:40 am
Posts: 902
Location: Villeneuve, Qld, Australia
love your work, body is coming up nicely.

Got me a little stumped on those two piece's. I've owned nearly 60 Capella's through the years and haven't seen them. I'll try and dig up some of my manuals and see if I can find an answer. Some of the very early NA's had 2 piece lock plates near the front of the camshaft but they look different to what I've seen.

Ewok they go great with the MA. Done many a conversion. I worked a MA and turbo'ed it, rocket ship, ran 12 flat. A good friend just finished a Turbo MA running on straight LPG. We just trying to sort the four speed auto out, hammered with the three speed.

Not sure about ausrotary though with the moron factor on there!! We don't want to put him through the pain!!

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:13 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:49 am
Posts: 7
Location: RSA
The car is coming along nicely and the motor looks very good! :tu: :tu: :tu:

When will it be running? Hopefully soon!

BlueRocket wrote:
Do anyone maybe have any idea where these might fit?


My guess would be either inside the timing cover behind the crank pully or somewhere around the cam.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:37 am 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
Hopefully it will be running soon!

The body is almost done, then i can start building the car again.

Got the cylinder head back today. Reconditioned and ported a little bit. The final compression ratio after block and head was skimmed came out to 10:1 witch is a nice improvement from the 8.3:1 it was standard.

I send the cam in today to have it re-profiled for a longer duration.

Here's some pics of the cylinder head.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 4:17 am 
JNC Fanatic
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:40 am
Posts: 902
Location: Villeneuve, Qld, Australia
A little advice from a Mazda piston man!! I would recommend welding the two casting ports in the top of the cylinder head - these are those two round cylinder shapes in line with the second and forth cam journals. They have a bad habit of leaking water and with a little extra compression might bring it on sooner.

Easy job for your reco shop, just need a solid weld on the top. I can take a photo of one I'm doing at the moment if your like. Just make sure it's not too high otherwise it might hit the camshaft.

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Too many Mazda's in the collection. 4 Mitsubishi's, 6 Toyota's and now 3 Datsun's as well.
Putting together a Mazda/Japanese motor museum. New bigger venue for the museum has been bought, watch this space!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:29 am 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
Thanks, I have heard those plugs can have a problem with leaking. I will have look at maybe welding them as a precaution.

I started assembling the car this weekend.

Here's some pics.






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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:29 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:00 pm
Posts: 32
Location: Australia
That's a great job you are doing there.

One thing that concerns me is that radically machined flywheel. I few mates of mine used machined cast iron flywheels and with reasonably heavy use a few suffered stress cracks and one exploded and basically cut the car in half.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR90pDzWu2A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YYDGBK2Snc

For anything used in competition it's much safer to use a proper steel flywheel.

I hope you don't take this as criticism, it's just from experience I'd hate to see your lovely Capella ruined.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:39 pm 
Mild Cam
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 1677
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
This build is progressing amazingly fast! Good work!

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1980 Toyota Celica
1984 Porsche 911
1988 Mazda RX-7
Ex-JNCs: 1980 Datsun 510, 1979 Mazda RX-7, 1986 Mazda RX-7, 1992 Mazda Miata
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 2:56 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 7:11 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Pearland Tx.
That engine bay is gorgeous. Immaculate.

:tu:


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 Post subject: nice project
PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 5:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:01 am
Posts: 45
Location: South Africa
Hi BlueRocket, (ek gaan dit engles hou vir die res van ons lesers)

Very nice build, makes me proud to be a mazda fan.

I must admit, at first I thought that you must've gone the rotary route, but damn, this build is so nice, I'm glad you stuck to the original idea. I just makes a person apreciate the car more.

I see you got Wellington registration, are you from there?

Keep up the good work.

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1998 mazda 323 200e, 2.0l 8V
1979 mazda 323 glc, 13B Bridge


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:51 am 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
Thanks.

I would still really like a rotary, but the only rotarys available these days in SA are the 13B turbo. And to do that mod plus management can become pretty expensive! Plus i have to race in a different class with very few entrants.

I bought the car in Wellington. I live in the northern subburbs of Cape Town.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:01 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:49 am
Posts: 7
Location: RSA
BlueRocket wrote:
I would still really like a rotary

:roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:01 am
Posts: 45
Location: South Africa
Blue Rocket,

Yes the only rotary engines that are for sale in SA are the 13b Turbo engine. I use a 13B Turbo engine, but the turbo is removed in favor of a 51mm IDA carb. Unfortunately, these import engines needs to be refreshed. Yes, it will start without the engine being refreeshed, but it won't last very long. When the engine builder opened the engine, one of the apex seals were broken and the the rotors were rusted.

Regards

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1998 mazda 323 200e, 2.0l 8V
1979 mazda 323 glc, 13B Bridge


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:15 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
So this weekend i finished assembling the engine.

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I had aluminium plate lasercut and welded it to the old inlet manifold after i machined off the original flange. This is to fit the Weber carburettor. I think it turned out quite well

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:50 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:34 am
Posts: 29
Location: South Africa
With everything assembled, we checked for oil pressure before putting the plugs in and connecting the ignition wires. The oil pressure picked up nicely when turning over the engine.

We connected the ignition, and with the first turn, not even a full revolution the engine fired up.

The Carburettor still needs to be jetted correctly, and i have just fitted the old exhaust to start the car, so there is a terrible leak at the downpipe flange.

Overall the engine sounds really good for a first start without any fine tuning.

Only problem is a oil leak somewhere on the sump gasket. Hopefully i can sort this out without to much of a hassle...

Here's a video clip:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:23 pm 

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:49 am
Posts: 7
Location: RSA
That intake turned out really well. :)

Hope you can sort that oil leak without too much trouble. :oops:

Engine sounds really good except for that leaking exhaust flange. :lol:
Glad it started up without too much hassle.

PS: Please don't drive off with my oil pressure gauge still tied to the garage ceiling. :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 3:29 am 

Joined: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:49 am
Posts: 7
Location: RSA
Here's a few pictures of the car in action for you...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:53 am 
JNC Enthusiast

Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:26 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Melbourne, Australia
hmmmm

I think you need a bit of suspension tuning.
I like that last photo with the tyre and rim seperating!

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