Oh, also...Considered Nistune if you want to go the programmable ecu route? I believe the type 1 board can be retrofitted to the FJ20ET ecu. Not a bad way to go, you don't have control for add ons like Traction Control or Boost controllers but you have close to the same tuning freedom as a full standalone aftermarket ecu without the compatibility and loom hassles.

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Well the squid named terror ran flawlessly at Taupo racetrack on Tuesday - until early afternoon when alternator #2 decided to go the way of the first one by blowing its voltage regulator as well

the only way for me to keep the charge under 15V is to run with the headlights and accessories switched on, otherwise it continues increasing with revs (we've seen it go as high as 19V at 3500rpm and still climbing). Managed to drive it safely home and will get it checked out by a reputable sparky, but it would seem the charging system is cursed in some manner.

On the flip side, I now know what aspects of the car require immediate improvement if I'm to chase 300ps... namely the brakes (pads mostly) and suspension, particularly in the rear. All in all, still a pretty successful day. The car was a bit of a handful I must admit, and almost tried to kill me on a couple of occasions when it came on boost whilst trying to navigate the corners (including one series of NASTY tank-slaps that almost saw me colliding side-on with a marshal post), but the FJ20 ran most reliably and sounded awesome

man, those guys who punted them around in the '80s - Fury, Seton et al - they be CRAZY.

check out that bodyroll, hah



and is my rear dish a bit much?

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how do i look up the clip? 'looks good bro'

cheers man

the clip is here - but the audio is desynced. squid is in maybe 20 seconds' worth of scattered footage.

in one short scene you'll see it pulling off the safety area after I ran out of brakes at the end of pit straight. as mentioned earlier, those will need to be sorted ASAP

I've also picked up a harsh wobble in the steering at 80km/h after the unscheduled grass trek that saw me sliding sideways off the track and almost into a marshal post, hopefully it's just a wheel weight missing and nothing more serious than that. There's no wobble/vibration at any other speed and the car still tracks perfectly.

Gonna drop in to the sparky during lunchtime tomorrow and get the electrickery checked out.

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LOL plenty of tank slappers there haha..

id say your vibration is wheel balance related for sure not much else causes that kind of thing other than maybe a slightly bent rim??. if all the weights are still there. it can still be balance..

i love Taupo circuit its a great place to race iv raced open wheelers an my corolla around there alot..

did you have the full track?

Yup we had the full track (A1GP layout) with fast turn 9 and slow turn 12. a friend of mine finally ripped the in-car footage he took during one of the morning stints where he rode shotgun, the lack of brakes meant I was slowing down a lot sooner than I'm used to in my track car!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pWGYGB2AvM

at the very end of the clip you can hear me say "It's running a bit hot"... the radiator top sensor finally carked it

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Looks like fun Orion!

Sorry we couldn't catch up while I'm in Auckland. Off to the Airport and back to the States in a few hours.

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83' DR30

oh you were over. man you should of came to wellyhood seen the project here

I spent most of the time down South. Earthquakes are the new bungy jumps!

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83' DR30

aw man, yeah that quake was serious business, and it was pretty lucky that no one got killed. I'm heading stateside soon... may not get a chance to venture anywhere near VA, but if you're ever back this way the door is always open for a meetup

Anyway, this week after much procrastination I finally completed the last piece of the puzzle. Some may even refer to it as the, uh, missing link.



Pun intended - cruddy picture but you get the idea! It's a Link G4 Storm, made in NZ so after-sales support will be a breeze. I pondered buying a Haltech, Megasquirt or even an EMS Stinger for a while, but in the end decided that pricing aside I may as well stick with a reputable local brand; two of my other cars run the early Link G1 hardware, and their staff have always been a pleasure to deal with. Plus as an added bonus the Storm is one of the few ECUs out there which actually interfaces directly with the oddball FJ20 optical trigger, the other being Haltech (that I know of).

So, to recap:

Take one FJ20ET. (Here's one Nissan prepared earlier)



Add one Garrett GT3071R twin-scroll turbo, one Tial 44mm wastegate and 0.8bar spring, one Bosch Motorsport fuel pump... this shot may look familiar



and a set of Denso 830cc injectors, freshly cleaned and flowtested.



Combine all ingredients in engine bay, and set rear wheels to "bake" with the help of the aforementioned Link



I'm not the sort of person who keeps to deadlines, but would like to have this setup all installed, tuned and running before the middle of next year. Overly ambitious? I hope not!

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heheh... Thanks, I think

Hasn't been umch activity on the Skylines recently, although I did trek down south to pick up a replacement DR30 rear subframe and arms, which should hopefully correct the strange camber/toe problem in the rear of squid. The guy also had some facelift smoked HR30 tail lights which I picked up "just in case". As you can see from the photo they have darker background colouring compared to the standard DR30 ones.

you can see them appear from time to time being advertised as DR30 ones (with hefty price premium attached)

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^so you are the guest blogger on michael's site?

Co-admin.

Anyway, thanks to Michael I managed to replace the dying fuel pump in the coupe with one from a L20ET. According to a few Japanese sites on the e-netz this pump doesn't flow as much as the standard FJ20ET one, but it will do for now (and runs a damn sight smoother and quieter than the fucked one). incidentally the part number of the L20ET pump is 17010-01L50 which doesn't come up in FAST. Neither does the FJ20ET pump (17010-R2250) however i'm sure they cross reference with the ones that are in the system. Jim Wright Nissan quoted me $700+GST incl shipping from Japan for a brand new genuine R2250 so if I ever need to go down that route I still can.

anyway... the new pump has fixed a lot of the smoothness and drivability issues, however the car still has a slight hesitation when accelerating after gearchanges. I guess the next step will be to obtain and change the O2, radiator temp, ECU coolant temp, and oil pressure sensors, and the fuel filter again just to be sure. Standard old cars are FUN! (not)

Ran 12V through the old pump and it made a horrific thin, reedy sucking sound. Go figure

pic related:



I mustn't get too hung up with the coupe though, as squid is about to undergo a bit of heart surgery after the new year. Managed to track down and buy a replacement rear subframe and A-arms to replace the damaged one, so once I've swapped that in it'll be time to install the Link, turbo and other goodies...

meanwhile, I got it one of these for Xmas. Should fill the hole in the centre console quite nicely.

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He does more posting than me, really. Damned downbuzz cut in hours and money.

Glad the pump was whisper quiet. No more mrrooooorooroo for you.

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i have a dr30 sedan body non turbo prefacelift if you need more bits its in NZ so sing out if you need anything sedan specific

Cool, thanks for the offer, I'm sure I will think of something eventually. Whereabouts in NZ is the car located?

I can't seem to fix the hesitation on acceleration in the coupe, it's actually gotten worse after a bit of driving with the replacement pump fitted

Running out of ideas as to what could be causing it... and to say it's getting annoying would be a giant understatement. it's possible that one of the numerous valves on the intake has seized, but without spares I'm not going to find out in any great hurry.

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Crack open that AFM give it a clean .. Check for dry joints too

iv not read all your posts but you need to start with the most basic things first

plugs, leads as Stagefumer says AFM mine had issues caused a bad misfire as if a lead was busted

look at hoses, wire plugs airfilter etc etc its likely something really simple

maybe after the above also try changing computers between your cars

the sedan is in the tron..

there was a few things that i talked to him last night about on msn that could be causing it..

1. EGR valve sticking
2. FPR is failing, Boost/vacume changes causing indiffrent Fuel pressure levels.
3. AFM slider is junked up, As noted before. This happend a few times on mine, or even worse one of the tracks has a dry joint

missed out on some FJ20 bits for $250, was livid as I'd originally offered the guy $250 when he first tried hocking off the parts a few months ago (but he kept saying "nah nah someone will give me $400")

would have been useful for diagnosing the coupe's hesitation problem, as there was a complete intake manifold, turbo, AFM and injectors amongst that lot. Oh well, will keep looking.

Anyway due to not having much free time lately my mechanic has taken over the task of replacing the rear subframe in squid, and I took off the stuffed alternator and dropped it in to the sparky this morning. I haven't had much joy with the Hitachi units, so will get a Bosch or Denso one priced up instead.

finally, decided to free up some space on my iPod by dumping a few videos onto youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX2jdUzKxkQ - squid idling/a few blips of the throttle (sound came out distorted, ugh)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14ziqIwWi_A - 80-120 squirt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGT3aaw2M2A - bonus video of my RX-7 idling

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