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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:20 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Latest Updates:

Major electrical issues are now addressed and we do not seem to have any more problems at this time. Few small tweaks electrically to get the car perfect are the last bits on the electrical side.

Added Racing Beat 465 Holley Carb/Intake set up that is absolutely marvelous. Fully rebuilt and running the way it should be with oil metering into the carburator like Mazda had originally designed it to be.

Installation of thicker sway-bar was not done correctlly, so reverting back to stocker to get the car tracking correctly again. Apparently the thicker sway-bar was cut for fitting, so my technician says to kick this one to the curb for now.


Items I would like opinion on:

Function & Form Coil Over 2's- Anyone have any experience with these fully adjustable Coil Overs on an RX2. They are specifically built for the RX2, but would like some feedback from anyone who has them installed. I specifically like the ride-height adjustability, as well as the dampening settings for ride preference, but would like some real-life feedback before seriously considering this purchase.

On E-bay, there is a company that makes a short-throw shifter for the 5 speed RX7 transmission, of which I have in my car. Anyone that is familiar with this shifter, please supply feedback if you like it, and why.

Currently reviewing suppliers for Urethane or rubber replacement bushings for the Mazda RX2, as well as weatherstripping/trunk/window rubber, and because of recommendations on this forum, have found a vendor in Australia called Scotts Old Auto Rubber. They sell a Supa Kit for the Mazda RX2, and was wondering if anyone has any familiarity with this company and these kits. Seems to be all inclusive for the windows, doors, trunk and engine bay. Just would need to pick and choose the suspension bushings that I need. Any feedback greatly appreciated.


Thanks for all the help, and again, I can't wait to supply everyone pictures of the finished product. I would have already, but I am still not in posession of it yet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:30 am
Posts: 32
Location: New Zealand
Hi

That is a very nice 2 coupe your have got there, love the wheels, very different to the normal.
Glad to see you found your electrical problem, electrics can be such a pain when they play up.
I have used a scott's rubber kit in my car, and have found it to be of a very high quality, I'm sure you wont find any better else where.
I have a coilover set up in my rx2, and even though it is as yet untested, I think you will find that any modern custom coilover suspension will be much better than trying to use the standard suspension with lowered springs.
I have done a build up thread on my suspension here http://www.kiwirotary.com/phpbb3/viewto ... ?f=3&t=350
if that is any help.

Good luck with your rx2, she does look to be a stunner of a coupe.

Regan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:21 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Thanks for the link to your build. You have gone to a level on your 4 door that would take me years to achieve.

The suspension bushings that you showed pictures of during your build, what brand were they, and where did you buy them from, if you don't mind me asking?

Keep it going, as she is so close!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:30 am
Posts: 32
Location: New Zealand
definitely don't mind you asking.

The bushes are superpro http://www.tein.com/products/superpro.html I used them over nolathane http://www.nolathane.com.au/ purely because of the colour, I didn't want to see a heap of red bushes under the car.
Both products are very much the same.

I'll get mine finished soon, just so busy at work for the last 18 months, and work comes before play, sometimes


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:08 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Tried looking at "TEIN" for the Superpro bushings, but I am not seeing anything for an RX2. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place, but the only thing they are listing are kits for the RX7 or newer.

Let me know if I am looking in the wrong place, as I am like you, and really don't want Red bushings under the car. Would prefer to have black like your kit was.

Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 3:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:30 am
Posts: 32
Location: New Zealand
Part numbers for superpro can be found here


http://www.globalpartssource.com/pdf/SU ... -04%20.pdf

about page 60.

you should be able to order these through Tein USA.
They are a very dark purple not black, but still a lot better than red.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:00 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
For those following, we are finally nearing the end!

Hired a true aficionado to finish this car in it's last steps of wiring repair and mechanicals. He has been absolutely meticulous about finding the root causes of the electrical issues we have been fighting with the car and I can't thank him enough for his diligence. He has correctly repaired or re-wired to factory specifications all of the nuances contributing to the electrical issues, and now states that everything is running as it should be. He is dividing wiring properly and utilizing looms in the installation to ensure functionality, as well as a clean-crisp appearance.

He uncovered an issue with the installed custom front swaybar, so it is being replaced with a brand new Addco front swaybar set up.

The recently installed Racing Beat Holley 460 setup is absolutely phenomenal accoring to him, and everything is working as it should be. Though it has the ability to mix oil into the carburator via the oil metering pump, my motor was not built with one, therefore I will have to mix oil with my fuel during every fill up. I have heard this was quite common for people to do, but my previous motor had the metering pump so I have never had to do this. Any comments or recommendation on this process would be greatly appreciated, as I want to do this right! (Is there a special oil that everyone recommends for the mixing?)

Though the brake system, brake lines and brakes have all been updated and fresh, he still found an issue in one of the lines that caused him some concern, so he was having a new line built to ensure there was no question about safety on this 37, soon to be 38 year old car.

This car has been away from me and in the works for almost a year, so I am looking forward to getting it back in my posession so that I can start work on the interior, weatherstripping, suspension bushing upgrades (possible function & form adjustable coil-over setup- if I can ever afford that) and slowly tackle the minor body work needed on door-dings etc....

Again, I have promised to have pictures once it is in my posession again, and as everyone has seen, there have been months of delays in being able to deliver on that promise. The goal is to have it back by New Years, or close to that.

Thanks everyone!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:46 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:28 pm
Posts: 142
Location: Tampa FL
What engine setup did you use?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:31 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Adelaide
I used to pre mix fuel in a 13B Rx4, however it was years ago. I cant remember specific oil/fuel ratio. I used to dilute the oil in some fuel first in a metal can, pop than in the tank then fill up at the pump. I did find later when a new motor went in i had a lot of oil sediment in the tank. New motor with metering pump blew a bit of smoke that day!
Perhaps my mechanic had me mixing the wrong oil though?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 2:34 am
Posts: 10
Location: australia
Iknow some of the additives they use in some brands of premium will cause the oil to separate in the tank
my mate found that out the hard way on his bike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:03 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Hello RX-2Fan,

I stayed the course that I had previously with a street ported and blueprinted 12A Motor. A 460 Holley setup from Racing Beat was added this go-around, that will be a substantial improvement from what I had previously. I carried over my Racing Beat header and free flow exhaust that I had before, as everything from that was in very good shape.

The motor builder said I should get roughly 220 RWHP from it with his porting techniques, and with the newly added 460 Holley, this motor should be very strong and stay reliable, which is most important. I actually intend to drive it back-and-forth to work, in good weather of course, as I feel the car needs to live a little, and not sit in a garage all of it's life.


Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:12 pm 

Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:58 pm
Posts: 22
You have a very clean RX-2!

Nice resto work and glad your electrical issues are being sorted.

I have a stock port 12A with an oil metering pump hooked up. I premix with ONLY TC-W3 NMMA approved two-stroke oil. I use a ratio of half a fluid ounce per gallon of gas (0.5oz:1gal). But since you say yours does not have an OMP then some recommend 1oz./1gal.

So far I have put over 10,000 miles and have had no issues yet!

There are other special premix oils that other rotary guys use like Idemitsu or Royal Purple. I just buy Wal-Mart brand cheap TC-W3 grade. It has a blue tint to it.

Hope this helps!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:43 am
Posts: 200
Location: Queensland Australia
I use castrol R30 oil! works well and smells really nice when exhausted!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:17 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Update:

Car was nearly finished, when we uncovered that the bearing inside the chasis brace that holds the two piece driveline between transmission and rear end was absolutely grenaded due to age. The rubber surrounding the bearing was completely dried up and falling out, leaving the driveline most likely flopping with the bearing inside the brace. Well, trying to find this exact bearing proved nearly impossible in the states, so we resorted to option #2, a custom built, 1 piece drive shaft, that came out absolutely perfect. Compression and droop of the rear suspension has measured out optimally so that we don't have any concerns about the driveline hitting the tunnel or bottoming out.

Just a few final effort fixes to some minute problems, and she is supposed to hit the road within 1.5 weeks. My technician is being absolutely meticulous about doing things right on this car, and again states that he will not release it until it is safe, sound, and the way it is supposed to be.

I'll share when I know more, and obviously get pictures out when I have her in my posession.

See ya!


Last edited by Apple Guy on Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:09 pm 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Well, the car has finally been road-tested with all of the changes and upgrades, and the words directly from my technician- "THIS THING RIPS".

He says it has excellent power, and the front-end is tracking well now that the custom swaybar is mounted with correct bushings and brackets. No rubbing or bumping of the custom-built one piece drive-line, and the brakes are solid and true.

Arrangements have been made to pick it up on Saturday the 26th, so it will finally be back home that same day, ready to start it's second life.

Next phase will be the weather stripping, and window seals to minimize rattles and road noise inside the car, then to carpeting and interior upgrades.

Does anyone know of a carpet supplier that still makes kits for these cars in the United States, as the vendors that I have found say they do not ship to the US! If not, I may just have to work with an upholstery shop to see what can be done.

Can't wait to share with all of those following this project!


Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:50 am 
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 11:37 am
Posts: 28
Location: Seattle
Love the car Apple Guy. Hopefully you received your car back by now and can finally enjoy driving it. About your interior; Check these guys out if you can't find a factory replacement kit: http://www.durham-upholstery.com/

/JJ


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx2- Return from the Dead Project
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:58 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
All,
Car is finally back, and I have been working diligently to figure out it's final problem. Can't seem to lick it, so asking for anyone's help on this one:

Two coils on fender wall, with only one firing. I will refer to the coil toward the front of the car as the leading coil, and second coil closest to the steering wheel, the trailing coil. The trailing coil is the one that is not firing. Here is how everything is wired:

Hot wire coming from positive battery cable via a couple of grounded relays, comes up and is wired to the positive terminal on the trailing coil. From the trailing coil, there is a bridge wire from the positive terminal of the trailing coil to the positive terminal of the leading coil. Next, the leading pickup (ignitor) from the distributor is wired to the positive terminal of leading coil (black wire from ignitor) and the negative terminal of the leading coil (yellow/green wire). The trailing pickup (ignitor) from the distributor is wired to the positive terminal of trailing coil (black wire from ignitor) and the negative terminal of the trailing coil (yellow/green wire). Finally, there is a tachometer wire (yellow/green or yellow/blue) connected to the negative terminal on the trailing coil.

Here is what is happenning:
Only the leading coil is firing to the distributor and to the spark plugs. The leading coil is connected to the leading position on the distributor. Being as that the leading pickup (ignitor) is wired to the leading coil, only the leading spark plugs on the front and rear rotor are getting a spark. I varified all of this utilizing a timing light.

Here is what I have tried, always with the use of the timing light:
-Assumed I had a bad trailing coil, so purchased a second MSD Blaster 2 coil, and installed in the exact manner that previous coil was installed, in the trailing position. Absolutely no change!!!!
-Decided to take previously assumed bad coil from trailing position and installed in leading coil position, and now that assumed bad coil fires just fine.
-Pulled coil wires out of leading and trailing coils, and flip flopped their position for each coil. Now trailing spark plugs fire, and leading spark plugs do not, but still firing off of leading ignitor. Hoping this proves that all distributor wires will carry current correctly.
-Replaced coil wires back to their correct positions, then disconnected the ignitor wires from each coil, and flip-flopped their position on the coils. Leading coil is still the only coil firing, but now leading spark plugs are firing off of the trailing pickup (ignitor). I'm hoping this proves that both pickups (ignitors) are working correctly, providing a signal as they are supposed to.
-Disconnected tachometer wire from negative terminal on trailing coil. Nothing happenned other than the tachometer stopped working.
-Tried connecting tachometer wire to negative terminal on leading coil, and upon touching negative terminal on leading coil, engine tries to die. Maybe someone could explain this one to me, as to why this is happenning. I have to assume it is interrupting the signal from the leading pickup (ignitor) from the distributor.

At this point, I feel that I have proven all spark plug wires are good and in proper working condition. All coil wires from coils to distributor are good and in proper working condition. Also, I feel that I have proven both pickups (ignitors) are working properly, but only when connected to the leading coil.

What else could be wrong? I am not a wiring expert here, but I feel like I have exhausted all options within my capacity. Is the wiring in it's present state incorrect?

Please advise any ideas or thoughts you may have regarding this issue.

Thanks again, as it is so close to being road worthy!


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx2- Return from the Dead Project-Updated Pic
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 11:47 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Sorry it took awhile, but here are the latest pictures of the car. And yes, at some point, when I find the right set, I will be getting rid of the hideous side-view mirrors. Really looking for a nice set of chrome viewers for the car, as I want to keep it consistent. Enjoy!!!!!!

Still looking for help regarding the coil issue I listed in my last post directly before these pictures. Any ideas are much appreciated!


ImageImageImageImageImage


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx2- Return from the Dead Project-Updated Pic
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 10:30 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:21 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Richland, WA
Still looking for ideas regarding why the second coil won't fire. Have tried other things, but still no positive result.

Anything appreciated.


Thanks,


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx2- Return from the Dead Project-Updated Pic
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 7:10 pm
Posts: 68
Location: So-Cal
What a very nice RX2 you have there! What suspension upgrades did you end up going with? Form and Function coil overs? Urethane Bushings?

Keep up the great work! :tu:

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