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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:19 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 231
Location: UK.
Norcal510 wrote:
Congrats on finally getting your car. Cant wait for more pictures.

Check these guys out. They have a lot of information & even digital copies of the service manual.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=51

:tu:


Thanks for the link. I need to sort the brakes and timing chain rattle before the maiden drive.

I thought it was the master cylinder but upon closer inspection 1 cylinder is empty of fluid which is for the rear brakes so I will check the rear cylinders out for leaks.

Engine has the usual timing chain rattle so a quick inspection will let me know if the adjuster has seized through long storage.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 2:05 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
Just discovered it has a "wide wing" extended oil pan!!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 2:46 pm 
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Where's the petrol lid??


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:09 pm 
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DaveW wrote:
Just discovered it has a "wide wing" extended oil pan!!

That's stock for a KGC10 mate. 4.6L capacity when you do an oil change :)

datsunfreak wrote:
Where's the petrol lid??


Here: http://www.restored.jp/gc10-fuellid.htm

:lol:

DaveW wrote:
I thought it was the master cylinder but upon closer inspection 1 cylinder is empty of fluid which is for the rear brakes so I will check the rear cylinders out for leaks.

IIRC the rear brake cylinders aren't "quite" the same as other Nissan, so you might be better off getting them rebuilt than searching for a compatible replacement if needed.

Not 100% sure, but the nissan part number for the rear cylinders is 44100-22000 I think

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


Last edited by kev on Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Location: London, England, UK.
DaveW wrote:
Just discovered it has a "wide wing" extended oil pan!!


That's the stock oil pan for the L20 in the KGC10, Dave.

The carbs are Mikuni-Solex N40PHH ( probably type 41/42 or 89/90 ). Lots of data out there if you search using the 'N40PHH' type name.

There's nothing "usual" about timing chain rattle. If its flapping about that much, there's a problem. I think you should take the front cover off and investigate further before something fails. It could be due to a stretched chain, a failing - or partially stuck - tensioner, worn chain guides, or an overskimmed cylinder head ( or any combination of the above ). Catch it quick before that chain jumps and you whack some valves.....


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:18 pm 
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Location: London, England, UK.
And that throttle return spring setup needs to meet Mister Dusty Binns....


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:14 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
datsunfreak wrote:
Where's the petrol lid??


I unbolted the petrol lid to get some petrol in. When the car arrived it was -10c and the lock was frozen!!!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:18 am 

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HS30-H wrote:
And that throttle return spring setup needs to meet Mister Dusty Binns....


1 of a 1000 jobs Alan LOL!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:59 am 
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What's that box with the checker-pattern to the left of the rad?

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:52 am 

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kev wrote:
What's that box with the checker-pattern to the left of the rad?


Hiya Kev

it appears to be part of the electronic ignition.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:21 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
First few pictures of the strip down.

I pulled out the rear seat base, the owner had removed the back upper seat (maybe lost the original as the upper that came with the car is blue). The horrible red cloth panel is now in the bin!!

Image

Looks pretty clean and dry here. The owner had placed small "moisture absorber" bags everywhere.
Image

Nice and dry :D
Image

Looks like the owner had a role cage fitted at some time, that explains the rear seat panel.
Image

Now into the boot area. Still dry, signs of some oxidisation on the floor but very good so far.
Image

N/S/R Sill pocket looks a little ropey, but still bone dry. You can make out where the owner modded the rear arches for the wide wheels he had fitted at some stage.
Image

O/S/R sill pocket, again bone dry and in good order.
Image

Boot floor and back panel in fairly good repair considering the age.
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:35 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
Posts: 231
Location: UK.
Door checks and seams all look pretty good.
Image

Front pillars, again good :D
Image

O/S/F upper inner wing panel looks ropey, been painted by hand which doesnt help much. More details on this soon.
Image

Passenger side panel look good.
Image

Rear arches modded, these will be re cut for new oversize arches.
Image

Ahaaah! found something. The lower N/S/R sill is starting to rot out. Its had a repair before. Again, this will be cust out and refreshed.
Image

Worked my way along the complete sills on both sides, all solid. Then found a small hole on the O/S/F lower floor. Nothing too much to worry over.
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:14 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Mate that's remarkably solid and unmolested.

Those triangular box sections at the upper corners of the engine bay tend to rot from the inside out, since water from the cowl drains through them (and dumps behind the splash panel in the wheel wells). But those look pretty good, normally they go at the flanges first.

Boot floor looks nice and solid also!

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:56 pm 
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Looking great. Interior shots?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:45 am 

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kev wrote:
Mate that's remarkably solid and unmolested.

Those triangular box sections at the upper corners of the engine bay tend to rot from the inside out, since water from the cowl drains through them (and dumps behind the splash panel in the wheel wells). But those look pretty good, normally they go at the flanges first.

Boot floor looks nice and solid also!


Ive checked inside the upper wings also Kev, bone dry and rot free :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:02 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
some other shots

Headlamp bezels and buckets in A1 order :D
Image

Unfortunatley the rear drivers side bumper got pushed into the body during its journey. Good news is the panel has no filler in there!!!
Image

The door mirrors are to be removed and JDM wing mirrors remounted onto the front wings.
Image

Front floor pan's on both sides are rust free.
Image

Upper inner wings (usual water traps) again, rust free!
Image


Image

Lower rear pockets, minor rust but nothing too serious.
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:14 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
a few more.

Nice brace of carbs :lol:
Image

rear brake cylinder reservoir is empty, quick inspection under the back shows the passenger side cylinder is leaking.
Image

Not too sure what make the inlet manifold is??
Image

E30 Cylinder Head. Unsure if there has been any mods.
Image

The "original" L20 engine is now back in the car. The owner removed the L3.1 he had built before he sold the car.
Image

Some signs of leaking master cylinder, though now dry so perhaps repaired?
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:39 am 

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 9:04 am
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Location: Grass valley , CA
When are we going to see some overall car shots??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:42 am 
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Location: London, England, UK.
DaveW wrote:
Not too sure what make the inlet manifold is??
Image


That's a Sanyo Kiki inlet manifold. In fact, the manifold, carbs, linkages and the triple round air filters are a complete Sanyo Sports Kit from the early to mid Seventies period.

Sanyo Kiki became more well known for using the 'SK' brand a little later....

The solid teflon bushing in the above photo has popped out of its housing on the upright. It should be secured with an 'E' clip ( which might have popped off? ) and the linkage will not be working as well as it should. Just slide it back in and see if you can stop it from coming out again. You might notice an improvement in carb balance once that's sorted.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:25 am 

Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:27 am
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Location: UK.
HS30-H wrote:
DaveW wrote:
Not too sure what make the inlet manifold is??
Image


That's a Sanyo Kiki inlet manifold. In fact, the manifold, carbs, linkages and the triple round air filters are a complete Sanyo Sports Kit from the early to mid Seventies period.

Sanyo Kiki became more well known for using the 'SK' brand a little later....

The solid teflon bushing in the above photo has popped out of its housing on the upright. It should be secured with an 'E' clip ( which might have popped off? ) and the linkage will not be working as well as it should. Just slide it back in and see if you can stop it from coming out again. You might notice an improvement in carb balance once that's sorted.


Hiya Alan,

many thanks for the info.

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